Thread Number: 96959  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Inglis TO-41001 Commercial Belt Drive Rebuild -A few questions-
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Post# 1217489   10/27/2024 at 23:46 (196 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Hey all, it's good to be here. Been enjoying working on appliances for almost two decades. Worked on many washers, But this will be my first belt drive unit. I've done plenty of research on them over the years, and have good memories of an Inglis Liberator washer my mother had years ago.

I picked this machine up the other day. I plan to restore it for my own use and interest. Inglis TO-41001. This is a commercial coin op unit made in Canada. It runs and functions just fine, But as youll see in the photos, Its pretty obvious a seal has failed and water is seeping into the gearcase.

I plan to fully service this machine and its gearbox. Since its a commercial unit AND Canadian made I was hoping to find more information on it before I source parts, Just in case there are small design differences. From what I can tell, It should be a regular old belt drive machine mechanically.

I'm assuming it was made in 1986 based on the mfg number on the motor. Seems to have the "quiet pack" skinny non ribbed belt and rubber damped pully, Which I find to be an odd choice for a commercial machine. Here are some pics. Any additional info on this neat machine is appreciated. Thanks


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Post# 1217496 , Reply# 1   10/28/2024 at 06:39 (196 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Last of the whirlpool commercial belt drive washers

combo52's profile picture
Hi Landon, this is a great machine to fix up. It’s a little better built than the normal home models. It has a better porcelain finish on both the inner wash basket and the outer tub.

It should be an easy build. The parts are all the same as the normal home models both assembled in Canada and the US, the one thing I notice is the rear transmission brace is missing on your washer. This is very important for smooth spinning performance with an out balance, there’s two other races that might be missing as well.

But you’re correct it needs to be pulled completely apart seals and other parts replaced that are worn or damaged and it should work for a long time, I still know of two of these machines that are in commercial use in DC .

John


Post# 1217514 , Reply# 2   10/28/2024 at 10:32 (196 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
Congrats on your find. This will be a fun and rewarding project to complete. There are many threads you can search for here on rebuilding whirlpool belt drives. There is a lot of knowledge here so ask questions. Can’t wait to see your progress.

Post# 1217518 , Reply# 3   10/28/2024 at 10:53 (196 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
I knew it looked a little too accessible in there...

Hey John,
Thanks for the info! Glad to hear it has a more robust finish on the washbasket and tub. This machine was still in service until two weeks ago. This makes it the third belt drive machine I know of in town that was still being used daily.

I noticed that brace missing, and am going to check for the two others. Not looking forward to trying to source those. I would much rather not use the machine without them to avoid undue stress on the parts. Those missing braces are the mark of a lazy repairperson in the past. Appears the transmission may have been opened as well, as the longer case bolt that connected that bracket appears to be in the wrong spot. It runs well and sounds good at least. I plan to get that transmission out of it and cleaned up ASAP before that water does any more damage.

Thankfully the water in the transmission was not a surprise, since I immediately noticed the agitator is a bit loose which compromised the airlock underneath it.

Where should I start searching for the brackets? I have two older appliance shops in town but this does not really seem like a consumable part they would keep on hand from back in the day. Seals and moving parts are a different story since they wear out with use. Finding a parts machine is unlikely as this is the first BD unit I've seen for sale in my area in a decade.

I plan to pop off the agitator and get a better look Underneath this evening to see more of what I'm up against. I'll post what I find, along with many other pics along the way. Google searches on this unit bring up not a whole lot. Hopefully that changes by the time this projects done as I document it lol
-Landon




Post# 1217519 , Reply# 4   10/28/2024 at 11:43 (196 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Landon, I don't have anything to contribute to the needed discussion at hand but a reflection. In late 1974/frist half of 1975 I lived in a small apartment complex in Austin TX. Friends lived in a similar complex that aws brand new and the washers in their laundry room were exactly like this. Bring back fondd memories.

Post# 1217520 , Reply# 5   10/28/2024 at 12:12 (196 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
There are manuals available for download in the manuals and literature section on this site. I should have spare braces if you can’t find any. Here are a couple good threads from the archives.

www.google.com/urlQUESTIO...

www.google.com/urlQUESTIONMARKRE...


Post# 1217521 , Reply# 6   10/28/2024 at 12:17 (196 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Melven-
Thanks! I really look forward to making this unit run like new again! I think it will clean up quite nice. I even got the keys and spare coin slide parts so all that will be restored as well!

This forum has been extremely valuable for me in learning more about these BD washers over the years. I'll be documenting all progress on this machine here as I go.

Also, I got a better pic under the machine. I'll have more soon, Gotta finish up some other units to free up space in my shop.

Seems ALL the support braces/brackets are missing. What a bummer. Also missing a hinge/retainer for the top. Are the top hinges pretty standard amongst these BD machines?

More pics to follow this eve. Thanks.


-Landon


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Post# 1217525 , Reply# 7   10/28/2024 at 13:06 (196 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Melvin-
That is very much appreciated. I'll call a few places tomorrow but if you have a spare set of braces I would gladly buy them off you. I'll update as I call around.

The seals seem to be available still, But that belt seems tricky to find. Is it a proprietary size? looks like a 3/8" V belt but the pulleys have quite a deep grove to them.

I think I have a repair manual for the BD machines somewhere. If I recall it was the "Do it yourself" one so not sure how in-depth it goes. I remember it being over 100 pages anyway. Ill see if I can dig it up, and check out the literature section as well.

Thanks -Landon


Post# 1217531 , Reply# 8   10/28/2024 at 14:22 (196 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
The belt would be a 96388.

