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Thread Number: 89223
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Help! Maytag A-208 outer tub |
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| Post# 1138103 1/1/2022 at 20:28 (837 days old) by Thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
Hi there! I have a 1978 Maytag A-208 that I am restoring. Internally, there is very little rust. However, there is rust in the worst possible place: the outer tub. I would just patch it, but it is at the top where the two pieces of the outer tub connect. I had noticed in the tests before I took it apart, that it was leaking, and that the water level only dropped about a half inch or so. A leak from that seal would explain why. Do I have to replace the outer tub, or can I patch it without it leaking? If it has to be replaced, does anyone have a spare? I’ll be at the storage unit that the washer is in tomorrow to get some pictures of the rust hole so you can see what I’m talking about.
Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
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| Post# 1138210 , Reply# 1 1/2/2022 at 19:58 (836 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Here’s a picture of the rusty hole in the tub. As you can see, it is right where the two pieces meet. My concern with a patch is that it won’t be even, and could leak as a result. I’ve also included photos of the restoration progress. The gold paint on the control panels has worn off, so I resprayed it blue. I’m aware that this never came from the factory that way, but I feel it will go better with the pink paint job both will be receiving at some point in the future. Any advice on the outer tub is appreciated. Thanks,
Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1138214 , Reply# 2 1/2/2022 at 20:26 (836 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
That’s a pretty good rust spot in a bad place. If you are restoring these machines I would try to find another standard capacity washer that is maybe beat up externally and has a good tub in it. These standard capacity Maytag machines are still very common to come across and I’m sure you could find a parts machine for a great price depending on your completion time frame. I’m sure with the right tenacity yours could be fixed but in my opinion there are too many of those still out there with good parts on them if you are restoring these for the long run. I can’t speak for everyone but when I go through a machine it will be so that I don’t have to work on it again anytime soon and I have no worries about it’s dependability.
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Post# 1138215 , Reply# 3 1/2/2022 at 20:33 (836 days old) by pulltostart  (Mobile, AL) |
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| Post# 1138312 , Reply# 5 1/3/2022 at 18:13 (835 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Repairguy: That’s the same reason I’m going through them. I want them to be reliable enough to daily drive, and to look good. I’ve considered getting a parts machine, but in my area, vintage washers period, even standard capacity Maytags, don’t come up that often. On top of that, my area has notoriously hard water, which is really hard on washers. My main concern is that if I buy a parts machine, that it’ll have rust in the outer tub as well. I looked at the bottom of the tub, and there’s some rust there, too.
Pull to start: Thanks for the compliment! The main reason I’m doing a pink paint job is because of the fact that the original paint is really beat up, and if I’m going to spend a bunch of money on a paint job, I want it to be something unique. Besides, I’ve always wanted a pink washer and dryer. Good-Shepherd: I thought it looked a little bit brighter than the Maytag blue, but I feel it will go better with the pink paint job that both will get in the future. Thanks for the tip on the rust spots! There’s some smaller ones on other parts of the tub that I can seal this way if need be. Is there any way I can tell a parts machine in good condition from one that the tub is rusted out? Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1138316 , Reply# 6 1/3/2022 at 18:30 (835 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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These standard capacity machines were built into the nineties so it doesn’t have to be a center dial machine for the parts to be compatible. I’ve often asked the seller if they mind if I open the front cover to inspect. Taking out the two front panel screws and removing the front cover is simple and most sellers don’t have a problem with me doing that. Of course I do that in person and never ask them to do it for me.
