Thread Number: 97204
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Whirlpool WTW4816FW3: Bad control board and Lowes warranty issues |
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Post# 1220373   12/13/2024 at 19:04 by RyneR1988 ![]() |
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Post subject basically says it all. After several weeks of my Whirlpool washer acting somewhat strangely, last weekend it exhibited enough of a weird behavior that I filed a claim through Lowes to have the machine serviced (my manufacturer warranty just ran out, so I'm stuck dealing with the extended contract through Lowes, which has been...pretty different). The washer would continuously run the drain pump after the cycle ended, even if I canceled the cycle. The only way to make it stop was to unplug the machine. In addition, most cycles would not spin. I could only get it to spin on the Rinse/spin cycle.
Surprisingly, technician appointment went smoother than most people report with this service contract. Problem is, the man diagnosed a bad controlboard and said the part needed to be ordered and that he would be back to install it when that happened. Inconvenient, but fine enough. Now here's where things get interesting. This afternoon, I receive anEGift card in my emailfrom Lowes for the cost of the washer, plus tax. I did not ask for a replacement, I wanted a repair. My only guess is that since it was the control board, they deemed the cost of labor and the part comparable to a new machine? Should I try to fight this and get the washer repaired, or should I just call it a loss and get something else? Also, a note of caution to Eddie/ea56 or anyone else who loves these washers. Apparently, this newest batch of this particular model is plagued by this control board issue. It's not uncommon for them to fail in just over a year, and it's pretty much the exact issue I'm having. I'm not sure if the quality control has gone down since this machine is now only sold through Lowes or what, but if you go on their website and look at reviews, you'll find many stories like mine. It's unfortunate, because they really are good performers, and apparently at one time, this control board problem wasn't as prominent, as evidenced by the fact that Eddie has owned his for nearly 6 years. It must be just this latest itteration of the 4816, as I don't see the same type of bad reviews on other VMW machines when I look. So here's my real question. If I don't fight this, and just get something else, should I try again with the 4816, or get another model entirely from a different manufacturer, and if so, what would that be? Since I have over $500 to use on something new, I can pay the difference if I have to in order to get something better, even if it is more expensive. Some advice would be really appreciated. This situation is honestly pretty stressful, I did not want to be here again. Ryne |
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Post# 1220374 , Reply# 1   12/13/2024 at 19:13 by Pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)   |   | |
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If you have to replace your washer i would look into the speed queen tc 5
speedqueen.com/products/top-load... or the maytag commercal grade non electronic washer www.homedepot.ca/product/... rayner1988 |
Post# 1220375 , Reply# 2   12/13/2024 at 19:19 by RyneR1988 ![]() |
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Post# 1220376 , Reply# 3   12/13/2024 at 20:51 by DADoES ![]() |
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Post# 1220377 , Reply# 4   12/13/2024 at 21:39 by Combo52 ![]() |
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Now you're getting somewhere take the $500 credit use it for things you really need
A brand new board from whirlpool is $158 a rebuilt one from core centric is $99 with a one-year warranty and you can take a chance on a used one for $24 on eBay. The board is not hard to change. I just changed one today on an eight year-old Maytag that had a different problem and I bought one from eBay for the customer for 50 bucks. Worked great. Board part number is W11603810 I dare say you can do it yourself by feel all you need a quarter inch nut driver a putty knife, it may be a needle nose pliers. John |
Post# 1220378 , Reply# 5   12/13/2024 at 22:02 by Pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)   |   | |
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like mention repair or look at this ge washer at your local lowes ryne1988
www.lowes.com/pd/GE-4-5-c... |
Post# 1220390 , Reply# 6   12/14/2024 at 01:13 by kalanikaau1 (Honolulu, Hawaii)   |   | |
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I'm guessing that Lowes has gone with a different underwriter with regards to their extended warranty contract because I had to use the policy many times in the POS Whirlpool french door fridge I bought new almost 8 years ago.
