Thread Number: 91246  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Suggested replacement for Miele W1986?
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Post# 1157549   8/21/2022 at 16:02 (995 days old) by scottsb (New Jersey)        

We have a Miele washer and dryer pair (Novotronic W1986 and T1576) that was in our house when we bought it, and we've loved them. I had wanted to keep them running, but unfortunately our first washer repair need ran into the wall of them being 20-year-old machines: the drain pump is dead, and no replacement or alternate parts are available anywhere I can find. (I can find the EU pump that runs on 240v, but not the US/CA/MX pump that is 120v.)

So now I'm looking for a good replacement. My constraint that I have only 240v running to the machine location (ironic given the opposite is my issue with the motor). I also have a pretty narrow space available on the table/bench that seems to have been custom built for the current Miele set.

I could probably modify/cut the table to work with a larger unit that sits directly on the floor, but I don't want to run a new circuit if I can avoid it. It seems that the current Miele models have all switched to 120v supply in the US, though. Are there any options out there that would work for me?

(The dryer from the current Miele set is working fine, but I'd also be curious on advice about whether it would be worth replacing both together regardless.)





Post# 1157561 , Reply# 1   8/21/2022 at 18:21 (995 days old) by littlegreeny (Milwaukee, WI)        

littlegreeny's profile picture
Hopefully someone here knows where you can find a new pump. If not, I suggest you go with another Miele since you are used to the European way of fabric care now. Their W1 washers with TwinDos automatic detergent dispensers are wonderful. I have the WXR/TXR860 set which is quite pricy but to me it's worth having the touch screens and the ability to customize the options and then save my favorite cycles.

Post# 1157589 , Reply# 2   8/21/2022 at 22:32 (995 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
240 Volt Drain Pump ??

combo52's profile picture

We have fixed these machines with a 120 volt pump, just ground the other lead from the pump and be sure the washer is grounded.

 

John L.


Post# 1157651 , Reply# 3   8/22/2022 at 23:41 (993 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

If you are open for some handy work and trial and error, you could try to either just replace the pump motor or the whole housing with a cheap, generic drain pump from another random washer.
The drain hose should be the same size, you might need to adapt the sump hose to the new pump and somehow fix the new housing to the frame.

Secondary option if you are electrically inclined but not mechanically would be to get a 240V drain pump from the EU, pull a new power supply from the main machine feed and use a relay to switch the 240V with the 120V coming from the control board.
The punp would run a little slow - but the machine wouldn't care much.

Of course, with any of that, make sure that it's the pump gone and and not the PCB perhaps.



Running a new circuit MIGHT not be necessary - though not up to code.
If there is a neutral there, you could run 2 120V outlets from each phase to ground.

That would make a new W1 set viable - both the washer and dryer run off of 120V lat below 15A.


If budget wasn't to tight, consider taking a look at the little giant washer and dryer from Mieles semi-professional / professional lineup.
Those run at 240V and are closer to your current machine in cycle time and offers (they can still run a boil wash while the W1 can't!).


The financially more viable most "drop in" kind if replacement would probably be Asko's current offering though.
As far as I am aware, all Asko washers and dryers run at 240V and any combination will run at 5kW total or less.
They are available in 2 sizes - and the dryers are available in vented, condenser or heatpump (my recommendation).



So, this would be the Miele professional 240V ventless set:
www.appliancesconnection....

The slightly larger (deeper), vented Asko set would be:
www.appliancesconnection....
Unfortunately, there only appears to be a vented, large dryer for Asko.

The slightly less deep Asko set that would offer a choice of dryer would be this:
www.appliancesconnection....
Heatpump dryer highly recommend over the condenser at least.



Personally wouldn't recommend the US Bosch offering - mainly due to the dryer.

But if price is a concern, then Beko/Blomberg might be interesting to you!
Those are generally considered "entry level" over here but perform well and are a good price/performance value.

A ventless, heatpump set would be:
www.appliancesconnection....

A vented set would be:
www.appliancesconnection....


