Thread Number: 87558
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
POD 6-24-2021 GE "Programmed" Washer |
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Post# 1121221 , Reply# 1   6/24/2021 at 07:54 (1,008 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Wool will felt/shrink if temps go too quickly from one extreme to the other. That is taking something from hot or boiling water (yes you can boil wool), and immersing it into cold or very water.
Going from warm (say 100 F) to tap cold at around 86 F shouldn't cause that much of an issue. Since this cycle must cope with both wool and silk a cold water rinse would mean a bit less creasing for latter fiber, thus less ironing I shouldn't wonder. All of my European front loaders have option for warm or cold water (tap or heated) for wash, but rinses are always tap cold. Never bother with heated washes for woolens unless tap water is extremely cold. Since normally wash woolens before they are put away for warmer weather, by time spring or summer arrive tap water is at 86 F or even a bit above. Add to above today's modern wool washing products work quite well in all but most frigid water. |
Post# 1121225 , Reply# 2   6/24/2021 at 08:33 (1,008 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)   |   | |
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Somewhat akward indeed. If they had changed to cold rinses only it would make sense. But there are still warm rinses for cotton on that machine. With only one rinse after the hot wash that would still make a bit of a warm rinse. I guess most people would use the cottons cycles more often than the wool one, so if warm water saving was an issue they had better changed the cottons rinses to cold.
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Post# 1121232 , Reply# 3   6/24/2021 at 09:05 (1,008 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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In Atlanta, our tap cold water was always painfully frigid because it came out of a deep reservoir. Thanks to John finding me a tempering valve at a Habitat for Humanity thrift store, I can supply my cold rinse only machines with 75-80F cold water year round. |
Post# 1121235 , Reply# 4   6/24/2021 at 11:05 (1,008 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Since my 1963 RCA Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII has been in service for the past few weeks, I used the Wash N Wear cycle to wash some synthetic clothing in it and was thoroughly happy with the results since everything wasn’t wrinkled and was like new. My Whirlpool does only cold rinses on the Wash N Wear cycle and does the multiple cool downs to not set in wrinkles.
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Post# 1121299 , Reply# 6   6/24/2021 at 21:57 (1,008 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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In automatic washing machines sold in USA were largely a legacy from when soap was still being used by many housewives and others for laundry. That went on well into 1950's and even 1960's, some just liked what they liked. Also many were reluctant to give up the old ways and felt warm (if not hot) rinses gave better results.
Then came energy crisis of 1970's and warm rinse option began vanishing from automatic washing machines. There was also a loud and persistent drum beat from consumer groups (such as Consumer Reports) and anyone else advising Madame on laundry that cold water gave same results as rinsing in warm water. Of course by 1980's soap had largely (some would say finally) vanished from wash day. Soon even Ivory Snow soap powder switched over to being a detergent product. All this being said case for rinsing in warm water regardless of soap or detergent being used for washing does have good support. Warm water rinses means laundry emerges "warm" thus dryers don't have to work hard at start to overcome "cold" laundry. Consumer Reports acknowledged this but stated the amount of energy used was still less than heating water for "warm" rinses. Because warm water allows textile fibers (natural not man made), to remain open some feel it does provide better rinse results. Again this is regardless of soap or detergent being used for laundering. Warm rinses allows better extraction of water which less residual moisture retention. Industrial/commercial laundries rarely rinse in cold water, but a "split" of 100 F or maybe low as 86 F. Finally there is fact certain fabric softeners/conditioners just dissolve better in warmer water. The SQ washers at local laundromat use "split" hot and cold water for final rinse. Hot water goes into fabric softener dispenser, but machine fills otherwise with cold. CLICK HERE TO GO TO Launderess's LINK |
Post# 1121300 , Reply# 7   6/24/2021 at 22:05 (1,008 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Oh and if anyone was wondering why someone would boil woolen garments or bedding such as blankets, in a word "lice".
That was one reason why people boiled washing of cottons, linens and wool was that absent modern chemicals it was one sure way to rid things of lice and their eggs. Lice will get themselves deep into seams of garments to live and lay eggs. Meaning it can be tough to get at one or both. Very hot or boil washing will do the job. Ironing will add a measure of safety, and of course once they came along tumble dryers using high enough heat setting. CLICK HERE TO GO TO Launderess's LINK |
Post# 1121345 , Reply# 9   6/25/2021 at 09:24 (1,007 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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many complain of Filter-Flo washers using an excessive amount of water to fill that outter tub....
but there is no mention of the exclusive 'Wash N' Wear' cycle introduced in the 1958 RCA WHIRLPOOL IMPERIAL MARK XII washer's 'Cool Down' which consisted of 6 partial drain and refills, not including the fill for Wash and Rinse, and added Spin spray rinses.... available in Decorator Colors..... Better Home Appliances...For Better Homes you have to think back, Warm rinses was more of an issue from people with wringer washers....in the rinse tubs, there was no agitation, so the plunging of clothing was done by hand, and more of a relief for your hands with warmer temps versus chilled cold water....even with the automatics, pulling clothing from the machine after the last spin, it just felt better to remove warmed clothing versus if they were chilled, and somewhat stiff... |
Post# 1121359 , Reply# 10   6/25/2021 at 11:45 (1,007 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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And if they were warm, they were more flexible and easier to shake out for hanging to dry. |
Post# 1121365 , Reply# 11   6/25/2021 at 12:55 (1,007 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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One thing I forgot to mention is the cool down fills on the Wash N Wear cycle are slower than molasses same thing with all the cold fills on my 1963 RCA Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII and no the screens on the inlet valve aren’t clogged and I guess that’s how it works so I’ll just leave it alone for now.
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Post# 1121366 , Reply# 12   6/25/2021 at 13:29 (1,007 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 1121374 , Reply# 13   6/25/2021 at 14:44 (1,007 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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It appears to be original as far as I can tell. Only repairs that were done to it was the belt and pump were replaced sometime in the early 2000’s and of course the fan belt on the dryer was replaced at one point in time was well and those were the only repairs I could tell there were done it when 8 brought it home on July 25th 2020.
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Post# 1121483 , Reply# 14   6/26/2021 at 18:03 (1,006 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Sean your WP should take only 3-4 minutes to fill the tub completely on the cold setting, if it takes much longer you have a bad cold water valve diaphragm.
Have you replaced it ?, It is also best to replace all three VDs at the same time to prevent other problems including flooding from valves that do not shut off.
John L. |
Post# 1121501 , Reply# 15   6/26/2021 at 23:47 (1,006 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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