I need a little help with my latest project, a set of titanium 617's with pedestals. The dryer just needs a very deep clean and I have ordered the updated lint filter parts so next time I open it up there won't be enough lint/hair to make a spare dog. The washer however has had a hard life, every panel has a lot of deep scratches, the bellows is disgusting and what pumped out when I ran diagnostic test 9 was blacker than the oil from my diesel truck. I pulled connector of the motor checked 1-2 1-3 2-3 and they were all 3.6ohm. The next step in the service manual is what I don't follow:
Is the resistance measurement of Motor
device approximately 3 Ω to 6 Ω?
(Measure it directly on the of Motor wiring
connector on the Motor Control Board side
between J2-1 and J2-2, and J2-3 and J2-4.)
J2-1 is ground and J2-2 to 4 are the 3 phases of the motor. I did check continuity from control connector to motor connector and the harness is good. It looks to me that the motor control board is the problem but I want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious about the J2 connector.
Can anyone can recommend a good paint brand as I would like to respray the cabinets. A used motor control board is $70 so my total cost will be $270 without the paint, which seems like a pretty good deal. If you have any paint recommendations or insight on the service manual test I would appreciate it.
thanks
Bob
Post# 1129572 , Reply# 1 9/25/2021 at 12:59 (933 days old) by henene4(Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))
The manual trys to make you test both the wiring harness and the motor in a weird way.
I'd go by the motor specs and just test motor.
Remove the wiring harness between the MCU and the motor on both ends and take it out of the machine.
Check each wire for a resistance of close to 0.
If that checks fine, test each motor terminal at the motor to each other.
You should either read 3-6 Ohms or open line with any combination of pins if I am not mistaken.
If that is true check every pin to ground (what I think you called ground is actually neutral) - the metal chassis of the motor. If I am not mistaken all pins should read open line to the chassis of the motor.
These motors rarely go bad unless something stalls the drum or motor and as long as both the motor and drum turn freely, that shouldn't be the case.
If that checks fine it's 90% the MCU.
The E59 points towards the MCU.
The E5A is an overheat issue, and the MCU only overheats if the motor stalls or some component on it is dead.
Take the MCU out of its casing and inspect the capacitors and switching components. If anything there fails it's often visible to the nacked eye.
Post# 1129584 , Reply# 2 9/25/2021 at 15:36 (933 days old) by roberth58(Shalimar, FL)
Thanks, the service manual is odd. All 3 phases read 3.6ohm, harness has continuity from MCU plug to motor plug, all 3 phases are open to ground (motor case). The E5A is the one that bothers me, the MCU looks good, no bulging caps, no burnt traces or other signs of high current draw. I'll go with 90% its the MCU and get another one. I did read another article where the motor was reading 3.4 and a new MCU did not fix it and he ended up replacing the motor instead. I have also read 3-6 and 4-6 as being good values. It's all an adventure.
A replacement MCU fixed it. The high speed spin and the dryer capacity is making the Maytag 5500's feel a bit puny. Loving the 617's so far and can highly recommend the clam shell lint filter upgrade if you have not done it.
Comes to the Rescue!
