Thread Number: 87972  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag LA612 & LA712 compatible parts?
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Post# 1125451   8/9/2021 at 21:30 (483 days old) by Chef (California)        

I have a 1984 LA612 washer and a 1988 LDG486 dryer.
The LA612 agitator is oscillating at only 90 degrees.

I just picked up a washer/dryer set, 1988 LA712 washer and 1986 LDG712.

Is this common for washer and dryer sets manufactured 2 years apart?

This forum seems to be dedicated for washers only? Both LA712 and LDG712 exterior finish is much worse than my LA612 washer and LDG486 dryer.

Are all the parts interchangeable? The LA712 has more functions and the LDG712 has electronic dryer control which is better?

I'll try and rebuild the Pitman tranny and add a magnetic drain plug at the bottom and it looks a little tight but I'll add a filler plug at the top.
I'll check how well the tranny is balanced.

I read in one of these forums, after June 1986 is when they changed the pitman tranny o-ring design?

I thinking of using Motul synthetic gear oil.


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Post# 1125453 , Reply# 1   8/9/2021 at 22:20 (483 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

Is this common for washer and dryer sets manufactured 2 years apart?

Sometimes, usually TOL washers moved faster than TOL dryers.


This forum seems to be dedicated for washers only?

Nope, we love our dryers too.


Are all the parts interchangeable?

Yes, everything is interchangeable on the washers except for the console face, timers, wiring harness, and some of the switches. Even the pitman/orbital transmission will swap either way. Not sure if the LDG486 is a sensor dryer, I'd have to look that up. I'm guess that's a no, so that will limit you on some of the specific internals but more than 90% of the parts will swap over. The cabinets will swap, no problem there.

I'll try and rebuild the Pitman tranny and add a magnetic drain plug at the bottom and it looks a little tight but I'll add a filler plug at the top.
I'll check how well the tranny is balanced.

Not really worth the effort. You shouldn't need to change the oil for the next 30+ years.

I read in one of these forums, after June 1986 is when they changed the pitman tranny o-ring design?

Correct, they went from the o-ring design to a lip seal at the bottom of the transmission tube. The lip seal (part# 207843) can easily be replaced without the special tool.

I thinking of using Motul synthetic gear oil.

That's a GL-5 gear oil which may attack the yellow metals inside the transmission. I recommend Royal Purple 75/90 gear oil. If you live in the northern area of California where it gets cold and have the washer inside the garage, use Redline MT-90.


Post# 1125501 , Reply# 2   8/10/2021 at 16:11 (482 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
add a magnetic drain plug at the bottom

Total waste of time. The trans isn't an internal combustion engine.

GL-4 is the recommended lube or just pick up a bottle of Maytag transmission oil, probably cost about the same or less.

Not even sure what the problem is that you need to open up the trans?

Also, with some Bon-Ami and a light automotive polishing compound vintage Maytag's clean up surprisingly well with a little elbow grease. Those machines look like they could clean up nicely.


Post# 1125519 , Reply# 3   8/11/2021 at 00:00 (482 days old) by Chef (California)        
What is a Subject Drift?

Thanks so much for all the great info and help. So typically every 30 years the tranny oil needs changing and should last another 30 years? Or typically after 30 years, there's worn out parts that need attention?
My LA612 is about 33 years old.

Thanks for whoever made this platform and maintains it. If it wasnít for this forum platform, I don't think I would've kept my LA612 and purchased a LA712 set.

My 1988 LDG486 dryer does not have the Electronic Dry Control. Is possible to transfer the LDG712 dryer dashboard and components and sensors to my LDG486?
Is the LDG712 Electronic Dry Control something worth having?

My LA612 agitator is oscillating at about only 90 degrees. I don't know what's causing the 90 degrees vs 180. I've read on this forum, the Pitman is supposed to oscillate at 180 degrees?

When I have the Pitman apart, I'll check for anything that needs rebuilding because I don't want to take the tranny out again, ever again if possible lol
If parts for the Pitman aren't available, maybe I can make it and a few extra to help some Pitman owners.

If changing the tranny oil every 1-3 years can eliminate or minimize gears and bushing wear in the tranny, I'll fabricate something. Reason is, Pitman parts are out of production?
Because of what I've read on this forum, I decided to go with rebuilding my Pitman vs a new Orbital purchase.


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Post# 1125520 , Reply# 4   8/11/2021 at 00:27 (482 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

You should hook up the 712 washer, use it, and become familiar with its operations before tearing it down and rebuilding. This way you'll at least have a marginal idea if something is off after the rebuild. Also, hook up the dryer and experience beauty of electronic control drying. No guess work of time dried models or the imprecise thermostatically controlled auto dry feature. If the electronics and mechanicals are functioning correctly, your clothes will be precisely dried, not damp or crispy.


