Thread Number: 88338  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
Launderess versus Miele W1070 The Continuing Saga
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 1128969   9/18/2021 at 01:54 (949 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Am posting this in "Imperial" since by all accounts my Miele W1070 was made sometime in 1990's, it now being 2021 that's certainly more than twenty years, closer to thirty actually. My god, how old does that make me? *LOL*

Any who just as one was resigned to never finding a solution to wonky timer/programmer issue, up pops something.

Was being sold as a dishwasher timer. But part numbers match that of my washer's timer/programmer. Called MieleUSA and after bit of muddle and then an argument (don't ask), parts department and tech support stated that part #02085001 is for Miele W1070 washer. Since any further probing only seemed to draw ire, left things at that.

After surrendering my pin money budget for week the thing arrived and now must get sorted.

Am still not 100% convinced this timer is for my washer. Wouldn't someone selling parts know what they were for or at least where they came?

Interestingly the numbers on Crouzet timer motors seem same as those in my machine. Markings seem same as well.

How does one remove timer/programmer from Miele washer so can swap old out for new?

Is this truly same timer, or am I mistaken? What would happen if it isn't and one powers up machine. Will something explode or otherwise damage washer?

Would it be simple just to swap out timer motors instead of taking out entire programmer? Timer motors seem wired into a quick connect, but where they connect into isn't clear from pictures one took previously.



  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 5         View Full Size


This post was last edited 09/18/2021 at 04:28



Post# 1128972 , Reply# 1   9/18/2021 at 01:55 (949 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Original timer/programmer as installed

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 7         View Full Size
Post# 1128974 , Reply# 2   9/18/2021 at 03:04 (949 days old) by statomatic (France)        

statomatic's profile picture
Hi, these timers are from the 88714xxx series, check if the last three digits are the same.
Of course if the new timer is for a dishwasher it wouldn't work in your machine.

Motors can be swapped by removing the metal clips, before replacing check if the part numbers matches (start by 82432xxx) and also type of gear, rotation and voltage.

You can remove the terminals from the quick connect with a thin screwdriver or a metal pin, it's a bit tedious to do but worth the effort if you don't want to replace the whole timer.



Post# 1128975 , Reply# 3   9/18/2021 at 04:17 (949 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

This post has been removed by the member who posted it.



Post# 1128985 , Reply# 4   9/18/2021 at 08:44 (949 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)        
@launderess

ozzie908's profile picture
I may be wrong here but I always thought that dishwasher timers would not have 2 motors why would it need them?

Also as your timer does advance on some cycles that would indicate its motors are working fine but the timer itself is worn out.

Would you be comfortable taking your timer out even if you leave the connections on it would allow you to see it better and you can place it next to the new one and see if its a match.

Good luck Austin


Post# 1128987 , Reply# 5   9/18/2021 at 09:02 (949 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Dual Timer Motor DW Timers

combo52's profile picture

Hi Austin, Lots of DW timers have two motors, usually the fast motor is for setting the cycle start point and for skipping parts of the cycle for shorter cycles and then resetting or canceling a cycle.

 

Even my 90s German built DW has dual timer motors.

 

John 


Post# 1128988 , Reply# 6   9/18/2021 at 09:06 (949 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)        
@combo52

ozzie908's profile picture
Well shut my mouth ....lol Goes to prove I can learn something new each day..

I have not in my days of fixing etc ever come accross a dual motor timer in a DW but then again the older ones I worked on were predominately Zanussi and other euro designs.

So would you agree with the diagnoses of faulty timer as opposed to motors ?

Austin


Post# 1129023 , Reply# 7   9/18/2021 at 15:29 (949 days old) by Brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Hi Laundress,

If it’s installed the same as in my w423, pull the knob off the front and that should allow you to reach the two screws behind that hold the timer on. Then gently move the timer back a couple of inches and you should be able to lift it up and out. I can’t remember whether the whole control panel needed removing on mine, or if it was just the knob. It’s been quite a few years.

That should let you do some comparisons, before you try removing any of the terminal blocks, take lots of photos. If they are the same, it’s then a case of transferring the terminal blocks one at a time across, on the 423, they were all individual wires, so that was a bloody nightmare.

It looks complicated, but as long as your careful and methodical, it’s not that difficult. If the TNR numbers are the same, then it will be the same part, just make sure it’s the number off the timer body rather than the timer motors.