I started doing that after I bought an A606 that was said to run perfectly but when I got it home it leaked water due to the tub rusted out where the pump hose connects to it. I want to believe that the seller was telling the truth and that it happened during transport which is very possible. It was very rusty underneath though. | ||
| Post# 1138333 , Reply# 7 1/3/2022 at 20:38 (835 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Post# 1138348 , Reply# 8 1/4/2022 at 00:36 (835 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn) |
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Blue paint..... | ||
| Post# 1138776 , Reply# 9 1/8/2022 at 20:09 (830 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Repairguy
Even the 80’s models that aren’t central dial are hard to find in my area. The most vintage things you see in my area at any given time are a few 90’s to 2000’s Maytags and several direct drives. Other than that it’s just a bunch of modern junk. I’m not going to give up though. I’ll find one eventually. qsd-dan Thanks for the info! That helps a lot. By the way, nice profile pic. I just love these central-dial maytags. Robbinsandmyers Thanks for the info! I’ll have to remember that in the future. I was back at the storage unit today trying to get the brake and damper separated, and the motor and pulley off. Neither one came loose. For the motor pulley, I’m going to go to an auto part store and rent a puller. The damper/brake is another matter, however. I made the mistake of dismantling the machine BEFORE separating the two. That said, I now realize that this makes this more difficult. I could probably put it back together enough to get that thing off with the right tools, but I really don’t want to. Is there any way to separate the brake and damper without doing this? If I must, I will, but I don’t relish the idea. By the way, on the 80’s machines with the black control panels, which ones have a standard capacity tub? I think it is if they have only 3 water level selections, or an infinite switch with just small medium and large labels. Is this the case? Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1138777 , Reply# 10 1/8/2022 at 20:09 (830 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Repairguy
Even the 80’s models that aren’t central dial are hard to find in my area. The most vintage things you see in my area at any given time are a few 90’s to 2000’s Maytags and several direct drives. Other than that it’s just a bunch of modern junk. I’m not going to give up though. I’ll find one eventually. qsd-dan Thanks for the info! That helps a lot. By the way, nice profile pic. I just love these central-dial maytags. Robbinsandmyers Thanks for the info! I’ll have to remember that in the future. I was back at the storage unit today trying to get the brake and damper separated, and the motor and pulley off. Neither one came loose. For the motor pulley, I’m going to go to an auto part store and rent a puller. The damper/brake is another matter, however. I made the mistake of dismantling the machine BEFORE separating the two. That said, I now realize that this makes this more difficult. I could probably put it back together enough to get that thing off with the right tools, but I really don’t want to. Is there any way to separate the brake and damper without doing this? If I must, I will, but I don’t relish the idea. By the way, on the 80’s machines with the black control panels, which ones have a standard capacity tub? I think it is if they have only 3 water level selections, or an infinite switch with just small medium and large labels. Is this the case? Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1138779 , Reply# 11 1/8/2022 at 20:23 (830 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Make sure you remove the Allen head screw that holds the pulley to the motor.
Motor pulley removal: Spray some penetrating oil from the top of the motor pulley/shaft and let it soak for 10 minutes or so. Use a rubber mallet or hammer and tap the pulley towards the motor. This will force the penetrating oil through the motor pulley. The pulley should slide off easy after that.
Standard Capacity Tubs. Yes, 3 button water level switch is a guaranteed standard capacity tub. The standard capacity tub machines that have an infinite water level switch will be labeled with "Large" for the highest water level rather than "Extra Large" for the bigger tubs.
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Post# 1138823 , Reply# 12 1/9/2022 at 11:08 (829 days old) by kenwashesmonday (Carlstadt, NJ) |
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I believe the early A806 & A606 big tub machines had only 3 water levels for the first few years starting in 1966. | ||
| Post# 1138844 , Reply# 13 1/9/2022 at 17:14 (829 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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qsd-dan
Great, thanks for the info! I’m trying to check Facebook marketplace daily, as vintage washers in my area are usually cheap and get gone quickly. I got lucky with my A-208, and the person who stepped up before me backed out. (Mind you, I sent a message within 5 hours of the machine being listed.). When I do see the 80’s maytags, there usually either too far away or a large capacity model. I am truly envious of those who live in areas where vintage washers are readily available. kenwashesmonday Thanks for the info! I’ll have to keep that in mind when searching for a donor machine. However, the parts machine most likely won’t be central dial. If there’s one machine I can’t bring myself to part out, it’s a central dial Maytag. Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1139825 , Reply# 14 1/19/2022 at 18:05 (819 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Okay, so...
I’ve decided to tackle the transmission first. It was agitating sluggish when it was cold, but once it warmed up, it was fine. The belts were tight, so I believe it was due to 43-year-old oil. I have obtained the O-ring seals, and the oil. However, I still need the following things that I couldn’t find anywhere. The transmission gasket part number 22210632, water deflector part number 22001586, center shaft instillation tool part number 38555, and the clamping nut, part number 2-11210. If anyone has one they could sell me, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
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Post# 1139829 , Reply# 15 1/19/2022 at 19:03 (819 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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| Post# 1140095 , Reply# 17 1/22/2022 at 17:01 (816 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Update...
