Thread Number: 86497
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Kenmore 90 Series Washer Repair Disaster |
[Down to Last] |
|
Post# 1110776 , Reply# 1   3/9/2021 at 21:02 (1,114 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
more details....
overflowed, as in it kept filling?.....plugged in or not?.... first thing I would check is the air dome tube, is it connected on both ends?... need a better description of 'noise'..... best always if you dont have knowledge of a direct drive machine, to check out youtube vids, they are very detailed and helpful for repairs.. where exactly do you live, direct drive machines are plentiful just about anywhere you look... keep us posted... |
Post# 1110836 , Reply# 3   3/10/2021 at 10:52 (1,113 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
The timer is set for spin, yes? Need a longer video, and one with the lid open showing the interior (and with the lid switch manually depressed) may also be helpful. The pump attaches directly to the front of the motor and operates at all times that the motor runs. Agitation, the pump effectively runs in reverse to force water back into the tub instead of out the drain hose. Draining (normally) involves the motor running with the transmission in neutral mode ... however, getting it into neutral is a mechanical process that requires some agitation to occur first, otherwise it goes directly into spin instead of neutral drain. Water does, of course, also drains during spin. Check that the pressure tube is connected to the water level control in the console before further disassembling to check at the air dome. The console has to be opened/raised first anyway before removing the cabinet. |
Post# 1111027 , Reply# 5   3/12/2021 at 00:56 (1,112 days old) by kendall22 (Oak Hills)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
The rubber tube is attached at the console and at the bottom. |
Post# 1111070 , Reply# 6   3/12/2021 at 12:02 (1,111 days old) by kendall22 (Oak Hills)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
The site doesn't allow me to edit my posts. I watched some YouTube videos on overfilling washer problems. I disconnected the tube at the console. I can easily blow through it so it isn't plugged. Does that indicate that the switch is bad? |
Post# 1111072 , Reply# 7   3/12/2021 at 12:13 (1,111 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Could be. But given your previous issues I'd actually more tend towards a timer issue. Does it still overfill on any setting (so all wash and rinse fills)? Or just on certain settings or sporadically? |
Post# 1111074 , Reply# 9   3/12/2021 at 12:45 (1,111 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
1    
The model may be 110.20902990 (which searches for parts) instead of 110.209092990 (which does not search). I have a 110.20907990. The water level switch can be checked with a multimeter if you have one. Disconnect the wires from it. Should read continuity across the V and P terminals with no pressure on it. Blow into the switch (where the pressure tube attaches) to make it click (pressure applied), then continuity should shift to V and T. That tests the contacts, however the internal diaphram could be failed such that it leaks pressure. There's an unhealthy gear or whirring sound on the mechanism that changes tone from start until spins get going full speed. Did your son remove the internal transmission parts when examining it and possibly get something reassembled wrong? You should be able to get the machine to agitate with no water by setting the timer at the last two minutes of the wash period on the Ultra Clean/Regular cycle. The lid switch must be depressed. Your reference on failure to drain may indicate a factor being the pump is cracked where it interfaces to the motor shaft and the motor isn't driving it. Just an idea from afar.
View Full Size
|
Post# 1111075 , Reply# 10   3/12/2021 at 12:48 (1,111 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 1111198 , Reply# 13   3/13/2021 at 07:21 (1,110 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
You mean a black background on the control panel? They're mechanically the same. Whirlpool introduced their direct-drive design in 1981/1982 under the Sears/Kenmore brand as test-marketing and kept it a Sears exclusive for a couple years. Whirlpool's first model was in 1984. They were produced under numerous brand names ... Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Inglis. Whirlpool bought Maytag in 2006 which brought Maytag, Admiral, Amana, and Crosley brands into play. Most KitchenAid units after 1989-ish ran high agitation at the low motor speed with a larger agitator that rolled the load over with less aggressive action. Those KitchenAid models are considered the best of the bunch but are harder to find on the used market. |
Post# 1112161 , Reply# 16   3/20/2021 at 21:08 (1,103 days old) by Keith (Connecticut )   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
1    
My guess is the snap ring your son had to modify to fit failed again because it had been modified, or the groove on the shaft is damaged and allowing the snap ring to pop off. |
Post# 1112446 , Reply# 17   3/23/2021 at 02:29 (1,101 days old) by kendall22 (Oak Hills)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Thank you so much for your reply, Keith. We will check out the snap ring and inspect the groove for damage. Is it worthwhile to fix such an old machine? My husband believes that it is worn out and a waste of time to keep repairing it. |
Post# 1112474 , Reply# 18   3/23/2021 at 10:14 (1,100 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
3    
|