Post# 1125524 , Reply# 5   8/11/2021 at 00:52 (482 days old) by Chef (California)        
1988 LDG dryer repair :-)

My 1988 LDG486 dryer repair, before and after. Some of the bushings are self lubricating! I'm familiar with the dryer now but the washer seems a little more challenging.

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Post# 1125527 , Reply# 6   8/11/2021 at 01:17 (482 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

My LA612 agitator is oscillating at about only 90 degrees.
It has a pitman transmission?† Or is it orbital?


Post# 1125528 , Reply# 7   8/11/2021 at 02:23 (482 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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Great job on the 486! The 712 is the same except a few extra thermostats on the blower housing and a sensor strip on the front bulkhead. The rest of the magic happens behind the control panel.


Post# 1125556 , Reply# 8   8/11/2021 at 14:00 (481 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
changing the tranny oil every 1-3 years

Gear wear is an not issue with the Pitman transmission.

Worn, rusted and pitted agitator shafts are the problem from water intrusion though a leaking stem seal.

The original trans oil does get thick from age however (decades not years) and replacing it can improve sluggish agitation.


Post# 1125582 , Reply# 9   8/11/2021 at 20:28 (481 days old) by Chef (California)        
LA712 washer

The outside cabinet is banged up a little with a crude spray can paint job but the inside looks really really clean! As qsd-dan mentioned to just hook it and try it out. That's exactly what I'll do. Thanks again qsd-dan! While I'm test driving the LA712 this beautiful machine, I'll crack open the LA612 tranny.

The 2 photos of the agitator has a gold colored stain coming from port holes. Is this of any concern? Oil or grease leaking?

By looking at the printed belt info photo, do we know if it's the original belt? It says B Maytag 2-11124-4B 3*D


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Post# 1125583 , Reply# 10   8/11/2021 at 21:09 (481 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
gold colored stain coming from port holes.

The inside of that washer is almost brand new, just a little dusty. California washer.

However, the damper pads look bone dry, I would lube them first thing before they detach and tear up the damper.

Yes, thats the original belt, don't replace it unless absolutely necessary, the new ones are not the same quality.

The stain is probably from the dirty lint filter.






Post# 1125587 , Reply# 11   8/11/2021 at 22:58 (481 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
The cup on top of the agitator is a liquid fabric softener dispenser. Itís thrown out of the cup through the slots via centrifugal force during the 1st spin (after the wash period) & is held up in the filter cartridge housing until spin stops for the rinse fill, at which moment it drains down the agitator into the tub. The residue is not oil, itís years of accumulated softener residue and/or detergent from sloppy pouring and laundry dirt that fell into it. The previous user never cleaned the cup. He/She also never pulled the filter out to clean it, which should be done after every load.

Post# 1125589 , Reply# 12   8/12/2021 at 01:46 (481 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

You picked a great candidate in excellent condition for restoration. Run it a few times to get the feel of the machine then get to work on restoring it. Those damper pads are really dry and you don't want to use it much until those are replaced and nicely lubed up or you'll be on the lookout for another aluminum damper, which are getting tricky to find.


Post# 1125591 , Reply# 13   8/12/2021 at 03:21 (480 days old) by Chef (California)        
It has a pitman transmission? Or is it orbital?

@DADoES

Thanks for the help. It's a pitman.


Post# 1125598 , Reply# 14   8/12/2021 at 06:02 (480 days old) by Chef (California)        
@qsd-dan, DADoES and Good-Shepherd

@qsd-dan
Thanks! I'll open it up and look for these things you mentioned. I think the 712 dryer needs a little work.
And thanks for the info about the damper pads and all the info about the transmission and proper oils.

@DADoES
Thanks for the info about the agitator and fabric softener dispenser.
Transmission is a pitman.

@Good-Shepherd
Thanks for all the info about the pitman, damper pads, belts and stain on agitator. That's too bad about the belts nowadays, they don't make them like they used to! I was going to transfer the newly installed belts from my 612 to the 712 but I'll leave the old original belts on the 712 as you recommended.

Question for everyone
While I'm changing the damper pads, I might as well change the transmission oil and all bearings on the shaft?

I guess I should change the stem seal as the Good-Shepherd mentioned that can allow water intrusion through a leaking stem seal that can do some damage? Or better yet, change all the seals?


Post# 1125617 , Reply# 15   8/12/2021 at 10:43 (480 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
I'm changing the damper pads

If the damper pads are intact and attached lubing them with silicone grease should be enough. There is an archived thread on how to lube them.

I don't know why you're determined to change the trans oil, thats a big messy job.

The agitator shaft it what gets damaged, it should be smooth with no rust or pitting so the new stem seal doesn't leak.

You should use the search feature to look up threads on the items you want to service.