I hope this helps

Nathan.


Post# 1129056 , Reply# 8   9/18/2021 at 20:54 (949 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

If you are lucky you might find that each wire is printed with a number that corresponds to a number next to each terminal on the timer. So, one at a time, you swap wire 24 to terminal 24, wire 30 to terminal 30, and so on.
Take photos of each side of the existing timer, so no wire or terminal goes un-photographed.


Post# 1129058 , Reply# 9   9/18/2021 at 21:25 (949 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Oh bother....

launderess's profile picture
Had hoped terminal connectors came as a block, not individually wired. Have no way of finding this out since Miele USA's policy on tech support means that service is virtually non existent. Well at least in giving detailed DIY support anyway.

@Nathan

Read your saga of W423 timer with keen interest.

www.automaticwasher.org/c...


Post# 1129063 , Reply# 10   9/18/2021 at 23:21 (948 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Hi Launderess
My advice above was generic, I didn't know your machine and if it has block connectors or individual wires.
I just looked at your photos above.
It looks like your timer has plastic block connectors. Good news. Phew!
If you are worried about getting block connectors mixed up (unlikely) you can use a Chinagraph pencil to make your own markings on each block with matching markings on the body of the timer, and so make it easy to get it right.
I generally swap each block one at a time any way, it depends how much slack you have in the wires will determine if you have space to swap it block by block, or have to remove all blocks from old timer and insert all blocks to new timer.

I'm not sure if the name Chinagraph is used in USA, I'm referring to wax pencils or grease pencils used for writing on china, glass, etc. I find them very handy, the marks wipe off when you are finished if you want to.


Post# 1129086 , Reply# 11   9/19/2021 at 11:47 (948 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
At least one mystery solved.

launderess's profile picture
Problem is not timer motors. Swapped out ones in my machine with those that came with "new" programmer control and results were same. That is timer did not advance when signaled.

After swapping things back watched and listened carefully, timer motors seem to be working as should, thus can now assume it is indeed entire timer/programer that is kaput.

Couldn't get timer knob off, and didn't want to damage anything so that was extent of project for today. Will have to reach out to Miele or someone to find out how one is supposed to get that timer knob off.

On another note those clever chops at Miele never fail in their German engineering. At least for this timer no hard wiring necessary, everything is connector blocks far as one could see. Swapping out timer motors is piece of cake since they are connected by a block as well. Indeed looked at parts diagram for my washer and Miele sells both block connectors. One would have to then wire things up, but don't think that applies here.

So that's me for you....


Post# 1129152 , Reply# 12   9/20/2021 at 13:02 (947 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)        
@launderess

ozzie908's profile picture
Any chance of a picture of the timer knob?

I think it will just push on though as it has the D shape spindle to insert in the back of the knob you can try a little gentle persuasion I have used grip pliers after placing a cloth over the part you turn its most likely rusted in place and maybe a little oil some of the spray type squirt it down the back of the knob if you can..
Am pleased you have been able to ascertain what the issue is and am sure once you have worked out how to undo it and get the new on installed Bertha will be as good as new.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Austin


Post# 1129161 , Reply# 13   9/20/2021 at 15:59 (947 days old) by statomatic (France)        

statomatic's profile picture
Knobs can be removed by pulling a string wrapped around the timer shaft, I do that sometimes when restoring vintage hifi.


Post# 1129456 , Reply# 14   9/23/2021 at 20:44 (944 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
I give up!

launderess's profile picture
Neither string trick nor pliers have succeeded in getting this timer knob off. Only thing one has accomplished thus far is cracking once pristine plastic facia.

Temperature and cycle selector knobs come off easily enough. But this timer knob just won't budge.

Cannot use any sort of "liquid wrench" or other things because cannot even get blasted that far out.

Knicked snaps off internet to show as example...


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 1129529 , Reply# 15   9/24/2021 at 19:53 (943 days old) by eddy1210 (Burnaby BC Canada)        
Dear L

eddy1210's profile picture
Once you get the timer knob off there will be screws underneath that will facilitate the removal of the whole timer. Then it's just a matter of plug and play. Good luck and the new timer you have should solve your problems.

