Thread Number: 94186  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Vintage Amana washer dryer set questions
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Post# 1188800   8/29/2023 at 08:45 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Hey everyone, I've been looking for a vintage washer dryer set and now have found a matched Amana set of unknown vintage in apparently excellent condition. A 93 year old lady who lived alone owned them and she recently moved to assisted care...I don't know if she was from Pasadena. ;-)

I've learned quite a bit on this forum about DD Whirlpools and more recently vintage GE washer/dryers. And I'm pretty sure the Amana name was bought out by Whirlpool like many other names. But at one point Amana was a stand alone company and then later was bought by Ratheon. These units shown below are apparently from that era due to what's written on the name tag. Can you guys tell me something about these units? Like overall quality, quirks, reliability etc? How they stack up against other units of similar vintage? The price was so good I couldn't pass them up ($175 for both). Thanks...

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Post# 1188808 , Reply# 1   8/29/2023 at 10:47 by Blackstone (Springfield, Massachusetts)        

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I had the same set (or very similar) for 28 years; purchased in 1991. Finally had to scrap, primarily because of the motor. The only new replacement I could find cost over $300. I reluctantly bought it; but the delivery "service" by FredEx was terrible. The motor arrived damaged and unusable.

When I did disassemble for scrap, I found the diecast was in very poor condition. I still could have kept the washer, but I am glad that I did not invest the $300 to keep it going.

Other than that, very good machine. Pump lasted forever; brake pads and belts replaced a couple of times. Other members have reported water leaks in the center, but I never had that problem.

I would suggest removing the stainless tub, just to look underneath, and to make sure that the bolts are not seized into place.

Post# 1188811 , Reply# 2   8/29/2023 at 11:01 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1990 pair of Amana, washer and dryer

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These are basically a speed, queen, washer, and dryer from a little earlier time, but being lightly used, he probably will get some good use out of them.

If you want to take the front off the washer and look at the condition of the main drive belt, other than that if everything looks good, I would not do anything to it. I would not try to take the basket out of the washer. Sometimes the bolts break off, they generally do get seized.

On the dryer, take the front off just two screws, and dust out the floor of it. If you want to go into it, you could take the drum out oil, the idler pulley and the two rear rollers other than that I wouldn’t do anything that isn’t obviously necessary.

These earlier Speed Queen‘s were work horses, they did have some problems with the center seal alliance redesigned it about 20 years ago to a much better design. His earlier ones also tend to be noisy or because the motor was mounted to the base pan, but they should be good rugged machines.


Post# 1188846 , Reply# 3   8/29/2023 at 21:04 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the info. I just got home with the washer and dryer and am anxious to look under the hoods of both of them. I plan to do all that you say. I will attempt to get the washer basket off if it is cooperative. If it looks risky to take off in the sense I may snap some rusted bolts, then I'll pass on that job. I will post my results either way depending on what I see when I look inside them both.

As far as the noisy motor, the guy that I bought it from warned me the washer was a bit noisy. I asked him noisy in the sense it may be needing repair and he assured me "No, they both work fine. We've been using them for the last 3 months, it's just we have our own washer and dryer and these were left behind by the older woman that used to live here. The washer is just noisy in comparison to newer machines."

So, in the event I think the washer is noisy, is there a way to quiet it down? Like for instance, if the motor being hard mounted to the metal base is a contributor to noise, can it be rubber mounted or somehow isolated with a simple mod to help quiet it down? I'm mechanically inclined and not afraid to experiment. Let me know what you think.

Post# 1188867 , Reply# 4   8/30/2023 at 08:00 by chetlaham (United States)        

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You could add sound dampening pads to the inside of the machine, but me personally I like the sound. I've used these in the coin-op version and I found them to be really solid respectable washers. If everyone was like me this design would have been the second most common in existence next to the Maytag dependable cares.

Post# 1188868 , Reply# 5   8/30/2023 at 08:45 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Thanks Chet. These units will be placed right next to a bedroom in a small efficiency apartment. They'll be rarely or never used when actually sleeping, but if there are ways to reduce noise, I'd like to understand those options. Do you mean stick dynamat or similar sound absorbing/dampening material on the inside of the metal enclosure?

