Thread Number: 91799  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Avocado Maytag KA606 / KDG606 Parts Machine Pair
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Post# 1163378   11/7/2022 at 14:39 (506 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
A while back I came across a posting on Craigslist that caught my eye... I don't need any more projects, but classic Maytags have been thin on the ground since the pandemic, so this posting stood out. I checked again last week - and still there at three weeks since the original posting, I figured their days were numbered before they got sent to scrap, so I scooped them up. Turns out I was the first person who had even inquired about them.

The story as I recall - these might be second-owner machines? The washer was used up until recently, when it started putting oil spots on clothes, so I suspect the agitator shaft seal or shaft/bushing is shot. The gas dryer hadn't been used in some time - I didn't catch how long. Both are complete, but in poor condition in their own ways, so I'm not 100% sure what I'll do with them yet. But I needed a two-speed motor for my A408/A806 conversion, and the rest basically came along for free. If nothing else, it'll be great to have some spares of some unobtainable parts (carbon brush assemblies, the solenoid/chime mechanism, etc).


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Post# 1163379 , Reply# 1   11/7/2022 at 14:46 (506 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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The undersides are clean and remarkably rust-free - a welcome surprise after the rusty shipwreck of our A408.


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Post# 1163380 , Reply# 2   11/7/2022 at 14:47 (506 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

maytag85's profile picture
Looks just like the Maytag A606 and DG606 I picked up back in 2019. The Maytag A606 worked fine but the dryer however needed quite a bit of work to get it up and going again since the clips that held the motor down snapped from corrosion and I presume that’s why it was taken out of service along with it’s companion A606 washer. Pretty much had to do quite a bit to get it up and going again and not long after I got it back together the electronic dry control wasn’t working and that’s when I decided to put a 306 timer in and haven’t had any issues with it since and I think you might remember that debacle from 2019. So far the only repair I needed to make to it was replace the cycling thermostat since the high limit thermostat kept on kicking the burner off and that’s the only repair I’ve had to make to it so far in the 3 years it’s been a 306 dryer.

Post# 1163381 , Reply# 3   11/7/2022 at 14:55 (506 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
A look at the consoles...

The blue shading is gone over most of the panels, and there is damage to the white paint too. I'm not sure what would have caused the damage and shading in this pattern - perhaps something was taped or draped over the top for a long time?

I was also surprised at how different the color shades were between the porcelain and the paint. Is this an age effect, or were they always like this?


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Post# 1163382 , Reply# 4   11/7/2022 at 15:00 (506 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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The inside of the washer has significant rust / hard water staining on the inner tub. Lint filter was clean though!

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Post# 1163383 , Reply# 5   11/7/2022 at 15:04 (506 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
I believe the paint difference was a defect due to time. I have a 1969 KA806 where the paint on front and sides of cabinet almost appears gray compared to the avocado porcelain top.

Post# 1163384 , Reply# 6   11/7/2022 at 15:09 (506 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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Behind the washer console - things look pretty good. The timer is a Mallory "2-4476".

The washer has a "KM" serial number, so it was made in June of 1970 according to this chart:
"My Maytags Birthdate"
www.automaticwasher.org/c...


The spare motor is a "2-1666-8", a two-speed unit, which spins freely.


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Post# 1163385 , Reply# 7   11/7/2022 at 15:19 (506 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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On the dryer - inside the drum is clean. The white plastic of the lint filter assembly is distinctly yellowed - I don't know if being a gas unit accelerates this, but it's significantly worse than our DE806.

On that same point, ALL of the white plastics of these machines are more yellowed than any of my other machines. Buttons, dials, etc. So perhaps its just because they are older, or had more UV exposure... I might try some retrobright experiments on them and see what happens.

The rear shows upward rising rust from the air intakes, I presume this is/was the escape path for fumes from the standing pilot?

The dryer has an "HH" serial number, which dates it to April 1969 - one year and two months prior to the washer.


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Post# 1163387 , Reply# 8   11/7/2022 at 15:31 (506 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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Under the console cover on the dryer, things take a turn. I've never seen it before in person, having only had electric dryers, but I presume this is what you folks have been describing - the long-term corrosion effects of a standing pilot light. Almost everything metal is lightly rusted.

