Thread Number: 86617  /  Tag: Detergents and Additives
Cascade Fryer Boilout or BubbleBandit?
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Post# 1112181   3/21/2021 at 05:35 (1,103 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

I always use Cascade Fryer Boilout with the KDS-58. But I have been wondering if BubbleBandit is superior on grease.

 

What do you guys think?


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Post# 1112183 , Reply# 1   3/21/2021 at 05:46 (1,103 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Best Detergent For A Vintage KA DW and Soft Water ?

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Hi Louie, I would use the least aggressive detergent to get the job done, differently no phosphates in soft water,

 

Are you having cleaning problems with regular detergents ?, How dirty are you putting dishes in the DW ?

 

I have not seen your Bob Load posts to help you decide on detergent usage.

 

John L.


Post# 1112192 , Reply# 2   3/21/2021 at 07:22 (1,103 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

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My experience with Bubble Bandit wasn't good. It didn't remove starchy deposits on saucepans when cooking pasta, rice, potatoes, and certain sauces. I have extremely soft water, so was expecting BB to do well.

After a few disappointing loads I gave the bag to a friend without a water softener. Maybe it did better in hard water (the town's tap water is 24 grains) than standard detergents. Never asked if she liked it, nor did she offer her opinion.

Others members in the AW family use BB and like it, so hopefully a couple of them will chime in.

I've used Member's Mark Ultimate Clean pacs (Sam's Club; only 11 cents per pac) for several years with great results, but it hasn't been available online or in their Minnesota stores for at least nine months. Am now using Cascade Platinum Pacs with Dawn, again with great results.





Post# 1112210 , Reply# 3   3/21/2021 at 12:31 (1,103 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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Louis, I've been using Bubble Bandit for between a year nd 1.5 years. Bear in mind, I have a modern dishwasher. I always use Cascade Complete Powder for the prewash and BB for the main wash. Sometimes I have starchy residue on my Cuisinart MultiClad Pro SS cookware. I use normally my Normal wash with high-temp option. That heats the water to about 130 degrees and wash phase is about 58 minutes long. My Pots & Pans cycle with the same option is between 62 & 67 minutes for the same cycle phase. When I select Sani Rinse option for either cycle, main wash phase water temp is heated to 140 degrees and main wash phase is between 78 & 89 minutes. There is noticeable starchy residue for the first cycle/option combination, less residue for the 2nd cycle/option combination, and the 34d option/cycle combination, all residue is completely obliterated. A function of the extended spraying and higher wash temp. If you do try BB and initial results are disappointing using your Normal cycle as Eugene experienced, you probably would experience better results using your Soak & Scrub cycle with its multiple water heating and spraying periods during the "Soak" portion of the cycle. In my opinion, the 18 series Superbas had the best Soak & Scrub cycle of any of the 18-22 series KAs. I'm not sure what cycle options Eugene used in his experiments. But his Whirlpool dishwasher only has high-temp option that would get main wash temp to only 130 degrees and lacks the Sani-Rinse option which would get main wash phase temp to 140 degrees.

Post# 1112215 , Reply# 4   3/21/2021 at 12:51 (1,103 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

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Dishwasher; 2017 Whirlpool portable.

Cycle Used: 1-hr. The heater stays throughout the cycle. Also, take in to consideration that my hot tap temp is 150 degrees.

Dosage: I fill both the 1st wash and main wash compartments with Bubble Bandit.

Oddly, the heater is engaged far less during the Normal and Heavy Duty Cycles. The final rinse on the Heavy Duty cycle runs for 1 hour and 10 minutes, but apparently without the heater, as very little steam escapes when the door is opened at the end of the final rinse. There's not enough steam to flash dry the dishes as I normally dol I never bother with the dry cycle, which makes almost no difference.

So, despite the shorter cycle, the water temp remains much higher throughout the 1-hr cycle.


Post# 1112222 , Reply# 5   3/21/2021 at 14:24 (1,103 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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I think the heater runs during the entire 1-hour cycle. I got that impression one time when I opened the door during the end portion of the drain on that cycle and I heard a hiss when droplets hit the heating element. Never heard that on any other cycle.

Post# 1112300 , Reply# 6   3/22/2021 at 03:17 (1,102 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Thanks for the opinions guys. I usually use some cheap detergent for the prewash, then for the main wash, Boil0ut. I know Boilout is caustic, but I really hate greasy residue on the pans. I have tried Cascade Complete, but it just leaves too much behind. Is there anything else I can use that is really though on grease but not as caustic as Cascade Boilout?


Post# 1112301 , Reply# 7   3/22/2021 at 03:21 (1,102 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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John, I will finally be going for a Bobload certification for Easter. It really needs to be a big holiday to produce enough dirty dishes and cookware to really load up the KDS-58.


Post# 1112449 , Reply# 8   3/23/2021 at 03:10 (1,101 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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I also tried Boilout and didn't like it.  Switched to Premiere powder with chlorine and it's great in my KUDI23


Post# 1112450 , Reply# 9   3/23/2021 at 03:39 (1,101 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Is this what you are referring to Greg?


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Post# 1112489 , Reply# 10   3/23/2021 at 13:03 (1,101 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)        

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Louis, if grease is your top priority a liquid DW detergent might be worth a try.
Most have much higher surfactant levels than powders or tabs and the ones with enzymes are not nearly as caustic.
AFAIK most if not all nonionic sufactants which are typically used in automatic dishwashing detergents because of their low foam properties come in a liquid state and thus cannot be incorporated into dry products in larger quantities.
Suppose a hybrid (powder and gel) tab like Finish Quantum would not dissolve well in a very short cycle, but you could try a liquid in the pre rinse followed by Fryer Boilout or BubbleBandit in the mainwash or the other way around.


Post# 1112567 , Reply# 11   3/24/2021 at 02:14 (1,100 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Yes Louis that's it.  I really like it.  Doesn't take much with our water softener and it doesn't etch the glassware as bad.  I cleaned some glass bowls that were badly etched by scrubbing them with BKF powder.  It actually removed the etching.  So far they haven't re-etched with this detergent.


Post# 1112570 , Reply# 12   3/24/2021 at 06:58 (1,100 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        
Thanks for the News About the Premiere

I am having great results with Cascade Gel and STPP. The water is really slippery when it drains into the sink from the portable and it keeps the disposer really clean and bright and shiny, too. Occasionally, I run a load with the Cascade commercial with chlorine to remove tea stains. I think I can throw some oxy-clean bleach in with the enzyme Cascade and not murder the enzymes. 


Post# 1112571 , Reply# 13   3/24/2021 at 07:02 (1,100 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Stefan, I have used liquid (Gel) detergents in the past. They always dribble out before the main wash cycle. During prewash it really isn't that important. I sometimes use Radiance (Aldi). Pods are a gamble. Sometimes they are too big to fit in the detergent compartment.


Post# 1112572 , Reply# 14   3/24/2021 at 07:05 (1,100 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

 

Hey Greg. I haven't had an issue with etching, yet. But I am intrigued with Premiere. I am going to give it a try. Our water in NYC is soft.

 



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