Thread Number: 93961  /  Tag: Modern Dryers
Speed Queen Dryer Drama
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Post# 1186281   7/30/2023 at 15:46 by decodriveboy (FL, US)        

Hello all, I have a 2017 SQ dryer which is the counterpart to the AWN432 washer.

For the second time in two years, the heating element has stopped working. First time it was a heat sensor gone bad according to the repairman, and today it stopped heating again. I assume itís the same problem.

I find it very odd to have this happen twice in such a short period of time, and Iíve actually never encountered any problem with any other brand dryer I have used. Is this a common issue for SQ dryers? Can anyone recommend what I can do to help prevent this from recurring?

BTW, have had no issues with the washer to date. Thanks in advance for any guidance!

Post# 1186282 , Reply# 1   7/30/2023 at 15:53 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
Usually heating problems with clothes dryers are mostly caused by inadequate or plugged exhaust systems. Also aftermarket parts do not have the longevity of genuine OEM parts.

Post# 1186521 , Reply# 2   8/1/2023 at 18:08 by decodriveboy (FL, US)        
SQ Dryer Verdict

Looks like the SQ dryer is done. :\

Heating element needs replacement and timer/advancer is not working - and repair person says parts unavailable. Anyone know if these parts can still be ordered, and if so, where?

Iím considering either another SQ dryer or a Miele dryer - but with the Miele itís 120 volts and Iíve used similar dryers in Europe which were simply terrible and couldnít dry the clothes. Someone else shared that the Miele dryer cycle times were similar to standard dryers with the heat condenser system but I donít want to risk it unless I can be certain.

Any suggestions from AW members is very welcome!!

Post# 1186524 , Reply# 3   8/1/2023 at 18:23 by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)        

ea56's profile picture

Get a BOL Maytag or Whirlpool dryer.  My Maytag dryer is over 7 years old and has never has a single problem or repair.  Even the light bulb in the drum still works.  They are good basic and sturdy dryers.


The link I’ve attached is the current equivalent of the dryer that I have.





Post# 1186541 , Reply# 4   8/1/2023 at 19:15 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

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Deco do you have the dryer model and serial?

Post# 1186546 , Reply# 5   8/1/2023 at 19:36 by qsd-dan (West)        
repair person says parts unavailable

qsd-dan's profile picture

Parts unavailable for a 2017 model? I call bullshit on that. Post the model and serial #'s.

Post# 1186553 , Reply# 6   8/1/2023 at 21:07 by chetlaham (United States)        
Timer Not Working

chetlaham's profile picture

Dryers will not advance on auto dry if the heating coil isn't working or intact. Good chance replacing the heater will get the timer going.  

Post# 1186773 , Reply# 7   8/3/2023 at 21:35 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
Just replace the heating element. Itís a 15 minute do it yourself job it only requires the removal of four screws.

All 240 V electric dryers occasionally have bad heating elements. Itís usually related to higher than average voltage at your house or a long vent run.

As mentioned by others, itís unlikely that the timer is also bad, youíre probably higher voltage or long vent probably caused the other repair you had already with this dryer.

Many dryers have problems like this. Speed Queen is actually one of the better ones in this regard.


Post# 1186797 , Reply# 8   8/4/2023 at 05:38 by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
My sister and I have 2017 Series 9 electric Speed Queen dryers. Mine needed a new relay boardóheat would not shut off at all during the cycleóbut it was still under warranty, so no cost to me. Unfortunately, my sister is on her third heating element. She lives in a condo building with a fairly long duct run, but the late Ď80s Whirlpool dryer that preceded it never had a problem with that. Special shout-out to John L. (combo52) for diagnosing both problems correctly!

Post# 1186806 , Reply# 9   8/4/2023 at 09:59 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Speed Queen electric dryer heating element failures

combo52's profile picture
Speed Queen makes a special lower wattage element for the situationís and this element should be installed if itís a long vent run or higher than average voltage.

This is a problem with almost all US electric dryers when the voltage is high or the vent runs or long GE used to have special elements for this problem but they no longer sell them. Whirlpool does not sell them and we have a huge problem with whirlpool and Kenmore dryers burning out elements and safeties under these conditions.

I often substitute the element on standard 29 inch whirl pools with the one from the little compact 240 V dryer and on the 27 inch dryers we use the one from the stack 27Ē dryer because it has lower wattage and that illuminates the problem of repeat failures.


Post# 1187285 , Reply# 10   8/10/2023 at 17:36 by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Hi All:

Is this related to a burned grate screen on the back of the drum? I have replaced my electric SQ grate twice because within a couple years it starts to turn brown and disintegrate, catching the clothes. The duct is perfectly clean, but the run is about 10 feet with a couple turns. Should I put in a lower watt element?

Bobby in Boston

Post# 1187318 , Reply# 11   8/11/2023 at 03:01 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

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What is considered a "long vent run"

I think, if I were to guess, mine is possibly 15 to 20 feet..starting in the laundry room and going straight up, then a slight turn then straight up to the roof.. all rigid metal.. but I have a special setup that keeps my vent run entirely clean and clothes dry fast.. I have a 4 year old whirlpool standard dryer with no issues..