The star-crossed appliance required so many repairs, both covered by Whirlpool and the underwriter that after 3.5 years the underwriter wrote the appliance off and mailed me a check for the original price of the appliance, plus a pro-rated amount of what was left on the extended warranty. All in all the fridge racked up 11 service calls before the underwriter determined enough is enough, the last service call involved 3 door gaskets. Amazingly the fridge lasted until just last month, until the compressor overheated and almost set my home ablaze. There will be absolutely no new Whirlpool product in my home from now on. For what it's worth, my washing machine is a Speed Queen top loader, circa 2008, it is the father of the TC5 and features a uber reliable mechanical timer. If there's anything I don't need it's an appliance which "thinks" for me... |
Post# 1220391 , Reply# 7   12/14/2024 at 02:11 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)   |   | |
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Ryan - this is what I would do personally...but I don't know your setup or if this would even work for you... but if it would work for you, I would get a front load washer instead of a top load (if that's possible for you) I don't know if your space wouldn't allow that of if that wouldn't work for you in other ways...and the Front loader I would get is an LG... even one of their cheaper models are supposedly pretty good, the ones that are more basic that don't have turbo wash...I think those can sometimes be had for $650..
as for Top load washers, there are literally NONE of them I like aside from Speed queen classic or possibly the Maytag commercial top load... Other than those, UGH... I think Amana makes a decent agiator TL washer that kind of works like old school ones... but they are so cheaply made Seriously....are they not figuring out these control board issues after two decades?? I've gone through this EXACT same thing with my duet in around 2007 or 2008 when it was giving me error code F-DL (door lock) and it took several tech visits for him to diagnose it as being the control board. I think this went on for two months...I was luckily able to do laundry so it worked out...but sometimes replacing a control board can fix the machine and it can run for years more... at least that's my experience... |
Post# 1220398 , Reply# 8   12/14/2024 at 07:55 by DADoES ![]() |
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Post# 1220408 , Reply# 9   12/14/2024 at 11:13 by RyneR1988 ![]() |
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Mark, oh trust me, with that$500 credit in my hot little hand I'm itching to just go ahead and plunk down the other $300 or so and get the Turbowash LG FL I've wanted for so long. The reason I didn't buy it to begin with is that my parents bought me this cheaper TL set. But I'd literally never be in a better position to afford the LG than with that gift card acting as an extremely heavy discount. But as John said above, probably better to save that gift card for when I really need it, and try to replace the control board on the machine I have if I at all can. Probably a wiser financial move to do that. God, being an adult sucks. LOL
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Post# 1220409 , Reply# 10   12/14/2024 at 12:10 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)   |   | |
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Yes. I'm aware Amana, Maytag, Kitchenaid and other brands I can't think of are all Whirlpool. What on Earth would make you think I didn't realize that? LOL
Haha! I know it sucks...but that's what I would do...It sounds like you MIGHT have to go through some DRAMA to get them to fix it... especially since they've already sent you the credit for it... Hopefully it won't be too bad... Good luck with whatever you choose to do... Hopefully it goes smoothly and not too much runaround. |
Post# 1220411 , Reply# 11   12/14/2024 at 12:24 by RyneR1988 ![]() |
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Oh I'm sure they won't fix it at this point. I was looking around last night and apparently the same thing happened to a lady with a broken dishwasher. Her control board was shot and they didn't even try to fix it, just sent her a credit for the purchase price of the machine. So this situation is more common than one might think. If I choose to fix it at this point, I'm on my own or I'd have to find another service tech to do it.
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Post# 1220412 , Reply# 12   12/14/2024 at 12:24 by Pulsator ![]() |
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Post# 1220413 , Reply# 13   12/14/2024 at 12:27 by RyneR1988 ![]() |
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Also, the lady's DW was just a couple weeks out of warranty, same as me, and Whirlpool didn't want to honor it any longer. Look around online and you'll find lots of weird horror stories about Lowes protection plans. It would seem that I came out pretty good compared to others, but I would have at least preferred they try to make good on fixing the washer, rather than just diagnosing a bad board and going bye. Ugh
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Post# 1220415 , Reply# 15   12/14/2024 at 12:50 by kalanikaau1 (Honolulu, Hawaii)   |   | |
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I have to disagree with your recommendation of the Maytag so-called "Commercial Grade" machine, it uses the vastly inferior suspension rod design as opposed the the TC5's incredibly stout and robust "milk-crate" method of locating the wash drum.
