Thread Number: 89803  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
need help with older Kenmore belt drive
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Post# 1144372   3/12/2022 at 11:01 (747 days old) by deepforest (Lasqueti Island BC)        

My older (mid seventies) belt drive Kenmore washer stopped pumping and spinning. It's a suds saver.I've replaced wigwag,hot and cold water in valve,water level switch,water temp. switch and tightend belt with no change. When the timer goes to pump the wigwag buzzes but the motor does not spin and does not pump out. Does this in all cycles. Any help would be appreciated. thank you




Post# 1144383 , Reply# 1   3/12/2022 at 14:18 (747 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Paging @combo 52


Post# 1144384 , Reply# 2   3/12/2022 at 14:35 (747 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Non-draining non-spitting mid 70s Belt Dr., Kenmore washer

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Hi I can’t really figure out what is going on from your description of the problem.

Assuming the machine goes through the wash cycle agitating fine when it goes to drain both wigwag solenoid‘s are off there shouldn’t be any buzzing there the agitate solenoid on the right side looking in from the rear should D energize the cam bar should move forward and switch the pump into a drain mode the machine should pump out for either two or four minutes depending on the model, after that the spin solenoid on the left side would be energized causing the cam bar to move to the rear and start the clutch engagement and caused the machine to spin .

Take another look and see if you can give me a better description I might be able to tell you what’s wrong.


Post# 1144387 , Reply# 3   3/12/2022 at 15:13 (747 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Note the machine is stated as a suds saver model.

Agitation shifting (not spin shifting) is what triggers drain ... no drain during agitation, drain when not agitating.  The end of the agitation cam bar is mounted to the pump flapper valve arm and moves it to drain (or not).


Post# 1144395 , Reply# 4   3/12/2022 at 16:53 (747 days old) by deepforest (Lasqueti Island BC)        

Sorry for not explaining things better. It agitates fine, then pumps and recirculates for about 2 minutes. Then nothing seems to happen. Washer is still full of water. At that point seems like motor is not getting power so doesn't rotate. . The timer keeps moving things along to rinse and agitate again. At no point does the machine pump out completely or go into spin mode, So machine finishes and turns off with a full tub of water. Doesn't seem to matter which wash mode it's in. Can't see any broken wires. thanks so much for helping

Post# 1144396 , Reply# 5   3/12/2022 at 17:06 (747 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

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Hi Don, we’re starting to get somewhere, what do you mean that the machine recirculate for a while does this washer have a manual lint filter that water continues to come through?

It sounds like you might have a bad water pump, but that does not explain why the motor would stop the motor should not stop until the machine goes to refill for the rinse cycle assuming it emptied in the first place.

Is the machine draining at all?

It’s always helpful if you post the model number so we could tell exactly what machine we’re trying to help you with

Thanks we will get to the bottom of this.

John L


Post# 1144401 , Reply# 6   3/12/2022 at 19:35 (747 days old) by deepforest (Lasqueti Island BC)        

Hi John: Yes It does have a removable lint filter trap that water circulates through when it agitates. No,the machine doesn't drain completely. After agitation It pumps out through the drain hose at the same time water circulates through the lint trap, but water level only goes down half way, then it stops with no spin. At that point the motor stops with no voltage at the contacts. Eventually it fills again (rinse mode?) Motor starts, agitates a bit, pumps out part way, does not spin and stops with a partially full tub. I also ran it with the wires disconnected from the suds saver valve but it didn't make any difference. The model # plate is hard to read but I can see 5021080 and JH16619. Also 120 and 9.8 which I assume are the voltage and amperage.I'm assuming this is a Canadian model. Appreciating all your help,John----Don

Post# 1144407 , Reply# 7   3/12/2022 at 21:20 (747 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

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If it pumps out at a good normal speed and the motor just quits when the water level switch resets you have a bad timer, I don’t recognize the model numbers on the Canadian machines, maybe somebody else can look that up.

Post# 1144468 , Reply# 8   3/13/2022 at 16:36 (746 days old) by deepforest (Lasqueti Island BC)        

I was hoping it wasn't the timer. I've had it apart and cleaned up the points. One of them was a little bit burnt. The drum looks good-no broken fins. The motor seems to advance properly. Have there been any threads on timer repair? Do you know if you can still get them rebuilt or if they are available new? The number on the timer is 20010218. I'm really hoping to get this machine up and running. Our dirty laundry is really starting to pile up.I got this machine from my neighbour who bought it new in the mid seventies. I've had a number of these old belt drives for the last 35 years. My last runner finally bit the dust with a rusted out outer tub. Is it still possible to get the tub seal and basket drive seals? -- Thanks again for all your help ---Don

Post# 1144469 , Reply# 9   3/13/2022 at 16:42 (746 days old) by Washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai’i)        
Am Having Similar Problem with ‘74 LK

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I just replaced the wig-wag and the things that slide on the cam bars in my ‘74 Lady Kenmore. I haven’t done a water test so don’t know about agitation, but when I select a spin cycle, it just buzzes like it’s going to engage into spin but doesn’t. Any ideas?

Thanks.


Post# 1144479 , Reply# 10   3/13/2022 at 20:00 (746 days old) by 114jwh (Vancouver)        
Kenmore Washer Timer 20010218

Hi Don

20010218 is an Inglis part number. Looking this up on the Amre Supply website shows NLA of course and it subs to Whirlpool PN 373825 which also appears to be NLA. However on the page it also lists other old corresponding PNs and one is 365966 which does appear to be available on eBay. However, no clue on the accuracy of this database and whether or not it is truly a good substitute.

There is a timer repair service in Canada - no experience with them but might be an option to explore.

You mentioned you tightened the belt - make sure there is still about 1/2 inch deflection either way and everything still turns nicely. Those pumps are notorious for seizing up so if you do end up getting this fixed might be a good idea to have a spare pump on hand if its never been changed.

Good luck


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