Post# 1129539 , Reply# 16   9/24/2021 at 21:53 (943 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

try warming the knob with a hair dryer to soften the plastic? It will take a lot of warming to get heat down to the centre of the knob, so I'd go for lower temp over a longer time to minimize the risk of damaging any plastic.
Other trick is to use some sort of plastic-friendly spray lube on the knob shaft. You would use one that has a very fine tube that presses into the spray nozzle, so you could either direct the spray in behind the knob, or if you can't even pry the knob that far out, then spray from in behind the fascia.

Part of the trick is to apply an even pull with no sideways force.

Last resort, if you can get a spare knob, is wreck the knob to get it off the shaft. Just grip the knob with strong pliers and yank or wriggle it off.


Post# 1129612 , Reply# 17   9/25/2021 at 23:37 (941 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Three Cheers and a Tiger for me!

launderess's profile picture
Didn't want to try using a wet warmed cloth so close to electric, so opted for a blow dryer. Heat, stop, pry, heat some more, stop, pry; heat again, stop, pry.... Finally knob began to give to point using ones fingernails was able to get things going. In end but of a tug on knob and thing gave way. Of course now will have to book a manicure next week....

With that bit done was just matter of getting two tiny screws off timer (being careful not to drop them down behind facia panel. Then opened up washer.

These new programmers for W1070 and other models of series are easier to swap out I should think than W463 and others that required wiring up connections. Just pull off connector blocks, swap out timer, reconnect being careful to ensure what went and goes where. There are some markings that indicate what went where, but using Gizmo's suggestion at least marked those in front. Didn't have anything else so lipstick had to suffice.

In any event wires that have been in place for thirty or more years remained rather pretty much in place after disconnecting. Was just matter of putting things back, fitting timer back onto front panel, fixing screws.... Hint, if anyone is ever going to attempt this use a screwdriver or drill bit with magnetic tip. This cuts down chances of those tiny screws dropping down behind facia.

With everything connected and battened down beneath bonnet came moment of truth; plugged in washer and turned timer dial along with programming dial to "Cottons Short", and pushed "On".

Half expecting a big *kaboom* stood far as one could get from machine. Instead Big Bertha simply moved timer to fill portion and waited.

With no incoming water (cannot do that obviously with front of machine open. Turned off machine and moved timer to "Graduated Spin". Again standing far back as could, hit "On" button....

Berta simply engaged pump and began graduated spin series as normal, but now timer advanced as it should!

Let things go until main spin began and Bertha went through paces as normal! Timer advanced as it should during spin, and when nudged forward to shorten cycle timer advanced to stop spinning, do graduated spin, then shut herself off.

It's too late for doing a full cycle with water and all, further testing will have to wait until tomorrow or later in week.

Will say there is noticeable more noise from timer motors than before. Plenty of audible clicking, snapping, and ticking.

Thanks lads, couldn't have done it with you...

Now off to find that bottle of cream sherry!


Post# 1129613 , Reply# 18   9/26/2021 at 01:20 (941 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Funny innit?

launderess's profile picture
Supposedly Miele ended production of W770, W1065, W1070, and similar model series by 1989. But both Crouzet programmer/timer one has are marked " 07 AVR "1992" Unless one's French is mistaken that is 7th of April 1992.

Can understand why Miele would continue to lay in supply of parts after production ended. But these timers are all original to washers, not replacements far as one can tell.

Here's another thing...

Miele service has purchase date of washer in their system as 1/1/1989. That's New Years Day, and nothing would be open even back in 1989 to purchase an appliance. We received unit second hand late 1990's or early 2000's, cannot recall.

MieleUSA did tell us some time ago sales of W1070 and W1065 along with matching dryers didn't end until 1994. Indeed one could find sales adverts from 1991 for machines in question. books.google.com/booksQUESTIONMA...

Am thinking because W1070 and W1065 were special models adapted for sale in North America, production ran longer than in Europe. There obviously were newer models for Germany and other European markets.

In 1995 Miele sought a waiver from DOE for their W1918, W1903 and W1030 washers.

www.google.com/books/edit...

Without said waiver Miele couldn't sell those washing machines in USA I believe. Without anything new to replace W1070 and W1065 those washer may have remained in production and thus for sale in USA longer than their European cousins.

German spares website list end production date for W1070 and W1065 as 1994.