Unless, of course one does not mind having to periodically replace the Whirlpool's rods and associated hardware. |
Post# 1220416 , Reply# 16   12/14/2024 at 13:01 by ea56 ![]() |
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Ryne,
I'm really sorry that your Whirlpool has crapped out. But I read somewhere at least 5 years ago (maybe in the Maytag FAQ’s online, not sure) that sometimes unusual operation problems can be remedied by running a Clean Washer cycle. According to what I read this cycle recalibrates the control board. I have no idea why this is, but after reading this I tend to run the Clean Washer cycle 2-3 times a year, even though I wash at least one load a week with hot water and LCB. Just for sh*t’s and giggle's it might be a good idea to try this, you’ve got nothing to lose, as long as the machine does still spin and drain you won’t be stuck with a washer full of water that you can’t drain. Maybe this may fix the problem. Otherwise, I agree with John, take the refund you received and replace the control board your self. I’m sorry that the control boards on these newer machines are problematic. All the more reason that I wish all washing machines still came equipped with old fashioned Electro-mechanical controls and timers. I never owned a washer equipped this way that had these old school controls fail on me. I’m glad as hell that my 6 year old BOL Roper just keeps chuggin’ along doin’’ what it’s supposed to do every time I press start. Good luck, whatever you decide to do. Eddie This post was last edited 12/14/2024 at 13:57 |
Post# 1220423 , Reply# 17   12/14/2024 at 13:56 by RyneR1988 ![]() |
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Eddie, your experience was what I kept in mind when I bought this washer, because it's so similar to yours. In fact, I believe it's literally the same mechanically, just a step or two up in the line-up so a few more options on the control, but nothing whatsoever different otherwise. I felt relieved to know that I was buying something reliable and simple for me to use, so I was highly disappointed when I began having issues a few months in. Not what I was expecting at all, given how well your Roper has worked out for you.
Unfortunately, I've tried the clean washer cycle as you suggested, I remembered you mentioning something about that years ago so I figured I'd give it a go. Still the same issues persist. I also tried unplugging the washer, waiting a while, and then plugging back in. I even ran that weird calibration sequence that exists within the diagnostic/service mode. No difference. I'm going to attempt to change the board and hope that fixes my problems. I just hope that when it finally comes time for you to replace your Roper, that you can find something as reliable as it was. Maybe these machines still are and I just happened to be one of the unlucky few who got a bad one. I'll keep everyone posted. |
Post# 1220638 , Reply# 19   12/17/2024 at 11:47 by appnut ![]() |
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Post# 1220639 , Reply# 20   12/17/2024 at 12:48 by RyneR1988 ![]() |
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Bob, that's right around 10 years, pretty good run for a control board I'd say
Mine going out just over a year in is outrageous. If anyone thinks I'm exaggerating, go and look at the reviews on Lowes' website for this model. I'd guess about 80% of the reviews on the first couple pages could have been written by me. Same exact issue and close to the same timeline. Very strange. The weird thing is that the lower-tier Amana washer, which I believe is the exact equivalent to the Roper ea56/Eddie has, doesn't seem to exhibit the same problem. There are a few bad reviews, but people seem to have an overall more positive experience with that machine. Certainly there isn't review after review from disgruntled customers stating that their computer boards blew out after a year. I find that odd, because one would think that the board is the same with slightly different programming to support the extra cycles that my Whirlpool has, considering they're the same machine mechanically. Makes me wonder if I would have had a different experience if I'd just gone with the Amana, rather than electing to buy the slightly higher-tiered unit. |
Post# 1220643 , Reply# 21   12/17/2024 at 13:37 by DADoES ![]() |
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Post# 1226554 , Reply# 24   3/15/2025 at 10:44 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() In a world with Joy, Liberty, Freedom, Beauty open to the ideals of human progress; this what the controls in Ryne's washer would actually look like:
Ryne, considering your current washer is so new the rest of the components should be able to last a good 5-10 years. I'd replace the electronic control and as others have said I'd use the money for other needed essentials. This post was last edited 03/15/2025 at 11:05 |
Post# 1226635 , Reply# 26   3/16/2025 at 16:39 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Whirlpool is out of touch since the people running the company and working for Whirlpool don’t have a clue. It seems as though Ohioans and Michiganders don’t know as much about quality control as Iowans do, especially Newton Iowa.
