Thread Number: 87033  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
GE IDA 421L Automatic Dryer
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Post# 1116021   4/30/2021 at 21:51 (1,089 days old) by mt999999 (East Liverpool, Oh)        

Hello all!

I posted here once some time ago about this unit. I've been using it regularly since I picked it up a couple years ago. I finally decided to open up the back and clean it out. It's been drying a bit slower, likely due to a lot of lint build up. While I was in here, it looks like the belt on the motor is just about shot... it's de-laminating. I'm wondering where, if anywhere, I should lubricate this while I'm in here, and what kind of lubrication would be best. Any tips on where to find a belt?

In one photo, I took a close up of the shaft coming off of the motor... should that round port be oiled, or does this motor not require lubrication? I have white lithium grease in a spray can as well for the mechanics and pulleys, if that's the correct thing to use on this unit. I had to de-gunk and de-lint quite a bit back here before the photos... the motor and wires/terminals were totally coated with fluff.

One additional question; it doesn't appear that the HI/LO switch does anything. Upon further inspection, it appears that the switch broke some time ago (as pictured), and I think they hot-wired both terminals to the one side of the switch like a junction (unless I'm looking at it wrong)... basically, I think they by-passed the switch so the unit is always on "high" heat. Can replacement switches be found to fit into here?

Thanks everyone!


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Post# 1116043 , Reply# 1   5/1/2021 at 07:51 (1,089 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Neat Old 1954-5 GE Dryer

combo52's profile picture

You can probably get a new belt either at an old hardware store or on line.

 

The GE motor on your dryer is newer than the machine, so it was likely replaced at some time, I would not worry about oiling this motor they were very good motors.

 

You can use the white lithium grease on the shaft of the spoked pulley and its sliding shaft. You can also look at the top of the main drum bearing tube and see if there is an oil hole and add light oil to it if there is one.

 

The Hi-Low temperature Sw does look to be by-passed, it basically reduced the heat input by switching more or less of the heating element in the circuit, it is probably not that important the dryer will still get just as hot on either setting.

 

John L.


Post# 1116049 , Reply# 2   5/1/2021 at 10:01 (1,089 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
The 3rd photo in the batch apparently didn't upload properly and presents a blockage to scrolling through them.  I've downloaded the 5 working photos and placed them into this reply to facilitate scrolling.


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Post# 1116080 , Reply# 3   5/1/2021 at 16:35 (1,089 days old) by mt999999 (East Liverpool, Oh)        

Thank you for correcting the photos! I've uploaded the failed photo again. It was just the schematics on the back as well as the sticker mentioning the motor replacement. I attached a picture of the front of the unit as well.

I picked this unit up for scrap years ago for free, but a new screw-in 15A fuse made it work again! What a heavy monster! I can't seem to find much of any info for this unit on-line... I guess they are getting rare.

Would it be particularly imperative to replace a belt that's splitting like this one, to performance or otherwise, or should I not worry about it until it breaks? The drum seems to spine fine. I plan to hang a line out this summer anyway.

Basically with the switch, I can't turn it down to low heat as it is now. Would anyone think it be safe to modify a modern light switch into it for low/high, if it fits?

I'll check the drum bearing for a spot to be greased. Thanks!


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