Post# 1188874 , Reply# 6   8/30/2023 at 10:24 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Quieting down a noisy washer design

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I would try to add various types of insulation as opposed to trying to remount the motor to control some of the noise.

There are many techniques that can be used to make the machine much quieter, my partner Jason and I took a Frigidaire one to 18, which is one of the noisiest washers made it got the thing to be almost silent,

I added a foam block under the perimeter of the base plate of the machine, I added a tuning weight to the motor to take the hum out of it, we added about 20 pounds of heavy bittmas insulation to the washers front panel and I use foam sealing strips between the panels, the top of the machine, the cabinet etc. and even added the foam gasket to the lid to block noise when the latest closed.

It all depends how much you want to do and how much the noise bothers you.


Post# 1188887 , Reply# 7   8/30/2023 at 12:31 by chetlaham (United States)        

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Correct- on the inside of the enclosure and the outside of the outer tub. Just don't go overboard and stack it though, the tub needs to able move around in the cabinet.


John has some really good ideas, as mentioned you can even use foam strips between the panels. It all depends on how much sound dampening you want/need.

Post# 1188889 , Reply# 8   8/30/2023 at 12:46 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Thanks again to all you guys. Once I get a chance, I'll take the enclosures off and take some pics and post them here. Excited to see how well they work and how noisy they are.

Post# 1189096 , Reply# 9   9/1/2023 at 15:42 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Hey everyone, just wanted to post an update on the Amana washer (haven't delved into the dryer yet). I ran it without clothes for a short cycle to see how loud it was (as forewarned by the previous owner). It was fairly loud. There was an annoying sound coming from inside the cabinet that seemed like it may not be normal.

So, I took the front metal cover off (only 2 screws, just like you said) and probed around inside while it was running to try and detect where the noise was coming from. Turns out the plastic cover sitting on top of the motor was rattling and making the bulk of the annoying noise. Here's a video of the culprit:

The cover is held on with one nut securing it in place, but otherwise sits fairly loosely mounted on 3 other threaded bolts. So, I added some electrical tape to the plastic cover mounting surfaces and also slipped small sections of rubber shrink tubing over the 3 threaded studs that the plastic cover sits on. After that remedial action, problem solved - sounds MUCH better and more like the old school washers I recall in my youth:

I am going to install some rubber gasket insulation between panel mating surfaces and sound deadening mat to the enclosure when I get a chance. I also noticed a sort of whistle/whine sound when the washer was spinning. Not a terrible noise, but present. Not sure if that is normal or if maybe a bushing or bearing is dry? Not sure. Was hoping you guys might take a look at the vid below and give me an assessment of what you hear good or bad?

The only maintenance related thing I could see it might need in the near future is a pump drive belt. Any brand or type in particular to get?

Other observations: The thing is built like a tank. The big metal tub is in stark contrast to the flimsy plastic Whirlpool DD washer I last had. The chassis seems like the undercarriage of a 1950s Buick. They truly don't make ANYTHING like this anymore. The motor is already mounted on rubber isolators, so I don't have to worry about bothering with that.

I measured the water consumed on the smallest load cycle it had. Looks like it takes about 12 gallons for one wash cycle and another 12 gallons for one rinse and spin. That's without any clothes in the washer though. I suppose it would be less with clothes in the washer, but it did not seem to exactly be "water conserving."

Thanks in advance for fantastic advice, really psyched to put this thing into service!

A few more vids of it functioning:

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Post# 1189097 , Reply# 10   9/1/2023 at 15:52 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Also, I forgot to ask. How do you remove the agitator? I don't see any way to unbolt it from the top like I did on the Whirlpool DD models. Do you simply pry up on it manually from inside the tub? Or unbolt something inside the cabinet underneath the agitator?

Post# 1189104 , Reply# 11   9/1/2023 at 16:56 by 114jwh (Vancouver)        

Congratulations on your find! Looks like its a workhorse and great news that it was just a simple fix for the motor noise.

Although I don't have specific experience with Speed Queen built machines, in general whenever I run the spin cycle with an empty tub on any other machine, I hear a similar whistling noise. I believe its just a noise resulting from the airflow and echo created by the empty tub spinning. I bet if you run the spin with clothes in it you won't hear that anymore. However, as I mention I don't have specific experience with Speed Queen/Amana so I'm speculating in your case that it isn't something else.

