Thread Number: 88835  /  Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
Need help removing front timer dial on Maytag WU401
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Post# 1134047   11/20/2021 at 13:32 (880 days old) by bgregoire (Canada)        

Hello folks!

I recently moved into a house that came with a beautiful Maytag WU401 dishwasher, series 02. It the dishwasher with inverted rack and a timer knob at the front. It was hardly ever used but it still needed a new clear belt and inlet valve, which I was able to swap myself.

We have noticed, lately, a white residue on our dishes. I have also notived the rinse-aid tank seems as full as new. I can hear the rinse solenoid go clunk near the end of the cycle. I have been wondering in the solenoid or rinse dispenser needs replacing. So I dig into the Service Manual I found online, and to get the front door panel off, they simply state: "remove the timer knob". I am duped! How on earth can I get it off?

While we are at it, I'd appreciate any other tips on how to prevent this white residue from forming. We have hard water, and I use a non-phosphate detergent, nearly filling the dispenser for every wash.

Thanks so much!





Post# 1134048 , Reply# 1   11/20/2021 at 14:00 (880 days old) by reactor (Oak Ridge, Tennessee-- )        
Timer knob removal

reactor's profile picture
Just screw the top part of the cycle knob counter-clockwise until it comes off. The indicator below the knob, then just slides straight up and off the shaft.

When your rinse-aid dispenser is fixed, you might want to try Lemi-Shine rinse-agent. It has more natural ingredients, and I have been very impressed how well it works. The citric acid, in it, actually dissolves the calcium carbonate in the water.

BTW: Nothing will make your dishwasher perform to its peak like soft-water. If it's practical for you to get one, a central water softener will take your hardness level down to zero (= to rain water) not only will your dishware literally sparkle and gleam, but you can use much less detergent in you washer, and you eliminate hard water build-up/scale/scum not only in the dishwasher, but also in/on sinks, tubs and faucets.




This post was last edited 11/20/2021 at 14:35
Post# 1134051 , Reply# 2   11/20/2021 at 14:46 (880 days old) by Hippiedoll ( arizona )        
I use borax...

hippiedoll's profile picture
¼-1 cup in my washing machine (depending on load size)
And ¼ cup in my dishwasher.

It says on the borax box that it is a water softener.
🥰😉

Hopefully it helps you & your Maytag dishwasher
😊


Post# 1134056 , Reply# 3   11/20/2021 at 16:08 (880 days old) by electronicontrl (Grand Rapids, MI)        
Borax in dishwasher

electronicontrl's profile picture
I use Borax in the laundry much of the time and all of the time with whites. I've thought about putting it in the dishwasher but was concerned about oversudsing. I will give it a try. Thank you Christina.

Post# 1134057 , Reply# 4   11/20/2021 at 16:23 (880 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate) can be found online to replace what’s missing from detergent nowadays. Doesn’t take much, maybe 1/2 tsp added the dispenser cups.


Post# 1134060 , Reply# 5   11/20/2021 at 17:04 (880 days old) by bgregoire (Canada)        

They you all for your quick replies. Those are interesting tips about improving sparkle!

@reactor, I tried turning the chrome bit of the knob counter clockwise. I actually tried as hard as I dared but its not budging. I'm worried any more pressure will brak something. Thoughts tips?

Here are some pictures to confirm what knob I'm needing help with.



  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 1134067 , Reply# 6   11/20/2021 at 18:08 (880 days old) by reactor (Oak Ridge, Tennessee-- )        
different model

reactor's profile picture
My apologies, Ben. I was describing the two piece cycle knob on the newer style Maytag Reverse Racks. I believe your knob just pulls straight off. It may have some corrosion that is adhering the timer shaft to the dial. If you have some spray penetrating oil/corrosion remover (such as Deep Creep) you might see if you can get some to go in between the shaft and knob/dial.

Most spray lubricants have a small diameter spray tube you can attach to the nozzle to get into tight places. See if you work the tube in between the dial and the front panel until you can reach the shaft and spray it.

Let it sit for a while and it will hopefully penetrate. Then GENTLY put a slight rocking motion onto the dial as you pull straight out. That dial may have never been removed in over fifty years, so give it time and keep working at it, it should eventually come loose.


