Thread Number: 89852  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
Simpson Easydry
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Post# 1144851   3/19/2022 at 01:01 (321 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

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I got this Simpson easydry for free today all it need was a new lead and a fan belt (luckily I had spares)

Here are some photos:

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 5         View Full Size

Post# 1144853 , Reply# 1   3/19/2022 at 01:24 (321 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

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Another issue Iíve found is that the dryer doesnít switch to cool-down and just turns on the buzzer and then ends the cycle, also doesnít seem to switch off the element or that could just be me.

Post# 1144854 , Reply# 2   3/19/2022 at 01:55 (321 days old) by aussie-plugs (Melbourne, Australia)        
Lovely 70's/80's machine ...

simple ... and therefore longlived!

I notice the foam lint filter isn't in the photo ... or did this model have a wire mesh? You'll have a lot of dust bunnies to chase if something isn't in place ...

Have fun with your latest toy!

Post# 1144855 , Reply# 3   3/19/2022 at 01:58 (321 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

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There was no lint filter, donít have any spares for this model.

Just a question, how do I remove the circuit board on this machine as itís not switching to cool-down and the element is staying on.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 1144856 , Reply# 4   3/19/2022 at 03:49 (321 days old) by aussie-plugs (Melbourne, Australia)        
Don't know ...

... sorry

Post# 1144859 , Reply# 5   3/19/2022 at 08:15 (321 days old) by gizmo (Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Australia)        

Lovely dryer. I have never seen one of this version, only ever seen timed dry not auto.


1. I see a burned wire and a scorch mark in photo 2 of reply #3. Brown wire indicates active wire. So you may have had a short to earth where that burn mark is. This may have damaged the electronics. I don't see evidence of wire rubbing through, may have been a mouse bite a wire??


2. I think you have to separate the front panel from the rest of the dryer - those small black hex screw heads in photo 1 of reply 3. That should give you access to the screw or screws holding that circuit board.


3. Have you ever reassembled one of these Simpson dryers? They are a pain in the arse. You have to thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley. If the belt is even slightly out of alignment, the moment you rotate the drum, the belt will slip sideways and the tensioner will ping off. The drum will have a black mark around it where the belt has run, DON'T clean it off. Use that black mark to show you exactly where the belt lines up. If the belt is a couple of cm out of whack, the tensioner will come off when the drum moves. I find Hoover dryers of the same vintage much easier to work on.


4. The sheetmetal edges where you will have to take off the front panel may be SHARP. Be careful, wear leather gloves. I severed a tendon in my hand on a similar edge many years ago. (Actually on a UK Hotpoint washer.)


Before going in too far, are you SURE the element is staying on? from vague memory these dryers take quite a while to cool down. If you have a meter to monitor power consumption, watch how many watts the dryer uses during heating and during cool down phase. Should be over  2000 watts heating, drop to maybe 200 to 300 for motor only.


If the heating is definitely stuck on, are you able to do circuit board work? I may be able to help if you like. I'm not a professional, just a competent amateur. I doubt the board would still be available. I'd suspect a fried transistor or a stuck relay.


Post# 1144880 , Reply# 6   3/19/2022 at 16:02 (321 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        
Thanks gizmo.

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These Simpson dryers are the only dryers I have worked on, I agree that the drum belts are a pain to get on.
But accessing the timer is ver annoying and getting the back panel out of the way is annoying to do without a photo. Never worked on any Hoover dryer, but I doubt they are nearly as reliable as these.

I have gotten scrapes from the sharp edges but nothing sever yet.

The circuit board donít seem to be that complicated but there are some chips on it with 10 or more legs (this dryer has very weird heat sensors, there is one on the bottom left side at the rear and 2 where the fan is).
This dryer does not have any relays, I find that very interesting. But Iím wondering if the ďcoolingĒ globe is burnt out and thatís why Iím having these issues.

I do not have a watt meter but I do have something that can test if a wire is live wirelessly.

The burnt wire made a hole in the dryers element! Wonder if that cooked something on the circuit board. Something else is that dryer had no fan belt and I donít mean that it had a broken one I mean it was gone, so I wonder if that cooked a few components on the control board.

I do have a multimeter but it is vintage (not digital) so testing the components might be a problem but I think if anything died it would be visible.

Post# 1144891 , Reply# 7   3/19/2022 at 19:52 (321 days old) by gizmo (Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Australia)        

OK if you have a burnt element you need to replace it. It is not safe.


That may be your problem - it is common enough that the element is always fed the active (240V) wire and the switching is done on the neutral. I don't like that way of wiring, but it is common. Neutral and earth are electrically equivalent, so a short to earth on the Neutral side is the same as it being permanently ON. This would only work if you don't have an earth leakage breaker (RCD) in your house wiring. If you have an RCD in your house wiring, then a short to earth on the neutral side would trip the breaker, but if you don't have an RCD (also commonly called a safety switch) then the element may be permanently on. This would be mighty unusual but if the element has shorted to earth very close to the neutral terminal then it may describe your symptoms.


There is no such thing as a "cooling globe." The cool down phase is done just by shutting off the heating element for the last few minutes of the cycle, so that room temperature air is blown through the dryer to cool the clothes, as they are less likely to wrinkle badly if cooled down when the dryer stops. Mechanical (non-electronic) dryer timers have two switches inside, one switches off at about 10 minutes before the end, the other is live right to the end. The first one is the heating element, the second is motor and timer motor (and fan if it uses a separate fan motor.)


"Weird" heat sensors are probably thermistors. Normal in electronically controlled washers and dryers. They don't actually switch circuits, they just feed temperature information back to the computer chip that is running the whole circus. If the dryer has no relays on the circuit board then switching will be done by triacs which are (sort of) electronic switches.


Buy one of those power meters. You are flying blind without one.

Post# 1144893 , Reply# 8   3/19/2022 at 20:56 (321 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        
May not have been clear

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I meant the heating element shield also the cooling globe is the light that indicates if itís on cooling heating or if itís on.

I am going to buy one of those watt meters.

I might have a go at pulling it apart today otherwise it will have to wait

Post# 1144896 , Reply# 9   3/19/2022 at 22:03 (320 days old) by Smartdrive1100 (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia)        

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I think the element staying on when it ended itís cycle as t actually happening, because I let it run for 20s and then turned it off and pulled the plug and when I was pulling it apart the whole machine was hot to the touch.

But not having a cool-down/air dry cycle is an issue.

I will take the control board out though and check everything.

Post# 1144971 , Reply# 10   3/21/2022 at 07:47 (319 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
No Cool Down On Compact Dryer

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Element Staying On, No Cool Down, Check the element for a short to ground, very common problem on lots of dryers.


Te burned wire on the door is just a bad wire connection and door switch, very common problem on European style dryers because they often run the heater current through the door switch which causes failures of this kind, this fault does not indicate any other problem with the dryer.


John L.

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