Congrats once again on your find!

Post# 1189121 , Reply# 12   9/1/2023 at 20:27 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Amana, Speed Queen Toploader

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Glad the machine seems to be in pretty good shape. Yes, as James reported in reply number 11 the whistling sound is normal for an empty tub.

The pump belt you need to use a cogged belt, it looks like the main drive belt is pretty worn also.

They still build washing machines exactly of this build quality any Speed Queen, Toploader or front loader is still almost all metal and heavily built,


Post# 1189134 , Reply# 13   9/1/2023 at 22:16 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Thanks to all for the helpful replies. I see a part number for the water pump belt on the belt itself. But I don't see one on the main drive belt. Is there a good source for identifying part numbers for both of the required belts? Might as well replace them while I have the cover off.

Post# 1189146 , Reply# 14   9/2/2023 at 06:09 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Local Parts Source In Maryland

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Tribles, our local store in Beltsville PHONE #  301-313-9111


Don't know where you are but we have more new belts in stock than we will ever use for those machines at our shop.



Post# 1189150 , Reply# 15   9/2/2023 at 08:34 by chetlaham (United States)        

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I'm so proud of you and grateful that you now have this set. I'm happy that you can see what I see- an elegant, well designed washer that is built like a tank. I love this design (its my second favorite) and I hope you continue to fall in love with it.


I'm envious of the water circulation. I wish my Speed Queen had that. 



Personally I think the belts are ok (for now) but I also vote changing them out just to avoid the trouble in the future when you've already well into using the washer.


Question for the experts- what does the cool down do on this machine? I notice both delicate and PP have it on the dial.

Post# 1189151 , Reply# 16   9/2/2023 at 09:05 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Thanks John. I no longer live in Maryland, forgot to update my profile. I moved to Tennessee recently.

Can you guys help me determine my model number? The data sticker was damaged when I tried to remove a dried smudge of grease obscuring the model number. Now I can't see the full number, although I think I have deciphered it based on a picture of the data tag before and after the "clean up." I'm almost certain it says the model number is LW1503L but when I try to enter this number into various online washer parts providers it does not recognize the model. Not sure if I've not deciphered the number correctly, or if the model is too old to be listed anymore? Dunno.

I've attached a few before and after pictures of the data sticker. Pretty sure I read LW1503L - what do you guys think?

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Post# 1189152 , Reply# 17   9/2/2023 at 09:15 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Chet - thanks for the kind words and I really do like this appliance set. I don't know why I'm so intrigued by a washer and dryer, but I just am. haha

Couple of questions: You mention the recirculation. I notice this thing had a little waterfall inside the tub area during the agitation cycle. Is that the recirculation you mention? What is that and why is it good?

Also, you say there is one more model that you like better. Out of curiosity what is that model and why is it your favorite?

You mention the cool down on the dial. What's that? I did notice when it completed the wash there was a "pregnant pause" before it transitioned into the rinse and spin cycles. It was a significant delay, I almost thought the timer was bad. But I do remember on the old machines there was often a significant delay when transitioning from one cycle to the next (for whatever reason).

And do you guys know where I can find an online manual for this model? It would be great to read about all the features and settings to better understand all the options in using it.

Post# 1189157 , Reply# 18   9/2/2023 at 12:18 by chetlaham (United States)        

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Art is a universal language. When you see it, there is no need to understand it as beauty captivates seduction. What you are experiencing is your mind recognizing and falling in love with engineering perfection. These Amanas are IMO the second greatest washer design ever produced next to the Maytag Dependable Care. If everyone was as lucid as me this design would be as common as Whirlpool DDs are in this reality.


The water fall you notice is indeed re-circulation. Re-circulation can pull powdered or liquid detergent thats migrated to the bottom of the tub and introduce it into the wash water. The drain impeller of the pump running in reverse during agitation also helps with this. Recirculation was fairly common in washers but because of cost cutting it basically disappeared in the 90s. 


I like this model because it has all the positives that could come with a top load washer- long lasting, durable, quiet, excellent suspension, solid design, good capacity, two belt system, slip belt for clutching, pump mounted away from the motor, large transmission, stainless steal wash basket porcelain on steal outter tub, simple electrical, fast cycle times and of course recirulation. 