Post# 1129616 , Reply# 19   9/26/2021 at 01:51 (941 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Don't have way to upload videos.

launderess's profile picture
But here is W770 going though its paces. Gives you an idea of how timers on these washer go.






Post# 1129631 , Reply# 20   9/26/2021 at 08:24 (941 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
According to the text under the video, the washer in that video is from 1983.

One can only speculate why they were so much longer made for the American market than for the European market. Or is the end of production date a theoretical one as a date to start counting for the end of production for parts availability?

Fact is that the successory line to the W765 etc. (as those models were named in Europe) appeared on the market in 1989. Because I hoarded Miele brochures from that time, I have binders full of Miele brochures with that new line of washers and dryers. lol

My Miele W715 (see my photo album) was from 1991. It was a machine not only with Hydromatic, but also with Novotronic. Novotronic was something new on that series.

Perhaps Miele opened a new production line for the new series so it was possible to manufacture the old series longer? Did they do that because they wanted to introduce the new series step by step? We can only guess.



Post# 1129633 , Reply# 21   9/26/2021 at 09:20 (941 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture

Having to petition federal government for a waiver, and then wait for a response meant Miele wouldn't have a washing machine in USA market in 1995 besides W1070 and W1065. How deep a supply Miele USA had of those washers at end of 1994 or in 1995 one does not know. There may have been machines sitting in Germany that could have been warehoused awaiting shipment as well.

Miele was granted an interim waiver from DOE later in 1995, which was made final in 1996.

www.govinfo.gov/content/p...

Virtually all German spare sites one has trawled for parts to fit W1070/W1065 say production ended in 1994. This while their various cousins ended in 1989 or so.



Post# 1129639 , Reply# 22   9/26/2021 at 09:43 (941 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Thank you, interesting reading material! It looks like Whirlpool didn't like the Miele competition.

I guess Miele wasn't in a hurry to introduce these new models. So, can I assume that Miele didn't sell washers on the North American market for a few years?


Post# 1129643 , Reply# 23   9/26/2021 at 09:58 (941 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Cream sherry?
I would have thought an occasion such as this would have required celebrating with the dowager Lady Ursula's gooseberry wine. wink



CLICK HERE TO GO TO gizmo's LINK

Post# 1129644 , Reply# 24   9/26/2021 at 10:18 (941 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
"It looks like Whirlpool didn't like the Miele competition."

Probably not, but cannot see why Whirlpool would be so upset. Miele then, before and still now is really a niche part of laundry and other appliances market here in USA.


I mean it isn't as if Whirlpool doesn't or didn't then build front loading washing machines in Europe. Whirlpool owns Hotpoint, Bauknecht, and Indesit, all European brands.

Cannot tell from research so far when Miele started sales of W19XX models and matching dryers in USA exactly. Know they were on sale by 1996, but cannot pin down when they arrived.

Just because Miele stopped producing W1070 and W1065 in 1994, doesn't mean stocks vanished overnight. Years after W1918 W1903 and other 19XX models ended production one could find NOS machines lying about spare. One thus assumes same happened with W10XX and even the odd W770 and W765.

When asked a salesman why a lone W1918 was sitting on sale floor for months after model was discontinued (may have been more than a year), his response was that dealers had to purchase Miele appliances from MieleUSA, so the things couldn't be returned easily if at all. By contractual agreement prices were set by MieleUSA and dealers had little to nil wiggle room.

Usually when an appliance model is discontinued usual practice on this side of pond is to reduce price if it doesn't sell. Longer it sits sitting deeper price chops until it goes.

Sometime in 1980's through 1990's it was Asko, Creda, Bosch and Miele battling it out to bring European front loading washing machines to USA.

Since Miele W1070 and W1065 are 120v/208v-240v at 60hz they were useless outside of North America. Miele wasn't going to ship unsold machines back to Germany for a host of reasons. First being due to voltage and frequency differences they were basically useless.


Miele obviously orders huge amounts of parts when it commissions things from vendors. One wonders if this April 1992 was last batch of timer/programmers ordered from Crouzet. Since they are 115v/60hz couldn't be used on other Miele washers or dishwashers.


Post# 1129645 , Reply# 25   9/26/2021 at 10:24 (941 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
@ Gizmo

launderess's profile picture
Ohhh, we're a little sauce box this morning aren't we! *LOL*

Find cream sherry rather soothing yet dignified.

