Thread Number: 90281
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Parts Needed For Whirlpool Washer Circa 1988 |
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Post# 1148568 , Reply# 1   5/12/2022 at 14:11 (714 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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Post# 1148572 , Reply# 2   5/12/2022 at 15:17 (714 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Those parts you cited can be found by searching online. There are many parts sources that sell online. WP661600 is the 2-speed motor. It comes up as out-of-stock at some sources but can be ordered and ship when available (some sources state the expected lead-time). The timer knob is two parts -- a skirt with the pointer, and a knob to turn it and pull-on/push-off. The skirt/pointer (which presses onto the shaft) is WP64138. The knob (which screws on to the shaft) is W10801656. Both are NLA (no longer available). Some sources may have a limited supply on-hand. Can also search eBay for used items, both motor and knob(s). Some other styles/color/finish of knob may substitute for the screw-on part, or possibly both. What are the specific symptoms exhibited regards to the suspected bad motor? Lack of both agitation and spin can be a simple motor coupler (equivalent to a belt) rather than the motor directly. |
Post# 1148597 , Reply# 4   5/12/2022 at 21:13 (713 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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The good news is that this washer design was made from 1981-2010. There was still some stack laundry using this design but I believe that went away in 2017. So there are many parts out there for these machines. The internet has helped most of us keep our collections of machines going via NOS(new old stock) parts which are new parts that may have sat on a shelf for many years unsold until the inventory was liquidated and put on the internet.
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Post# 1148612 , Reply# 5   5/13/2022 at 01:42 (713 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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There is no belt as such. It's a two-piece cog with a rubber bushing between the halves that mates the motor shaft to the transmission shaft. Is the motor humming such that it's stuck or jammed? Or is the humming sound the motor in fact running but the machine just doesn't agitate or spin? Does it drain? The motor has dual drive shafts, one on the back, one on the front. The rear motor shaft drives the transmission via the coupler. The pump mounts directly to the front shaft, so the machine will drain when the motor runs accordingly even if the coupler is broken (unless the pump and coupler are coincidentally both broken). Newer-style couplers (although they were introduced some years ago) have metal reinforcement inserts so as to be more robust against cracking. If the motor is humming but really not running, then there could be some other electrical problem such as a bad capacitor or motor start switch, or a burned wire. |
Post# 1148617 , Reply# 6   5/13/2022 at 06:17 (713 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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I am not a fan of the couplings with metal inserts or the heavy duty piece that goes between. Although a pain to have to change when it fails, a drive coupling on any piece of machinery is designed to be the weak spot to protect what it couples together. I prefer the original design personally. I’ve never seen so many ruined motor and transmission shafts because of the metal inserts and all you can do is replace the motor, transmission, or part out the machine.
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Post# 1148618 , Reply# 7   5/13/2022 at 06:20 (713 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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It very likely is a bad motor from what you and the repair guy are saying, WP had a lot of problems with motor bearings around this time period.
Good News is the motor is really easy to change, Bad News is a new one is costly, I would put in a used one but even a used one may cost $100 with shipping.
John L. |
Post# 1148870 , Reply# 10   5/16/2022 at 21:39 (709 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)   |   | |
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