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Thread Number: 89720
/ Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
Help, it's a flood! My KA KDC-17 dishwasher keeps overflowing... |
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Post# 1143271 , Reply# 1 2/27/2022 at 06:50 (781 days old) by combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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You Need A Inlet Valve Thanks for the great description of the problem.
This was a problem with DWs & washers in the 60s and 70s, the problem all but went away in the 80s and 90s but in the 2000s we are seeing it quite often.
It can really make a mess and cause a lot of property damage, when a valve sticks open like this someone is going to have to turn off the water supply.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1143320 , Reply# 2 2/27/2022 at 14:16 (781 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1143362 , Reply# 4 2/28/2022 at 00:11 (781 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 If water runs from the inlet valve when the supply faucet is open but the dishwasher is Off, or even set to run a cycle but the door is open to interrupt it from running ... then the machine's inlet valve is the fault. Normal fill level is timed (2 mins). There's a pressure switch for overfill protection ... but it's electrical (interrupts current to the valve) so won't stop the water flow if the inlet valve is physically stuck open ... which is evidenced that you have to close the supply faucet to stop the flow. | ||
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Post# 1143371 , Reply# 5 2/28/2022 at 02:40 (780 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR) |
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eBay | ||
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Post# 1143376 , Reply# 8 2/28/2022 at 06:16 (780 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR) |
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My opinion
If it were me I would order the one with the extra parts because it looks like it came right out of the box and has the paperwork. The paperwork should help you to replace the original valve and what to do with the extra wires. I replaced one years ago but honestly, I can't remember what I did with the extra wires.
The extra parts look like they are for the connection to the water line. You may or may not need them but for the extra couple of dollars I personally think that one is a better buy. Both sellers have good feedback so I wouldn't have any pause from that aspect. | ||
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Post# 1143384 , Reply# 9 2/28/2022 at 09:33 (780 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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The extra parts are fittings/adapters to connect the supply line (between the faucet and valve) to the valve. Note that your original valve has two solenoids and double wiring connects to it accordingly. The twin-fill valve was touted by KA as increaing the odds of an overflow to "about a million to one". :-) Both solenoids open for filling so you need only one set of wires on the new valve, tape off the other wires. May be that only one of the dual solenoids is wired through the pressure switch as a back-up to shut off on an overfill situation ... someone else can clarify that? Drain periods are 1 minute (one timer increment) and occur after every wash or rinse period ... 5 drains around the full timer sequence. Being unmarked on the dial, they can be tricky to find until one has some experience manually handling the timer. | ||
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Post# 1143386 , Reply# 10 2/28/2022 at 10:56 (780 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Kitchen a dishwasher dual fill valves
As Glenn mentioned these were supposed to almost eliminate the possibility of a flood but in reality they just broke down twice as often and could still flood.
The solenoids were always wired in parallel and both were always wired through the overflow safety system. To the owner of this KitchenAid dishwasher these valves can just fail at random it had nothing to do with your playing with the cycling etc. you’re kind of over thinking the problem you just have a bad inlet valve that needs to be changed. John L | ||
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