Thread Number: 86109  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
'75 DE806 not shutting off after cool down
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Post# 1106713   2/4/2021 at 09:28 (1,175 days old) by marks (Tucker, GA)        

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Hi Everyone,
Does anyone have experience with an DE806 not turning off after cool down? The heat shuts off at the DING!, but then it will just run indefinitely on air.
Thanks!
-Mark


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Post# 1106715 , Reply# 1   2/4/2021 at 09:36 (1,175 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

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Sounds like a faulty cool down thermostat.

Post# 1106717 , Reply# 2   2/4/2021 at 09:40 (1,175 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Potential sign that the push button switch is starting to go bad. Pull the top control panel cover and inspect for the linkage between the solenoid and the push button switch. The linkage looks like a paper clip bent to shape.

If the linkage is in place and the solenoid is activating and sliding the switch in attempts to shut the dryer off, then the overall switch assembly is starting to go bad. PN 3-2528/302528.

Ben


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Post# 1106766 , Reply# 3   2/4/2021 at 16:56 (1,175 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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Someone also mentioned that this could be a grounding issue somewhere. Does that sound like it could also be something?

Post# 1106768 , Reply# 4   2/4/2021 at 17:05 (1,175 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
could be a grounding issue somewhere

qsd-dan's profile picture
The bell would never chime if there was a grounding issue.

It's a broken paperclip linkage, broken tab on the switch where the linkage connects, bad switch, or bad cool down thermostat.


Post# 1106846 , Reply# 5   2/5/2021 at 09:03 (1,174 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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I ran it today and all of the clips are there but the solenoid was not activating. Makes me think it’s not getting the signal from the sensor. Which one is the cool down sensor?

Post# 1106857 , Reply# 6   2/5/2021 at 10:10 (1,174 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
Once the solenoid resets the timer selector switch and the bell chimes then the cool down thermostat is what shuts the dryer off. If the solenoid is not activating then there is probably an issue with the moisture sensor circuit, for example the drum baffle sensors, wiring from the baffles to the carbon brush, the carbon brush that rides on the slip ring, the electronic control.

Post# 1106869 , Reply# 7   2/5/2021 at 10:51 (1,174 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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Have you run just the air fluff cycle to see if it shuts off automatically within 15 minutes?

Post# 1106870 , Reply# 8   2/5/2021 at 11:05 (1,174 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
Control Switch 302528

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I've sent out about a half dozen control switches to fellow members in the last year or so. While there is a potential for the cool down t-stat to have gone bad, the age of the push button switches and cycle count these have gone through in their life time leave the wafer slider to get weak.

All good suggestions stated above, but one thing I'd also try is to shut the dryer off by sliding the slider manually. If it shuts off with confident movement you can rule out the switch. If it requires some finesse the switch itself is the culprit.

How long did it run and ding, previously, when it was trying to shut itself off? A few minutes? A few hours? Did it take opening the door to shut the dryer off?

Ben


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Post# 1106900 , Reply# 9   2/5/2021 at 14:39 (1,174 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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Correction! I ran it again to see and the solenoid is disconnecting, pushing the paper clip out and turning off the heat, then it just keeps running and running. The moisture sensor and carbon rod seem ok. I get continuity from the sensor to the copper ring.
Trying just the air fluff cycle now to see what happens.
Ben I know you rebuilt the timer on my ‘59! Still working perfectly!!


Post# 1106918 , Reply# 10   2/5/2021 at 16:00 (1,174 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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Ok this is interesting. I ran the air fluff cycle and it Dinged at 15 minutes but then continued to run indefinitely.

Post# 1106919 , Reply# 11   2/5/2021 at 16:02 (1,174 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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Ben, I had towels in there and it ran out 50 minutes before it dinged and went into indefinite cool down.

Post# 1106927 , Reply# 12   2/5/2021 at 16:41 (1,174 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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Ben, I could be wrong, but I vaguely remember reading something in a service manual or user manual that when using the air fluff cycle, there was something that "timed" that function/cycle. I'm wondering if whatever that is that "times" the air fluff, is causing the dryer to not turn off.

Post# 1106929 , Reply# 13   2/5/2021 at 16:45 (1,174 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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Check continuity across the cool down thermostat (part# 303394) at room temp (below 120F). There should be no continuity.

Post# 1106932 , Reply# 14   2/5/2021 at 17:17 (1,174 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Time to check the cool down t-stat. It may be stuck closed, once they get below 125-130 degrees they should open. With the dryer cold, check for continuity across the t-stat (disconnect the leads first). If it's still closed you'll want to replace it.

