Thread Number: 87302  /  Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
Kitchenaid/Hobart KD-12P Gasket
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Post# 1118808   5/30/2021 at 18:14 (1,054 days old) by Frecklpwr (CA)        

Hi knowledgeable people. I am installing a 1959 Kitchenaid/Hobart KD-12P dishwasher and the only thing not functioning is the door gasket. I have checked antique appliances’ website for a replacement gasket. At first glance of their inventory, I don’t see a match but I have messaged the owner. For those of you who own one, what have you done for gasket repair?

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Post# 1118812 , Reply# 1   5/30/2021 at 19:03 (1,054 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
All is not lost!

You can still get a door gasket for your machine that actually fit the larger door on the 15 thru 17 series machines. It will need to be shortened but will fit perfectly for you.

Call your local Hobart office and ask for part number 00-121030-00002 list is 33.92.
I highly recommend that you install a retaining clip at every screw location to keep the gasket aligned properly. They are in bags of 10 @ 2.59 each. Part number is 00-24677,

Under no circumstances tell whoever you speak to that you want the gasket and clips for a Kitchenaid machine. In most cases, the majority of Hobart employees don't even know that Kitchenaid was once part of the Hobart family. After all, Hobart sold it to Whirlpool in 1986.

If they ask, tell them it is for a WM-1 dishwasher . Tell them the serial Plate is gone so they don't ask for a serial number.

That should get you going for a few more decades.
Steve


Post# 1118818 , Reply# 2   5/30/2021 at 20:05 (1,054 days old) by Frecklpwr (CA)        

You are an amazing font of the info I needed. I am eternally grateful. I will follow your instructions to the letter and report back.

Post# 1118903 , Reply# 3   5/31/2021 at 18:05 (1,053 days old) by Frecklpwr (CA)        

Do you know how to anchor the machine down? I am not seeing the normal anchoring brackets or pre-drilled holes I would expect. Is there something I should add to brace the machine?

Thanks!


Post# 1118944 , Reply# 4   6/1/2021 at 06:43 (1,052 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Top Anchors.

There should be 2 holes near the top of the machine on the left and right sides that should accommodate small "L" brackets that you can screw into your countertop. You may have to remove the front cover to expose the screw holea.

if not, you should be able to find holes in the bottom frame that you can screw down into your floor.
It has been over 30 years since I messed with one of these machines so the memories are fading. LOL


Post# 1118996 , Reply# 5   6/1/2021 at 18:44 (1,052 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
KD-12 DW Door Seal

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What is wrong with the door seal, It looks great in your picture.

 

Those old KAs are so heavy they don't tip easily, if you counter-top is strong you can crank it up against the bottom of the CT using the leveling feet, you can also screw it to the floor as Steve suggested.

 

John L.


Post# 1119386 , Reply# 6   6/5/2021 at 13:28 (1,048 days old) by Frecklpwr (CA)        

The gasket seems like it should work. This machine is new old stock and has never been used. It is a bit compressed and stiff, so it is leaking at the hinges once the wash arm engages. I think it is just not as flexible as it ought to be. I see the holes on the top front for anchoring and will look for some brackets to anchor it. Our space is a little too short for the washer, so rather than rip up the flooring beneath it to make space, we switched out the base for a custom-built shorter base and kickplate. I am stalking the UP man today, as he is supposed to bring my gasket and clips today. I can’t wait to fire this baby up and get her through her first cycle in 62 years! Thanks, again!

Post# 1119403 , Reply# 7   6/5/2021 at 16:07 (1,048 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
KA DW Gasket For A KD-12

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I would try to get it to work with the original gasket if possible, you can try softening the gasket with a heat gun and maybe try inserting some stiff tubing inside of the gasket near the ends.

 

It may also stop leaking after a few runs, it also is much less likely to leak at the corners with dishes in the machine, a lot of vintage DWs will leak with no dishes in them.

 

If you do get an exact replacement in great condition go ahead and try it but try to save the original just in case the new one does not work.

 

Good Luck with this cool DW, I wish I could see its maiden run with a load of dirty dishes.

 

John L.


Post# 1119415 , Reply# 8   6/5/2021 at 19:31 (1,048 days old) by Frecklpwr (CA)        

So, I got the parts recommended and the gasket is completely different from the original. I decided to try adding the retainer clips on the original. That seems to have made the gasket stand more proud. I added dishes and she is not leaking. Hurray! However, as the cycle progressed to the dryer, the fan motor is not running. Just a hot coil and no fan action. My handyman hubby is not familiar with that type of motor, although we can confirm that it turns and is not locked up from age. Any tips on the fan? A dryer is t super important to me, so we may just disconnect it altogether if there is t an easy fix. Thank you all for the help!

Post# 1119425 , Reply# 9   6/5/2021 at 20:47 (1,048 days old) by Frecklpwr (CA)        

Update: we pulled out the fan assembly. The bushing had seized to the shaft and it was spinning inside the housing. We lubricated it and it is now running. The heating element is so hot it makes me very nervous. We may try adding a 20 Amp Diode to reduce the wattage and see if that feels safer and like I am not going to melt my drain line that passes a couple inches by it. Thanks!

Post# 1119433 , Reply# 10   6/5/2021 at 22:06 (1,048 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
KA KD-12 dryer assembly

combo52's profile picture

If you got the fan running there is not much danger from a 1000 watt heater, it will glow slightly red hot when drying.

 

If the drain line is below the heater assembly it should be ok, otherwise I would reposition it or add a metal heat shield.

 

John L.



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