I found the transmission gasket at PWS laundry. If anyone else needs one, I’d get one now as they are NLA everywhere else.
Goatfarmer... As much as I would love to have more than one vintage washer, my space just won’t allow it. I’m lucky I was able to keep the ones I’ve got. It almost didn’t happen. Good-Shepherd... I could swap everything over, however, truth be told, I prefer the standard capacity for performance and nostalgic reasons. Not to mention, I’d have to have a different water level switch and a different wiring harness. I already have the Spanner wrench. The tool I’m talking about is used to install the shaft in the transmission. Thanks for the link, I really appreciate it! I’ll definitely use it in the tub seal replacement. I’m thinking that I’ll focus on obtaining the new parts before the outer tub, as I don’t have any time limit to restore the machine, and I don’t trust Whirlpool not to discontinue more parts than they already have. I’m still concerned about buying a machine this old for an outer tub, as mine looked perfectly fine with the front off. It wasn’t until I took the metal band off that I fount it was rusted out. I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it. Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1140825 , Reply# 18 1/31/2022 at 18:56 (807 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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It never ends...
I got an E-Mail from PWS stating that the part is discontinued (go figure), despite saying available on their website. I’m trying to get one from A-1 appliance now. If I get the same result, I think I might scream. (I guess I better never attempt to find parts for something like a Frigidaire unimatic, LOL). Anyways, is there something else I can use to seal the two halves of the transmission casing, such as some gasket maker or sealer of the like? Or will I have to just painstakingly cut a gasket out of a piece of rubber or something? On the bright side, the transmission is actually in really good shape on the inside. No visible rust, or damage to any of the gears. My dad and I even got the groove pin out of the agitator shaft without destroying it! I am aware that removing this shaft isn’t a great idea, but the upper seal looked just sketchy enough that I didn’t trust it. Given that it’s the only thing between the water and transmission if the stem seal fails, I didn’t want to chance it. Besides, it’ll make it easier to coat the agitator shaft in POR-15. The oil was a goopy mess, but other than that, everything is perfect. Now, the only thing holding me up is that gasket. I’ve got everything else I need to rebuild this transmission. Once I sort out this crazy gasket, I can focus on other things, like the tub seal and whatnot. By the way, is there any special trick to installing the lower O-ring seal, or do you just have to fumble around with it until you get it in the groove?
Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1141426 , Reply# 19 2/6/2022 at 18:30 (801 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Ok, so...
I got the last gasket that A-1 had delivered to me this morning. I’ve already cleaned the inside of the transmission, installed both new O-ring seals, and am ready to put the top back on it. However, I was wondering if the gasket should be coated in transmission oil before instillation or not. Does it make any difference weather or not I coat it in oil? As you probably already know, the gasket between the two halves of the helictal transmission has been discontinued by Whirlpool, so I only have one shot at this.
Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1141448 , Reply# 20 2/6/2022 at 21:59 (801 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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No oil on the gasket. Clean both halves with brake clean (carb cleaner has oil in it). I smear a thin layer of RTV between the bolt holes on the upper cover. This holds the gasket in place so it doesn't fall into the transmission oil during assembly.....yeah, been there done that. Torque the cover bolts to 10 foot pounds.
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| Post# 1142214 , Reply# 21 2/14/2022 at 21:14 (793 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Progress Update...
I managed to separate the brake and the damper without reassembling the machine. I used vice grips to remove it, as I couldn’t find the tool anywhere. That said, is it advisable to use vice grips to install the brand new brake? It seems to mar the surface pretty good. I was also wondering if this damper cup was still good. I think it is, but I don’t want to take this apart again. I also managed to get the motor carriage out. I think I know why it was so hard to move. The track was rough as a result of a pretty good amount of rust. I’ve got some of the parts soaking in some rust remover, and have begun removing the rust from the baseplate with a wire brush on a drill. Speaking of the baseplate, is there a specific spray paint you would recommend for it? I want something that will adhere well, and block the rust. I don’t care how it looks, as it will be inside the machine, and won’t be seen.
qsd-Dan... Thank you so much for the info! I’ve done what you’ve suggested, and it’s way easier than doing it the old fashioned way. Work smarter not harder, right? Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
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Post# 1142245 , Reply# 22 2/15/2022 at 06:58 (792 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Maytag washer damper
The damper assembly looks good reuse it, the brake assembly does not have to be screwed in very tight, grab it with the channel locks and give it one little tap that’s all it takes it tends to self tighten it self it will never come loose in the Machine during normal use and install the small locking clip and screw.