Post# 1217538 , Reply# 9   10/28/2024 at 16:01 (196 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Before purchasing any parts, tear the machine down and check the condition of the center post. If that's too far gone, things get really interesting very quickly.

Post# 1217549 , Reply# 10   10/28/2024 at 16:59 (196 days old) by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)        

Nice machine for a coin-op. Did it come out of a washateria, or some place like an apartment building?

The lid is unusual, as it appears to be one like on a Kenmore, but opens to the rear like most other Whirlpool machines. The majority I've seen have the handle at the front. My cousin Diane had a mid 70's coin-op, but can't remember if if was a Kenmore or Whirlpool. Regardless, the lid opened to the rear.


Post# 1217552 , Reply# 11   10/28/2024 at 17:10 (196 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Fingers crossed the center post isn't pooched! I just removed the agitator and brushed off the shaft and retainer nut. Agitator came off easy, and fits a bit loose on the shaft. Splines are a bit rusty. Shaft has some corrosion further down but not as rough as I was expecting. Top and Washbasket will come out next upon further disassembly. Gotta finish the little GE/Whirlpool thing in the last photo for a buddy first lol

The Machine came from a very small trailer park and was sold alongside a direct drive machine that appeared very similar in age and design. Both where in use until a few weeks ago when they upgraded to machines with modern payment equipment.

Thanks


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Post# 1217557 , Reply# 12   10/28/2024 at 18:50 (196 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
You are going to need a new agitator shaft. I can see from picture one that it is rusted in the seal area and that’s what caused the water in the gearcase. As Dan suggested I would tear the machine apart before ordering parts to make sure it will actually be able to be rebuilt properly.

Post# 1217574 , Reply# 13   10/28/2024 at 23:28 (195 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

I'm going into this assuming it needs pretty much everything so I will most certainly be waiting until full disassembly to order parts. It will run again. It has no choice. I look forward to the challenge.

It functions and held water overnight a few days ago for testing, so it's got that going for it. I want to get it running functionally like new, and I want the rebuild to last so I'll make sure to do things correctly.

96388 comes up as a cogged belt. This unit has a smooth skinny one but could be aftermarket. I'll look for markings to double check

All this help is appreciated thanks!


Post# 1217632 , Reply# 14   10/29/2024 at 22:31 (195 days old) by 114jwh (Vancouver)        

Congratulations on your find Landon. Look forward to seeing updates on your progress.

I just completed another belt drive overhaul recently and found that this time around, parts were much harder to come by locally than when I did the first one in the thread Melvin linked to about 10 years ago. In most cases I did have to leverage eBay which does typically have the more common parts.

Its coincidental this one came up, a few months ago I saw an ad for someone that was selling about 10 of these and the older commercial version with the taller backsplash. From the pictures it looked like they were in a storage locker so must have been in tucked away for many years.

There was a recent thread about the narrow belt and I think when I looked at that time some parts suppliers had that listed as a cogged belt when in fact it isn't cogged like the standard belt is. If its the original belt it may still have the old Inglis part number on it but 96388 is the more common part number for the narrow belt.

Good luck and let us know how it goes


Post# 1217635 , Reply# 15   10/29/2024 at 23:30 (194 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
"It will run again. It has no choice. I look forward to the challenge."

The correct attitude, I like your style. Too many give up easily these days.


Post# 1217650 , Reply# 16   10/30/2024 at 10:54 (194 days old) by Ragnboneman (Ontario)        

Anyone ever try a solution for the shaft like a speedi-sleeve?
I use these on industrial gear boxes and motors that needed a quick fix.


www.skf.com/us/products/i...


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Ragnboneman's LINK


Post# 1217689 , Reply# 17   10/31/2024 at 01:35 (193 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Those speedy sleeves seem quite interesting. I've heard of a few other ways of restoring various shafts used in industry. Down the road when the NOS parts become full unobtainium, this could really save someone's machine.

I plan to remove the basket tomorrow to assess the tub and center posts condition. After that, I plan to remove the transmission to see how its doing internally so I can get various parts orders together. Then I can have everything ready to go for an excellent holiday/winter project.

Thanks again to everyone commenting here. I really like this machine. I've always had a thing for the "commercial" versions of various appliances.


Post# 1217769 , Reply# 18   10/31/2024 at 23:35 (192 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Here's where I'm at so far. Top came off with ease as well as the top splash guard.
No major rust on the tub rim, and the seal is in excellent shape.
The basket nut came off with ease with the proper spanner.
The basket is putting up a bit of a fight. I ran out of time for the day and will let some penetrant soak in and give it another shot tomorrow.
The underside of the top is in excellent shape with very little rust. A nice plus!
Note the mercury lid switch. Really cool. Not sure how common that is on old washers, I just wasn't expecting to see one here.

Any tips on gently freeing the stuck basket before I give it another go tomorrow? I'm very familiar with getting old, stuck fragile things apart without damage. Just want to be as careful as possible to not damage the coating or knock it off balance.

More pics of course. Cheers!


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Post# 1217775 , Reply# 19   11/1/2024 at 07:18 (192 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Yay, I’m glad it’s coming apart easily

combo52's profile picture
It’s super simple to loosen the basket just stand in the basket and rock your weight from side to side once or twice the basket will be loose at this point.

All whirlpool belt drive machines from about 1965 through 70. Used a mercury lid switch. The switch itself was very durable the little spring clip bracket that holds it with sometimes rust and break or get this lodged. Other than that they were no problems with these, of course they wouldn’t use mercury in an appliance anymore, so I don’t know if that was part of the thinking of getting rid of them.

If you need transmission braces, I have plenty of them. I could send you when you get to doing the final rebuilding.