Then again, Michigan and Ohio are past the Mississippi River, must be something in the water and air past the Mississippi River that makes people oblivious to reality and gullible beyond belief. |
Post# 1226637 , Reply# 27   3/16/2025 at 17:01 by johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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Post# 1226644 , Reply# 28   3/16/2025 at 18:47 by Agiflow (Toms River)   |   | |
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Yes, Whirlpool is not "giving us their best" |
Post# 1226647 , Reply# 29   3/16/2025 at 19:16 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() If everyone was like me, Whirlpool would have long ago (at minimum) re-tooled their direct drive lineup putting forth what people actually desire. This right below would be their best selling model in 2025. Full user control, Metal Invensys timer, no electronics, direct drive mechanism, DA, spin-drain, white porcelain on steal basket, porcelain coated spill proof top, commercial grade clutch and motor coupler, 1 HP motor, fast charge fill water valves, 5 year parts and labor warranty. With consumers demanding it, it would happen.
Better yet, actually, if everyone was like me the dependable cares would be back in production with zero cheapening. One can only dream absent a revolution. |
Post# 1226648 , Reply# 30   3/16/2025 at 19:21 by Agiflow (Toms River)   |   | |
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Chet in your design here.. would there be the option to override that "water saving spray rinse" ? |
Post# 1226650 , Reply# 31   3/16/2025 at 19:38 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() In this particular concept model, no. All 3 cycles come with with a spray rinse only. However, there would be other models where some or all the cycles offer a deep rinse.
The beauty here is that you have two options to remedy this.
First all these various models would have a molex connector separating the top and standardized bottom half of the wiring harness. If somehow you ended up with a spray rinse only washer on your property, you could order a complete control panel (that also comes with an upper harness) at a reasonable cost and just swap the whole control panel for a deep rinse version.
The other option would be just replace the timer with a deep rinse version. Contacts 0TM-12TM are standardized and would be physically interchangeable with about 14 other timers having the same contact sequence and position. Of these 14, two other versions which give deep rinsing would technically fit the fascia markings as well.
So transplants would be easy, and even the norm in service work.
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Post# 1226655 , Reply# 32   3/16/2025 at 20:15 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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Post# 1226689 , Reply# 33   3/17/2025 at 03:43 by foraloysius ![]() |
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Post# 1226695 , Reply# 34   3/17/2025 at 06:42 by Combo52 ![]() |
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Have been used in many appliances over the years, usually for assembly ease, so the control panel can be assembled in one section of the plant and the rest of the machine assembled elsewhere, and then the machine mated together going down the assembly line.
They are mostly out of favor now as they add to the cost of the machine and definitely caused the machine to be less reliable, there’s two great a chance of bad connections and even burned up connectors and possible electrical fires, so most manufacturers have figured out a way to build machines without this extra reliability issue . John L |
Post# 1226718 , Reply# 35   3/17/2025 at 16:51 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() John, I appreciate your constructive criticism and I have to say I agree with you 100%. While in my inference I think a harness molex connector is far less likely to fail than those flimsy undersized modern board connectors; a molex connector is still one more component which can fail that would otherwise not fail if it were not present.
This is what I like about your insight, you're good at identifying potential failure points.
What I would keep standard across a dozen models is the timer connector. A single timer block would be able to electrically, physically and functionally mate with a dozen differing timers.
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Post# 1226806 , Reply# 36   3/19/2025 at 04:22 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() Agiflow, I went back to the drawing board and took your wish into account.
I added a regular cycle with a deep rinse and a generous 1 minute spray rinse to compliment that. I also sub-divided the sprays in the water saver cycle to better aid in detergent rinsing. Let me know if this is better, and what you would like to see offered.
Of note, I know that the wash fill periods are 6 minutes in duration, but in reality they would be around 4 minutes before the start of agitation. The timer typically lands about 2 minutes into the fill period from the lead in period to account for error and decal variants.