I have no idea what the cool down does on this machine, whether its half a tub drain followed by a fill or just a long spin spray. There may be a tech sheet (piece of paper) tucked away in the console behind the timer that gives away the function of the cool down. The cycle sequence should be printed on there and it usually gives away more details than the user manual.


Post# 1189158 , Reply# 19   9/2/2023 at 12:31 by chetlaham (United States)        

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And before I forget- the lack of shaking and vibration you see in spin is not common for most other washers. This washer spin cycle wise is in a class of its own. You can set it on an average wooden floor and will not shake, vibrate or make noise like a lot of other washers do. It is difficult for a load to become unbalanced in this machine, and IIRC if it does this machine has a trip function that will shut the motor down. This  washer is perfect for a second or third floor.   

Post# 1189183 , Reply# 20   9/2/2023 at 17:22 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

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Post# 1189184 , Reply# 21   9/2/2023 at 17:30 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

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Post# 1189185 , Reply# 22   9/2/2023 at 17:36 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

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I apologize for the double post. To remove the agitator get your fingers under the skirt on opposite sides and wiggle back and forth while pulling straight up.

Post# 1189193 , Reply# 23   9/2/2023 at 20:24 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Chet thank you for the deep dive on this washer and also the heads up on the Maytag Dependable Care model. I saw a very nice older (probably 80s vintage) Maytag set (not sure what model it was though) for sale while I was shopping for this one recently. The guy wanted $400 and wouldn't budge. I was about to relent when I found this Amana set for $175, so went for this set instead.

I will pop the top off to see if I can find any paperwork on the cool down cycle. In the meantime I located the user's manual and on page 11 it describes the COOL DOWN function and its use during PERMANENT PRESS cycle. Also see pic below.

If I find anything more under the top, I'll share it here. In the meantime, I'm psyched for learning more about this robust machine. I also plan to put some sound dampening materials and foam gasketing inside to help quiet her down even more. Will update with pics as I progress.

John, many thanks for the belt links. I eventually sorted out the model number is LW1503L, it just doesn't always come up in all the data bases out there. Appreciate pointing me in the right direction.

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Post# 1189194 , Reply# 24   9/2/2023 at 20:38 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

A little off topic on this thread, but I'm curious if this Maytag washer is a Dependable Care model? I almost bought this one before I scored the Amana set I now have.

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Post# 1189195 , Reply# 25   9/2/2023 at 20:53 by qsd-dan (West)        
if this Maytag washer is a Dependable Care model?

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The washer is from 1990-1993. The dryer is from 1984-1989.

Post# 1189206 , Reply# 26   9/3/2023 at 07:09 by chetlaham (United States)        

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Yes, that is a Maytag Dependable Care. The simplest, longest lasting, most durable washer ever made hands down. 


Regarding your Amana according to the use and care manual you posted the machine has a real cool down! It will drain, then refill itself with cold water several times until the total drain time accumulates enough to advance the timer into the next increment. This is the best type of cool down a washer can have- the same type of cool down used on 70s and 80s Maytag Dependable Cares.


The rest of the cycle times are ideal. For example Regular has a 7 minute final spin- this is enough time to get even a heavy load damp dried for the dryer. 5 minutes of rinse agitation to get everything turned over and detergent washed out. Permanent press has shorter times for compliment more causal fabrics and delicate uses intermediate agitation for gentle garments. Spin Sprays seem long- 45 seconds? A lot of newer washers were limited to a 5-10 second spray- later models didn't even spin-spray.



You're very lucky to have found a washer like this.


Post# 1189241 , Reply# 27   9/3/2023 at 21:33 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Thanks Chet! My whole life I don't think I've ever washed a single load of laundry on Permanent Press setting. I had no idea cooling down the fibers was such an important aspect of washing synthetic fabrics. For all I know this washer may have cleaned John Travolta's white suit at some point. ;-) Anyway that is very cool, glad I understand it now. The manual also talks about the timer's 2 minute pause between cycles I was wondering about.

And now that I know about the Maytag Dependable Care model I'll keep an eye out for one of those in the future. I may swap my Amana out for one if I stumble upon a super deal somewhere. Good to know the top tier machines and the features they have. Thanks again for all the great insights.