The main selector switch was frozen - I was able to get it to move with some force - but it had been stuck in that position for some time. The detent mechanism on the dial seems to be missing - the knob can be turned to a setting and pushed, but as soon as you let go it just snaps back to one position instead of staying where you put it? That's odd to me, because I don't recall our DE806 having a spring that rotates the knob...

The bell / switch solenoid was also locked in place. I was able to free that up too, but it's clear that this hasn't been used in a while, and would need to be fully rebuilt before it could be used/trusted.

Sean, this is probably what your electronic control looked like? I'd be shocked if this was making good electrical contact. I do think it could be revived - with new connectors and careful cleaning of the PCB. But I'll learn more when I take it further apart.


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Post# 1163390 , Reply# 9   11/7/2022 at 15:42 (506 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

>> I believe the paint difference was a defect due to time. I have a 1969 KA806 where the paint on front
>> and sides of cabinet almost appears gray compared to the avocado porcelain top.

Thanks. I wonder if there is an environmental (perhaps UV exposure) component of it? Or maybe they improved the paint formulation over time? I've seen others that still look great... such as this example:

"For Sale - Avocado Green Maytag Washer and Dryer"
www.automaticwasher.org/c...


The paint color (or condition) on these machines obviously wasn't a factor for me, but like I said, I was surprised how far apart they were.


Post# 1163393 , Reply# 10   11/7/2022 at 16:10 (506 days old) by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
Have you thought of selling off the parts on ebay?

There are people doing that and I've done it a few times.

I recently took an electrolux vacuum I got for $7 and made over $200 by selling it off in parts.

Different collectors need different parts.

Most of this washer will break down into parts that can be readily shipped via UPS and the like.


Post# 1163398 , Reply# 11   11/7/2022 at 17:01 (506 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        
Reply #8

maytag85's profile picture
Mine was in pretty much the same condition when I got it home back in 2019. As soon as I got it back together with a new carbon brush installed, it literally only worked 3 times when I tested it on damp dry setting and after that it just stopped working all together. Spent hours doing everything I could to get it to work, even tried soldering the wires to the board and that didn’t really help either and after that is when I decided to put a 306 timer in. There was some upfront effort but had payed off since I haven’t had any issues with it in the 3 years it’s been converted to a DG306. That’s another reason why I am going about putting a customized Maytag dryer to go with my A806 I picked up earlier this summer since I didn’t feel like putting up with the pesky electronic dry control and it works great when it’s working but is a rail pain when it decides to stop working properly or at all.

Post# 1163404 , Reply# 12   11/7/2022 at 17:44 (506 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

>> Have you thought of selling off the parts on ebay?

I hadn't before, but these might push me to it! The large parts (cabinets, etc) are the hard part of course... Otherwise, how bad are the fees for small value sales on eBay?




This post was last edited 11/07/2022 at 18:11
Post# 1163413 , Reply# 13   11/7/2022 at 20:26 (506 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)        
how bad are the fees

Ebay fees aren't the problem and pretty damn reasonable considering you're getting access to the entire US market and beyond.

The shitty part is Ebay now wants a SSN and bank account number.

Also, sales over $600 will generate a 1099 sent to you and IRS.


Post# 1163414 , Reply# 14   11/7/2022 at 20:56 (506 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Taxes on top of taxes, it's the American way.

Post# 1163417 , Reply# 15   11/7/2022 at 21:39 (506 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

maytag85's profile picture
I don’t know if you have a gas hookup in your home here’s one thing you could do if you wanted to get the electric dry control, you could simply use that Maytag DG606 you picked up to air dry certain fabrics like shirts with vinyl decals or certain types of delicates around the house. That’s what I did with my Maytag DG810 when I acquired it back in 2016 since I didn’t have a gas hookup in the garage and surprisingly got everything dried despite only air drying.

Post# 1163744 , Reply# 16   11/12/2022 at 16:35 (501 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
the set look like what I have and had

washer looks like my 606s in white and the avocado on my 806s

but I lost my DG 606 HOH gas dryer


Post# 1163854 , Reply# 17   11/13/2022 at 18:15 (500 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
Today was my lucky day - I got a call back from the seller, and he had found a few more parts for me. Included is a complete control panel (A208 I believe?), and a couple used water valves, fill level controls, and used hoses.

The control panel is complete and in great shape, which now has me thinking about "upgrading" our A209... but I know they changed the shape of the top of the cabinet when they changed the control panel styles...


