Thread Number: 86557
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
SERVIS quartz 6035 drum bearings and parts |
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Post# 1111453 , Reply# 1   3/15/2021 at 06:45 (1,131 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)   |   | |
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I have a feeling that the bearing is the same size as used on many Hoover/Hotpoint machines of that era, However I could be wrong.
If your able to get the bearings out along with any seals you may need you can get the bearings from any manufacturer. There are a few around you just need the sizes. The seals however may be more of an issue as you won't be able to get them unless some kind soul on here may help you by donating/selling some spares they have collected. I also have an inkling that the Hoover Matchbox range of washer has the same door seal at least its of similar dimensions and I have fitted one to a Servis before now. Good luck with your quest I am sure you will receive some more encouraging messages soon. Regards Austin. |
Post# 1111470 , Reply# 2   3/15/2021 at 09:49 (1,131 days old) by Chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Afternoon Bureaucracy, welcome to AW, am sure we will be able to get the info for you, as you will know this series are now over 35 years old and the original manufacturer , Servis UK is long gone .Some parts are available on eBay and the likes as well as independent shops that may have old stock, some members may have spares from cannibalised old machines .
Please help us out by showing us a pic of the serial plate and number from inside the door .,this will let us identify what series it is and which parts are needed as they changed with production runs . Have you had the washer from new, has it had many repairs ? Look forward to hearing from you and the gang at AW helping you out. Cheers , Mike This post was last edited 03/15/2021 at 12:20 |
Post# 1111512 , Reply# 4   3/15/2021 at 14:01 (1,130 days old) by Chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Here's a link to a thread previously on here with regards to your Quartz 6035 , a good source of issues although a change of bearings is not documented so good they seem to be ...
Also I've listed the original spares catalogue numbers from Qualtex which tend to crossover with regards to searching across other spares suppliers if they have any left. The bearings can be cross referenced with current bearing manufactures when identified as fitted , also codes for the front tub seal and door gasket . The door seal is DBT50 Ball Race Bearing kit is BKT 46 Front tub seal GSK52 Hope this helps , they are great washers and seem to last longingly with a little TLC when required. Cheers Mike CLICK HERE TO GO TO Chestermikeuk's LINK |
Post# 1111640 , Reply# 7   3/16/2021 at 08:32 (1,130 days old) by Chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Is it an original Spin Care drum ( no holes) or later Chevron drum ( patterned hold chevron shape)because some later drums have taper bearings , they tended to be on later higher spin speed models , just in case its had a drum change etc ..
The bearing kit shows on the top the rubber spring seals , then the bearings , middle is the crush washer and spacer , your right the SKF bearings. As you can imagine original parts are like hen's teeth , the drum seals being the issue , I've checked with Steve who is in the other thread as he's the only person I know who has changed bearings on this series , all mine have held up , my mum had here's washing for family of six and new baby grandchild for 18yrs and no bearing changes ... Cheers, Mike |
Post# 1111641 , Reply# 8   3/16/2021 at 08:35 (1,130 days old) by Chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Hold fire at the moment we are just checking if yours are taper bearings rather than ball race bearings , Just been speaking to Steve who is checking , also that kit may contain a seal that is workable so it may be worth getting it for the seals alone which are the most difficult part to source ..
Cheers, Mike |
Post# 1111650 , Reply# 9   3/16/2021 at 10:10 (1,130 days old) by bureaucrazy (UK)   |   | |
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The drum is likely original. I bought the machine second hand in 1995 and it has so far only needed a new motor due to tachometer failure.
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Post# 1111721 , Reply# 10   3/16/2021 at 19:17 (1,129 days old) by SEsteve (London, UK)   |   | |
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Here are some pictures I took of the bearings on the model before yours - the grey fascia 6030 with a spincare drum . This machine had a leaking seal but when I stripped it down the bearings were fine - just needed greasing and a new water seal fitted. These bearings are built to last so you might find greasing sorts it out. I think the bearing kit I show there is for the earlier quartz models but the seal was the same. Have you taken the belt off to check to see if it’s not the motor bearing as these can be quite loud when they wear?
I was able to reuse the tub seal and didn’t need to silicon it as I couldn’t find a new one. I took more photos than this as I actually removed the cabinet off the chassis but I can’t seen to find them. If I do I’ll pop them up as having the cabinet off made things so much easier. There was a new door seal on eBay a few weeks back as I flagged to another member who was on the lookout for one so they do pop up from time to time. Good luck. |
Post# 1111765 , Reply# 11   3/17/2021 at 03:37 (1,129 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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The drum in your 6035 throws up a dilemma as it must be a changeover model from the smoothe spin care drum, BUT I thought the new drum was the Chevron style, holes in the shape of a chevron arrow etc, yours is showing holes with no pattern.
Which makes it either a new original or it has been changed at some point, very interesting !! Cheers Steve for posting the bearing pics, I wonder did many other manufacturers use the taper bearings do we know ? |
Post# 1113194 , Reply# 14   3/30/2021 at 04:44 (1,116 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Great to know you are proceeding with repairs, as this is a 35+ yrs old washer its likely that it will need repairs, for the hoses we use "Son of a Gun" spray to keep them supple or get some of the sticky mastic tape to cover them with , also there are manufacturers of rubber piping for new stuff when needed.
The weeping stained brown water is coming from the bearing seal channell, if the tub seal fails water should bypass the bearings and drain from the channell rather than ingress the bearings , if you take the belt off and spin the drum you will hear the growl and feel the rumble if bearings are going , saying that my drum just went very stiff to turn and seized spectacularly on spin . Only other items are the heater and thermistor but non of mine have ever blown, so yes its prob best to keep searching and build up a stash of new or from scrapped machines to keep it going . look forward to hearing how you get on with the repairs !!
