Thread Number: 94068
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Generic electric washer drain pump |
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Post# 1187508   8/13/2023 at 14:36 (402 days old) by Paulg (My sweet home... Chicago)   |   | |
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Post# 1187546 , Reply# 2   8/14/2023 at 01:09 (401 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Hi Paul, I usually use GE Washer Pump WH23X10030. Chris is correct you'll need to use a relay with the coil signal to be from the agitate solenoid circuit and the power supplied from the motor line. If you need assistance with wiring that let us know.
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Post# 1187628 , Reply# 3   8/15/2023 at 12:09 (400 days old) by Paulg (My sweet home... Chicago)   |   | |
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I am asking this question based upon a (probably flawed) image of the mechanism in my mind.
During drainage, I believe(d) that the “drain solenoid” kicks the belt onto a spinning idler, thus transmitting rotation to the drain pump itself. I surmised that if I were to merely disconnect the drain solenoid and attach a drain pump to it, the pumping action would occur at the same time as the idler/belt “kick” and thus create draining just as before. Without reviewing the mechanism again, I presume your advice is correct and mine is not. Is my recall of the original drain mechanism faulty? Thanks for any additional info! |
Post# 1187648 , Reply# 4   8/15/2023 at 15:12 (400 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 1187663 , Reply# 5   8/15/2023 at 17:10 (399 days old) by Paulg (My sweet home... Chicago)   |   | |
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Post# 1187717 , Reply# 7   8/16/2023 at 10:19 (399 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)   |   | |
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I saw a POD from about 1943 showing a prototype WP automatic that had a solenoid actuated clutch on a centrifugal drain pump.I noticed a turbine type pump on some very early production BDs from the early 1950s and possibly a reversing motor was used ? |
Post# 1187719 , Reply# 8   8/16/2023 at 10:39 (399 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Paul, your machine would not have a solenoid to activate the drain pump, it does have a roller which pushes the belt against the water pump pulley, which is activated by the agitate cam bar.
If the machine has or originally had a suds saver it may have a solenoid to activate the suds return pump. It would be best if you could provide a picture of what system your washer uses as the pump situation in Whirlpool belt drive machines changed five times until and including 1956 models. John |
Post# 1187910 , Reply# 9   8/18/2023 at 10:54 (397 days old) by Paulg (My sweet home... Chicago)   |   | |
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Post# 1187911 , Reply# 10   8/18/2023 at 11:12 (397 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 1187970 , Reply# 11   8/19/2023 at 12:16 (396 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)   |   | |
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>> Hi Paul, I usually use GE Washer Pump WH23X10030 In your experience, are the duty cycle limits printed on the labels accurate? I remember looking at universal (or repurpose-able) washer pumps a year or so ago, and thinking that many of them seemed like even just running two loads back-to-back would be enough to exceed their ratings... Granted, I was looking at making a Filter-Flo type system for a Maytag at the time... so I needed a pump that could run through the entire wash cycle. This one at (15m ON / 45m OFF) seems to be one of the better ratings... |
Post# 1188000 , Reply# 12   8/19/2023 at 21:25 (395 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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To an early 50s whirlpool washer, hi Paul, I would just wire the pump to the main motor so that the drain pump would be on whenever the washer motor runs, then add a relay powered by the control magnet for the agitation, so whenever the controlled magnet is energized, it will interrupt the power to the drain pump. The only time the drain pump doesn’t need to be on is during agitation.
It might be harder to install the drain pump usually these early 50s whirl pools. The hose coming down from the outer tub is hard as a rock and will probably crumble, you may have to replace that hose when you’re adapting to an electric pump. John. |