Thread Number: 86181  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Maytag SAV (Amana-Tag) - Tub seal leak help 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 1107384   2/9/2021 at 17:14 (1,171 days old) by Jben (AL)        

I purchased this Maytag SAV5600AWW (series 10 that was made in Oct. 2001) only about 6 months ago and delivered it to my daughter who lives 10 hours away. As you can see I cleaned it up real well and it was working great.

Recently she was washing a mattress pad and appears it was overloaded because she said it really started banging around, she smelled burning rubber (the belt), and then she noticed water on the floor at the base of the machine! Via phone, I had her pull off the bottom panel and she said she felt moisture up around the bottom center of the tub and we found no leaks at any of the drain hoses or pump. Therefore I guess this out-of-balance did some kind of damage, but regardless it looks like it will need some type of new seal.

It appears there was a change to a newer triple-lip seal\bearing kit (W10116791) a year later (~Sept. 2002) but I believe this washer used the prior design, where the hub is pressed down over the splines instead of screwing on/off via threads. I say that because I can see the main bearing is mounted in the metal bracket and attached via three bolts vs. being integrated with the seal as in that updated seal kit.

I talked to two appliance stores in her community hoping I could find someone to repair it and both thought it would be better to just plan on replacing this washer. One said it would be $300 or more. I know I could buy a semi-refurbished WP/KM TL for less and maybe about what all the parts may cost, but this machine cleaned up so nice I hate to just junk it now.

Reading old post it seems some didn't think much of these AmanaTag washers from this era. I was surprised because it looked to me to be of robust design?

What do you think of these machines - are they worth keeping in service or will more headaches be showing up so better to cut my losses and just find a WP/KM TL ?

If the main bearing still test good (I think it will), do you think just pulling off the drive bell and replacing the one seal under it will fix the leak; or should I expect to have to tear it down further by removing the 1.5" nut, pulling the hub and then pull the outer tub (plastic on this washer) out to replace the other seals that are below the hub? That will turn into a MUCH bigger job, but I would give it a try if this machine would then provide good service.

I ask because the drive bell with the one seal are still easily sourced #39508P (picture attached). However, the full seal kit with a new hub, R9900457, is "no longer available" but I think aftermarket versions may be located for $100-120.

If I lived closer I would be able to tear it down and figure it all out better but I'm trying to decide what to do before I make a long drive to visit in a few months. Appreciate any and all advice.




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Post# 1107400 , Reply# 1   2/9/2021 at 19:40 (1,170 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
More than likely you are looking at a full tear down and replacement of the bearing and seal kit that is no longer available. 9 times out of 10 the belt burned off because the bearing was frozen because the water seal had been leaking on it.

I always thought these were good machines but the tub seal was definitely the weak link not the drive bell seal. My opinion would be to cut your losses and find a nice KM/WP direct drive or a speed queen 2017 or older.


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