Post# 1134069 , Reply# 7   11/20/2021 at 18:30 (880 days old) by bgregoire (Canada)        

@reactor: Peace of cake with that penetrant trick! Okay, I'm going to open the panel now and have a good look. Might come back here with some questions if I find something out of the ordinary! Thanks so much.

Post# 1134073 , Reply# 8   11/20/2021 at 19:27 (880 days old) by bgregoire (Canada)        

@reactor. Well ok, got in, freed the solenoid, checked resistance. Got 230k (a reading of 230 on the 2k range). The service manual says check for continuity and if not continuity, chuck and replace. Well what is this you think? Good, bad?

When I squeeze the reservoir, some rinse liquid comes out of the proper orifice. I'm still not sure if this is working or not.

I was thinking of plugging the solenoid straight to the wall to see if it works, but not sure it takes full voltage. ideas?


Post# 1134084 , Reply# 9   11/20/2021 at 20:20 (880 days old) by bgregoire (Canada)        

AHA! So I dissaembled the rinse reservoir and solenoid and inspected things a little more closely. Turns out the reservoir was filled with a clear thick substance much like liquid hand soap but with a bad almost petrol-like smell. I'm thinking the previous owners did not know what rinse aid is? It should always be very liquid right? Anyways, I thoroughly cleaning it and filled it with the good stuff. Looking forward to running it tomorrow.

Case probably closed! Thanks!


Post# 1134095 , Reply# 10   11/20/2021 at 21:06 (880 days old) by Cam2s (Nebraska)        

What a gorgeous reverse rack! Hopefully you get many more years of washing out of it!

Post# 1134114 , Reply# 11   11/21/2021 at 07:34 (879 days old) by reactor (Oak Ridge, Tennessee-- )        
good work!

reactor's profile picture
Seems as if you have everything under control, Ben. Please let us know how it functions with your first load.

Post# 1134152 , Reply# 12   11/21/2021 at 16:41 (879 days old) by Hippiedoll ( arizona )        
electronicontrl:

hippiedoll's profile picture
You're welcome.
I hope it works for you.
I put it in the wash cycle (not the pre-wash).
🙂


Post# 1134207 , Reply# 13   11/22/2021 at 08:50 (878 days old) by bgregoire (Canada)        

@reactor, the machine is back and running but I have done several changes, plus don't know if the rinse aid solenoid is working properly, so will probably have to wait a few months to see how things go. I:

- cleaned out the rinse aid dispenser and added new (real) rinse aid
- soaked my powdery dishes in a vinegar solution
- added 1/4 cup borax at the beginning of my last wash
- plan on added borax to every wash as recommended above (water is super hard here, like 200ppm). but @Hippiedoll, how to you add borax in the wash cycle? I don't have room in my detergent compartment for borax and detergent...unless you reduce the amount of detergent now that you use borax?

@reactor, do you know how I can test if the rinse aid solenoid is actually working withou waiting for a couple of months of use to see if the reservoir is emptying? I did not dare send 120volts directly to the solenoid to check it. I don't want to burn it and did not know if the voltage was reduced in the machine before it reaches that component.

Thanks again!


Post# 1134229 , Reply# 14   11/22/2021 at 15:41 (878 days old) by Hippiedoll ( arizona )        
bgregoire:

hippiedoll's profile picture
How I use Borax in the dishwasher.
I have a Kitchenaid Imperial dishwasher with the cycle dial on the left hand side of the control panel. I have marked a line in the cycle when each detergent dispenser opens. And I can hear a knock when they open. After the 2nd dispenser (WASH) opens, i wait about a minute, then I open the dishwasher door, and pour the ¼ cup of Borax along the bottom half of the door and close the dishwasher door. Latch the handle and press my NORMAL WASH & HEATED DRY OFF buttons and let Katherine the dishwasher do it's thing.


Post# 1134230 , Reply# 15   11/22/2021 at 15:46 (878 days old) by Hippiedoll ( arizona )        
I should have added in my last reply...

hippiedoll's profile picture
At the moment, I am using Cascade platinum pods.
That's why after the detergent dispenser opens, I wait about 1 minute, to make sure the pod has dissolved and gotten washed out of the dispenser before adding the Borax.


