Thread Number: 85928  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Duet spider failure?
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Post# 1104830   1/17/2021 at 10:08 (1,188 days old) by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        

As some of you know, I have a Whirlpool Duet WFW9750 that is nearing 11 years old in the next few days. Within the past 4 or 5 washes, I have noticed that the machine makes a 'rattle' when spinning at moderate RPM, however does not occur continually. So, it does not appear to be the bearings since it does not occur with speed, but more the spider rubbing and being close to failure. Not sure what to expect at this point, but will keep you all updated.




Post# 1104833 , Reply# 1   1/17/2021 at 10:34 (1,188 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

look for "runout"(wobble)of the basket while turning manually-if more than ~1/16,forcefully try to wobble the basket to check for broken or "soft"spider there will be a little normal bearing play.My Duet will be turning 10 shortly...
the rattle is probably something in the suspension.


Post# 1104840 , Reply# 2   1/17/2021 at 11:16 (1,188 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

A broken spider is usually very distinctive.



As stated above, take a look at your drum.

The spider has 4 or 3 arms, spaced either 120° evenly apart or 2 on either side about 60° apart to each other 120° between the pairs.

If you grip the basket at the front rim, pull towards you.
Try at 2 different positions at least.

If the drum moves towards you as a whole it should be fine.

If you can basically tilt the drum within the tub, "bending" it, the spider is broken.




If it is only at a medium speed it is less likely it is the spider.

That would get louder as it gets faster, usually.



I more so think either a damper is going or something got loose, like a wire or a hose.

Broken dampers make less of a problem at high speeds.
At very high speeds the vibrations created become very high force but really short travel.
Those high forces are far beyond the dampers capabilities and the drum becomes basically free floating.

If a damper goes the damping characteristics change.
At very high speeds the machine might sound different but not vibrate more.
At lower speeds however the drum can travel more freely and more so unevenly.
Thus vibrations get more excessive.

Especially in medium speeds that becomes apparent.
At lower speeds the out of balance detection still runs and would cancel spins with to large drum travel.

At medium speed however spins cleared by OOB detection can now still create higher vibrations.





At worst just wait it out.

If it is a damper next thing you'll recognise is longer cycle times due to longer balanceing routines.

Then some harder to balance loads will get spun at lower speeds more often.

Those will get more and more of a Problem.

Next even easy to balance loads will get spun less and less reliably.
Until the point the drum starts to sag and you see marks appearing on the door glass.





Replacing the dampers isn't terribly complicated nor expensive.

Best is to replace all dampers (should be 3) at once.
When one gets weak, the others Cary the load and wear out rather quickly.
If you replace one the other will go out soon after, taking the other with it again.
So you end up in a continuous cycle of replacing dampers.



Lay machine on its side.

Bottom should be accessible.

Dampers should just be held in with plastic pegs.
These have wings on one side that you have to compress with a pair of pliers and then slide out.
Can be a bit tricky.

A tip:
If you can get these plastic pins cheap as well just change them over as well with new ones.
Every now and then these get deformed over time.
They don't fit snugly anymore and can cause perfectly good dampers to rattle and fail prematurely (hammer on nail effect).
Should be a cheap part.

Mount new dampers, make sure the pins are all the way in.

Upright machine again.
Check drum that it looks in its correct place.
It can happen that a spring at the top of the machine gets unhooked.
Then you'd just unscrew the lid and hook it back in.
Doesn't happen all that often though.


Post# 1104842 , Reply# 3   1/17/2021 at 11:35 (1,188 days old) by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
I agree

It is odd.
I have checked for vibrating parts internally and externally. Nothing.
I ran the diagnostic cycle, and the noise occurred during the spin test with nothing in the machine, and not a bit of vibration. The tub has VERY mild play, and basket and suspension play is like it was when new. This certainly isn't a suspension noise.
I did clean out the pump to see if there was any noticeable debris. After about 2 years, only a bit of buildup was present likely due to FS and some liquids. No odor at all. One paperclip, a woodchip, and a fragment of a dog toy. Otherwise, just normal sediment.