OP, keep your washer as it offers both deep and spray rinse cycles IIRC. |
Post# 1226816 , Reply# 37   3/19/2025 at 11:19 by GELaundry4ever ![]() |
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I always prefer a deep rinse over a spray rinse. I just feel that it's more effective, since I use softener anyway. I still prefer it even if I didn't use softener. I want all the soap rinsed out through a deep rinse through agitation. |
Post# 1226817 , Reply# 38   3/19/2025 at 11:23 by GELaundry4ever ![]() |
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What was Whirlpool's best washer? It's a shame that GE competed with them. |
Post# 1226871 , Reply# 39   3/20/2025 at 10:44 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() Jerome I would say Whirlpool's best washers were Kenmore and Kitchen-Aid with the wash/spin selector combination switch and dual action agitator. In fact I'd say these were the best washers ever created over-all in that it they were very strong in all categories. Higher end Kitchen-Aids and Kenmores offered all the wash/spin combinations you could ever need, all the cycles you could ever use, cleaned the best, had excellent capacity, lasted 15-20 years easily, and had a great suspension system. They were easy to fix too. As with every perfected timeless classic it was short lived. Whirlpool eventually discontinued these perfected high end direct drive Kenmore and Kitchen-Aids. I bitterly miss them. |
Post# 1226873 , Reply# 40   3/20/2025 at 11:18 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() Jerome, what do you think about single cycle washers? A hearty deep rinse cycle fits nicely on a 48 increment, 7.5 degrees per step, incremental advance timer. Those are my favorite timers.
1 step equals 60 seconds in the following sequence.
1 step lead in
6 steps fill
14 steps wash
2 steps spin
1 step spray and spin
1 step spin
4 steps fill
4 steps deep rinse
8 steps spin
1 step timer lead out
6 steps timer off period
With the timer dial landing 3 steps from off when set to start the fill period before the wash is about 4 minutes. So the cycle time is 38 minutes total. There is no spray rinse after the final deep rinse so your softener stays put. Long wash for dirty clothes and a hearty final spin for big towel loads.
Do you like it Jerome? Let me know if my concept comes out ok in text to voice. You've got the best tastes in laundry.
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Post# 1226876 , Reply# 41   3/20/2025 at 11:43 by DADoES ![]() |
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Post# 1226880 , Reply# 42   3/20/2025 at 12:27 by panasonicvac (Northern Utah)   |   | |
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When it comes to top loaders, sure I'd agree that the DD models were not only the company's best but also the best ever on the market. I own a Kenmore 90 Series myself. But I have used a different Whirlpool washer that was better than a DD and that would be a Duet, still to this day it was the best machine I've ever used. The only front loader that's really close to the Duet would be my LG. If I could bring back one washer of any kind, it'd no question be the Duet.
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Post# 1226882 , Reply# 43   3/20/2025 at 12:43 by appnut ![]() |
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Post# 1226884 , Reply# 44   3/20/2025 at 12:58 by DADoES ![]() |
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Post# 1226893 , Reply# 45   3/20/2025 at 14:39 by GELaundry4ever ![]() |
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I really like it. I love a nice and hearty full speed agitation, in other words it all lets loose. No holding back. Perfect for everyday sturdy cottons especially heavily soiled and stained ones. |
Post# 1226896 , Reply# 46   3/20/2025 at 15:07 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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Post# 1226946 , Reply# 47   3/21/2025 at 12:13 by Agiflow (Toms River)   |   | |
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Will just continue using full fill top loaders until they're either outlawed or they don't make them anymore or you can't get any more refurbs. |
Post# 1227302 , Reply# 49   3/25/2025 at 22:53 by GELaundry4ever ![]() |
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Low water washers are stupid. They don't get the clothes clean. At least the front loaders know what they're doing. |
Post# 1227334 , Reply# 50   3/26/2025 at 09:40 by johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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Just your inaccurate opinion.
Some low water TL washers can have issues, but lots of people around me have them and their clothes are pretty clean. You’re just spouting baseless words again.
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Post# 1227360 , Reply# 52   3/26/2025 at 19:06 by johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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Jerome you are so full of nonsense it’s not even funny.
Here’s a list of 18 washers, that are all HE top loaders, that have four stars are more in reviews. This took me 2min. to look up, while laying in bed. www.abt.com/LG-Top-Load-W... www.abt.com/Whirlpool-4.6-Cu.-Ft... www.abt.com/GE-Washer-With-High-... www.abt.com/Samsung-Washer-Smart... www.abt.com/Maytag-4.8-Cu.-Ft.-W... www.abt.com/Samsung-4.5-Cu.-Ft.-... www.abt.com/Maytag-5.3-Cu.-Ft.-W... www.abt.com/LG-Top-Load-Washer-S... www.abt.com/GE-Profile-5-Cu.-Ft.... www.abt.com/LG-Top-Load-Washer-S... www.abt.com/LG-5-Cu.-Ft.-White-T... www.abt.com/Whirlpool-4.6-Cu.-Ft... www.abt.com/LG-Top-Load-Washer-W... www.abt.com/Maytag-4.8-Cu.-Ft.-W... www.abt.com/Maytag-5.3-Cu.-Ft.-M... www.abt.com/GE-Profile-Top-Load-... www.abt.com/Samsung-Top-Load-Was... www.abt.com/Whirlpool-5.3-Cu.-Ft... |
Post# 1227361 , Reply# 53   3/26/2025 at 19:26 by ea56 ![]() |
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Oh for cryin’ out loud Jerome, have you actually used an HE Top loader?