John


Post# 1217784 , Reply# 20   11/1/2024 at 09:33 (192 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Earlier than '65.  Our 1962 had a mercury-capsule lid switch, functioning only in the spin solenoid circuit.


Post# 1217786 , Reply# 21   11/1/2024 at 10:28 (192 days old) by Ragnboneman (Ontario)        

Those Mercury switches were banned for environmental reasons.
Called a "wetted contact" they would basically last the life of the machines they were in.
Anything new has a dry set of contact and unfortunately they don't last as long

Now for something important!!!!!!!

If you have a mercury spill because you broke a switch do not sweep brush or vacuum it up
Do not touch or spread it around until you are ready to clean up.
You will need some rubber gloves and an air tight container to put all this waste in when your done
If you can squeegee or rubber spatula scrap it into a poodle collect it with an eye dropper or something like that.
You don't want to spread it around!
If you plan ahead because you know you are going to work with this stuff or your a gardener you may have some powdered Sulphur around.
This will bind with the metal and make it easier clean up
Open windows and ventilate area for as long as you can to get rid of any vapours.

Call your local waste disposal aka the toxic taxi in your area for waste oil and old CFL bulbs ect.
Tell them what you have neatly label it and see if you have anything else you want to get rid of too like old insecticide, waste oil, paint, solvents.
label all these things clearly and do not mix them with anything else
Keep in original containers for easier identification.
Make an appointment or collection, or drop it off at their disposal site but don't throw it in the garbage

Google this stuff
learn the right things to do.
Have a plan in place if you break anything containing mercury or toxic materials.


Post# 1217789 , Reply# 22   11/1/2024 at 12:46 (192 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

John-
I just tried standing in basket and shifting weight around, changing positions for around 30 mins. Not budging yet. It's a stubborn one, But I'll keep trying. May try heating up the baskets center post carefully with my heat gun later on. WD-40 soaked in overnight too. It's a tough one.

Ragnboneman-
I am always careful with anything containing mercury. Makes for the best switches ever. thanks for the cleanup tips if I ever have a spill in the future. My hobbies and doing my own oil changes have me visiting the hazwaste depot often lol

Cheers everyone. Will report back after more basket removal attempts.


Post# 1217814 , Reply# 23   11/1/2024 at 21:51 (192 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Gearcase removal

An update on progress. I wanted to remove the transmission to try another method for removing the basket. Came out pretty easy. As soon as I tipped the unit on its front a brown slurry began to dribble out at the agitator shaft.

The transmission is doused in oil and filth. I bet its the worst some here will see in a long time...

What a mess lol. This units pretty beat.
See pics.

Agitator shaft is pooched. I expected that. deep groove in seal area. Worn shaft in bearing area. There is also around 3/8" of side to side "slop" in the agitator shaft. Normal? I'm assuming the bearings in the tubes deal with the lateral load.

Also check out the pump. looks like a newer aftermarket unit. Look how the covers popping off.. unit somehow held water for over 20hrs with no leaks.

Everything under here is drenched in oil.

Update on basket removal shortly. Thanks for reading about my adventures with this clunker. We are only just getting started.


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Post# 1217817 , Reply# 24   11/1/2024 at 23:30 (191 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
It’s going to be running like new before you know it. There was definitely water in the gearcase. It’s not the worst one I’ve seen. The belt is original with a date of 4/86.

Post# 1217818 , Reply# 25   11/2/2024 at 00:17 (191 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Basket removal success!

Got the basket off. :D
My method was to first remove the transmission per my previous post.
I then spun the nut back on the drive block loose, perched a short piece of 2X4 atop it, and while lifting the wash basket off the bottom of the tub- gave it a good whack with a 3lb hammer. That popped it loose.

What's underneath is not great... Although very little rust on any parts of the tub, The center post is not too happy. Chunks of scale came off just with a scraper and what I'm left with can be seen in the pics.

Bottom of basket has a bit of rust too, but not too bad.

Would anyone here consider this center post salvageable? Or am I rebuilding this base plate too. It didnt break apart with me bouncing around in the basket for a half hour trying to remove it hah

Original belt eh? thats cool! It's still quite flexible and not in too bad of shape.


Cheers everyone. thanks for reading!



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Post# 1217821 , Reply# 26   11/2/2024 at 05:59 (191 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
The center post definitely looks rough. That is one of the reasons these machines get scrapped these days. You’ll have to remove the rust from it to see what’s left as to whether it can be repaired or will need to be replaced.

Post# 1217826 , Reply# 27   11/2/2024 at 13:53 (191 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Commercial belt drive washer rebuild

combo52's profile picture
Yay glad you got it apart, I’ve never had standing in the basket not work in 30 seconds you simply shift your entire weight from one side to the other about once or twice and it comes loose and I only weigh 150 pounds.

I would clean up the rusty center post unless it’s nearly rusted through I like to get a thin stainless steel sleeve and sleeve the outside of it. It’s much easier than replacing the center post and then you don’t have any risk of having a misaligned center post if it’s off just slightly from the base plate the machine won’t spin properly other people have done this, and had problems with misalignment.

That blue water pump is an aftermarket pump that was made in Israel. They were junk. I would look for a real pump. We bought some of those and they didn’t last worth a damn.

You definitely need a new agitator shaft. The transmission may be damaged as well. I normally throw out ones that have water in them because I have so many that never had water in them and start with a better one, it appears all three transmission braces are missing and that really causes problems, it’ll cause the machine to walk and vibrate more and put a lot of stress on the center post and bearings, etc. to be run without the transmission braces.