Post# 1105011 , Reply# 4   1/18/2021 at 21:20 (1,186 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
bad math...

should have stated my "Duet"is about to turn 20yrs not 10 :) It's a KM HE3t,110 42922 200.

Post# 1105090 , Reply# 5   1/19/2021 at 11:31 (1,186 days old) by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
Sorry

I thought I posted this earlier. 20 years for that platform is GREAT! However, we probably do 8 loads per week minimum.
I also checked all the dampers, and they are fine. When I move the tub around, there is no noise, however if I spin the tub, it will make the noise very faintly and quickly stop. I also illuminated the bottom of the tub in the back to look for scratches or large debris. Nothing.


Post# 1105146 , Reply# 6   1/19/2021 at 18:42 (1,185 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
take off the belt

see what happens when the belt is taken off-sometimes the belts will make some odd noises.

Post# 1105160 , Reply# 7   1/19/2021 at 21:46 (1,185 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
My Maytag Neptune MAH 7500 washer broke its spider after just two years. I suspect it was defective from the get-go. Luckily I had the extended (seven year, I think) warranty and it got replaced free of charge. No problems since then, it was over 15 years ago.


Post# 1105192 , Reply# 8   1/20/2021 at 08:52 (1,185 days old) by Seeitrun2006 (Commerce, GA)        
Rattle

I had the same problem with our duet. The rattle I had came from a quarter in the bottom of the door seal. Pulled the seal lip back, removed the money and It quit rattling. It always started when the machine was ramping up to spin. It was 11 years old but started to have control board issues got rid of it in 2018. Too expensive to fix. Hope this helps!!!

Post# 1105283 , Reply# 9   1/20/2021 at 18:05 (1,184 days old) by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
Money or coins

I thought it sounded something like that as well. But the boot is completely free of anything. I wondered if something small was either below the drum in the rear end of the sump, or stuck at the rear of the drum itself and making noise as it sped up. However, any debris would have sheared down to nothing by now with the number of drum rotations except for maybe a tiny bit of metal, and it would have been washed loose with all the fills and drains it has done since it started.
It sucks since we are trying to move soon, and I can't locate a new LG built Kenmore FL washer with heater to save my life.


Post# 1105285 , Reply# 10   1/20/2021 at 18:08 (1,184 days old) by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
Sound

To better describe the noise, it is a bit of a 'knock'.

Post# 1105292 , Reply# 11   1/20/2021 at 18:39 (1,184 days old) by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
Video example

So I will post a link to a video, and give time frames where the noise is identical but slightly quieter.
0:30 - 0:55
1:17 - 1:32





Post# 1105748 , Reply# 12   1/24/2021 at 18:09 (1,180 days old) by W6984 (Binghamton,NY)        
Bearings

Our ASKO is making the same noise. Was advised to run it into the ground?

Post# 1106551 , Reply# 13   2/2/2021 at 18:58 (1,171 days old) by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
Verdict is.....

Bearings.

I hate to see it leave the laundry room, but 11 years of hard use is fair. I plan on keeping it and potentially tearing it down.
I did, however, manage to get one of the last remaining Kenmore Elite 41982 5.2 cu. ft. machines made. More to come with that being said!


Post# 1106559 , Reply# 14   2/2/2021 at 20:15 (1,171 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Looking forward to the update with this information!!!

Post# 1106561 , Reply# 15   2/2/2021 at 20:34 (1,171 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
I wouldn't keep using it until it explodes. It could do that when it's high speed spinning and you will literally have a mess.
There are videos and lawsuits showing washers that came apart with parts flying all over.
Someone can get injured or killed. Plus, you're likely to have pieces of metal shavings falling into your wash water and entering your clothing with each load going forward. And they could rust and leave stains.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradfordwhite's LINK


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Post# 1106640 , Reply# 16   2/3/2021 at 18:10 (1,170 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Washers That Fly Apart

combo52's profile picture

Bad bearings are not what leads to self-destruction, It is usually spider or drum failures and an Asko or Miele, or Speed Queen will never fly apart, It is most likely new oversized TL and FL washers that are doing this.