Post# 1157754 , Reply# 4   8/24/2022 at 15:59 (992 days old) by canuck (Canada)        

I have an idea for you to keep your current dryer and get a new Miele W1 washer without having to do any electrical work. I have a 2 year old 240V Miele washer (the last ones made at 240V in Canada) and a 120V Miele T1 dryer. If you have a 240V splitter box from Miele that you use for your current 240V washer and 240V dryer, you can use one spot on the splitter for your current dryer and use the Miele 240V --> 120V splitter in the other 240 volt spot for the T1. I am doing this at my house but with washer being 240V and the dryer 120V. My T1 dryer came with the splitter for free so I'm not sure if a W1 washer would also come with this for free. Picture attached.

Alternatively, if you wanted to replace both machines, you can just use the Miele 240V --> 120V splitter for both the W1 and T1 without any electrical work or changes to your table.


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Post# 1157818 , Reply# 5   8/25/2022 at 08:03 (991 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
While Miele does or did produce many parts in house for their appliances, not everything comes under that heading.

Often pumps, timers, solenoid valves and other bits came from third party manufacturers.

Pumps for Miele washers of 19XX and before vintage usually were made by Hanning.

www.directrepair.eu/drain...

Sadly MieleUSA tech/customer support is no longer what it once was, so getting any information via telephone or online regarding details about parts or installation is largely verboten.

To best of my knowledge W19XX series washing machines by Miele sold in USA used 230v-240v pumps at 50hz

www.automaticwasher.org/c...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164003880712...

m.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeig...

My Miele washer is older than yours, and thus have spent more hours than care to recall sat sitting in front of computer researching and otherwise running spare parts to ground.

If you've not done so already suggest pulling electrical schematic papers from washer (should be just inside front door when swung open), and see what there is about wiring/power supply to pump.


Post# 1157823 , Reply# 6   8/25/2022 at 09:47 (991 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

I thought it would be 240V too - Wouldn't even be surprised they are actually the same as the EU just relabled as 50Hz.

Those pumps are usually 4 poles or very cheap ones now are 2 poles sometimes even.
Only real way to make pumps even cheaper is saving on copper and those motors haven't been full motors.
Making it run at the correct speed there is kinda hard - they are technically "direct drive" so no belt reduction drive possibility like on washers or tumble dryers and (with until recently virtually no exception) no speed control. So making it the correct speed with an adaption of pole numbers is "expensive" and kinda hard - it would run to slow (?) at 6 poles aswell and way to fast at 2.
3 would be a little to fast but closer.

So they probably just used a 60Hz pump and adapted the programming - torque should be similar or a little higher, just the througput a little lower.



Either way, as long as the current pump is 240V it should work as a drop in replacement.
And the pump should be labelled at least with voltage and wattage.

Worst case then would be that the connectors are different - but I don't even think that would be the case.



Nowadays, Miele outsources a LOT more.
With many of these singular components you need an entirely different production line which is very expensive keeping it up.
Outsourcing does bring problems - often quality control cause you can't really control lifecycle quality control easily and it's the thing you can easily safe on as a producer.
BUT since you now are a customer yourself get a lot of the benefits from that (if a contract is broken you are out of any liability) AND often safe money which very easily makes it worth it.

At least the water proof hoses on mor current W1 washers over here now come from one of the biggest - usually considered "more lowend" - supplier for appliance components called "Bitron".
That is actually the source of the biggest issue with W1 washers currently - there were water path control issues leading to wrong error displays and cycle abortions.

They appear to make a lot of stuff - pumps, valves and even control boards.
I am ALMOST certain Miele outsourced PCB production for at least their main control board for that new W1 series to Bitron. It has certain programming decisions that point towards that since I only know them from other Bitron PCB machines and literally NO ONE ELSE does them that way.
Their motor controllers MIGHT be Bitron now aswell - though that seems less likely.


Post# 1157843 , Reply# 7   8/25/2022 at 14:41 (991 days old) by richnz (New Zealand)        
in 230/240v land

the drain pumps are interchangeable between dishwashers and washing machines.

Older WAMA seem to have a fan of sorts on the back but newer ones don’t.
I don’t know what its like where you live.