Looks like you’re making great progress the machine should be working along soon. John L | ||
| Post# 1142281 , Reply# 23 2/15/2022 at 17:01 (792 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Wonderful! Thanks for the info! The condition of the damper was one of the main things I was worried about during this restoration, as one of the damper pads had partially torn away from the base, and was twisted at a roughly 90 degree angle to where it should have been. I do believe that I got to this machine in the nick of time, as that pad was all but gone. There were several other things like that on this machine (such as rust) that were minor problems that would have turned major before too long. By the way, where should I clamp the new brake with the channel locks? I spent around $100 on it (the old one had been squealing since I got it, and the seller said it had been doing it for a long time, so I figured it was probably shot from running without oil for so long), so I don’t want to damage it. I was also wondering how to oil the centrifugal switch and bearings on the motor (The washer has an Emerson, the dryer has a Westinghouse).
Thanks for the compliment! I really appreciate it! Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1142283 , Reply# 24 2/15/2022 at 17:36 (792 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 1142292 , Reply# 25 2/15/2022 at 18:12 (792 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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a specific spray paint I've used Krylon or Rustoleum smoke gray for the base plate. An epoxy paint would be pretty tough a well. For a primer you could use a self-etching automotive primer or a zinc based primer which is what Maytag used. | ||
| Post# 1142303 , Reply# 26 2/15/2022 at 19:51 (792 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Just remembered something else...
The thrust washer got damaged when I had to chisel the tub nut off of the machine. Is this still usable, or do I need a new or good used one? I’ve still got the same parts soaking in the Evapo-rust, I’ve just flipped them over. It doesn’t seem to work as quick as the Krud-Kutter, but it’s way cheaper, and it’s seems to be doing the job. (Krud-Kutter is close to 50¢ an ounce, so I can only afford to use it on nuts and bolts and the like). Is it advisable to soak the damper in Evapo-rust? It seems to have some corrosion on it, and I don’t want it spreading to the underside.
qsd-dan... Thanks for the tip! It feels smooth on the inside except for one tiny spot, however, there are a few small gouges. They look to me like manufacturing impurities, though. Is this spot enough to warrant a new damper? Good-shepherd... Great, thanks for the info! That’s what I’ll look for when purchasing the paint! Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
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Post# 1142313 , Reply# 27 2/15/2022 at 21:10 (792 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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SS Tub Protector This collar is to minimize damage to the porcelain wash basket where it clamps in place.
If you can straighten it out you could reuse it, but if you have a spare I wold replace it.
I don't even know your name, but you should get in touch with my friend Tim in Kentucky, he has extra MTs that he would probably give you including a few nice center dial pairs.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1142375 , Reply# 28 2/16/2022 at 16:02 (791 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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advisable to soak the damper in Evapo-rust No. Damper is aluminum, Evapo-rust probably some has kind of acidic base Some people have used metal polish to clean up the damper such as Turtle wax Metal and Chrome polish. | ||
| Post# 1142377 , Reply# 29 2/16/2022 at 16:15 (791 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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parts soaking in the Evapo-rust Be careful with that, if it has an acidic base it could strip the protective coating off parts along with the rust. MT washer legs are galvanized for example. | ||
| Post# 1144518 , Reply# 30 3/14/2022 at 15:53 (765 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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IT’S ALIVE!!!!!!!! ALIVE!!!!!
It’s been a while since I provided an update, so I figured now would be a good time. Since I last posted, I have removed rust from and painted the base frame and part of the cabinet, as well as all the hardware. I’ve also installed a toggle switch to allow me to bypass the lid switch at any given time. In the process of reassembling the machine, I’ve replaced the tub brake, belts, brake bearing, motor glides (I added 2 extra springs to the carriage), damper pads, and water switch hose. I’ve reassembled it just enough to test the transmission, and I’m happy to say it works. I’m not really able to go any farther until I sort out this outer tub. I’m still keeping an eye on Facebook marketplace, but I have yet to see anything. However, I do know a local laundromat owner with rows and rows of standard capacity coin-op Maytags. I’m considering buying one of those machines, and welding the lip from it to my outer tub, as the commercial washers don’t have a bleach dispenser. Is it advisable to do this, and if so, what is the best way to seal it so it doesn’t rust?
