Thread Number: 89587
/ Tag: Ranges, Stoves, Ovens
GE P7 part identification help |
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Post# 1141847 , Reply# 1   2/10/2022 at 17:42 (797 days old) by luxflairguy (Wilmington NC)   |   | |
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You say ONE of the ovens has stopped working but don' tell us if its the larger self cleaning oven or the smaller non SC oven. Also a picture of the the serial # plate would help! |
Post# 1141854 , Reply# 3   2/10/2022 at 18:13 (797 days old) by luxflairguy (Wilmington NC)   |   | |
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Thank you! This will help our experts give you an answer! I wish I was one of them! |
Post# 1141855 , Reply# 4   2/10/2022 at 18:28 (797 days old) by lee333 (USA)   |   | |
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THe device in it's normal location. |
Post# 1141856 , Reply# 5   2/10/2022 at 18:29 (797 days old) by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)   |   | |
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Post# 1141858 , Reply# 6   2/10/2022 at 19:20 (797 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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That over temperature switch should have continuity between the two terminals that the red wires are attached to, if it doesn’t it is bad and needs to be replaced.
These were used on the earlier GE ovens. The other part of the switch locks out the lock solenoid and turns on the fan when it gets up to cleaning temperature. And hopefully an eBay search will turn it up under that part number if you can’t find it let me know I might have a good used one. John L |
Post# 1141920 , Reply# 8   2/11/2022 at 16:51 (796 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The part of the switch that the two red wires attached to is a safety for both the cleaning cycle and for the oven in general keeps the oven temperature from going over about 1000° if something goes wrong with the control system.
Most ovens had no overtemperature safety system especially back when the stove is made so you’d be reasonably safe to bypass it you could even use the clean cycle. Of course officially I can’t recommend that you do that. |