"It's ok, leave the bottle".







Post# 1129651 , Reply# 26   9/26/2021 at 11:25 (941 days old) by statomatic (France)        

statomatic's profile picture
Well done, glad you sorted it out.

Post# 1129697 , Reply# 27   9/26/2021 at 20:25 (941 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Merci beaucoup!

launderess's profile picture
Won't claim total victory until run one or more full cycles to see how timer behaves.

Once that is finally sorted need to fit new hot water solenoid valve.

Alas while one is dreading the thought, that motor needs to come out for checking and probably replacing brushes. That is going to be an adventure.

It's of no use calling Miele USA for service call because am sure they will give "you're machine is old, obsolete, stop bothering us...." response. This and or "we don't do such repairs in field, your washer will need to be taken to New Jersey, work done, then sent returned. All at cost to you including parts, labor, and transit".....


Post# 1129714 , Reply# 28   9/27/2021 at 04:13 (940 days old) by stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)        

stricklybojack's profile picture
.
You may be able to get the motor rebuilt. I follow a lot of car repair guys on YouTube and they get around non-existent and/or impossibly expensive parts by finding shops that can still rebuild almost any starter, clutch, pump, etc.


Post# 1129717 , Reply# 29   9/27/2021 at 04:44 (940 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Did one load yesterday evening

launderess's profile picture
Everything seems to work as it should, so that bit is sorted for now hopefully.

But motor sounds like a 747 taxing down runway.

Noticed this noise before several years ago (2012 IIRC), and even called Miele tech to have a look. Thought it might be rear bearings going or something. Tech said noise was normal and "fine", but I still have my doubts.


Post# 1129755 , Reply# 30   9/27/2021 at 14:28 (940 days old) by eddy1210 (Burnaby BC Canada)        

eddy1210's profile picture
Very happy to hear the good news, your 1070 lives on!

Post# 1129771 , Reply# 31   9/27/2021 at 16:40 (940 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thanks Eddy!

launderess's profile picture
Couldn't have done it without your help and rest of the lads.

Very much appreciated am sure...

While had front of machine open took a peek to see what there is inside cabinet.

With only that limited view things looked rather well; no signs of rust or water being slung at back of tub that could possibly indicate tub bearings going.

Was a mercy didn't actually purchase NOS timer motors thinking they were issue. Never occurred to one that mechanical timer/programmer could wear out. But there you are then....

Truth to tell don't use W1070 that often, preferring either of the AEG Lavamat machines for routine daily washing. Modern machines with better control of motor and tub movements show up some of faults in older machines like this Miele.

Like fact Lavamat washers spin after main wash and each rinse for "Normal Cottons/Linens". Think it makes a world of difference when it comes to rinse results.

For those unfamiliar with Miele W1065 and W1070 Eddy has some great videos up on his YT channel.













Among minor quibbles is fact these washers do not cope well with excess froth or even too much water at extraction. Where modern machines will stop or slow down spinning, pump out excess water or froth, then ramp things up again, not these Miele washers.

Machine will slow down spinning while continuing to pump, but if timer is set to advance, it will. This can often mean poor extraction or rinsing results.

Interesting thing is (you can see this in Eddy's videos), rather than sending all that excess froth or water cascading down glass, much of it seems to remain between tub or somewhere.

Owners manual for these washers suggests loading less than full capacity when doing loads of absorbent items like toweling and so forth.

In common with other older three dial European washers, these Miele machines offer a wide range of custom programs. Only thing they will lock out is doing Woolens at any temp above 40 degrees C. Otherwise pretty much sky is limit. Can do a "boil wash" of delicates. My AEG washers only allow two temp choices for "Delicates", 30 and 40 degrees C.




Post# 1129796 , Reply# 32   9/27/2021 at 21:43 (940 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
@stricklybojack

launderess's profile picture
Have no doubts finding someone to rebuild or otherwise work on big Miele washer motor, this even if had to crate the thing up and send it off somewhere.

Issue is getting that cast iron behemoth of a motor out of washer, then putting it back.

In a marvel of German engineering Miele designed these washers to be totally serviced two main ways; top and front. Getting motor out of washer is majority of battle. Once that is done rest is comparatively simple






Post# 1129808 , Reply# 33   9/28/2021 at 06:42 (939 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Maybe normal sounds?

launderess's profile picture
Washer sounds like this when spinning....