Post# 1157894 , Reply# 8   8/26/2022 at 01:31 (990 days old) by bewitched (Italy)        

sorry to disappoint you hene e but i had the chance to see carefully inside my washing machine and dishwasher and on all the electronics board is clearly printed the Miele name. I have a w1 wcr890wps and a G6900. Same with the older w1 of my friend. The drain pumps were made by Hanning. The acqua stop has no labels on it. I can't really see why you (guess you're German, aren't you?) don't miss a chance to denigrate an excellent manufacturer of the few remained in your country. more equally top brands outsource much more than a pump or an acquastop from third parties. The now more famous Vzug of Switzerland sells rebadged Whirlpool machines and here Whirlpool is certainly not a brand famous for doing durable appliances.

Post# 1158206 , Reply# 9   8/29/2022 at 18:07 (987 days old) by scottsb (New Jersey)        

Thanks for all the advice and input. I'm new to the forum and was expecting an email update for responses--since I didn't get one I assumed nobody replied. Thankfully I happened to check back!

A few replies & further notes:

1. I pulled out the current pump, and it is clearly labeled at 120v (photo attached), so a European pump would not be directly interchangeable. (@Launderess, it seems that this follows the pattern of what you mentioned here for a W1918: www.automaticwasher.org/c....)

2. While I'm fairly handy, I don't think I have the time available right now to do the deeper kind of retrofitting that @henene4 suggests.

3. If we replace (as we expect we probably need to do at this point), we'd not be looking for a true budget machine, but a new Little Giant washer is more than we are able/willing to spend. Budget for washer alone would be firmly under $2k, and ideally closer to or under $1k.

Next main question:

Our current Miele dryer is a vented gas model, and we like the low cost/fast run time it provides (as a young family where we sometimes need to turn around clean clothing fast). Since compact gas dryers that would be drop-in replacements pretty much no longer exist, I've gathered a heat pump dryer would be the next best option (short of switching to a non-compact, American-size model to stick with gas/vented). A typical load for us mixed clothes & towels at probably 80% capacity in our current dryer, on a "Cotton Normal+" with "Gentle" mode. This typically takes 50-60 min. Could anybody give me a feel for what the real-life runtime would be with a load like that in a dryer like Miele's current base-model T1 (TXD160WP)?


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Post# 1158221 , Reply# 10   8/29/2022 at 22:47 (987 days old) by littlegreeny (Milwaukee, WI)        
T1 Dryer Times

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A load of towels in the T1 runs about 90 minutes. Other mixed cotton loads take 45-60 minutes.

Post# 1158298 , Reply# 11   8/31/2022 at 04:11 (985 days old) by richnz (New Zealand)        
Interesting

Interesting that this is a 90w pump.
Did it have to lift water to a particular height.

Look on eBay at Miele dishwasher pumps.
They might not have the same 90w but they might just do the trick.



Post# 1158325 , Reply# 12   8/31/2022 at 14:16 (985 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
There's always plan "B"

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Buy another Miele 19XX washer in good to excellent condition to use as parts donor.

capecod.craigslist.org/app/d/den...


Post# 1158327 , Reply# 13   8/31/2022 at 14:26 (985 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
I must be slipping...

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Totally forgot that Miele did weird things with their 220v/120v washers sold in USA.

Now it comes back to me, very little inside those 19XX washers actually used 208v-240v power. IIRC water valves were 220v, which makes it odd that pump is 120v.




Post# 1158344 , Reply# 14   8/31/2022 at 20:02 (985 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Yeah, I heard really weird stuff an being across the pond, that never had any rhyme or reason.

90W would have been the pump for higher maximum drain over here - if I am not mistaken?
The machine in question is from the "deeper" lineup, right? Maybe they thought the potentially greater laundry quantity necessitated the bigger pump.




On the T1 dryer times:

They aren't as fast as a normal vented dryer.
But not slow as some might believe.

I had the EU version with the higher efficiency heat pump that is basically a little more efficient but a little slower than the version you have.


I don't think any load ever took longer than 2h.
And that were like 8 pairs of jeans on the already quite extended denim cycle. Even my largest shirt loads of 30+ T-Shirts never took quite 2h.
A pillow might have - but I wouldn't count that.