John


Post# 1217833 , Reply# 28   11/2/2024 at 18:38 (191 days old) by bellalaundry (St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada)        
Totally Enjoying

bellalaundry's profile picture
following this thread/journey! Where in Ontario are you?

Guy


Post# 1217925 , Reply# 29   11/4/2024 at 19:00 (189 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Melvin And John-

In the next day or two I plan to get all the rust off that post and see what I have to work with.
I assume that either way to do this properly, I will need to remove the outer tub. So that will be my next move.

I really like the idea of a stainless sleeve. Tried to find some posts about that but turned up nothing yet. More research needed. I want these repairs to last!

About the transmission, I need to crack that open and make sure its salvageable. Was likely ran a long time wet. Dropping in another transmission is out of the question sadly, as BD machines just dont seem to exist around here any longer. Even If one did pop up on ebay, It would end up being over $300 to my door because I'm Canadian. Agitator shafts gonna cost me around $200 alone from what I can tell.
But like I said, It was running just fine, and actually sounded really nice when agitating. Hopefully the shaft is the only damaged part.

I think a full disassembly, cleaning, replacement of seals, agitator shaft and spring and new gear oil will keep this transmission happy. Might be high hopes though.

The agitator shaft has alot of side to side play as it sits protruding from the transmission. fingers crossed thats normal and not caused by wear in the transmission case/bearings.

I will not be running this machine again until I find some of those braces (among the many other issues lol). Boggles my mind someone was probably paid to fix this thing and decided they where not needed. Sadly, seems pretty normal for the quality of work done in my city.

The pump has a "B" and a checkmark on it. and looks newer than the rest of the components under there. Still spins silky smooth too. Hoping to someday procure an OEM one but will make this work if I have to, or keep it as a spare. Around what years where these blue aftermarket pumps common?

Guy-
I am located in North Bay, ON a couple hrs drive from you it sounds like. Glad you are enjoying this journey! Although the parts list is piling up, This machine will live again!

I will say, that corrosion on the center post makes me wonder how my 1989 direct drive machine is holding up in that area... I'm lucky enough to still have one of my childhood washers and its used every few days. but thats a topic for another day.



Thanks all! trans will be popped open tomorrow afternoon after I pull the wigwag off so I can pressure wash it first! lol. More pics will follow.


Post# 1217933 , Reply# 30   11/4/2024 at 20:55 (189 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Commercial whirlpool belt drive rebuild

combo52's profile picture
It’s normal to have a lot of side to side play in the agitator shaft when the transmission is out of the washer.

It’s too bad. You’re not closer we still recycle belt drive machines that have good transmissions, and there are more new agitator shafts here in the states than will ever be used.

We have saved a lot of transmissions out of machines we junked, As long as they were made after 1964 when they beefed up the gears, etc., and they didn’t have water in them. You never really see a serious problem with them.

The blue aftermarket pumps showed up around the time Whirlpool stopped making them maybe 15 years ago, I wouldn’t worry about it just get a genuine one to have on hand at some point the pump may work fine till then, a water pump is not gonna bring the machine down.

John


Post# 1217940 , Reply# 31   11/4/2024 at 22:11 (188 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

John-
I would consider buying an agitator shaft off you if you have any spares and the time. As well as those transmission braces. Even a used shaft or one from an older unit with the taller spin tube in okay condition. Seems parts are more plentiful in the States even though this design ran for a few extra years in Canada.
eBays about my only option for most of these parts, But the shipping became unaffordable and poor when they discontinued the original Global Shipping Program. No local place is really willing to help me out. It's next to impossible to talk to an "old timer" who knows these machines locally. All I can really get locally for parts is 285134 bearing/seal kit and the agitator stud/seal. I found the OEM FSP spin tube (short) for around $65cdn, as well as the OEM FSP pump for around $40 online. Still tracking down P/Ns for transmission seals.

Here are a few more pics with the drive block removed. It appears to be in good enough shape to re-use after a good cleaning. You can get a better look at the center post now.

Also just removed the wigwag solenoid so I can get the oil and filth off the transmission.

Currently working on removing the spin tube and drive components. Bit of play in those bearings which is to be expected.

More updates tomorrow!


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Post# 1217961 , Reply# 32   11/5/2024 at 11:37 (188 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
Hi Landon, I tried to send you an email as to how to get in touch with me to get the part you need but it got bounced back. Don’t know if it’s a problem with your email or not. You may want to try. Emailing me with contact information if you like

My email is combo 52@mac.com


Post# 1217972 , Reply# 33   11/5/2024 at 15:57 (188 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

John- I'll email you shortly. Much appreciated. I just finished opening up and spraying down the transmission to see what I have to work with. Water has been in here awhile, But all the bearing surfaces seem smooth and gears and shift fork are in good shape. It's a little rough but I'm hoping its usable..

Alot of work to clean this up. I can see why they get tossed if they have water in them lol whole shop smells like gear oil and brake cleaner.

Tomorrow the outer tub comes out (carefully)

Thanks. pics below


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Post# 1217983 , Reply# 34   11/5/2024 at 18:38 (188 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Not looking good...

came across two or three more problems...

Obviously this machines been leaking from pretty much everywhere
rust near tub drain compromised the seal
Lots of rust on the center post hole in tub
Cracks at one of the tub bolts.

I'll be honest, I don't have much hope left for this machine...

Thats all for today. Cheers.


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Post# 1218076 , Reply# 35   11/6/2024 at 22:10 (186 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Removed base plate today to properly clean up all rust and corrosion. Heres a before shot after removing just the heavy scale and rust. After some wire wheeling and prep, It will be ready for a sleeve over the center post. The assembly will then be re painted.