Post# 1189249 , Reply# 28   9/3/2023 at 23:59 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Pausing when changing modes, from agitation to spin, is because the motor reverses direction.  It must come to a complete stop before restarting in the opposite rotation and the simplest method to do that is by turning the motor off for one timer increment.

Post# 1189261 , Reply# 29   9/4/2023 at 10:03 by chetlaham (United States)        
Cool Downs

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There are 4 major types of cool downs-



Type 1 Cool Down: the tub drains, refills, drains, then refills as many times until the timer advances out of that increment. The timer only runs while the motor is in drain mode, so the lower the water level switch is set the more drain and refills take place.


Type 2 Cool Down: Half the tub drains (only once) and then stops when the pressure switch resets. The timer continues to run but no more draining takes place. The timer advances to the next increment where the tub re-fills with cold water before moving onto the first full drain/spin.


Type 3 Cool Down: The machine goes right into drain and spin, and when the pressure switch resets cold water is sprayed into the tub. Cold water continues to run into the tub during the whole duration of the first spin cycle. When the drain/spin stops the cold water continues to flow filling the tub up for the rinse cycle. 


Type 4 Cool Down: After the water has drained out and the tub is more or less up to speed cold water is sprayed into the tub for 5 to 30 seconds. Spray ends and the first spin continues without more water.


This of course assumes a machine with a cool down, a lot of machines from the 2000s onward did not even have a cool down of any type.


Type 1 is the best type of Cool Down in that is does the most amount of water change-outs before advancing into spin. Type 3 and 4 often do little to properly cool down the fabrics, especially type 4 which already has the hot fabric being creased into the tub before any type of cool down takes place.




Post# 1189264 , Reply# 30   9/4/2023 at 10:15 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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You missed some WP/KM variations of Type 1 and Type 2.

Post# 1189267 , Reply# 31   9/4/2023 at 10:23 by chetlaham (United States)        
2 minute pause between cycles

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This is normal. Before a machine can go into spin a half dozen contacts must open and close in the correct sequence. Typically the pressure switch bypass contact must close first, the motor run contact must then open, both wash fill contacts must open after that, and then the first motor reversing contact must break from the line side of the timer bus and afterwards make contact with the neutral side of the timer bus, then the second motor reversing contact must break contact from the neutral side of the timer bus and then make contact with the line side of the timer bus. Finally the motor run contact must close. All this must take place in the correct sequence with a broad enough timer increment to assure everything opened and closed in the right order, in full fashion. For example if the motor run contact closed before both reversing contacts had the opportunity to close into their respected polarities the motor would just hum for several seconds before the motor's thermal protector trips out. The pause is essential in assuring the correct switching sequence is not left up to chance. 

Post# 1189268 , Reply# 32   9/4/2023 at 10:24 by chetlaham (United States)        

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@Dadoes: Most likely I did- that would be my mistake. embarassed This is where my ignorance shows. Can you fill me on how WP/KM did Type 1 and Type 2 Cool Downs?

Post# 1189289 , Reply# 33   9/4/2023 at 15:22 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Early Wash-n-Wear, begins at 26:15.  Lower water level and/or faster fill rate would possibly garner more than two water changes, although user instructions (WP and KM) advised to always use a high fill.  The cool down refill levels are too high, apparently a glitch with the pressure switch.  This cycle is Super Wash-n-Wear which includes a prewash, pause, partial drain and refill into the main wash period.

Kenmore Perm Press version, four two-minute timer increments.  Begins at 15:02.  First increment drain, refill begins *with* (low) agitation on pressure switch reset, which I believe was unique to KM, never saw a WP agitate during the refill.  Second increment agitation (and timer) stops, fill continues until the target level is reached, agitation and timer resume.  Third and fourth increments are a repeat of first and second.  Whirlpool was a double cool down except pause for remainder of the drain period (first & third increments), refill didn't begin until the timer advanced (second and fourth increment).

Begins at 7:35, this is the same as the above but water pressure is high so the target fill level is reached *before* the first (and third) increments advance which triggers drain to resume until the timer advances, which isn't long enough to reset the pressure switch again, so the water level is lower when agitation resumes on the second and fourth increments.  Note that it isn't intended to function that way.  The fill level is also a bit low (pressure switch needs adjustment) which, along with the high water pressure, is the reason it happens.