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Post# 1113392 , Reply# 16   3/31/2021 at 17:53 (1,114 days old) by SEsteve (London, UK)   |   | |
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Well done on tracking down the bearing kit. You might find once you strip the.machine down that it is just the seal and the bearings are ok and just need greasing. The replacement ones are a different design and in my opinion not as good as the originals. As Mike said, the water coming out from the hole is where it has got past the seal but not into the bearings so it will be wear on them if they do need replacing. Wait and see when you strip it down. I think the silver washers are to make up for the reduced depth of the replacement bearings but I could be wrong.
I’ve searched everywhere for the photos but must have deleted them but you will need to take off the outer cabinet to get the outer tub cover off and the drum out. It’s quite easy as you don’t need to disconnect everything. You basically remove the soap dispenser and disconnect the facia control board and remove it, undo the door catch screws, remove the door seal from the cabinet, unclip any wires from the cabinet and remove the screws holding the cabinet to the base and the back panels and it should pull off. You’ll be left with the outer tub on its suspension on the plinth a bit like the earlier model in the picture. The front cover unclips. Be careful removing the pulley as they can break - I always use a wooden wedge which I try to hold near to the centre where the spikes are thicker. Take lots of pictures as you go as a reference but also so we can see here! Good luck! |
Post# 1113594 , Reply# 17   4/3/2021 at 04:13 (1,112 days old) by Chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Here's the schematic diagrams showing exploded parts .The beauty of the Servis UK washing machines is they are built on a solid metal chassis baseplate , so removing the cabinet is easy as Steve says above and much easier to work on bearing changes etc ..
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Post# 1113923 , Reply# 21   4/6/2021 at 16:16 (1,108 days old) by SEsteve (London, UK)   |   | |
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Well done so far. Yes those clamp bands are a bit of a pain especially to put back on - I think the other holes are used to let you squeeze it together to get the clip in place. A fellow member had a nasty accident with a screwdriver trying to put one of these back on though!
I would just try and secure the loose gubbins as best as you can - they won’t go far but you don’t want to loosen any seals with the hoses with the dispenser moving etc. The machine is best left upright for doing the bearings. Again be careful taking the clips off as they have a tendency to ping off in all directions. The hardest part will probably be loosening the bolt holding the pulley on depending on how tight it’s been done up. Use a piece of wood that will fit snugly in the recesses in the outer tub to jam the pulley to stop it turning while you undo the bolt and also use it to protect the end of the drum shaft as you will have to give it a couple of whacks to free the drum so you can pull it out. If it has the same bearings mine had they should just pull out by hand. If it’s the other sealed type then you will need to knock them out. Hope that’s not teaching you to suck eggs! You are well on your way so shouldn’t take too long from here. |
Post# 1114036 , Reply# 24   4/8/2021 at 11:49 (1,107 days old) by SEsteve (London, UK)   |   | |
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Great progress and yes they have definitely failed!
So you are right your new part 3 is the counterface and looking at your 5th picture the original one has split. You need to lever this out and clean up the housing and the new one should push in - usually would use some debor glue under the rubber seal. You might want to clean up the bush at the base of the shaft first with fine wet and dry paper as it looks rough and could damage the new seal. Part 4 is correct. The original spring has probably rusted and collapsed. This will be glued in so just pull it out and again clean up the recess and glue the new one in. I think what you can see there is limescale as the glue will be on the rear of the seal. For both these parts make sure you keep the carbon seal clean. When the drum goes back in it will compress the spring and that will provide the seal. Its a good idea to do a couple of spin cycles without water when it’s all back together to help the two faces to bed in. I don’t remember a felt washer on mine so maybe it stayed on the bearing - it’s not shown in the drawing Mike posted so I would reuse these. I doubt very much that they are asbestos. Keep up the good work |
Post# 1114134 , Reply# 26   4/9/2021 at 13:25 (1,105 days old) by sesteve (London, UK)   |   | |
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The drum is stainless steel and the spider is an alloy so be careful with that as it might not be as robust.
I'm not sure about the spare part numbers but you can change both the heater and thermostat from the rear so probably best to leave as is until they stop working and source spares just in case. The thermostat is a thermistor type but they are generally reliable so if you clean the scale off then it should be OK. The thinner wire is the overheat protection. The design of the heaters has changed a few times -the first picture is my 6035 with just one connection for the protector (you can also see the staining from that bearing seal too) and the others from the 6030 with a thermal fuse. Generally most heaters are suitable as long as the wattage and length is correct so its possible to use alternatives as the protection is in line with the heater. |
Post# 1115132 , Reply# 28   4/20/2021 at 10:18 (1,095 days old) by Chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)   |   | |
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Hello , have just checked and we've found some other info, there was a transition on these models from metal tubs to plastic , and also newer drums from the spin care smoothe type , some plastic tubs had sleeves fused in so think they stay in , have put a call out to an engineer to check ..
Here's the other schematics ..hope this helps . |
Post# 1115225 , Reply# 30   4/21/2021 at 09:49 (1,094 days old) by sesteve (London, UK)   |   | |
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I'm not sure if that is a date code on the heater or not. There was a date sticker on the plastic tub of mine and I think on the underside of the lid and possibly the module so you could double check to see if there are any other date references that might match up.
As Mike says, I think the sleeves are welded to the tub. You could probably sand them with fine wet n dry paper to smooth them out. I'm guessing the machine has been running on one bearing looking at what was left of the front one and that is probably why the sleeve is quite rough. Did you have the spacer tube (photo 3 in reply#10) as I didn't see it in your pictures? Hopefully you are nearly there for reassembly |