The drain seal/pin trap assembly is the next P/N I'm tracking down.

Transmission cleaned up nice and should be re usable once re assembled. Pics soon once dry and I determine how I will re-seal the case.

My plan is to remove bearings and seals from center post AFTER re-enforcing it with the sleeve. The sleeve will be a piece of dock post, which will fit snugly over the center post, without interfering with basket spin. All my measurements check out so far, so long as the tub seal can handle it. It has pretty thin walls while still being strong, and is made of galvalume. Not as durable as stainless, But I think it will do the trick.

Thanks for reading. cheers!



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Post# 1218085 , Reply# 36   11/7/2024 at 05:35 (186 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
It’s coming back together

combo52's profile picture
I think you’ll get this machine back in perfect operating order, email me a list of parts you need and we’ll figure out how to send them too bad it’s so hard to send large parts. I have extra base plates for these Machines.

I’ve not tried using RTV sealant for a gasket on a belt drive Transmission, but I don’t think it should be any problem to do so. Often we were able to use the old gasket again, except in cases where the transmission really needed a total cleaning as yours did.

Galvanized tubing should work well for the center post when we use stainless steel we tack welded it top and bottom, but I don’t see any reason you couldn’t use a really good epoxy glue or marine sealant. Just glue it in place.

When I used stainless steel thin wall tubing, I was able to get the rubber center gasket from the outer tub over it however, you can actually assemble these machines without using that gasket at all if you just use a lot of marine sealant between the rusted tub and the center post. or you can modify the fit of a new rubber center post seal if you need to and want to.

John


Post# 1218145 , Reply# 37   11/8/2024 at 00:15 (185 days old) by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

John
I really appreciate all the assistance and encouragement! I will email you a list of parts needed tomorrow. I really look forward to this machine being all cleaned up and running as it should! Thanks again.

It really is too bad about the distance, I would have happily bought a "non-flooded/rusty" base plate and even transmission off you. Shipping would be hundreds.

I have some gear oil-safe RTV sealant, 3M 5200 marine sealant, and will purchase SAE90 marine gear oil. For the center post sleeve, I plan to use Loctite EA-3478, which is an industrial 2 part metal epoxy that is basically made for a task like this. Conveniently, I have more than enough leftover from a past project. Very strong, and will seal that post up well so no water gets between. It will essentially become one composite metal unit.

I'm still quite impressed with how the transmission cleaned up. The only damage is the washer on the input shaft is quite rusted and misshapen, and the clutch actuator has a flat spot on the roller (see pic) bearings/shafts have been cleaned with tube brushes, red scotchbrite, and solvents. They look great and have very little wear. A bit of pitting on input shaft/gear, But just missed bearing surface and points on contact. lucky! Gear and fork will look alot nicer once my replacement wire brush wheel arrives and I can get it fully cleaned up!

Still making progress, even with winter tire installs for myself and family taking alot of my time! lol

Cheers and thanks for reading! -Landon


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Post# 1218449 , Reply# 38   11/13/2024 at 22:12 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Rust is gone!

Progress is being made!
All rust has been removed from base plate, and of course the center post. Those heavy "scotch brite" style angle grinder disks really cut though the rust and deposits! Tricky spots where done with a small wire wheel on die grinder. Rust remover jelly was then applied to the center post and rough spots near the tub drain hole. The old bearings and seals where also pressed out of the center post, and the inside cleaned, and gone over with an old cylinder hone. The bottom side of the plate was rust free, So I scuffed the paint up nicely with scotch brite, and washed the whole thing thoroughly. Some pics below.

I cut a couple repair sleeves from the galvanized tubing. One spare just in case. The sleeve was thoroughly deburred, cleaned, and the inside will be scuffed up, as well as the center post, to help ensure a good steel epoxy bond. Once the new sleeve is pressed on, the base plate will be repainted.

Pics below of all the cleaned transmission parts. They survived the water quite well. No major wear or damage in any of the places that matter. That sludge was a nightmare to remove. RIP to my brake cleaner and rag stashes.

John- The parts help, and excellent tips on strengthening the tub mounting is much appreciated! as well as good conversation. Was nice to talk appliances with someone. Cheers.

I can really see this unit being quite decent now that I'm not looking at that rust! Heres hoping the next pics I post are of a nicely repainted, sturdy base plate in a couple days.

Thanks for reading


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Post# 1218459 , Reply# 39   11/14/2024 at 00:36 by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)        
I hope you took a picture of the intact transmission

neptunebob's profile picture

All those small parts, remember how they went together.


Post# 1218518 , Reply# 40   11/14/2024 at 23:47 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Bob-
Got a few pictures during disassembly in case of any oddities or confusion lol.
But I made sure I had a parts breakdown in hand before disassembly. Its not too much worse than a DD transmission, and much less tedious than the vintage clock/timer motors I routinely find myself working on.

Besides the controls and cabinet braces, this machine is as apart as it gets. Its been alot of fun so far!

The sleeve is fully prepped for install. One more round of rust jelly is on in a few tiny missed spots near the top of the center post. Sleeve will be installed tomorrow!

Thanks



Post# 1218524 , Reply# 41   11/15/2024 at 05:51 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
That base plate is looking great

combo52's profile picture
Hi Landon, your efforts so far approved that you can restore almost anything that one puts their minds to. Take some close-up pictures if you can of how that face plate center post is restored. I think you're onto a really great way of doing this more easily than welding the material around the base plate that we did.

It was a pleasure talking to you the other day. It's always fun to interact with somebody with such great abilities, hopefully this weekend we will get a chance to put together a box of parts for this project to ship to you once you get the pieces you need this project won't take very long.