My 6 year old Roper (built by Whirlpool) RTW4516FW2 on the Auto Sense water level uses just enough water to cover the load by approx. 1-2” and I can guarantee you that this bad boy has gotten EVERY load that I’ve washed in it spotlessly clean and well rinsed for the last 6 years. I wash 3-4 loads per week. The equivalent Amana TL is the NTW4516FW2 and the reviews on Lowes website gives these washers 69% 5 star reviews and 17% 4 star reviews. IMO this washer uses approx the same level of water that my ‘97 White-Westinghouse FL used and that was an excellent washer. My Roper has a Deep Fill option and it fills right to the last row of holes in the tub and with its dual action agitator it has the turnover of an old school TL. I seldom find the need for the Deep Fill, only for extra large items like cal king sized blankets, comforters and bedspreads which it handles with ease. It’s the best of both worlds. Plus it has NEVER failed to go into a balanced spin! Eddie CLICK HERE TO GO TO ea56's LINK |
Post# 1227374 , Reply# 54   3/26/2025 at 21:25 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() Eddie, your washer is based around an old school deep fill washer and essentially does just that. The clothes in your washer are suspended in water. I think what Jerome is referring to are agitator-less impeller washer that mimic the water consumption of a front load washer.
@John300m: I guess you've never heard of cherry picking. Or people payed to review products. Or AI moderation. Or terms of service which essentially forbid having a sharp tongue or a critical review. Reviews on company sites are the Walt Disney World equivalent of public opinion. |
Post# 1227380 , Reply# 55   3/26/2025 at 22:15 by ea56 ![]() |
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Chet yes my washer is based more on the old school design but on Auto Sense fill, Normal/Regular cycle it essentially operates like an HE TL and in fact on the lower left corner of the control panle it dies indicate HE/High Efficiency.
I can put an entire 3.5 cu ft laundry basket full of clothes in and it’s loosely packed to the top of the dual action agitator. The Auto Sense fillls until the load is compacted at the bottom with about 1” of water on top of the clothes and then begins to vigorously agitate. It’s amazingly effective. I owned a Kenmore direct drive 22 years ago (Shredmore) and it was aptly named. One of the worst washers out of 23 that I’ve owned, couldn’t get rid of it fast enough. The worst I ever owned was probably a Whirlpool Cabrio that I had in 2010. It had an impeller plate and always went out of balance on the rinse drain/spin and instead of signaling an unbalanced condition it refilled over, and over again attempting to balance itself. Never again! Eddie |
Post# 1227382 , Reply# 56   3/26/2025 at 22:56 by johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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Post# 1227383 , Reply# 57   3/26/2025 at 23:03 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() I think HE comes from the normal cycle using spray rinses instead of a deep rinse. In addition to (possibly) restricted hot water use on the normal cycle. I like the concept of spray rinses, I think it works well with typical loads to the point all washers should have at least one realistic spray rinse cycle.
Auto fill works well and Whirlpool perfected on your machine.
What model and year was your Kenmore? It sounds like you either had a single speed machine or one where the cottons/normal cycle was fast/fast. Around 1994(ish) Kenmore re-labelled the fast/fast cycle as "Heavy Duty" and made a slow/fast cycle labelled "normal" This concept carried through until the DD line came to an end. On the Whirlpool side of things both high and low agitation was included in a normal cycle instead of just fast agitation as done previously. |
Post# 1227386 , Reply# 58   3/26/2025 at 23:19 by ea56 ![]() |
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Chet, my Shredmore was a 2000 model and it was a two speed. Slow wash was too slow, nothing really moved around at all, and fast was too fast and it literally tore the sh*t outta the clothes.