Combo52... Thanks for the advice! I managed to get it reasonably straight. Unless I end up with a parts machine, that’s probably as good as it’s gonna get, as I can’t find the part anywhere online. As far as contacting Tim, that would be wonderful. What is the best way to do that? Good-Shepherd... Thanks for the info. I was leery of the hardware after soaking it, so I sprayed everything with some clear spray paint to coat it. I decided not to worry about cleaning the damper on the outside, as it won’t be visible with the machine together. Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1144522 , Reply# 31 3/14/2022 at 16:36 (765 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1144527 , Reply# 32 3/14/2022 at 18:12 (765 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Post# 1144582 , Reply# 33 3/15/2022 at 15:07 (764 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn) |
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For a moment there.......... | ||
| Post# 1144684 , Reply# 34 3/16/2022 at 14:14 (763 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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More accomplished...
I’ve got a new water injector installed, complete with new hoses, and a new sleeve. I blew in the water valves to make sure I wired them correctly, and I did. At this point, the only thing holding me back is the outer tub. It’s been a lot of fun working on it so far.
Repairguy... Thanks for the compliment! It means a lot after working so hard and spending so much money on a machine. Combo52... Thanks! I sent you an E-mail with the information. robbinsandmyers... LOL! I meant to add in my previous post that the heater was there so that I could paint, as it was about 30 degrees outside, and about 52 in the garage, which was too cold for the paint to dry properly. Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1147096 , Reply# 35 4/21/2022 at 15:46 (727 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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It’s been a while...
But I’m back! It seems that a few of the pictures were lost, possibly due to the hacking that happened a couple months ago, so I’ve reposted them. Currently, I’m working on patching the existing outer tub with some JB Water Weld. (I REALLY don’t want to part out another machine if I can avoid it) I’m wondering if I could bend the clamp in the spot that has been patched, as I don’t want to file the JB Weld so thin that it breaks from the pressure of the clamp. Once I bend the clamp, I can’t straighten it again, and I don’t want to ruin it in vain. If all else fails, is it advisable to smear a thin layer of gasket maker where the seal meets the two pieces of the tub in the area that is patched to stop it from leaking? (It currently leaks there, but it’s nowhere near as bad as it was with that hole in the tub.)
Thanks, Thatwasherguy. | ||
| Post# 1148170 , Reply# 37 5/6/2022 at 23:12 (712 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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Sweet!
Thanks for the info! I just got done putting the outer tub back in and installing the new bearing and seal with the instructions in the linked thread. (It was WAYYYY more informative and helpful than the half-sheet of paper included with the kit, LOL.). At this point, I think there’s only one more thing I need to know in order to get this thing going. The plastic deflector for the bleach port on the outer tub was brittle from years of exposure to the various laundry chemicals it was exposed to for 43 years before I got the machine, and it broke when I removed it to rust-proof the port. Is this a critical part, or can I run the machine without it? (The LAST thing I want is to put this machine back together only to find water gurgling out of the bleach dispenser.). I looked up the part number online, (I bought a bunch of Maytag service manuals a while back, and have service manuals and parts catalogs to everything from AMP’s to New Generations.). but found nothing. If it is a critical part, does anyone have one they’d be willing to sell?
Thanks in advance, Thatwasherguy.
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| Post# 1148173 , Reply# 38 5/6/2022 at 23:30 (712 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 1148323 , Reply# 39 5/8/2022 at 19:27 (710 days old) by thatwasherguy (Kentucky) | ||
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SHE’S RUNNING!!!
My Cinderella is finally running again! Thank you all so much for the help. Without it, I don’t know where I’d be right now. I’m just so grateful that I’m not the only one who loves these vintage washers. It doesn’t appear that the bleach port not having the deflector will be a problem, so I’m gonna go ahead and put the lid back on the tub. I didn’t for the first small load test, and quickly regretted it when it went into spin. At least I was able to turn it off before water got into the motor. I’m momentarily letting it dry out before I finish draining it. I’m about to post a few before and after pictures in another thread for anyone that wants to see them.
Thanks, Thatwasherguy. CLICK HERE TO GO TO thatwasherguy's LINK | ||
| Post# 1148325 , Reply# 40 5/8/2022 at 19:56 (710 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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