I'm hoping this weekend to try to sort out the area where all the belt drive whirlpool laundry parts have been piled, my young friends Chris and Tate are going to be here this weekend and they can help organize and sort the parts.

There are still nearly a dozen belt drive whirlpool washers around here that I need to get rebuilt both for myself and a few others.

John


Post# 1218654 , Reply# 42   11/16/2024 at 22:03 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Refurbished base plate!

Made great progress on the base plate since my last posts. All is going very well!

Yesterday I Fully finished prep and made sure there where no dirt or oils on the plate or post. I then mixed up some Loctite EA-3478 (about 55g worth of mixed product) and applied it liberally to both the center post and inside of sleeve. I then pressed the sleeve on. Sleeve is a perfect firm fit so this epoxy bond should hold up very well and be plenty strong. See pics.

Today, I Primed the whole assembly with an etching primer, and then painted it. I used black paint since I had a few cans of Krylon stuff I really like, that has proven itself very durable. Pics below. I'm quite happy with the finished product! One rust free base plate with reinforced and protected center post. Once the new spin tube bearings and seals are installed, I will seal the two layers at the top of the post with 3m 5200 marine sealant. Just to make sure no water gets in any crevice and causes problems. I'm going to let the plates paint cure a few days before I do anything further. Nice to see this part finished and saved!

Hi John- I've always enjoyed bringing older, well made usually smaller appliances back to life. We used to make such nice things that just did their job. Always fun, and has saved me and family money many times as a bonus.
I appreciate the kindness. Repairing things has always brought me alot of satisfaction. Hope the sorting goes well. The efforts on locating these parts is very much appreciated! I located some 5/16" 1-1/2 OD stainless fender washers and some rubber gasket material to install the tub the way you suggested when the time comes. That tub is the next part to get properly cleaned, de rusted, and touched up.

Enjoy the pictures of my progress, and thanks for reading.


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Post# 1218825 , Reply# 43   11/19/2024 at 11:50 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Tub Time

Yesterday and today, I've been working on cleaning and de-rusting the tub.

I started by washing it down with Spray Nine, and then carefully grinding the rust spots with my Dremel. I then applied rust jelly to the deeper pits and around center post seal and tub drain areas. No rust remains!

Haven't decided what to use to coat these spots. The marine sealant should be just fine to protect around bolts, drain and post areas when I seal those. The enamel on the bottom of the tub is also worn a bit thin. Perhaps I should coat the whole bottom with something, But I need to investigate something waterproof that sticks to this material well.

I also threw all the machines hardware and small parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. Came out nice and clean. No gear oil left on anything except the inside of the cabinet now, lol :D

I'll have some pics tonight of the progress with the tub. Cheers everyone!


Post# 1218885 , Reply# 44   11/19/2024 at 23:06 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Here are some pictures of the outer tub after I removed all the rust. A few cracks around center hole, and of course the one bolt hole has one thats over an inch long. There are two small spots that are rusted though as well. One is at the tub drain. See pics. I may try painting the bottom portion of the tub with that bathtub enamel paint. Still thinking on that. I'm confident I can make this tub work and last.

I also cleaned up the inner basket and began de-rusting the inside of its post. Its in very good condition overall for the amount of use on this machine.

Thanks for reading. Tomorrow I'm going to clean up the motor and give it some oil. I Need a break from rust removal related tasks lol. -Landon


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Post# 1218890 , Reply# 45   11/19/2024 at 23:35 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
You’re doing an excellent job! When you get finished this machine will be ready for another 40 years of dependable service.

Post# 1218899 , Reply# 46   11/20/2024 at 06:10 by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Beautiful work. Thanks for showing, and thanks to all who are helping you.


Post# 1218942 , Reply# 47   11/20/2024 at 20:58 by 114jwh (Vancouver)        

Great job so far Landon and thank you for sharing the updates. I'm confident you'll have this up and running like a new machine.

As for bathtub paint - no experience with that myself but I'm not sure I would use it. I know when you use that stuff on a bathtub you can only clean it with mild detergent subsequently. I've never seen examples of people being happy with the results of painted bathtubs in the longer term so not sure I would risk it.

Many on the site including myself have had good success with POR15 however yours isn't actually rusty for the most part so it may not stick as well. Maybe just fill the holes and touch up just the areas you've sanded. The rest of the tub looks really good. You can get the tub repair kit for the mounting holes that includes oversized washers to seal a greater area.


Post# 1218975 , Reply# 48   11/21/2024 at 07:33 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        

Melvin, Chris, and James-

Thanks for your kind words on the progress so far! Alot of work, but going smoothly :) Lots of great people on this forum who have been quite helpful! I'm glad people are enjoying the updates and adventures in rebuilding this machine.

James- I think you are correct- I'll just touch up the spots that need it with a sealant I trust. No finish is as good as the original. Quite a few little rust pecks but I can cover them with precision. I dont want the possible problems that can occur if pieces of paint or sealant come off or get loose and trap dirt and water making things worse.

Update on progress- Currently cleaning up the sediment trap, air dome, and tub drain seal. All these parts seem in great shape to re use. Going to take pully and brackets off motor and start cleaning those parts and motor today.

Thanks for reading- Have a good day everyone!


Post# 1219337 , Reply# 49   11/25/2024 at 23:27 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Motor and other parts cleaned

The past few days I've been slowly working on cleaning up and lubricating the motor. It had alot of dust, lint, Belt residue and grease inside. It also had a good coating of gear oil residue all over it. I brushed and blasted in some electric motor cleaner and compressed air. I then knocked off the little end caps on each end of the motor and added a good dose of SAE30 oil to the oil wicks. Runs quiet and spins much more freely in test. Seems to be in good condition!