 

The biggest problem with continuing to run a FL washer with bad bearings is when they get pretty loose you may get rust stains on some clothing and the basket will destroy itself and the outer tub etc making any possibility of repairing it too costly.

 

John L.

 

 


Post# 1106793 , Reply# 17   2/4/2021 at 19:39 (1,169 days old) by Searsbest (Attleboro, Ma)        
Duet spider failure..

searsbest's profile picture
In my decades experience of appliance repair, I have never seen an "Exploding" machine due to spider failure. It will most likely throw an error code for motor/speed issues before it completely fails, and even if it were to completely fail, it would most likely happen in motor ramp up/down when it would never be at a high enough speed to be of any danger..

Post# 1106807 , Reply# 18   2/4/2021 at 21:29 (1,169 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
I refurbed a 2011 Samsung frontloader in 2016 that friends of my sister gave to her for the repair quote being too costly.  Sister figured I could do it for less cost.  The spider had broken presumably during spin.  The machine didn't "explode" to complete destruction but the drum put a gash in the front half of the outer tub.


Post# 1106828 , Reply# 19   2/5/2021 at 01:45 (1,169 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
To best of one's knowledge not a single factory repair service will replace bearings or spider on domestic front loaders as a rule. If one or both go during warranty period that is another matter, but otherwise they usually stick with "repair is too expensive" line.

Miele flat out will not replace a spider or bearing as routine service call in house. For in warranty repair washer must be crated and shipped to their New Jersey shops, work done, then shipped back to customer. Out of warranty they will at first often dig in their heels but if customer insists it is same as above, but customer is on hook for all that crating, shipping, etc... plus costs of parts and labor for repair.

A member IIRC had either bearings or spider go out on his rather new Miele 4XXX series washer. Miele sent a tech from New Jersey up to his home and advised yes, the problem was as suspected then offered to arrange shipping of appliance back to NJ for repair. Member stood his ground and stated as washer was brand new and bearings/spider shouldn't be going out he wanted a new washer. That is exactly what happened.


Across the pond in Europe people including hobbists swap out bearings on Miele and other washers all the time.






Post# 1106832 , Reply# 20   2/5/2021 at 05:16 (1,169 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Cost effectiveness

They say it's to expensive because frankly it is.



Did that math several times on here and gave reason why welded tubs are generally not that big of a deal to 90% of the population.




No matter if it is a welded tub, splittable tub or separate bearing cross design, if you do not do it yourself, forget about bearing or spider replacements being worth it.




A whole tub assembly is significantly more expensive compared to just the bearings.

A good set of bearings plus seal will set you back 40-80$ approximately.
A spider can actually be had for certain Samsung or LG models at 80-120$.

A whole tub assembly (like Electrolux) is 200$ upwards, usually more like 300-400$ after shipping.




However, removing the bearings from most designs is quite a job.

There are a few newer exceptions.
Some second to last Gen Gorenje (EU brand) washers still had metal tubs with bearing crosses; Miele's W1 design isn't to dissimilar.
You can just take the back of, take of the belt and pulley, then undo the bearing cross with the drum and tub remaining in the machine.
That takes a skilled technician 10min tops, so a bearing change is a 30min thing.

However, on everything else, you have to remove the entirety of the tub assembly from the machine and then split the tub.
That means either removing the entire bottom (pump, piping, shocks etc.) plus all the counter weights.
Then slide the tub out, split the tub.
Change bearings and back.



On sealed tub designs you usually save the whole tub splitting thing.






Point is, any way, you are paying about 500$ AT LEAST to get it professionally done.

