Love your range! And not just because it's turquoise... LOL   You are very fortunate to still have the original griddle that came with it - these are so frequently missing from these GE ranges. 

About the Automatic Calrod unit... I had a similar issue to what you have described about the unit seeming to stay on even when it was set to "off".  I was able to get it to a full off but setting the control dial so that the 'pointer' on the dial was set to the right of the 'auto unit' indicator light lens.   I got tired of having to do that so I removed the control and managed to re-align it so that it was completely off when the dial pointer was lined up to the center of the auto unit text.   I did not document what I did, unfortunately, and I do not recall exactly what I did either... 

These early thermostatic control were a bit tricky from the word 'go' and I guess there was a good reason that GE phased out this style after only a few years in production.   I have never really understood how this burner works but it seems that regardless of the initial setting, the element will get fully powered up then the thermostatic element will cycle it off and on again to maintain heat.  I am puzzled by the fact that the burner seems to use both 120v and 240v power which is not the case on the typical 'infinite heat' style burner switch.   

Whatever power it uses, this unit has been terrific for candy-making!  It seems to have just the right slow boil that I need for my 'boiled' cake icings and the only way I can make fudge that turns out is when it's cooked on this burner!

As for the griddle, it sounds like it may not be getting full power.  There may be a bad connection somewhere - I'd suggest checking the receptacle for the griddle unit.  However, I have never owned a range like this with the automatic griddle, so this is simply my best guess. 

My Automatic Calrod is part of the one-piece stainless counter in a 1956 GE Wonder Kitchen.  

Turn all elements on hi and they should get red hot fairly evenly after just a few minutes.

Then go to the next lower heat and only one coil will stay RH.

The most common problem on an older GE range like this are broken wires where they attach to the element, so if the elements do not pass the test look for broken wires.

Generally if a range like this has been well cared for and used properly the surface elements will usually last the life of the range, from your picture I would be surprised if more than is bad if that.

John L.

Hi Tim, The wattage is determined by the element, just like a light bulb where you use a 60 watt or a 100 watt bulb in the same fixture.

When the range was built they used higher watt elements on the front burners for greater speed which is probably where the phase [ now you are cooking on the front burner ] probably came from.

For replacement elements GE only sells 2350 watt for both elements, this was done more than 40 years ago.

The element for the automatic burner is unique and not interchangeable with regular 6" elements. [ because of the automatic temperature on the automatic element it was hard to overheat this element and ruin it, I have never seen a bad 6" AE.

These are wonderful ranges to cook on and easy to keep clean, this range is far better than any gas range you will ever find on both these points.

The 5 heat push-button burner controls are simple to use, just remember Hi = 100% heat the next step down is 50% then 35% then 15% and finally 5% power. You basically only the high heat to boil water, you usually use settings 2&3 for frying once you get the feel for it it is far easier than constantly looking under the pot and trying to guess what flame size will keep something cooking.

I have been using a GE cook-top with this control system on it for over 35years and have never been disappointed with the results or its ease of use.

John L.