I also cleaned up the brackets and pully, as well as the air dome and trap assembly.

Next up is finishing the cleanup and touchup of the inner basket center post.

Thanks -Landon


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Post# 1219354 , Reply# 50   11/26/2024 at 05:28 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
It's looking really good

combo52's profile picture
This machine will be in close to new operating condition when you're done.

I rounded up most of the parts you need yesterday new agitator shaft spin tube transmission gasket. Don't remember what else at the moment.

Will try to get the stuff boxed up over this holiday weekend, we've been really busy at work always gets extremely busy around the holidays ovens and dishwashers seem to miraculously break right before Thanksgiving, lol

John


Post# 1219523 , Reply# 51   11/28/2024 at 21:57 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Happy Thanksgiving

John-
Very much appreciated! Glad you found a transmission gasket as well. Really didn't want to have to use RTV sealant. You have saved me alot of difficulty rounding up all these parts. I'm really looking forward to when it's time to start re-assembling some things, and am quite happy with the progress so far!

lol I can imagine appliance repair really takes off leading into any holiday! I sell a ton of oven bake elements at the hardware store in days leading up to any major holiday. Enough of a trend that I triple inventory of most common oven parts.

Hope alls well, and Happy Thanksgiving!
-Landon


Post# 1221459 , Reply# 52   12/30/2024 at 22:51 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Looks like I have everything I need

Hello all, and happy holidays. Hope everyone had a good Christmas!

I received all the parts I need from John on Christmas eve which is excellent! Procuring all these parts without him would have been sooo many separate orders and headaches/cost, so I am extremely thankful for the help!

John- I noticed you had included a large oilite bearing in the package, which at first I thought was a spare center post bearing. I now see it appears to be a new bearing for the spin pully. Thanks for that! The clutch actuator is also correct. Seems to even be an improved adjustable version (see pics)

Currently rebuilding the basket drive assembly. I've got it fully disassembled and have begun the cleanup. The parts are in good condition. good amount of material left on the three slides on the spin clutch.

There is a felt oil wick that sits on top of the pully. Am I correct to assume it provides a very slight oiling to the three pad spin clutch? Does not seem like it would be supplying oil to the spin tube/bearing if it just sits on the pully. Pretty cool design if so. Usually oil is to be kept away from things like this.

Should have the basket drive rebuilt by tomorrow, and then will move on to the transmissions reassembly. Cheers everyone!

-Landon





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Post# 1221465 , Reply# 53   12/31/2024 at 07:05 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Yay glad you got all the parts

combo52's profile picture
Hi Landon I threw in a clutch pulley bearing if it's not badly worn you don't really need to change it. You have to press it out of the pulley, if you press the bearing out of the pulley, you'll notice there's a groove behind the bearing cut into the cast-iron pulley, you put grease in that groove which can soak into the oil light bearing to keep that clutch pulley bearing lubricated.

That piece of felt that goes on top of the pulley was actually to try to keep oil from migrating out of the bearing and getting on the clutch pads. The clutch pads are supposed to run dry and if they get too oily, they would slip, if that felt pad seems too oily. You might try to de-oil it or grease it a little bit,

Will all be excited to see you get the machine running happy New Year's. Keep us posted.

John L


Post# 1221632 , Reply# 54   1/3/2025 at 19:35 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
We have a basket drive

Hey all! Happy new year!

Basket drive was rebuilt without any hiccups. Everything was thoroughly cleaned and degreased with brake cleaner while I had it apart. I had to replace the thrust washers between the pully as the old ones fell apart in my hands. I used blue loctite on the set screw as well after compressing the clutch assembly with a quick grip clamp to line it up with the hole easily.

John- About that "oil wick" on the pully -It absorbing excess oil from the bearing makes much more sense. I made sure to clean it thoroughly so it's dry and good to absorb more oil as the machine gets used. It was soaked in oil before I cleaned it.

I also did end up pressing out and replacing the bearing. That went very well. There was a radial groove in the pully behind bearing as you said. It was packed with permawick, so I let it absorb a good bit of SAE30 oil before reassembly. The original bearing was fine, But I wanted to get it out either way so I could properly clean it and soak it in oil. I'll keep it as a spare as I hope this will not be the last belt drive machine I work on!

More updates coming soon as I begin the transmissions reassembly!

-Landon


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Post# 1222225 , Reply# 55   1/14/2025 at 02:22 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
We have transmission!

Hey all!

Excited to say the transmission has been rebuilt! Was alot of fun bringing this assembly back to life considering what I started with. So much cleanup and prep to get to this point. Well worth it.

It has a new agitator shaft, New OEM gasket, replaced clutch actuator, and 16oz of new oil (Castrol SAE 80W-90 with the LS additive) I also noticed one of the shafts on the pitman arm was ever so slightly loose so I gave it a good squeeze in the press to tighten its "riveted" type fastening. AND I didn't forget to install the ball and plate under the agitator shaft lol

The wig wag plungers, cam bars and rollers have been lightly lubed with Super Lube.The cam bars where also filed carefully where there was slight wear to get rid of any rough or catchy spots. In a hand-run bench test everything turns and shifts very smoothly. I engaged the magnets with my test cord to ensure proper operation in all modes. Even got to hear that lovely buzzing sound the solenoids sometimes make. I haven't heard that sound in over 20 years. I'm happy with the results.

Now to mate the transmission with the basket drive with belt and make sure everythings adjusted correctly so the entire drive assembly is ready to be installed when the time comes. Will use turbine oil/SAE30 non detergent as recommended in service manual for the bearings.