Post# 1134239 , Reply# 16   11/22/2021 at 17:31 (878 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Is borax reasonable to use on dishware?  Presumably OK after a couple rinses?


CLICK HERE TO GO TO DADoES's LINK


Post# 1134246 , Reply# 17   11/22/2021 at 19:05 (878 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

Is borax reasonable to use on dishware?
That is a good question if it causes etching or any other accelerated wear and tear characteristics to dishes. Back when I was on hard water, I'd be willing to do some short and long term experiments but I'm on soft water now.
As far as toxicity goes, Borax would be the least of my worries considering the typical ingredients in:  Laundry detergents, dishwasher detergents, and rinse aids. Chlorine bleach is pretty damn harsh to machinery (metals, rubber, porcelain, plastics). It's also toxic and harsh to humans, pets, and the environment.
Are you on soft water, Glenn?

Post# 1134248 , Reply# 18   11/22/2021 at 20:03 (878 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Softened water = no.  Private well and aerobic septic system.


Post# 1134251 , Reply# 19   11/22/2021 at 20:48 (878 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture

Private well and aerobic septic system.
Are you concerned about the effects of salt being discharged in the septic field? The controversy about salt discharge in an aerobic/anaerobic field has been around for 30+ years but the general consensus is that an aerobic field is "supposedly" less affected/not effected all in comparison to an anaerobic field. Some studies show that even an anaerobic field isn't affected as long the water softener is properly adjusted and functioning as intended.
There's so many different opinions that it's difficult unearth the truth, even without taking other variables into consideration like sizing and soil types.

Post# 1134841 , Reply# 20   11/29/2021 at 10:28 (871 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Sodium ions in softened water isn't a concern but of course the regeneration discharge couldn't go into the system.

A sump pump sprays the treated effluent water onto my "back 40" yard area via two standard sprinkler heads, timed for early-morn hrs.  It doesn't run if the pump tank level isn't high enough.  An override float bypasses the timer to pump it down immediately if a toilet hangs for example.  An alarm float triggers if the pump fails.


Post# 1134882 , Reply# 21   11/30/2021 at 12:57 (870 days old) by reactor (Oak Ridge, Tennessee-- )        
rinse aid solenoid

reactor's profile picture
My apologies, I lost track of this thread. If you haven't tested your solenoid/valve yet, look on the wiring diagram that should be glued on the inside of your door panel.

I have only had the later models' of the Reverse Rack, and they had 120 volt solenoids on the dispenser. I suspect yours does too, but check the wiring diagram to be sure. If there is no wiring diagram, trace the wires and note if they go directly to the timer. If so, it is a 120v circuit, as you have no transformer present in your machine. (The operating voltage may be stamped on the solenoid itself, anyway.)

On the later model Reverse Racks, Maytag ran the detergent dispenser in series with the heating element. The resistance of the element lowered the voltage for the bi-metal heat/operated release latch in the detergent dispenser.

If your dispenser solenoid is 120v, momentarily connect it to line voltage and see if a couple of drops of rinse agent are released. If not, you may have to clean the nozzle with a large needle and/or attempt to clean the valve body.

By the way, I grew up in a house that was built in 1954, which had a septic system AND a water softener. My parents had it installed when the house was new. Later, two of my own homes were on a septic system and I had a softener installed.

There is zero effect, absolutely zero, of a softener affecting your system in any way. It tells you this when you read the softener's instruction/installation manual. I can confirm with many decades of experiencing softener on a septic system that it does nothing derogatory, in any way. You won't even know its there.

In the long run, in may help your septic system, as you will greatly cut down on the amount of detergents you use, as soft water requires lesser amounts. You will also not be using the harsh chemicals to clean your fixtures (faucets, sinks, tub, shower stall, etc.) as they will have no longer hard water or soap scum deposits occurring on them.

Barry


Post# 1136848 , Reply# 22   12/22/2021 at 09:15 (848 days old) by bgregoire (Canada)        

@reactor: Thanks again for all the tips. I tried running the solenoid directly on 120v, and its running like a charm now!

Its been a few weeks, and although the white film is much less a problem than before, I think I do need to keep using Borax (hard water), and I now understand that the best solution would be to add it in the main wash cycle as mentionned above. I don't have the patience to do that however!



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