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Thread Number: 91029
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag Washer, A710 bleach inlet rusted away ... |
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| Post# 1155424 , Reply# 1 7/28/2022 at 20:56 (636 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
I would effectively cover the hole in the tub by first applying a rust killer. Next I would apply a marine 2 part epoxy and once cured I would apply an industrial sealant. It would do away with the bleach dispensing system but it’s the easiest way to keep your machine. When I make a repair like this I also use a sealant to block the beach tube cup port so if bleach is put in the dispenser it doesn’t land on the floor.
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| Post# 1155432 , Reply# 2 7/28/2022 at 21:55 (636 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
The right way is to find a donor machine and swap the outer tubs. Any large capacity Maytag built from 1966-1993 is a direct swap. Make sure the donor machine has the bleach dispenser if you use that. TOL machines from 1966-early 1975 have the bleach dispenser and port on the opposite side, so be aware of that.
I'd be leery on gooping epoxy on the rusted areas as a long term fix. It will prevent it from leaking if executed properly, however, if rust has made its way to the inside of the tub, this will continue to rot, and eventually fail. When it "lets go", it will cause a flood. If it fails while the machine is running during the wash/rinse cycle, the pressure switch will be activated and water will continue to flood the area until it's physically turned off. If you want to go the epoxy route, DO NOT LEAVE THE MACAHINE UNATTENDED!!! Expect it to fail at anytime and treat it as such. This is just one of the many reasons I quit using chlorine bleach almost 15 years ago. It very caustic and eats up porcelain/paint/metal and eventually causes rust. | ||
| Post# 1155435 , Reply# 3 7/28/2022 at 22:31 (636 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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I do agree that it’s not the best way but It does work when done properly. I’ve repaired many tubs over the last 30 years and to my knowledge the repair was never a problem.
Because the machine in question is 40 years old the correct way would be a complete tear down of the machine replacing the outer tub along the way with new tub bearing and seal, transmission service, damper pad lubrication, etc. Then the machine might be good for another 40 years. | ||
| Post# 1155436 , Reply# 4 7/28/2022 at 22:33 (636 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
I don’t know if this will work since I’ve never dealt with rust issues on Maytags, however I’ve dealt with rust issues on my Whirlpool before there there were a few pine holes on the outer tub and I used JB Weld Steel Stik which worked for awhile but failed about 8 months later. I ended up having the pin holes welded and haven’t had any issues since.
Having that area welded may be the best route to go since it will hold up better than epoxy and yes welding might be more expensive but will hold up much longer than any sort of epoxy will. | ||
| Post# 1155437 , Reply# 5 7/28/2022 at 22:43 (636 days old) by n6ac (California) | ||
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rusty inlet I am wondering if I can just apply a huge glob of epoxy and close off the damaged port (after de-rusting). Would epoxy be waterproof in such an application? | ||
| Post# 1155443 , Reply# 6 7/28/2022 at 23:09 (636 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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It’s supposed to be. I’m speaking of the marine epoxy that comes in a tube. You mix it like putty with your fingers and apply it when properly mixed. I usually let it set for 24 hours and it should be hard as a rock at that point. Then I cover it with a 3m industrial sealant for good measure. Once it’s cured you can check for leaks.
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Post# 1155460 , Reply# 7 7/29/2022 at 06:30 (636 days old) by combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rusted Bleach Nipple On A MT Washer If you just want to keep using this machine I would wire brush, sand etc to clean up the area and use 3M marine sealant and just seal up the hole and let it dry throughly and not use the dispenser feature.
To try fixing from the inside or replace the outer tub you are going to get into a big project on such an old machine.
John L. | ||
| Post# 1155497 , Reply# 8 7/29/2022 at 12:47 (635 days old) by n6ac (California) | ||
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Sorry, please ignore my posting "Reply# 5 7/28/2022 at 22:43" which had been queued up but unsent, then I clicked send only to then find several useful responses. | ||
| Post# 1155510 , Reply# 10 7/29/2022 at 15:34 (635 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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The part with the plastic arms needs to be secured somehow. If it gets pushed into the tub then you will have to do some major disassembly to remove it because it will cause problems. Epoxying it to what’s left of the metal should work and let it cure before going further to ensure it doesn’t fall into the tub. It is an injector nozzle for the bleach. There is nothing to unscrew here.
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| Post# 1155588 , Reply# 12 7/30/2022 at 19:03 (634 days old) by nmassman44 (Brooksville Florida) | ||
That plastic piece in the dispenser port is called a deflector. Its purpose is to allow the bleach to enter the tub and prevent the wash water being pumped up into the hose and dispenser on the top of the washer during the Swirlaway drain spin. The A510 that I had back in the 80's had the port to the tub as well but it was capped off by a rubber cap. I never use chlorine bleach so i wouldn't have any use for a bleach dispenser, but thats me.
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| Post# 1155599 , Reply# 13 7/30/2022 at 23:31 (634 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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About 12 years ago I purposely positioned the bleach deflector 180 degrees out of phase on my 712 washer when I had the tub out for curiosity sake. Every time the machine would go into spin, the bleach cup would momentarily fill with water and then drain. It would basically performing a self-cleaning cycle of itself twice per load that actually works very effectively.
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| Post# 1155741 , Reply# 15 8/1/2022 at 18:42 (632 days old) by n6ac (California) | ||
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Oh and the "terrible buzzing noise" was because I did not properly seat the drive belt on the motor pulley. | ||
| Post# 1155870 , Reply# 16 8/3/2022 at 11:50 (631 days old) by n6ac (California) | ||
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Finished epoxy task .. hopefully good to go now. | ||
| Post# 1155874 , Reply# 17 8/3/2022 at 13:15 (630 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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hopefully good to go now. Looks like the front tub bolt is leaking as well, see all that rust on the spring eyebolt. | ||
| Post# 1155879 , Reply# 18 8/3/2022 at 14:29 (630 days old) by n6ac (California) | ||
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more rust Good-Shepherd said – "Looks like the front tub bolt is leaking as well, see all that rust on the spring eyebolt." Thanks, I will take a look at that. If the nut is loosened on the outside, is the bolt captive or must it be accessed from inside (total take-apart) ?? | ||
| Post# 1155883 , Reply# 19 8/3/2022 at 15:18 (630 days old) by n6ac (California) | ||
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Aha, yes, and found piece of lead washer that had fallen away. Net on drum-bolt loosens easily, unfortunately the spring-holding eye-bolt nut below won't give, trying PB-Blaster and crossed fingers. I welcome any suggestions for sealing that drum attachment !! | ||
| Post# 1155885 , Reply# 20 8/3/2022 at 16:55 (630 days old) by n6ac (California) | ||
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Nut not Net !!! I meant "Nut on drum-bolt loosens easily", of course. | ||
| Post# 1155891 , Reply# 21 8/3/2022 at 18:34 (630 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey) | ||
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or must it be accessed from inside Yep. Better just leave it alone. Tub bolts have built in rubber gaskets, they can sometimes be salvaged with RTV sealant applied from inside the tub. | ||
| Post# 1156753 , Reply# 23 8/12/2022 at 17:43 (621 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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We went for a MVWP575GW. | ||
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Post# 1156780 , Reply# 24 8/12/2022 at 22:07 (621 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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New Maytag MVWP575GW Should be a very good choice for you life situation you will enjoy the larger capacity and cleaner and drier clothing.
While this washer will not last 40 years it will probably not have even a single problem in your light usage situation in the next 10-15 years.
Let us know what you think of it after a few months.
John L. | ||
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