I always thought most dryer issues with either people not cleaning the lint screen or long "clogged" vent runs, not long "clear" vent runs.

TBH.. I've always been jealous of people who were lucky enough to have a dryer vent straight out on an outside wall.

Post# 1187358 , Reply# 12   8/11/2023 at 18:15 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Reply number 10

combo52's profile picture
Hi Bobby , do you have any idea what the voltage is in your house at the dryer outlet? If itís over 240 V I would consider putting the lower wattage heating element in.

The inlet heat grill gets stuff burned on it if thereís not enough airflow, or if the heater is running excessively hot, you can easily take that grill off heat it up and take a wire brush and brush the burned accumulation off of it. Itís not actually the grill falling apart.

I have cleaned many of those when I am reconditioning a heavily used. Speed queen dryer for resale.


Post# 1187467 , Reply# 13   8/13/2023 at 01:20 by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
One needs to know the entire route and condition of the dryers vent system. If any part of it is restricted, damaged, crushed, or packed with lint; it won't matter what dryer you connect to it. No dryer will work correctly.

One house I owned in 2002 had a first floor laundry that had a 30'long run to the back of the house. It was clogged with lint and when I investigated where it terminated it was under a deck AND whoever built the deck made no provisions for the vent plus they put a board over half the hole. Not good.

Post# 1187477 , Reply# 14   8/13/2023 at 09:59 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
Speaking of odd vent runs

mark_wpduet's profile picture
My friend Joanne... who lives on the other side of town in an older, but nice typical neighborhood on a cul-de-cac... I was at her house one day visiting and we were talking about her new machine that she had just bought... I was asking her about dry times and if she ever cleaned her vent run? She said clothes dry fast and no issues but she had never cleaned it or even thought about it...We were outside her house and trying to figure out where the vent exited and we absolutely couldn't find it anywhere.... not even the roof...Her laundry was in the middle of the house and connected to a back wall...We were like, "Maybe it goes in the attic? She's been in her attic and sees no sign of lint anywhere..she looked all over the place up there... so it's a total mystery

Post# 1187485 , Reply# 15   8/13/2023 at 11:37 by Adam-aussie-vac (Canberra ACT)        
So basically it just

Vents into the void? Or would it vent into an old chimney like some hot water heaters

Post# 1187488 , Reply# 16   8/13/2023 at 12:06 by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

"She said clothes dry fast ..."††††Depends on what's her reference for fast.

"She's been in her attic and sees no sign of lint anywhere..she looked all over the place up there.."††††She probably didn't recognize what is the ducting.† My guess is it goes through the attic and exits on the roof.

My neighbor has his machines in middle of the house, with a 4" PVC in the slab, exiting I believe at the edge (which occasionally results in it filling with water during a heavy rain).

A friend lives in a log cabin on a slab, also has a PVC in the interior wall, down through the slab and up in the yard similar to this photo.† I recently repaired his dryer (bad belt) which had sat unused for a few years(!).† He was using his dad's dryer.† Upon finishing the repair and testing the machine, there was a lot of backflow from the exhaust.† I went outside to locate the exit and there was zero airflow.† He wasn't home, I left an advisory note detailing the problems that would result from the obstruction.† Called him later, he said he cleared the clog.

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Post# 1187505 , Reply# 17   8/13/2023 at 14:07 by bradfordwhite (central U.S.)        

bradfordwhite's profile picture
If she has a crawlspace, the duct may just go down thru the floor and end. There is vents all the moisture and lint into that space. I've seen that lots of times.

OMG PVC! I've never seen that but I've seen the manufacturers installation books that strongly forbid it AND venting into an old chimney.
Piping underground, probably without double walling it...... dumb.

The average person just doesn't understand pipes and wires behind the walls. They just don't seem to put it together in their minds....which is kind of sad.
As a result it can lead to some really tragic and sometimes funny things.

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Post# 1187530 , Reply# 18   8/13/2023 at 19:59 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

mark_wpduet's profile picture
it's definitely not the roof...because there was no specific roof cap that was for a dryer.. It's not that big of a home. I think it's a concrete slab foundation. It has to go somewhere....I know a lot of people wouldn't know what to look for but I described what to look for...and months later after having that conversation with her...she had someone over doing something to her house and she told me on the phone that she mentioned that to the guy that was there doing work and he was up there in the attic and he couldn't find it either...She was baffled and on a mission to find it but she never did...she gave up.

Post# 1187553 , Reply# 19   8/14/2023 at 07:09 by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Here is what happens in this SQ every couple years- the grate starts to discolor, then the metal literally starts to deteriorate. I took a few pics of the vent run. A few too many turns, for a total of about 10 feet. All clean with no blocked vent cap.

Bobby in Boston

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Post# 1187554 , Reply# 20   8/14/2023 at 07:12 by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

John, I have no idea what the voltage is coming out of the wall or how to test it. What a nice little pair this is, despite the grate issue.

Bobby in Boston

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Post# 1187555 , Reply# 21   8/14/2023 at 07:44 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
Your vent is definitely the problem. That should have been rigid pipe all the way out. That would be against building code here.

Post# 1187701 , Reply# 22   8/16/2023 at 01:21 by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture

Voltage is checked at the receptacle with a multimeter.

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