Hi Lynn,

The plug inside the door is for an optional rinse aid dispenser.  You don't need to do anything with it to remove the front door panel. 

Your dishwasher was made when Hobart still owned the KitchenAid brand, and the mechanism that activates the dispenser was a potential problem spot due to where it was situated.  After Whirlpool bought KitchenAid, they quickly made improvements to the dispenser activation system.  I doubt your problem lies with the dispenser cups on the inside of the door.

You can access this mechanism by removing the front panel.  You might find a compromised component that's causing the problem.   The panel is easy to remove.  There are screws holding the long chrome trim pieces on both sides of the door.  You only have to remove the trim from one side and with it out of the way, the front panel insert can be slid out to gain access to the dispenser mechanism.   Experts here can advise on repair options or if you need to replace the whole thing.  Whether you can use the Whirlpool replacement in case yours is shot, I don't know, but someone here will.  A picture of what you find behind the panel would be helpful.

I would start simple.  Get the front panel off and run it through a cycle that normally makes the noise and see if it is really coming from the detergent dispenser and go from there.

Thanks Alan for clarifying the process.  It's been quite a while since I've had a KA front panel off and I completely forgot about the the main door panel. 

Thanks also for confirming about the leakage issue.  I remember reading that Whirlpool quickly changed the dispenser configuration to alleviate that chronic problem.

Maybe a bad solenoid somewhere?

My KDS20 has been in storage for a while and I couldn't remember if the whole panel had to be removed or just the inserts.  I should have tried to look since I have the same panels on mine.

I hope you get your dishwasher noise sorted out.  There are lots of experts here to help.

Wow that noise is bad, 

Next time you hear it immediately turn off the hot water supply under the sink, if the problem immediately stops you have a bad inlet valve.

If the  sound does not change when you turn the water off you have a [ maybe serious ] problem with the main pump or motor.

An old IV is also [ other than a very clogged filter ] is also the number one reason the detergent dispensers often do to open reliably on Hobart built KA DWs.

John L.

From my own experience reading about vintage KA dishwashers here, I feel it might be easier to locate a timer for your model than for the ones with all pushbuttons (like the Superba model) and no crank dial timer like yours.  Others here will know the exact part number if a replacement timer is needed. 

It's not a big deal to open up the control panel to get at the timer if needed.  The most annoying process is trying to get the lower front access panel reinstalled if removal is required.  It takes a lot of hit and miss attempts and in my own experience as well as others here, it will suddenly align when you least expect it and then you're good to fasten it down.  If there's no need to remove it, don't!

Definitely try to find an older repair person.  A youngster will take one look and tell you to buy a new machine instead of even attempting to repair a prehistoric machine with analog controls.

Your description of the noise occurring after several minutes of normal operation makes me think the intake valve may not be the problem.  The experts here may have an easier time attempting to pinpoint the offending component based on the points on the dial where the noise happens.

If we can get to the bottom of this, your machine may serve you for quite a while longer.  Hobart built them like tanks.

If it is shuttering durning fill it is likely a bad inlet valve, It is very unlikely a timer will do this during 3 fills and not the first, often when the water line fully warms up to the machine IVs will start to shutter if it is failing.

John L.

Thanks for the narrative.  I know just enough to be dangerous, but I can't help but wonder if there's an issue with the non-reversing motor system.  The motor itself wouldn't be the problem though.  Usually there's a snapping sound from a solenoid just ahead of the draining sequence.   As I understand it, this reroutes the water from the pump to go out the drain hose instead of being recirculated like it is during a wash or rinse sequence.  I wonder if there's some kind of hang-up with the solenoid switching the pump back into re-circulation mode after draining and when the next sequence begins.

The experts will be able to advise if I'm onto something or not.

Lynn, I do hope that those who have contributed thus far will post and make any necessary clarifications or corrections.  I've heard the snap when it's time to drain the tub but I don't recall hearing it when the pump reverts to recirculation.  Others can advise on whether it snaps for both operations or not.

It's possible that if this turns out to be the problem, Hobart may still carry the part.  If not, I'm sure someone here will help to provide or locate one.

Also, it just occurred to me that if there are worn components under the main four-way hydrosweep wash arm, it can make a chattering sound.  I wonder if this is another thing to check.  Give the arm a spin when the machine is empty and see if it spins smoothly or jitters its way around.  I think this would happen periodically during the wash or rinse cycles rather than just at the start, but you never know.  To remove and examine the wash arm and bushings, just lift it straight upward, making sure the tips of the arms clear the bump-outs on both sides for the rack rollers.