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Post# 1165541 , Reply# 18   12/3/2022 at 23:51 (480 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Ok, finally had some time to look into the washer...

The agitator was tough to get off, but with rope through the core, a heavy weight, and a lot of yanking, it came free.
Under the agitator was... this.... So I'll have to do some cleaning to get to the tub nut. The agitator shaft itself doesn't look too bad though.


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Post# 1165542 , Reply# 19   12/3/2022 at 23:54 (480 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

The base of the machine looks fine. Not perfect, but infinitely better than the one on our A408, so I'll keep this one and clean it up. The prior owner mentioned replacing the damper pads at one point in the past. The pump is still of the older split type.



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Post# 1165545 , Reply# 20   12/3/2022 at 23:57 (480 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

The outer tub looks to be toast. Rusty pinhole leaks everywhere!
I'm surprised this was even holding water...


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Post# 1165559 , Reply# 21   12/4/2022 at 10:55 (480 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Holes In The Outer Tub

combo52's profile picture

Hi Dave, That washer had water sitting in it for at least a few years,  I would look for a better machine, maybe use the green cabinet on a better machine if you like this model

 

Its a shame I still see often pretty minty DC and even center dial MTs on the scrap pile every month around here but no one comes and gets them.

 

Sometimes I pull them apart for parts but I already have more dampers and transmissions etc than I will ever need.

 

I do grab the consoles with wiring harnesses and use them to extend the life of some of our older customers machines when they have a timer failure because timers for DC MTs are getting expensive and scarce, but most DC MTs are being trashed with ad transmissions and badly worn dampers where they are metal to metal.

 

John L.


Post# 1165602 , Reply# 22   12/4/2022 at 22:38 (479 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Thanks John. I might have mislead with my wording - "so I'll keep this one and clean it up" was in reference to the base plate in particular, not the machine as a whole. I've taken the machine further apart, and it's definitely on the wrong side of the "too far gone / not worth rebuilding" equation. So much so that it's not even a particularly good parts donor. But I'll save what I can.

Have you considered putting some of those spare transmissions up on eBay? Even as-is, they aren't really something that is available on the marketplace...


Post# 1165679 , Reply# 23   12/5/2022 at 17:53 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Continuing along... The top of the tub cover looked good... but the bottom, not so much. Quite a bit of rust around the seal line. Some of the discoloration on the underside is rusty / hard water stains, same as the inner tub...


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Post# 1165680 , Reply# 24   12/5/2022 at 17:53 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

The first tub nut refused to release with the tool and a sledge hammer, but the cold chisel made quick work of it.


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Post# 1165681 , Reply# 25   12/5/2022 at 18:00 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

The outside of the inner tub looks to have some evidence of rubbing?
The inside of the outer tub was a nightmare of sludge.


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Post# 1165682 , Reply# 26   12/5/2022 at 18:06 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

The stem also refused to come off the normal way. The setscrew, once I found it, was stuck tight enough that the hex end rounded out before it came loose, so I drilled it out. I ended up using a Dremel to score it, then the cold chisel again to smash pieces of it off until it finally came free.


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Post# 1165683 , Reply# 27   12/5/2022 at 18:08 (478 days old) by drummerboy928 (Illinois)        
Crusty Outer Tub

drummerboy928's profile picture
Holy cow! That outer tub is absolutely nasty. I thought the inside of mine was fairly bad but it’s nothing compared to the amount of rust and gunk build up inside this machine. Here’s hoping my machines never end up even close to as bad as this one.

Post# 1165694 , Reply# 28   12/5/2022 at 19:35 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Yeah, and I don't know how you would ever know without taking it all apart like this?


Post# 1165695 , Reply# 29   12/5/2022 at 19:46 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

On to the bottom. A ring of greasy dust around the inner perimeter, and the feet need replacement, but otherwise in good shape down here. The belt has been in one position for a while judging by the shape.



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Post# 1165696 , Reply# 30   12/5/2022 at 19:49 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

A peek inside the water pump. My phone shot isn't great, but I'm not sure there are any fins (vanes?) that were not damaged. A number of them were missing entirely. So this wasn't pumping nearly as well as it should have been.

This pump is old enough to be of the split type, so I'll pull the cover and look inside later just for grins.