Begins at 15:10, a Kenmore (or WP) single-stage cool down (both with no agitation until after refill) when water conservation steps came into play on belt-drives.  Whirlpool models with a dedicated Knits cycle did the single-stage on it, even earlier when PP was double.  Direct-drives also did a single agitated cool down on Perm Press until further water reduction eliminated a drain/refill cool down for a spin spray.

Post# 1189486 , Reply# 34   9/6/2023 at 19:18 by chetlaham (United States)        

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I forgot about these cool down variants!  Thank you for posting them.



BTW- I love the cool down and the sprays in the first rinse. I forgot these had essentially two different types of cool downs cool


When can modern washers be like this again?

Post# 1191359 , Reply# 35   10/6/2023 at 10:56 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)        
Amana washer and dryer

What's the status on this Amana washer and dryer pair? I'd like to see a video of a full normal cycle with everything fixed up.

Post# 1192231 , Reply# 36   10/19/2023 at 19:20 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        
Amana update

Ok, just wanted to give an update on the Amana washer/dryer combo. They have been sitting idle in my garage for over a month now while I do some home renovations on my new fixer upper house and especially the bathroom where these two units will reside.

The washer needed some new belts so I went ahead and ordered . the two needed thanks to the helps of the folks here. Pretty easy job to loosen the tension adjustment mounts, slip the old cracked belts off and put the new ones on. I also lubricated the idler bearing on the main tub drive with a few drops of oil for good measure (hard to reach, but managed to deposit a few drops of oil onto it).

As for the dryer, I followed your guys advice and looked under the hood. I took off the front panel and then the duct that funneled air from the removable lint filter to the blower fan. Glad I did because as you can see it had quite a bit of built-up lint inside. Broke out the shop vac and thoroughly cleaned the entire insides best I could get the vacuum nozzle into the guts. The motor and pulley and belt seemed pretty inaccessible buried deep behind the drum. Kinda looked like I'd have to remove the entire sheet metal box enclosure to get to it.

Didn't want to deal with that hassle, so I looked for another way. I could see there was only one little bolt holding the exhaust vent onto the back so I took that off and voila - a nice hole in the back of the dryer that provided a "window' into the inner workings inside.

The belt looked fair to ok, not really sure because it was hard to see clearly from that angle. The idler seemed ok, and as per ya'lls advice, I lubricated it with a few drops of oil (again hard to get to completely, but did the best I could). I stuck the vacuum nozzle and hose deep inside and removed as much residual lint as possible. Overall looked pretty clean and orderly when I was done. The drum spun freely and quietly, everything looked great (the previous owner said it always worked fantastic). I turned it on after reassembly and it seemed to purr like a kitten. Heated right up too, in just 2-3 minutes it got hot inside. So the dryer seems to good to go.

After that I used my hand truck/dolly and wheeled both units into their permanent home. Hooked up hoses and drain line and now we're all set for our next load of laundry. The wife just did a load just 2 days ago at the laundry mat, so we'll have to wait a little while before the christening wash and dry cycle. Looking forward to it and possibly adding some sound insulation to the washer after getting an acoustic baseline in situ.

Thanks to all for the tremendous advice and assistance in figuring this set out. Presheate it dudes!

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Post# 1192247 , Reply# 37   10/20/2023 at 07:07 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Amana - Speed Queen, washer and dryer

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Glad you’re getting these all in shape. Hope you get some good use out of them, when you service the dryer, you just take the front off and then the front shroud off and the whole drum just lifts out allowing access to the motor idler and rear rollers it would be great if you could get a few drops of on both rear roller shafts as well. Other than that I think you’ll get some good use out of these.


Post# 1192252 , Reply# 38   10/20/2023 at 07:59 by Spin-Doctor (Tennessee)        

Thanks John! Ahhh I should've known, the whole drum just pops out! Darned, I was thinking there had to be an easier way to get to the motor and pulley system. Well at least now if something does go wrong with it, I'll know how to deal with it next time. Thank you so much again for the tips and expert advice, this website is an awesome resource.

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