I say at least since usually, you need 2 tech visits (diagnosis and ordering parts plus return visit) and pricing is conservatively estimated.

800$ is not far from basically any new washer.










One interesting design over here are the AEG/ELux H-axis TLs.

They have bearing units conceptionally not unlike what you would find on those huge Milnor industrial washers.

The bearings sit in a plastic housing that is fitted to the tub as a separate piece.

There are points for a wrench to attach to.

A pair of bearings is 50€ or so.
You remove the side panels, remove belt and pulley on the one side plus the grounding lead.
Remove bearing, screw new one in.

Depending on if the tech has them handy that repair is done in like 20min.
200-300€ total.




But a very easy DIY repair since you don't have to handle bearings and parts are cheap.

Here a video that illustrates the simplicity of the operation:






Post# 1106837 , Reply# 21   2/5/2021 at 07:28 (1,169 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Spider-bearing Failures and Replacement On FL Washers

combo52's profile picture

I would guess that not even 5% of FL washers that have failures in this area will get fixed so it probably makes more sense  to weld the tub assembly together and eliminate another place where many washers start to leak.

 

On high quality washers like SQs FL machines bearing and seal replacement is quite easy because the trunnion assembly that contains the bearings and seal is bolted to the outside back of the SS outer tub and can be changed in about 1/2 hour in the home.

 

Keep in mind spider failures should be very rare in well built machines if the washer is used properly.  [ lots of detergent, hot water and LCB you will never have a problem with any FL washer ]

 

The FL machines we saw the most spider failures in the US are,

 

FD built small door models built from 1998-2011,

 

The early WP Duet Sport models,

 

Miele 27" full sized models, 

 

GE Little Swann 27" models

 

Lots of SS and LG machines.

 

That said we have seen spider failures in almost all FL machines at times if the machine was badly used as mentioned above, but if you can ruin a spider in a German WP Duet, Maytag Neptune, FD square door or Affinity machine or a SQ FL machine you have some seriously bad laundry habits.

 

John L.

 

 


Post# 1106839 , Reply# 22   2/5/2021 at 08:06 (1,169 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
The aforementioned Samsung did not have bad bearings.

I replaced the spider, which was available as a separate part.  The front half of the outer tub.  The gasket between the outer tub halves.  The six bolts on the spider.  The seal on the bearings.

 143.01 tub front DC97-15596A
  83.52 spider DC97-15491A
  11.64 spider bolts DC60-40137A
   6.22 tub gasket DC69-00804A
   4.90 bearing seal DC62-00223A
   6.99 shipping
 ------
 259.21




Post# 1106940 , Reply# 23   2/5/2021 at 18:16 (1,168 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
If you have the bearing and your outter tub is good, you might be able to take both to an auto mechanic that has a bearing press. He/she could remove the old and install the new.

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Post# 1106990 , Reply# 24   2/6/2021 at 06:32 (1,168 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Bearing press

If the bearings aren't sealed in (yes, in some designs, the bearings are molded into the tub while they are formed), you don't even need a bearing press.

Usually you can knock out the old ones with a chisel and very gently knock in the new ones with a piece of wood of them and the last bit with the old bearing as a spacer.
A bit tideous but doable.


Post# 1106993 , Reply# 25   2/6/2021 at 07:18 (1,168 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Bearing Removable and Instalation

combo52's profile picture

We use an old agitator shaft and heavy hammer, for installation it is better to use an installer and pull them into place, it is much too easy to damage or ruin the new bearings any other way.

 

John L.


Post# 1106998 , Reply# 26   2/6/2021 at 09:00 (1,168 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
Yes, bearing installation needs to be done carefully so as not to damage it.

I had the defective bearings replaced on my low mileage car in 2018 when it was still under warranty. It was done by a Nissan dealer yet they screwed it up and less than a year later the bearings were bad again. I found an independent mechanic who did a great job. Even showed me the press they use and why it needs to press on only the edges of the bearing, never the center when installing.



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