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Post# 1165697 , Reply# 31   12/5/2022 at 19:51 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Motor, pump, and transmission pulley removed. It's interesting to me that Maytag gave the half-moon cutout so the water pump could be removed without removing the pulley, yet required the pulley removal for the motor? The set screw on the motor pulley took a 2' cheater pipe on my Allen wrench - I thought it was going to snap, but it came free...


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Post# 1165700 , Reply# 32   12/5/2022 at 19:58 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Then from here is where things went sideways. After removing the lock bolt and clip, I was able to hammer (with great effort) the brake package removal tool enough to get it to turn. But the brake just wouldn't come free from the transmission. Persuasion from the sides didn't work either - it moved, but wouldn't come free.

So I grabbed my large puller, and put some gentle pressure on it while I tapped around with the hammer. This is NOT a good way to do this, so there is a chance my nylon gear in the transmission is now damaged. I'll find out once I have it apart.



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Post# 1165701 , Reply# 33   12/5/2022 at 20:03 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

... and here is why it was stuck. The large bearing is just completely destroyed. It was rusted/seized to the brake, the inner race seized to the transmission housing, and what was left of the cage was a mangled mess rattling around inside and the balls free to go wherever they pleased. The edge of the outer race had flared, leaving a large sharp edge on the bottom. This must have sounded horrible during spins!



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Post# 1165702 , Reply# 34   12/5/2022 at 20:06 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Out came the puller again to remove the inner bearing race. This was too far of a reach for my small puller, and the large puller barely grabbed the lip of the race, but it worked.

The socket over the input shaft is what I should have done the prior time I used the puller. I don't know why I didn't think of it at the time...


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Post# 1165703 , Reply# 35   12/5/2022 at 20:07 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Finally the transmission was free...


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Post# 1165737 , Reply# 36   12/5/2022 at 23:41 (478 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Maytag washer, disassembly or demolition?

combo52's profile picture
Wow, Dave, fun to take something apart that’s in such bad shape but you’re not going to yield very many useful parts and when you consider how plentiful Maytag washers are not sure, it’s worth the effort but fun.

That washer definitely had some water sitting in it for a couple of years. If there was ever a washer that should be turned into a new Kia. This was probably it lol

But it’s need to see something difficult taken apart. Thanks for posting all the great pictures

John.


Post# 1165764 , Reply# 37   12/6/2022 at 06:37 (478 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)        
what might cause a Maytag to squeal at the end?

neptunebob's profile picture
My sister's Maytag is doing that, it is the one I replaced the belts on. Is there something that should be lubed?

CLICK HERE TO GO TO neptunebob's LINK


Post# 1165769 , Reply# 38   12/6/2022 at 07:31 (478 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Oh my goodness. Dave, this is by far one of the worst outer tubs I've ever seen. But holy cow, look at that bearing! Let's hope that the damper is in good enough shape to make all of this effort worth the while.

Ben


Post# 1165772 , Reply# 39   12/6/2022 at 07:53 (478 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Reply number 37

combo52's profile picture
If the Maytag washer just squeals, as the tub comes to a stop, it’s not the belts you have a dry brake assembly.

Usually adding an ounce or two of oil will solve the problem even though the brake lighting might be worn away, that will usually make it work for many years, this condition does not hurt anything if you want to keep using it and it’s kind of a nice signal the first time at screeches go put fabric softener in the second time you take the clothes out and put them in the dryer.

John.


Post# 1165782 , Reply# 40   12/6/2022 at 09:44 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Thanks guys. I've been trying to figure it out - do you think the damaged water pump, perhaps much earlier in its life, might have been a contributor to its demise? I'm wondering if the machine became incapable of fully pumping out the water, basically leaving water (and detergent and debris) in the tub every time it ran... ?

These machines don't owe me anything - I got my money's worth just from the two-speed motors. And they aren't sentimental, and no laundry is piling up waiting for them to be fixed, so that all makes the teardown more enjoyable. So it's just practice for the future, and basically anything salvageable is a bonus.

I *do* now have a better understanding why service technicians will no longer work on these. Even if a customer was OK with the labor time, there's just no telling what you will find inside, or how many parts you will ultimately need to replace...