Post# 1129877 , Reply# 34   9/29/2021 at 05:49 (938 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

askolover's profile picture

My Asko has always sounded like a jet taking off since day one bought new. 


Post# 1129890 , Reply# 35   9/29/2021 at 08:05 (938 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

This machine should have an open bottom, right?

Be careful not to throw your back out.
Get a person to help.
Put some blankets down and tilt and lay on the left side.
Should make things way easier.



I think that the early Novotronic designs just were not easily converted to a different voltage AND frequency.

So they waited a while until they figured that out.

Same weirdness I always thought: There were never any home Novotronic machines with brushless motors.
On the other hand, there were professional machines with brushless motors, but always of the older Novotronic designs with push buttons, not the clocks ones.


Post# 1129897 , Reply# 36   9/29/2021 at 10:46 (938 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)        
@launderess

ozzie908's profile picture
If memory serves the main wash motor is an induction type and the brushed motor does the spin, You can if your nimble enough swap out the brushes without removing the motor. Its not easy but can be done. You will know when they have worn down as it will continue to wash but when the timer says spin it will just come to a stop.

Reason they are such a size is its basically 2 motors in 1 its why they go on so long they were built to last in those days ....

Good luck and do let us know how it turns and big claps for sorting the timer yourself a big pat on the back for that one...xx


Post# 1129930 , Reply# 37   9/29/2021 at 18:57 (938 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Thanks for suggestions and comments lads!

launderess's profile picture
Think what will do first is get service plate off, then have a look at motor while room is dark and it is in spin. If see sparks, that is clear indication brushes need changing then will have to plot next move.

Otherwise since have two AEG washers, the Maytag wringer and Hoover TT am spoiled for choice washing machine wise. Truth to tell have let Big Bertha sit more unused since AEG Lavamat arrived, then when AEG/Electrolux toplader came she got even less use.

Truth to tell prefer way more modern European washers rinse over older machines. The Miele only does a short pulse spin after third rinse. One full but short follows after fourth before final rinse. Depending upon detergent used and other factors often feel things aren't rinsed very well.

You can see in video posted @R32 getting at motor from bottom seems far easier for either removal or changing brushes.

In any event cannot do anything until obtain extensions for my ratchet set or another with longer reach. So that's me for you.

@Ozzie908

Yes, these older Miele washers were built to last. In theory they are like commercial units then and some still now. Virtually everything can be replaced or rebuilt and machine kept going thus indefinitely. There are tons of videos from Europe where DIY and hobbyists have done just that. Even rear bearing replacement is doable if one has proper tools and parts.

It just comes down to cost, best use of one's time, and sourcing of parts.

What toasts one's bread is thinking about how many W1070, W1065, W765 and W770 washers on this side of pond that were rubbished for want of simple repair.

Common thing is when tub stops moving in wash or rinse phase indicating brushes have gone. MieleUSA seems to just have told people "buy new" instead of just replacing the darned brushes.

That or MieleUSA gave customers a load of flannel about how techs do not change brushes or anything else to do with motor in field. Washer must be packed up, sent to Princeton, NJ workshops.....

It's same for rear bearings, suspension springs...

Newer Miele washers now have access panels on side and rear IIRC. Thus in theory swapping out shocks, motor brushes or even motor should be far easier.


Post# 1129962 , Reply# 38   9/30/2021 at 06:11 (937 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)        
@launderess

ozzie908's profile picture
Its a sad state of affairs when you get informed by the local Miele engineer that if the motor or bearings on my W1 fail during the warranty period ( Another 3 years ) they will not repair the washer but send me a new one..... To say I was very disappointed with hearing that as I paid a small fortune for something that is not repairable by the manufacturer ??? WTH if they don't repair it then no one will and if after the warranty has expired and it dies then I will either have to remortgage the house and pay to get it repaired or replaced and if thats how they are going to go as far as looking after loyal customers then its going to have to be another brand of machine as won't pay out again for another Miele if no longer fixable. How sad they have fallen so far after all these years of being one of the best!!

Austin


Post# 1129964 , Reply# 39   9/30/2021 at 06:58 (937 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Things can go either way I think.