One big thing is that there is kind of a bottom to dry times. Since the dryer dosen't heat, most items just don't give away moisture any faster than they can.
Trying to say: 3, 6, 9 or 12 shirts FOR ME at least all took about the same time - a bit shy of an hour. My bathrobe always took 1:20 - no matter if I added the bath mats or not.
So actually drying decent sized loads safes a lot of time!

The most annoying thing about that is drying Bedding.
With the Bedding cycle, you can dry bedding tangle free and actually dry about 95% of the time.
But to get there, I always had to split out the fitted sheets and dry them separately. Which ment 2-3h for what was all in all very little thin cotton fabric (2 bed sets, basically).


Post# 1158637 , Reply# 15   9/4/2022 at 10:29 (981 days old) by scottsb (New Jersey)        

>With the Bedding cycle, you can dry bedding tangle free and actually dry about 95% of the time. But to get there, I always had to split out the fitted sheets and dry them separately.

@henene4 Why did you have to split them up? Because they wouldn't dry enough if you did them together? Also, are you saying they were dry at the end only 95% of the the time? What was the other 5% of the time like?


Post# 1158661 , Reply# 16   9/4/2022 at 13:50 (981 days old) by Pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
i would reccomend this model

pierreandreply4's profile picture
i would reccomend this top load washer since it has good cleaning and rinsing power

www.maytag.ca/en_ca/washe...


Post# 1158709 , Reply# 17   9/5/2022 at 05:01 (980 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

can you post photos of the complete pump? I want to see the water end, not the electrical end.

If we know what you have, we might be able to suggest a suitable replacement.

 

120 volt pumps will be thick on the ground in USA. You just have to find one that physically matches up. Dishwasher drain pump or washing machine drain pump. Could be from any brand machine.

Don't get bamboozled by the wattage, that doesn't matter. There are two similar technologies of pump, the newer type use much less power but work just as well. The older type have a fan on the back and use more power, the newer ones have no fan, and use less than half the watts for similar pump strength. You probably just need a generic 120 volt pump.


Post# 1158710 , Reply# 18   9/5/2022 at 05:19 (980 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Like, in 5% of the times it would tangle anyway.

If I mixed the sheets in, it would tangle most likely and once something tangles something, some patch will always damp.

If nothing major tangles, everything gets dry.
It just happened to happen once every now and then something caught something and then one or two items remained damp.


Post# 1158719 , Reply# 19   9/5/2022 at 09:01 (980 days old) by scottsb (New Jersey)        

I'm away from home at the moment but will post pump pictures later. I did find a Miele dishwasher pump on eBay that match the "water end" from my memory but need to compare when I get home myself.

@Pierreandreply4 Curious about that Maytag recommendation. The research I've been doing suggests that Maytag is not very reliable these days, outside their commercial models, which I don't think that one is. Is there something special about that one?


Post# 1158839 , Reply# 20   9/6/2022 at 04:57 (979 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

askolover's profile picture

if you can possibly save your Miele do it!  I have the same w1986 and I absolutely love it.  I dread the day it dies...but I still have my Asko too. 


Post# 1158937 , Reply# 21   9/6/2022 at 21:06 (979 days old) by scottsb (New Jersey)        

Here are photos of the other side of the motor.

I'm wondering if this dishwasher pump would fit. I don't have dimensions unfortunately, but just visually it looks very similar:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185289031741...

That's an eBay listing, but it actually appears to be available new too (cheaper somehow):
www.mieleusa.com/e/-drain...


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Post# 1158942 , Reply# 22   9/6/2022 at 21:41 (979 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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the wattage and impeller are different but it might work.  The DW impeller might get linted up more easily.


Post# 1159104 , Reply# 23   9/9/2022 at 03:05 (976 days old) by richnz (New Zealand)        
Your old pump

Does it turn freely?

It can be taken apart by pulling off the fan part (Not the impeller end).
There are two long screws that hold it together that can be undone with pliers.




Post# 1159173 , Reply# 24   9/9/2022 at 21:37 (976 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
"Interesting that this is a 90w pump."

launderess's profile picture
Back in day Miele washer pumps ranged from 80w to 100w. Go figure...