Post# 1125653 , Reply# 16   8/12/2021 at 17:58 (480 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

The white stuff near the aluminum damper is the pads shedding due to friction. Replace them, they are worn. These will soon be obsoleted so buy them now while you still can.


Post# 1125663 , Reply# 17   8/12/2021 at 19:02 (480 days old) by Chef (California)        
Damper pads

@qsd-dan Thanks. You typically use the High Temp Adhesive Tube?
Part Number: WPY055980 (AP6024142)

Damper pads will soon be out of production? More and more parts are going out of production?


Post# 1125664 , Reply# 18   8/12/2021 at 19:14 (480 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

Damper pads will soon be out of production? More and more parts are going out of production?
 
Whirlpool bought out Maytag in 2006 and immediately discontinued the production of this design. By law, Whirlpool only needed to keeps parts around for 10 years, which was 5 years ago. They have been lately obsoleting parts for these machines at an accelerated pace and greatly boosting the price of parts that are still lingering. If you want to restore this machine, now is the time to do it.


Post# 1132229 , Reply# 19   10/28/2021 at 21:08 (403 days old) by Chef (California)        

Is there a stainless steel inner basket tub and outer tub that'll fit or kinda fit?

Post# 1132233 , Reply# 20   10/28/2021 at 22:05 (403 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

If you can find an Australian Wilkins Servis model, the stainless steel inner tub is a direct fit. Good luck on that though.


Post# 1132426 , Reply# 21   10/31/2021 at 15:15 (400 days old) by Chef (California)        

Almost got it completely cleaned. I couldn't get the female spline hole entirely clean

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Post# 1132432 , Reply# 22   10/31/2021 at 16:24 (400 days old) by Chef (California)        

I guess I could repair the outer drum by brazing or MIG welding.

The transmission shaft has some rust damage.


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Post# 1132455 , Reply# 23   10/31/2021 at 21:28 (400 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
The transmission shaft has some rust damage.

Trans agitator shaft is shot, appears to be severe hard water damage.

Start looking for a donor trans from any large tub vintage Maytag up to 1989.

Or ask here, someone might have one they would be willing to part with.


Post# 1132506 , Reply# 24   11/2/2021 at 01:43 (399 days old) by Chef (California)        

@Good-Shepherd

Thanks! The upper aluminum trans threads seems a little messed up. What's that vertical notch passing through the threaded area for?
The parts diagram says there several trans models?


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Post# 1132551 , Reply# 25   11/2/2021 at 20:11 (398 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
diagram says there several trans models?

Large tub trans is shorter than the standard tub, but top half #2-813 is the same on both.



Post# 1132586 , Reply# 26   11/3/2021 at 11:00 (397 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
This is fun!

panthera's profile picture
I love threads like this.
Not much to offer, except - the only part I've ever seen fail which was hard to find on Maytags of that era was the timer.
As to the electronic drying controls, not that impressed. Definitely the weakest design of an otherwise outstandingly well made laundry system. I'd not bother.


Post# 1139144 , Reply# 27   1/12/2022 at 19:01 (327 days old) by Chef (California)        
problem from water intrusion though a leaking stem seal.

Happy New Year everyone!

Post# 1125556 , Reply# 8 8/11/2021 at 14:00 by Good-Shepherd
Worn, rusted and pitted agitator shafts are the problem from water intrusion though a leaking stem seal.

The leaking stem seal part is: A04298 Seal, Agitator Drive Shaft (A4298) or WP210690 Seal, Rubber (Replaces: 210690) or both?


Post# 1160170 , Reply# 28   9/22/2022 at 21:57 by Chef (California)        
Microfiche diagram part numbers

How do I look up part details and part numbers? The part numbers on the microfiche diagrams aren't the same as the listed part numbers below the diagrams.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Chef's LINK


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Post# 1160235 , Reply# 29   9/23/2022 at 16:32 by Chef (California)        

I don't see this brass washer on the diagram.

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Post# 1160240 , Reply# 30   9/23/2022 at 17:14 by Qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
The brass washer is from the A4298 seal. You can discard that. The agitator shaft is too far gone, you'll need another one. The upper shaft bearing is probably junk too.

Post# 1160274 , Reply# 31   9/24/2022 at 02:35 by Chef (California)        

Thanks! The brass washer serves no important purpose? I'm installing a new shaft. What's the upper shaft bearing?

Post# 1160279 , Reply# 32   9/24/2022 at 07:40 by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
"What's the upper shaft bearing?"

There's an upper and lower brass sleeve bearing that the shaft rides on. When the upper seal goes, water makes its way down the shaft and contaminates the upper sleeve bearing. Water intrusion wipes the oil away and causes metal to metal contact between the shaft and brass bearing, destroying it. For some odd reason, Maytag made every single part available except those brass sleeve bearings. The sleeve bearing pops right out but you'll have to find a machine shop that will fabricate a new one. Tolerances here are very tight and critical. When the bearing is installed, the tolerances close up a bit.