Ben

EDIT - Dan beat me to the punch. Nice to see such a collaborate effort!


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Post# 1106936 , Reply# 15   2/5/2021 at 17:53 (1,173 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Hey Bob, I had to do some digging to find the time values assigned to testing all options on the bar baffle version. Air Fluff has the same time value as Regular. Suspect when using the dryer Air Fluff would take this long for both testing and actual use, whereas Regular uses a different path through the electronic control that varies time depending upon the load (discharging the capacitor due to a wet load).

Ben


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Post# 1106937 , Reply# 16   2/5/2021 at 18:06 (1,173 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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Thanks Ben!!!

Post# 1107116 , Reply# 17   2/7/2021 at 10:55 (1,172 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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There is continuity! So this must be the problem. Thanks everyone!

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Post# 1107123 , Reply# 18   2/7/2021 at 11:28 (1,172 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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If your laundry room has access to an HVAC register and you regularly use A/C during the summertime months, you have the option of using a lower rated cool down thermostat. This will provide a longer cool down phase which results in less wrinkled clothing.

Post# 1107851 , Reply# 19   2/13/2021 at 14:55 (1,166 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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The part came and I replaced it and it still isn’t shutting off!

Post# 1107868 , Reply# 20   2/13/2021 at 16:12 (1,166 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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Could be a bad part - did you repeat the same continuity test?

Post# 1107876 , Reply# 21   2/13/2021 at 17:40 (1,165 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

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And why is this not a problem from the timer?

I'm not a Maytag expert and it sounds like the timer gets almost to the end and stops moving. Like a contact for the timer motor lets up too soon.


Post# 1107881 , Reply# 22   2/13/2021 at 18:05 (1,165 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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Because the DE806 is an electronic control machine that doesn't actually have a timer or timer motor. Instead it uses the charging and discharging of a capacitor, and some other components as electro-mechanical logic elements/switches, to regulate how long the machine should run and how things shut off in sequence.


Post# 1107882 , Reply# 23   2/13/2021 at 18:10 (1,165 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Using the ladder test procedure above from Let’s Talk Service, does it shut off at all? Beginning to suspect the electronic control/capacitor is on the fritz if all connections are good at the control.


Post# 1107898 , Reply# 24   2/13/2021 at 23:04 (1,165 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

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So apparently Maytag was the leader with fake knobs/cycle selectors that look like a traditional timer but actually control some type of computer?

Post# 1107899 , Reply# 25   2/14/2021 at 00:26 (1,165 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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606 and 806 control doesn't have minute markings, just settings for Regular, Perm Press, Air Fluff, and Damp Dry.  They don't move from the selected function through the cycle to an Off position ... there is no Off position.  There's a Highlander model and of course the 906 that have pushbuttons instead of a rotary knob.


Post# 1107910 , Reply# 26   2/14/2021 at 05:16 (1,165 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

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I always thought the 806 had a standard timer and the fancier lighted panel.
The 906 dryer was rapid advance.

They're fun to look at anyway. Fixing them ?


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Post# 1107912 , Reply# 27   2/14/2021 at 06:09 (1,165 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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They all have the same control module inside the panel.  906 dryer is not rapid-advance, there is no mechanical timer involved.

906 washer has a mechanical rapid-advance timer.


Post# 1107915 , Reply# 28   2/14/2021 at 06:30 (1,165 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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606 dryer, 806, and another 806 or 808.


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Post# 1107923 , Reply# 29   2/14/2021 at 09:54 (1,165 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

So from what I understand the dryer recognised the load is dry, than goes into a temperature controlled cool down which doesn't self terminate even though the temperature sensor has been replaced and is thus probably known good?



If so - even though I know nothing about those dryers - I would dare to guess that there is some sort or relay or otherwise electrically activated switch of some kind that switches the motor to mains?

That could very well be sticky.
With a sticky relay, it might just stay closed even though the coil voltage is removed.


Post# 1107973 , Reply# 30   2/14/2021 at 18:53 (1,164 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
Thanks for that Glenn.

I actually had a 806 dryer I picked up when I was collecting in 2002 with that panel and timer. But was so overwhelmed with all the appliances I never got to check out the timer. I had no idea it was entirely electronic.

Now, how to fix the dryer at hand? Why won't it shut off and are timer parts still available for these dryers?


Post# 1108038 , Reply# 31   2/15/2021 at 09:03 (1,164 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

marks's profile picture
The stair step above still would say that the cool down sensor should be the issue. When it’s cold there is no continuity on the new part.

