Thank you everyone for your repplies. Based on the very useful information you provided, I'm giving it a shot. BTW, this is partly a repost of my last message from my previous thread, plus questions I need help with.
The hole is on the side wall right at the bottom of the tub. I realize the this makes it more prone to failure so I'll compensate with redundancy/overkill. I'll try patching both sides--in and out--but I'm having trouble getting the inner tub out.
As far as the patch goes, here's my approach:
- clean / scrub & sand area 2-1/2" around hole
- use Loctite Plastics Bonding System to glue/hold the pieces in their place
- glue a piece of aluminum mesh (sold for repairing drywall) on top of the repair with a generous coat of J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive--extending 1" all around
- cover all with a generous coat of JB WaterWeld extending 1" around the JB weld patch
- seal the edges of the WaterWeld patch
I have a couple more questions for all you repair masters:
1-Do you know what type of plastic are these tubs made of?
2-The spanner nut is not budging even with the spanner wrench. Is there a technique or method to get it moving? I don't have much room for hammering the wrench.
3-What do you suggest I use to seal the edge of the WaterWeld patch? Gorilla glue? Silicone?
Of course, feel free to critique my approach if there is a better way.
To end, see below links to a couple of the glues I'm planning to use.
I may be wrong, but I am pretty sure that epoxy adhesives (like the J-B Weld you refer to) do not stick to polypropylene and other "soft" and "oily" plastics (also polyethylene) and generally washer tubs are made of polypropylene.
If you want the epoxy to work, you have to first apply a layer of a cyanoacrylate using a proper primer like the one in your message. Then the epoxy will stick to the cyanoacrylate.
Sanding greatly increases the adhesion of the cyanoacrylate, the rougher the surface, the better the adhesion.