A member (TopLoader?) had several issues with his new Miele washer. Finally what sounded like rear bearing failure occurred. MieleUSA being MieleUSA debated that fact with him, but never the less a tech was dispatched from Princeton, NJ to MA for sorting matter. Sure enough it was a rear bearing failure, this on a basically new washing machine.

Miele USA offered to ship washer down to Princeton, NJ, do repair work, then send washer back, all under warranty. Member stuck to his guns and insisted on a new washer period. His rationale was sound; machine had several issues prior to rear bearing failure, and that last bit shouldn't happen on new washing machines. Long story short, he got a new washer out of Miele USA.

At least here Miele is famous for fobbing customers off with giving a discount (not more than 30% or so) off a new appliance if they will give up their current model that is in need of repair. This often occurs with older washers and few other things. They tried that with me once to stop calling them out to fix my Miele W1070.

Don't know about elsewhere in world, but FWIU at least in USA Miele has no where near enough repair techs. They like everyone else is having a difficult time finding qualified people wanting to become repair techs as well.

One wonders if Miele simply considers it a faster and more effective remedy for certain repairs to just give a new appliance and be done. I mean if a customer can have say a new washer in less than a week, versus waiting two weeks or more to have broken one fixed...


Post# 1129965 , Reply# 40   9/30/2021 at 07:00 (937 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Above being said, if rear bearings and or motor go out during warranty period/first three years, I'd want a new machine.

Those sort of bits are meant to last, especially on Miele washers. Unless owner is using washer in a commercial or industrial setting doing five, six or more loads per day five or six days per week, can't see how rear bearings or a motor would or should fail in short period of time.


Post# 1129969 , Reply# 41   9/30/2021 at 07:16 (937 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

The W1 is very much repairable.
It's just not worth it.

For a proper repair they'd have to take the machine to their shop, do the 2h repair and then return it.
Cost would be north of production cost of a new unit, so it's trashed.

I think the billing rate of an hour work from Miele service is in the range of 100€ or more.
Multiply that for the 2 man needed to transport it and work cost would be like 600€ on its own.
My shop buys mid-line Miele washers for not much more.



Actually, bearing exchange is much easier on the W1 than the a W770.

From what I have seen, the bearings on a W1 should be replaceable without removing the tub.
Could get tight pulling the bearing cross out, but possible.

For the older service door designs you have to pull the entire tub out which either involves a small crane or removing motor, counterweights and all the wiring and piping.

Saying: If back then the bearings would fail under warranty, they would have replaced the machine entirely as well.


Post# 1129971 , Reply# 42   9/30/2021 at 07:38 (937 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Yes, that is how things go in USA, which is why Miele here does not do major work like rear bearing swaps, tub replacement, motor issues, etc... in homes. Everything has to go to Princeton, NJ where they have winches, cranes, etc...

This being said am always amazed with what hobbyists and DIY people do with Miele or other washers in Europe working in small spaces. Total braking down, repair, rebuilding.....










Post# 1130002 , Reply# 43   9/30/2021 at 14:47 (937 days old) by Brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Miele replaced the bearings on my 3xxx series washer at the 5 year mark under their quality guarantee. The first time, they took it away, it was gone for two weeks and then it started leaking from the bearings within a few loads.

They took it away again and replaced the inner drum, rear backplate and the bearings again and 8 years later it has not had another problem. From the number of 3xxx machines I’ve found that the inner drum rubs on the boot, there seems to have been a design issue with their first 6.5kg machines that fitted in a standard 60x60cm cabinet.


Post# 1130307 , Reply# 44   10/4/2021 at 02:12 (933 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
For some reason I've acquired a Miele collection over the years:

One 1918a washer
Three 1065 washers
Two dryers of same general vintage as the 1065

Of these, I know one of the 1065 washers work, as does the 1918a. I generally only use the 1918a, and then mostly for whites, like towels and washcloths. And I prefer it because of its higher spin speed, even though it "only" heats to 170F, vs the 205F of the 1065's. IMHO, 170F is more than enough with modern detergents.

Never tested the dryers or the second and third 1065 washers.

For a while these items were going for a song, or free, on Craigslist. Go figure.