This post was last edited 12/06/2022 at 10:17
Post# 1165784 , Reply# 41   12/6/2022 at 09:52 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
A few more pictures - the spin tube has some heavy scoring on it, so it's been running dry for a while. A lot of crud buildup too, both of which are mirrored on the inside of the outer bushing as well. The agitator shaft isn't the worst I've seen, but I'll have to wire brush it to see what is crud and what is rust. I don't remember feeling any lateral play in the top bushing.

I have no plans to rebuild this transmission anytime soon, if ever, but I might split the case at some point just in the name of discovery. Either way, I'll hold onto it in case I need an internal part in the future (such as the gear that shattered its teeth in my parents A308).
www.automaticwasher.org/c...


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Post# 1165785 , Reply# 42   12/6/2022 at 09:58 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Here is what remained of the upper seal on the agitator shaft. The rubber and the spring were both destroyed. (They were like this inside the stem - the spring was in pieces before it was removed.)

That half-missing flat washer in the upper left corner of the photo - does anyone recognize that? I found it on the floor when I was cleaning up, and have no idea where on the machine it came from?


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Post# 1165787 , Reply# 43   12/6/2022 at 10:04 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Here's the base plate. I haven't cleaned it at all in this picture, so at least some of what looks like rust is lint/detergent/debris buildup. I'll keep this for sure for future projects - likely swapping it and a two-speed motor into the A408 when I do the eventual A806 conversion.


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Post# 1165788 , Reply# 44   12/6/2022 at 10:06 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Close up of the damper pads. The prior owner mentioned replacing these, but I'm not sure how long ago that was done. There is a section where the pad is missing (or perhaps just a gap from where they were installed), but it looks like the surrounding pads were thick enough to compensate - I don't see any evidence that the metal in this section had rubbed?


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Post# 1165789 , Reply# 45   12/6/2022 at 10:06 (478 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
The half missing washer is the remains of one of the leaded washers for the three outer tub supports. Not surprised to see it in such poor shape.

Seeing the remains of the agitator shaft seal is yet another reminder for anyone putting one of these in service from the wild to check and replace this seal immediately, including all Maytag wringers. Many of these are well over 50 years old now and most will look and will crumble like this one.

Ben


Post# 1165791 , Reply# 46   12/6/2022 at 10:15 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Close-up of the damper itself. I don't see or feel any damage to it - nothing is rough, nothing particularly shiny, and no difference in the profile as you follow it around. The dark spots are bits of the damper pad material, glue, or something else stuck to the surface that I'll need to clean off. Is there anything else I should look for?

The rusty debris from the large bearing will need to be cleaned out. My understanding is that the outer edge of that bearing is captured/located by the brake assembly - and this damper only needs to press on the edge of the outer race to lock it in place, correct?


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Post# 1165795 , Reply# 47   12/6/2022 at 10:23 (478 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

Thanks Ben. Those washers would have been between the arms and the outside of the outer tub, correct? I didn't find any others, just that one...


Post# 1180528 , Reply# 48   5/13/2023 at 16:27 (319 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture

So it's been a while, but we tore into the KDG606 dryer this week...

It had clearly been in the process of being worked on, but it's tough to say what spurred the repair attempt, or (like the washer), which fault took the machine out of service.

Both belts were off, and the idler pulley was on the shaft, but installed backwards, and the sliding mount was jammed in place. The belts were in very poor shape, with large chunks hanging off.

The brush holder and carbon brush were missing, with the wire lug from the drum paddles just hanging loose. No fresh wear on the slip rings, so this might have been disabled some time ago, but I'm not sure how the dryer could have been used in this state?

There were two felt strips loose in the bottom of the machine - one a thin one (about an inch wide?), and then the thicker felt that goes around the outside of the halo, which was still partially attached, but otherwise also bunched up at the bottom of the machine.

I was surprised how much corrosion damage there was inside the dryer. The crimped on electrical connectors just snapped when attempting to remove them.

Mechanically, it seemed fine. The drum spun OK, as did the motor and the blower. The drum and blower bushings/shafts were completely dry after disassembly, so it hadn't seen oil in quite a while, but still spun fine. Very little rust on the base at all, other than the light internal corrosion.

The dial was missing the plastic piece which creates the detents, so the knob position is just free spin, but otherwise seemed to be complete and could be operated. The cycle end solenoid would take some cleaning to make it move freely.

Lots of lint and debris, but a 1976 nickel was the most interesting thing found in the base or bottom of the halo. (Anyone know why the nickel didn't get a bicentennial version?)



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