Post# 1159223 , Reply# 25   9/10/2022 at 15:10 (975 days old) by scottsb (New Jersey)        

@richnz Yes, it turns freely. Why would I take it apart? Not sure I follow?

Post# 1159356 , Reply# 26   9/11/2022 at 23:23 (973 days old) by richnz (New Zealand)        
@scottsb

It was in case the impeller being stuck was the issue.

It could also become a Frankenstein pump, where parts could be grafted from another.

It would be a shame to throw away a whole machine due to a pump.



Post# 1216779 , Reply# 27   10/16/2024 at 02:27 (208 days old) by viosca (St Paul)        
Same problem, Miele W1986 drain pump.

I bought my W1986 in summer of 1997.
It uses the same pump, 4251170 120V/60Hz 90W.
The washer has had very light use and is in near perfect condition.
I can't believe a simple drain pump is going to obsolete a machine that is in otherwise perfect condition. Shame on you Miele.

The problem is that the bushing around the impeller shaft that seals to the bottom of the impeller housing and cleanout is very loose and leaks water around the shaft when it drains, soaking the floor. The seal between the bushing and the pump housing is fine. It's just very loose and floppy on the shaft, like a rubber grommet or o ring blew out. I've gently tried to take the impeller off the shaft, but that doesn't seem removeable and I was afraid of breaking it.

So, now I'm looking to build a Franken-pump. I want to cobble together some kind of pump from commonly available parts that will be around for years.

At this point I don't care how pretty it looks, so I'll probably cut some access panels in the sides so I don't have to flip it to work on it in the future.

I've also considered cannibalizing it for parts and selling them on e-bay. Miele lists the drain-pump on their website as selling for $238 (the very fine gray print says discontinued that you don't see until after you try to purchase it in the shopping cart.)

Such a shame. It's a beautiful piece of well engineered equipment. But the service and parts availability really stink. I'm so soured by this, I don't think I'll ever buy a Miele product again.

Has anyone else figured out how to retrofit another responsible brands pump to this washer?

I've considered finding a pump/impeller/motor that fits in to the housing and 3D printing an adapter. Anyone done this?


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Post# 1216781 , Reply# 28   10/16/2024 at 05:11 (208 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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I am curious too as I have the same washer but not the problem. I don't know what I will do when it decides to die because I love it and the fact it's a 240v machine.


Post# 1216884 , Reply# 29   10/17/2024 at 21:36 (207 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
"I can't believe a simple drain pump is going to obsolete a machine that is in otherwise perfect condition. Shame on you Miele."

As one who owns a Miele washer of older vintage than yours (and as a consequence also long deemed obsolete by Miele), can understand your feelings.

That being said leave us not be to hasty in vilifying Miele.

Production of W 1986 (and W 1926 as well IIRC) began in 08/2002 and ended in 10/2004.

Miele promises to stock parts for fifteen (15) years after an appliance model has been discontinued. That is quite impressive and almost unheard of then and certainly now in appliance industry.

By 2019 Miele was at end of 15 year period for now obsolete W 1986 thus as with rest of 19xx series no further parts would come from Germany. If one is in Europe there likely may have been various stashes of parts in warehouses, repair supply places, techs (both Miele and third party), but on this side of pond not so much.

Making matters worse for W 1986 and W1926 is Miele only produced those larger capacity washers for North American market. Thus parts may not be easily if at all found in Europe.

All of us who have older Miele washers or other appliances declared "obsolete" by Miele are in same position. Was lucky to find a spare timer for my "obsolete" Miele W 1070 to keep the old girl going. Don't know what am going to do when pump and solenoid valves go because they are all long since NLA.


Post# 1216890 , Reply# 30   10/17/2024 at 22:51 (207 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

The drain pump is another case I think like the timer motor on your 1070.
Fact is that the US is 60Hz vs 50Hz here. Such small synchronous motors depend their speed (and power usage) on frequency. Thus it isn't unlikely that such parts are US specific.
That goes further down the line with parts running on 120V etc.