Post# 1130311 , Reply# 45   10/4/2021 at 07:00 (933 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Miele didn't sell huge numbers W700, W10XX washers in USA. In any event after nearly thirty years many were either by now scrapped (for want of repair usually I bet), sitting around spare in some basement or whatever, and or still being used long as owner can keep them going (Moi for instance).

Saw a W1065 few years ago on CL in SF, seller claimed it no longer would spin (common issue, just means new motor brushes are needed usually), and was practically giving unit away. Reached out but heard nothing back but crickets. Then advert mysteriously went missing from CL. Oh well...

There is also as with W19xx and even later model of Miele washers owners chuck these early units for something more modern, and or with greater capacity.

World has changed front loading washer wise in USA from back in 1980's when Miele along with Asko, Creda and Bosch introduced European h-axis washers to USA.

Much as one (obviously) has a soft spot for my W1070, the AEG Lavamat washers in my collection are in many ways superior.

MieleUSA is of no help to those wishing to keep older washers, dryers and other appliances going. Tech support and repair vary from wonderful to hopeless. In most instances for at least past fifteen or so years owners of older washers are pretty much told same thing "machine is old and obsolete, we don't have parts......" This and or finding a tech who knows his way around these old machines is becoming more and more rare.

Main thing of course with these older washers is that the main things likely to need repair (motor brushes, suspension springs, etc...) aren't jobs MieleUSA normally will do in homes. So washer must be packed up, sent to NJ, work done, then sent back. All of that Miele will charge for plus parts and labor. For all but the most loyal owner of an older Miele washer costs are just too dear for putting into an "old" washing machine.

On another note older ASKO units once were a common sight for resale, but they've pretty much dropped off as well. More recent offerings, yes those you can find.

Creda probably sold lowest amount of units, and that reflects in how rarely they pop-up.


Post# 1130499 , Reply# 46   10/5/2021 at 23:55 (931 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)        

sudsmaster's profile picture
Yeah, at least one of my W1065's were nearly given away by new homeowners who didn't seem to appreciate them. Probably came with the home. I didn't ask, but figured they wanted something bigger, or more modern, or both.

Post# 1131774 , Reply# 47   10/24/2021 at 07:40 (913 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
This is exactly how my W1070 sounds when spinning. Guess it is normal and one just didn't notice....






Post# 1131776 , Reply# 48   10/24/2021 at 07:48 (913 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Well, in the comments it says that the shock absorbers and the bearings are faulty. My W715 sounded like that too. It still kept working for a while, but when I had to move, I had it taken away.

Post# 1131782 , Reply# 49   10/24/2021 at 08:37 (913 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Know shocks aren't bad on my washer as they were recently replaced. Yes, there was a thread about that, *LOL*

Rear bearings seem fine. There isn't any unusual play with tubs (have tried all the standard tests). It is certainly coming from motor area as noticed when had full front open recently to install new programmer/timer.

When had washer opened took a look at insides of back and sides of washer From what one could see things were clean as a whistle. No signs of rust or water being slung by bearing seals having gone or going.

Ages ago now when had that excellent independent Miele service man out on another matter, he said motor sounds were normal. Wanted to get him to look at the brushes, but the man wasn't taking that bait.

At this point one is going to let sleeping dogs lie as it were. Am in no mood to open up washer yet again, and certainly not ready to wrestle that huge heavy cast iron motor out of washer. Thing is only used very rarely, not even once per week on average as have the two AEG washers that prefer for everyday laundry.


Post# 1134160 , Reply# 50   11/21/2021 at 17:15 (885 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
It is to laugh!

launderess's profile picture
Clearing out tons of old emails came across receipt from MieleUSA service from back in 2012. Had them out to look at my W1070 due to "whining" noise.

Tech noted. "Check unit and found motor was winning noise. Unit will not go into high speed. I was going to replace the brushes
but the motor connector and wires look very brittle. Will send to supervisor".

Several days later same tech returned to make further repairs and noted: " Check unit with wet clothing during spin cycle two time and unit is not making noise."

This was back in 2012, and even did a thread about Miele along with comment regarding "brittle wiring...".

So washer has been making this sound for sometime now. Interestingly have made a few trips to local laundromat (things too huge for any of my washers like coverlets), and they have a few SQ commercial washers that make same exact sort of noise when spinning. They've done so for years now and it doesn't seem as if owners are bothered about having someone in to fix.



Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy