Thread Number: 87972
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag LA612 & LA712 compatible parts? |
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Post# 1125453 , Reply# 1   8/9/2021 at 22:20 (983 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Is this common for washer and dryer sets manufactured 2 years apart?
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Post# 1125520 , Reply# 4   8/11/2021 at 00:27 (982 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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You should hook up the 712 washer, use it, and become familiar with its operations before tearing it down and rebuilding. This way you'll at least have a marginal idea if something is off after the rebuild. Also, hook up the dryer and experience beauty of electronic control drying. No guess work of time dried models or the imprecise thermostatically controlled auto dry feature. If the electronics and mechanicals are functioning correctly, your clothes will be precisely dried, not damp or crispy. |
Post# 1125524 , Reply# 5   8/11/2021 at 00:52 (982 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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My 1988 LDG486 dryer repair, before and after. Some of the bushings are self lubricating! I'm familiar with the dryer now but the washer seems a little more challenging. |
Post# 1125527 , Reply# 6   8/11/2021 at 01:17 (982 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 1125528 , Reply# 7   8/11/2021 at 02:23 (982 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1125587 , Reply# 11   8/11/2021 at 22:58 (981 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The cup on top of the agitator is a liquid fabric softener dispenser. It’s thrown out of the cup through the slots via centrifugal force during the 1st spin (after the wash period) & is held up in the filter cartridge housing until spin stops for the rinse fill, at which moment it drains down the agitator into the tub. The residue is not oil, it’s years of accumulated softener residue and/or detergent from sloppy pouring and laundry dirt that fell into it. The previous user never cleaned the cup. He/She also never pulled the filter out to clean it, which should be done after every load.
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Post# 1125589 , Reply# 12   8/12/2021 at 01:46 (981 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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You picked a great candidate in excellent condition for restoration. Run it a few times to get the feel of the machine then get to work on restoring it. Those damper pads are really dry and you don't want to use it much until those are replaced and nicely lubed up or you'll be on the lookout for another aluminum damper, which are getting tricky to find. |
Post# 1125591 , Reply# 13   8/12/2021 at 03:21 (981 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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@DADoES Thanks for the help. It's a pitman. |
Post# 1125653 , Reply# 16   8/12/2021 at 17:58 (980 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1125663 , Reply# 17   8/12/2021 at 19:02 (980 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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@qsd-dan Thanks. You typically use the High Temp Adhesive Tube? Part Number: WPY055980 (AP6024142) Damper pads will soon be out of production? More and more parts are going out of production? |
Post# 1125664 , Reply# 18   8/12/2021 at 19:14 (980 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Damper pads will soon be out of production? More and more parts are going out of production? |
Post# 1132229 , Reply# 19   10/28/2021 at 21:08 (903 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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Is there a stainless steel inner basket tub and outer tub that'll fit or kinda fit? |
Post# 1132233 , Reply# 20   10/28/2021 at 22:05 (903 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1132426 , Reply# 21   10/31/2021 at 15:15 (900 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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Almost got it completely cleaned. I couldn't get the female spline hole entirely clean |
Post# 1132432 , Reply# 22   10/31/2021 at 16:24 (900 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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I guess I could repair the outer drum by brazing or MIG welding. The transmission shaft has some rust damage. |
Post# 1132506 , Reply# 24   11/2/2021 at 01:43 (899 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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@Good-Shepherd Thanks! The upper aluminum trans threads seems a little messed up. What's that vertical notch passing through the threaded area for? The parts diagram says there several trans models? |
Post# 1132551 , Reply# 25   11/2/2021 at 20:11 (898 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Large tub trans is shorter than the standard tub, but top half #2-813 is the same on both. |
Post# 1132586 , Reply# 26   11/3/2021 at 11:00 (897 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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I love threads like this.
Not much to offer, except - the only part I've ever seen fail which was hard to find on Maytags of that era was the timer. As to the electronic drying controls, not that impressed. Definitely the weakest design of an otherwise outstandingly well made laundry system. I'd not bother. |
Post# 1160170 , Reply# 28   9/22/2022 at 21:57 (574 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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How do I look up part details and part numbers? The part numbers on the microfiche diagrams aren't the same as the listed part numbers below the diagrams. CLICK HERE TO GO TO Chef's LINK
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Post# 1160235 , Reply# 29   9/23/2022 at 16:32 (573 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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I don't see this brass washer on the diagram. |
Post# 1160240 , Reply# 30   9/23/2022 at 17:14 (573 days old) by Qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1160274 , Reply# 31   9/24/2022 at 02:35 (573 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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Thanks! The brass washer serves no important purpose? I'm installing a new shaft. What's the upper shaft bearing? |
Post# 1160279 , Reply# 32   9/24/2022 at 07:40 (572 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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"What's the upper shaft bearing?"
There's an upper and lower brass sleeve bearing that the shaft rides on. When the upper seal goes, water makes its way down the shaft and contaminates the upper sleeve bearing. Water intrusion wipes the oil away and causes metal to metal contact between the shaft and brass bearing, destroying it. For some odd reason, Maytag made every single part available except those brass sleeve bearings. The sleeve bearing pops right out but you'll have to find a machine shop that will fabricate a new one. Tolerances here are very tight and critical. When the bearing is installed, the tolerances close up a bit. "The brass washer serves no important purpose?" The brass washer is located in the upper cone inside the A4298 seal. You can see it in this picture below. It's placed between the spring and outer rubber mold. It will be there when you purchase a new seal.
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Post# 1160411 , Reply# 33   9/25/2022 at 21:21 (571 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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Thanks! Oh that bearing! I bought a mounting stem, part # WP-6-2095720. It seems to be the correct part number but it's a different design. It doesn't use the washer, clip and a spring loaded seal. The spring loaded seal looks like a good design. |
Post# 1160413 , Reply# 34   9/25/2022 at 21:41 (571 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Maytag switched to the inferior triple lip seal around 1994. You can use a new A4298 seal under the mounting stem as added protection (small cone face down, like the previous design), just don't reuse the original washer and (obviously) the clip. Also, be sure to remove the bass washer that usually gets left on the shaft from the previous A4298 seal.
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Post# 1160422 , Reply# 35   9/25/2022 at 22:36 (571 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The new triple lips sealed is actually superior to the old seal that Maytag used for decades. Problem was you need a very good agitator shaft and Maytag did not put a stainless steel sleeve on the shaft for the new type seal to be most effective.
I would not try putting the old type seal underneath the lip type seal I saw one a while ago where someone did that and it pushed the lip seal out and the whole thing failed very suddenly and completely. You can really see the mineral buildup in that outer tub on your machine that you’re rebuilding, this is from hard water and using way too little detergent or cheap detergent, it’s also ruins the seal which is why the shaft is in such bad shape on that washer. If in doubt when washing clothing always use more detergent make sure the wash water is very slippery and your fingers. John L |
Post# 1160432 , Reply# 36   9/26/2022 at 07:45 (570 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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"The new triple lip sealed is actually superior"
Oh really, why were these failing like crazy when installed on a brand new agitator shaft back in the 90's? This is a crap design, you're the ONLY repairmen that has had a nice thing to say about them without using an endless stream of 4 letter words. I've been putting the old style A4298 seal under the new mounting stem for 14 years on all of my machines without any problems. My current daily driver has had one for 14 years and counting. I will be replacing it next year because I know the triple lip seal is probably dead and relying on the A4298 seal to keep water at bay. |
Post# 1160454 , Reply# 37   9/26/2022 at 17:32 (570 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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Thanks. Use a new A4298 seal under the mounting stem like this?
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Post# 1160460 , Reply# 38   9/26/2022 at 18:46 (570 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1160468 , Reply# 39   9/26/2022 at 20:42 (570 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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I have never seen a triple lip Maytag agitator shaft seal start to leak unless the agitator shaft was in bad condition.
Maytag started having a lot more center seal leaks in the mid 80s, they cheapened the seal assembly by eliminating the stainless steel machined ring and put a piece of plastic in there that was the first big problem.
The second big problem was the upper edge of the tub bearing would rust and then the seal would get stuck on that and wouldn’t move up and down and caused leaks.
A triple lip seal is superior to the old compression seal that Maytag used for years. Every washing machine in the world almost uses lip type seals as well as car engines etc. etc.
Putting the old fashion seal under the triple lips sealed probably won’t hurt anything it won’t do any good however… It was not meant to have pressure up on the bottom of it I did see one that failed where someone had done that.
I can’t imagine that you’re taking a machine apart Dan that you just rebuilt 15 years ago it should last far longer than that washing clothes for one person.
When I rebuilt my 71 lady Kenmore in 1978 it lasted over 35 years without a single failure of any consequence , Maytag should do at least as well.
John L |
Post# 1160548 , Reply# 40   9/28/2022 at 02:04 (569 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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Like this?
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Post# 1160556 , Reply# 41   9/28/2022 at 08:40 (568 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1161290 , Reply# 42   10/7/2022 at 15:41 (559 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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Like this?
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Post# 1161291 , Reply# 43   10/7/2022 at 16:15 (559 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1161633 , Reply# 44   10/12/2022 at 16:41 (554 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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Are all the Pitman transmissions compatible and can interchange parts? |