If one was just looking for a heater or a valve (and isn't afraid of sone wire re-termination) you could with all likelihood just use any EU part. These parts only really care about voltage - and 240V and 230V are close enough to be compatible.
I think getting replacement parts for W9XX machines for such run of the mill components hasn't yet dried up over here.


Post# 1216896 , Reply# 31   10/18/2024 at 06:23 (206 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
120V components in a 240 V machine

combo52's profile picture
Nothing unusual about this in the US that’s one of the beauties of our power supply, most US electric ranges,my old combination, washer dryers and just about any 240 V clothes dryer in the United States have a 240 V heating elements and 120 V motors.

Typical electric range runs its clock and controls on 120 V right down to the oven lightbulb.

Electric dryers always have a 120 V motor motor, etc.

We have also fixed Miele Front load washers that had a 240 V pump by putting a 120 V pump or inlet valve in the machine when we couldn’t find it 240 V one and just rewiring and grounding the one side of the item to the neutral.

I wouldn’t get too hung up on finding a drain pump with the exact same wattage the fact that it’s a 90 W motor does not mean it’s necessarily that much stronger it might just be less efficient often times 50 or 60 W motor will do the same job it’s a matter of getting something to fit properly That I would worry about.

John


Post# 1223172 , Reply# 32   1/29/2025 at 00:29 by viosca (St Paul)        
Miele 1986 drain pump solution.

Miele 1986 drain pump solution. The Miele pump is 120V. And is no longer available.
I took the pump apart and found the worn rubber seal that was leaking and made a new seal with rubber washers and superglue, and that worked for a while, except I had to take off the plastic impeller from the motor shaft to replace the seal, and it didn't want to stay on (A knurled shaft) so it would work its way loose after a few weeks washing and need to be re super glued.

So, on amazon I purchased two new pumps, one was a Miele that looked similar and the website said 120V, but when I got the part I noticed that it was 240V, but I thought I'd give it a try anyway. It fit very nicely into pump housing giving me high hopes. But, it didn't work, the motor just chattered. The new motors are NOT shaded pole (which might have worked but ran slightly higher speed at 60Hz rather than 50Hz AC.) The new motors have magnets in them, you can see it when you turn the impeller by hand and it, bumps around between positions, and I believe they are tied to 50Hz. So, don't bother trying to get them to work. And they're expensive at nearly $100 ea. (with shipping incl.)

So, I tried my backup plan. I jerry fitted an
Electrolux 137221600 Washer Drain Pump Kit by Seentech
Compatible for KENMORE Frigidaire Washer - Replaces 137108100 AP5684706 134051200 134740500 134740800 137108100 137151800

$22 with free Amazon shipping. A us part, 120V 60Hz.

The pump input is smaller than the Meile and includes it's own smaller pump housing. I cobbled together an adapter with rubber plumbing parts that snugly fit the Seentech part input and slipped on o-rings over the rubber sleeve to make up the difference. (A 1.25" mission fitting with the clamps removed and trimmed down in length to fit the Seentech.) Added little super glue to the o-rings to hold them in place. I put a little clear silicon grease on the o-rings to ease them in.

Next, the exit port of the Seentech is much bigger and longer than the Miele so I used a 1.25" mission fitting and used a 1.25" to 3/4" copper reducer (sweat) and used clear flexible nylon tubing to run it over to the where the Miele exit port is on the inside back (replacing the Miele internal hose to the back) (be sure to run it low out of the drum or better yet, up on the left side where the old hose runs, but that's tricky, there's a dampening absorber in the way).

I also capped off the old Miele exit ports on the Miele pump housing using small lengths of the same nylon tubing and 3/4" copper end caps. Used real hose clamps to tighten everything back up.

I had originally thought of just cutting a hole in the side of the cabinet and running the drain line directly out. But I think Miele primes the pump with water when it starts a wash cycle by back feeding the pump on the fill.

One final thing. The Seentech pump is a little heaver and longer and so it puts pressure on the Miele leveraged plastic pump housing part. So I used a coat hanger on the front to provide extra support for the added weight.

I spent about $300 in parts, but it would have been less than $100 if I had known exactly what to buy (bought lots of stuff to try).

Long story short, it works like a champ!