"The brass washer serves no important purpose?"

The brass washer is located in the upper cone inside the A4298 seal. You can see it in this picture below. It's placed between the spring and outer rubber mold. It will be there when you purchase a new seal.


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Post# 1160411 , Reply# 33   9/25/2022 at 21:21 by Chef (California)        

Thanks! Oh that bearing!

I bought a mounting stem, part # WP-6-2095720. It seems to be the correct part number but it's a different design. It doesn't use the washer, clip and a spring loaded seal. The spring loaded seal looks like a good design.


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Post# 1160413 , Reply# 34   9/25/2022 at 21:41 by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Maytag switched to the inferior triple lip seal around 1994. You can use a new A4298 seal under the mounting stem as added protection (small cone face down, like the previous design), just don't reuse the original washer and (obviously) the clip. Also, be sure to remove the bass washer that usually gets left on the shaft from the previous A4298 seal.


Post# 1160422 , Reply# 35   9/25/2022 at 22:36 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Maytag agitator shaft seals

combo52's profile picture
The new triple lips sealed is actually superior to the old seal that Maytag used for decades. Problem was you need a very good agitator shaft and Maytag did not put a stainless steel sleeve on the shaft for the new type seal to be most effective.

I would not try putting the old type seal underneath the lip type seal I saw one a while ago where someone did that and it pushed the lip seal out and the whole thing failed very suddenly and completely.

You can really see the mineral buildup in that outer tub on your machine that youíre rebuilding, this is from hard water and using way too little detergent or cheap detergent, itís also ruins the seal which is why the shaft is in such bad shape on that washer. If in doubt when washing clothing always use more detergent make sure the wash water is very slippery and your fingers.

John L


Post# 1160432 , Reply# 36   9/26/2022 at 07:45 by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
"The new triple lip sealed is actually superior"

Oh really, why were these failing like crazy when installed on a brand new agitator shaft back in the 90's? This is a crap design, you're the ONLY repairmen that has had a nice thing to say about them without using an endless stream of 4 letter words.

I've been putting the old style A4298 seal under the new mounting stem for 14 years on all of my machines without any problems. My current daily driver has had one for 14 years and counting. I will be replacing it next year because I know the triple lip seal is probably dead and relying on the A4298 seal to keep water at bay.


Post# 1160454 , Reply# 37   9/26/2022 at 17:32 by Chef (California)        

Thanks. Use a new A4298 seal under the mounting stem like this?

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Post# 1160460 , Reply# 38   9/26/2022 at 18:46 by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Slide the seal onto the agitator shaft, small end pointing down. Then install the mounting stem. You need to remove the agitator stop ring before installing the A4298 seal if you haven't already done that.

Post# 1160468 , Reply# 39   9/26/2022 at 20:42 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Maytag dependable care seal in mounting stem problems

combo52's profile picture

I have never seen a triple lip Maytag agitator shaft seal start to leak unless the agitator shaft was in bad condition.

 

Maytag started having a lot more center seal leaks in the mid 80s, they cheapened the seal assembly by eliminating the stainless steel machined ring and put a piece of plastic in there that was the first big problem.

 

The second big problem was the upper edge of the tub bearing would rust and then the seal would get stuck on that and wouldn’t move up and down and caused leaks.

 

A triple lip seal is superior to the old compression seal that Maytag used for years. Every washing machine in the world almost uses lip type seals as well as car engines etc. etc.

 

Putting the old fashion seal under the triple lips sealed probably won’t hurt anything it won’t do any good however… It was not meant to have pressure up on the bottom of it I did see one that failed where someone had done that.

 

 I can’t imagine that you’re taking a machine apart Dan that you just rebuilt 15 years ago it should last far longer than that washing clothes for one person.

 

When I rebuilt my 71 lady Kenmore in 1978 it lasted over 35 years without a single failure of any consequence , Maytag should do at least as well.

 

John L


Post# 1160548 , Reply# 40   9/28/2022 at 02:04 by Chef (California)        

Like this?

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Post# 1160556 , Reply# 41   9/28/2022 at 08:40 by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
The A4298 seal goes underneath the mounting stem. It's the very first item you install on the transmission shaft.

Post# 1161290 , Reply# 42   10/7/2022 at 15:41 by Chef (California)        

Like this?

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Post# 1161291 , Reply# 43   10/7/2022 at 16:15 by qsd-dan (West)        
Like this?

qsd-dan's profile picture
That's correct.

Post# 1161633 , Reply# 44   10/12/2022 at 16:41 by Chef (California)        

Are all the Pitman transmissions compatible and can interchange parts?


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