I have Red n' Tacky and Super Lube greases on hand. Should I pick up some Rykon grease for the plastic T bearing and bottom oil seal? or will one of my two greases suffice? I know the Rykon deals with moisture best but If water gets to these parts there is already a bigger issue anyway lol

Cheers everyone! Next up is installing bearings and seals in center post, and cleaning up the agitator inside so I can make sure its a tight fit on the new shaft. It was a little wobbly on the old one and I'm hoping that's just due to the wear and rust.

Thanks
-Landon


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Post# 1222229 , Reply# 56   1/14/2025 at 06:13 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Whirlpool belt drive washer, mechanical restoration

combo52's profile picture
Looking good you're well on your way to a sturdy great functioning washing machine.

The grease you have is fine for the T bearing, it's obviously not a very critical part and I've never seen a lubrication failure on a T bearing less water has been going through the Bearings. The T bearing is really a spacer and a support to support the basket drive assembly.that allows the shafts to turn independently, but there's not a lot of movement against it, which is why they found they could make it out of plastic and it never failed.

Hi Landon looks like a good winter project. I've been hanging out in the basement. Rebuilding a 1968 versa Tronic GE range. I will post pictures soon. It's nearly done.

John


Post# 1222280 , Reply# 57   1/15/2025 at 07:33 by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Landon

jetcone's profile picture

You have the touch ! When you love a machine it doesnt' matter how far it's gone, determination and desire will restore anything in time ! 

 

But I am glad  you have John for this project he's the expert on belt drives and He will get you through this.  They're his secret passion! 

 

I love the gun metal gray tub never seen that and the tranny has the 1950s pulley with spokes SO COOL !


Post# 1227453 , Reply# 58   3/27/2025 at 16:05 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Hello everyone!

Sorry to disappear on everyone following this.
Work on the machine had to be backburner'd due to some major plumbing repairs that required me to break up some concrete and replace a majority of the 70 year old cast iron drainlines under my house.

I do all my own work while working full time so it took me awhile. Thankfully the upstairs bathroom remained unaffected due to where it connects to the main, so I was able to take the time to do it all correctly. All thats left is deciding on a new bathroom floor and plopping my old reliable toilet back in place. easy stuff.

I plan to continue work on the washer in the next week or two. Everythings as I left it, and the weather is getting nicer, So I'll be able to clean, pressure wash and possibly paint it's cabinet as well! :D

John and Jon- Thanks so much! The pulley is quite unique based on that I've seen on other belt drives. Perhaps due to the narrow belt. I love the color of the tub as well. The machine has a few uniquenesses that I love.

I got a handful of NOS pumps for the machine from a retired appliance tech. Two are the shitty blue ones (which are in FSP boxes...) and one is a genuine beige FSP pump new in the bag. Good to have some spares and one good quality pump for the machine. I took the old busted up blue pump (that somehow didn't leak) apart just for fun. I'll post pics soon, kind of a neat, simple design.

Thanks for reading, I look forward to getting this unit back to life and continuing work as I was :D

-Landon


Post# 1227456 , Reply# 59   3/27/2025 at 17:17 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
I was just wondering what ever happened with this project. Glad to hear it is still in the works.

Post# 1227459 , Reply# 60   3/27/2025 at 17:32 by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Congrats on finishing the plumbing fiasco, cast iron is a nightmare to deal with when it's old. Shoot us a picture of the bathroom when you're done, especially if the toilet is original to the house.

Post# 1228413 , Reply# 61   4/10/2025 at 00:27 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Plumbing and bathroom adventures

Don't worry guys, I'm not stopping until this machines one of my daily runners. Been lots of fun so far, and it won't be my last washer restoration, either :D

Bathroom floors almost done. I wish the toilet where original to the house, But it's still an older, unique powerhouse. MK III Eljer emblem from 1991. I'd pull it and take it with me if I moved lol.

The cast pipe replacement was pretty satisfying. Learned alot about my house to say the least. I'll have pics of the finished job and a few along the way soon!

Cheers everyone! Snows almost gone, washer cabinets ready to be pressure washed on my next days off. Lots of gearcase oil slung around in that bad boy.


Post# 1230395 , Reply# 62   5/3/2025 at 23:52 by VegaBass25 (Ontario, Canada)        
Bearings done

Hello all!

With my bathroom and plumbing back up and running, and thousands saved taking the time to do the work myself, I'm back in full swing on the washer :D

Today I pressed in the new center post bearings and seals. I gave the inside of the post another quick run with a small cylinder hone, and applied a thin layer of grease before pressing in parts.

The order I used for install is as follows: I pressed in the top bearing first, then flipped the base plate and pressed in the top bearing oil seal, and then bottom bearing and it's oil seal. I then flipped the plate back right side up, and pressed in the two main seals.

It went well, with no damage to anything. I used a piece of 1-1/4" ABS pipe to press in the main seals. I chamfered the inside of the pipe so there was no pinched seal lips. Did the inner seal, then used outer seal to guide and press the final one in. For bearings and oil seals, I simply used a stack of large industrial sockets that fit just perfectly in the center post :D No WP FSP factory install or removal tools needed. Just large hydraulic shop press. I'm sure it could be done with a hammer and patience as well.

I plan to put a tiny bead of marine sealant at the top of the center post to make certain my repair sleeve is sealed, and the original steel center post cannot rust at the seal and damage it over time.

I'd also like to install the outer tub on the baseplate AND THEN install the assembly in the cabinet. Just makes the work of sealing it all up much easier. Am I screwing my future self over doing this?

Thanks for reading! Happy to see those bearings and seals in place! Cheers.


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