I'll post pictures when I'm back in my home state and have some time. I'll post the other part numbers too.


Post# 1223197 , Reply# 33   1/29/2025 at 13:21 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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Congrats!

Post# 1223229 , Reply# 34   1/30/2025 at 03:52 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Yes I want to see those pics. my 1986 is trucking along but as you know that can change in an instant.

Post# 1227949 , Reply# 35   4/3/2025 at 18:20 by jkbff (Happy Rock, ND)        

jkbff's profile picture
Hello all!

I've been spending most of the day trying to find a drain pump for a w1986 that I plan on buying. Even with my two electrolux sets, I still miss my Miele laundry.

I've been digging though technical documentation for several models trying to find pumps. I don't get why they only did this model run for two years and had no superseeded pumps after the model discontinued. What is stupid is on the newer models, the pumps are listed as 240v... On 120v machines.

Anyways, I guess at this point, this post is aimed at viosca:

The more I looked at the drawings, I got to thinking what if I just found an alternate housing and just put a different 120v pump in.

What are your thoughts on this speed queen pump/housing?
www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJHZ...

Also, I've attached a few pics of part numbers.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 4         View Full Size
Post# 1227993 , Reply# 36   4/4/2025 at 01:18 by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Wait

I am almost 100% the W1986 is 240V and so is the drain pump...

Post# 1227994 , Reply# 37   4/4/2025 at 01:30 by jkbff (Happy Rock, ND)        

jkbff's profile picture
Henene4,

The w1986 IS 240v, but Miele, in their infinite wisdom, used a 120v Hanning pump in it.


Post# 1228020 , Reply# 38   4/4/2025 at 19:33 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA (considering moving to Temple, Texas))        
controls

Are the controls dials, buttons, or touch screens? I don't like touch screens because they're inaccessible.

Post# 1228021 , Reply# 39   4/4/2025 at 20:15 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
"I am almost 100% the W1986 is 240V....."

launderess's profile picture
Miele used typical North American dryer electrical connections for their "240v" washers of old. That is 120v/240v power connection, but very little inside washer requires 240v.

IIRC most of what was 240v inside W19xx, 12xx and other models was heater. Pumps, timer and many other bits were pure 120v.

This has proven a huge headache for those trying to source parts for such machines. Spares for their European cousins are often plentiful enough or found, but are 208v-240v (not to mention 50hz).

Some thought they could run a Miele 19XX series washer using a voltage converter (stepping 120v up to 240v), that couldn't happen either as machine needed the "120v" leg.

Ironically early Miele washers imported to USA such as W1065 could be run purely on 120v by changing power connection. Sadly again (as one knows far too well) spares for those series from Europe are 240v so that's that.

Miele swore for years they would never have a pure 120v washer in USA. That went by wayside and IIRC 12XX series was last of 120v/240v washers. The W30XX and (IIRC) 48XX series were 120v as have been every washer since.

IIRC for bits that required 240v in say W30XX series Miele simply built in a small converter/transformer to swap voltage.


Post# 1228036 , Reply# 40   4/5/2025 at 06:36 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Strictly 240 V Miele washers

combo52's profile picture
Here in the US you can easily replace the 240 V water pump in these machines by putting a 120 V pump in and grounding one leg to the neutral. It works just fine. We’ve done it several times.

John L


Post# 1228121 , Reply# 41   4/5/2025 at 20:52 by jkbff (Happy Rock, ND)        

jkbff's profile picture
Combo52: Just a heads up—the Miele W 1986, while a 240v machine, actually uses a 120v drain pump. Miele taps one leg of the 240v and neutral to run certain components at 120v in their U.S. models. It's in the wiring diagrams and pretty common for their North American units.

-- jkbFF


Post# 1228144 , Reply# 42   4/6/2025 at 08:24 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Post number 41, 240 V components

combo52's profile picture
Good to know Joshua, I knew at some point they done this. I’m not familiar enough with the model numbers of.Miele Washers to know right off hand, which is which.

The earlier models did have all 240 V components because we’ve run into troubles changing bad inlet valves and water pumps on them and we were able to rewire and use 120 V components on these older models, that’s what I was mainly referring to.

John L



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