Post# 1108039 , Reply# 32   2/15/2021 at 09:04 (1,164 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

marks's profile picture
Ben, where is the electronic control capacitor? I’ll test that next.

Post# 1108042 , Reply# 33   2/15/2021 at 09:27 (1,164 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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The capacitor is mounted on the electronic control assembly itself, vs. the 08-12 series being part of the harness connector. It would be difficult to test with it in circuit. Any chance you could take a few pictures of the control? I'd like to see the condition of the terminal connections.

Is the dryer dinging at all when attempting to dry a full load on either Regular or Perm Press, and not shutting off? Or has it stopped dinging completely? If you start the dryer can you manually shut the dryer off by moving the slider on the back of the switch towards the solenoid (use an insulated tool for this test)?

The replacement cool down stat is acting normal if open when cold.

Ben


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Post# 1108043 , Reply# 34   2/15/2021 at 09:36 (1,164 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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It runs the full cycle and dings, clothes are dry, but then it still goes into the endless cool down and never shuts off. Here are some pics of the control.

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Post# 1108044 , Reply# 35   2/15/2021 at 09:41 (1,164 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
Looking A-OK

swestoyz's profile picture
Before mucking with the wiring, test the shut off slider on the back of the control switch.

Post# 1108045 , Reply# 36   2/15/2021 at 09:49 (1,164 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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Is the shut off slider the little clip the paper clip attaches to? If so, it moves, but it’s a little crunchy.

Post# 1108046 , Reply# 37   2/15/2021 at 09:52 (1,164 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Yep, it's the brown/dark colored wafer that the paper clip is attached to.

It shouldn't be crunchy. Did it shut the dryer off, or take several cycles (move slider to off, dryer doesn't turn off, press the control knob to on, repeat)?

As I mentioned earlier, these switches are starting to become the Achilles heel of the electronic control HOH dryers.

Ben


Post# 1108047 , Reply# 38   2/15/2021 at 09:53 (1,164 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

You need a selector switch

 

John


Post# 1108048 , Reply# 39   2/15/2021 at 09:57 (1,164 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

marks's profile picture
I just cleaned it out with some contact cleaner. It’s sliding nicely now. Let’s see what happens.

Post# 1108050 , Reply# 40   2/15/2021 at 10:24 (1,164 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

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Same situation. It dings, shuts the heat off and then runs indefinitely. The slider slides properly now though.

Post# 1108051 , Reply# 41   2/15/2021 at 10:25 (1,164 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Even though the slider may be moving freely, doesn't mean it is actually shutting the machine off by opening the contacts within the switch.

If you manually move it to off while running, does the dryer turn off? At this point I'd say you need to start searching for a replacement 302528 switch.


Post# 1108055 , Reply# 42   2/15/2021 at 11:23 (1,164 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Has anyone ever done an autopsy on a failed switch? Or have a photo of what the inside looks like?
I'd be interested to see how it is that they fail... and whether they might be rebuildable.


Post# 1108060 , Reply# 43   2/15/2021 at 12:21 (1,164 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

marks's profile picture
Sliding the slider manually turns off the heat but not the motor. The only thing that turns it off is opening the door.

Post# 1108061 , Reply# 44   2/15/2021 at 12:24 (1,164 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Time for a new switch.

Post# 1108108 , Reply# 45   2/15/2021 at 19:10 (1,163 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

marks's profile picture
Yes I guess so... I’ll switch these out for the time being. The washer needs damper pads. At least these machines are most of the way there and they look good!

Post# 1108128 , Reply# 46   2/15/2021 at 20:19 (1,163 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Absolutely agree they are worth it for the long haul. I’ll check my stash of parts tomorrow and if there are than one switch in the totes I’ll shoot you a PM.

Ben


Post# 1108152 , Reply# 47   2/15/2021 at 22:21 (1,163 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

maytag85's profile picture
Since the electronic dry control wasn’t working properly on my Maytag DG606, I ended up converting it to a DG306 timer dryer. Haven’t had any issues since I converted it to a timer dryer in 2019 and has been trouble free since then.

Post# 1110039 , Reply# 48   3/2/2021 at 21:44 (1,148 days old) by Marks (Tucker, GA)        

marks's profile picture
Ben, if you do have the switch, let me know. I’ll send you back the old one just like the swap we did on the last one.

Post# 1110051 , Reply# 49   3/3/2021 at 07:48 (1,148 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Hey Mark, my original stash is now down to one switch and I'd like to hold on to it for a future project. If I run across anymore I'll let you know.

Ben



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