On my Roper the Normal/Regular cycle does have tempered hot water washes and spray rinse. But should a load have excessive suds it intuitively knows to use a fill rinse and just extends the cycle time by a few mins. A very effective and water saving cycle. But should the need arise for more water I have the option which I use sparingly to conserve water. I realize that its not as conservative as an FL water wise, but it strikes a happy medium while being a helluva great performer. Eddie |
Post# 1227388 , Reply# 59   3/26/2025 at 23:36 by GELaundry4ever ![]() |
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I come from an era where the normal cycle did a real deep rinse. |
Post# 1227391 , Reply# 60   3/26/2025 at 23:38 by ea56 ![]() |
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Post# 1227392 , Reply# 61   3/26/2025 at 23:40 by GELaundry4ever ![]() |
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Tell that to the thousands and thousands of consumers who were very dissatisfied. CLICK HERE TO GO TO GELaundry4ever's LINK |
Post# 1227394 , Reply# 62   3/26/2025 at 23:49 by GELaundry4ever ![]() |
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Here's reality. CLICK HERE TO GO TO GELaundry4ever's LINK |
Post# 1227396 , Reply# 63   3/26/2025 at 23:52 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() Jerome, think 1970s-1980s Maytag with their one minute long spray rinse that produced near clear water in the deep rinse after a sudsy wash.
Some loads like bulky items I think work better on deep rinse. Others like causal everyday loads and cottons I think can obtain equal rinsing results with half the water of a deep rinse.
Right now I'm fact finding the average rinse fill time for a full load of typical everyday clothes, taking that number and dividing by either 0.5, 0.33 or 0.25 then trying to come up with a good spray rinse sequence. I'm also researching different tub and basket perforations that could aid in spray rinsing.
Given that spray rinsing can use less than half the water of a deep rinse, it is possible to use a warm or cool spray rinse instead of tap cold without using to much energy. IMO warm rinsing is where the real magic happens relaxing fibers increasing detergent carry away further reducing water consumption while leaving user with warm, fresh, garments that are east to handle while drying faster. In fact Whirlpool has even offered warm rinsing on their direct driver resource saving spray rinse washers.
I honestly would not mind seeing modern top-loads and their iterations with a reasonable 30/70 spray rinse on most of their cycles. |
Post# 1227397 , Reply# 64   3/26/2025 at 23:53 by ea56 ![]() |
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Post# 1227399 , Reply# 65   3/26/2025 at 23:58 by Chetlaham ![]() |
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![]() Jerome, I 100% believe you. There are many, many individuals who had and are having very poor luck with HE wet nap wash state impeller machine. It is of my belief there are way, way WAY more folks chastising HE machines than the internet currently shows with all the censorship and biased moderation going on outside of AW.org.
If you really want to get results out of the top load concept while using the same amount of water as a front load go with a Calypso or Maytag Neptune dual impeller washer. Both were realistic attempts at vertical HE washing and they did their job remarkably well. |
Post# 1227435 , Reply# 66   3/27/2025 at 13:23 by panasonicvac (Northern Utah)   |   | |
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As much as I dislike using HE top loaders, they definitely do work. My grandfather has one and as long as I put in smaller loads, it gets the job done. I was first introduced to a HE top loader from these two videos back in like 2010 when I first learned to clean out the outer bag from my grandparent's (now mine) Kirby G4 vacuum in their (now mine) Kenmore 90 Series washer. Again for a small load like that, I think it does fine for what it is. I have no plans on owning a HE top loader but if I ever did, I'd get the same Kenmore Oasis as this person. I just really like the looks of it. I think from my understanding, they also make one with an agitator as well.
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Post# 1227441 , Reply# 67   3/27/2025 at 13:53 by DADoES ![]() |
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![]() I have no plans on owning a HE top loader but if I ever did, I'd get the same Kenmore Oasis as this person. I just really like the looks of it. I think from my understanding, they also make one with an agitator as well.KM Oasis models are long discontinued. They were initially based on Fisher & Paykel's floating basket design, along with the WP Cabrio and MT Bravos. The VMW and VMAX platforms replaced it. I don't know if there were any Oasis-labeled models produced of those designs. |
Post# 1227490 , Reply# 68   3/28/2025 at 01:39 by panasonicvac (Northern Utah)   |   | |
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