Thread Number: 97533  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
GE GFW450 SSm1WW Front loader-stinky clothes complaint
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Post# 1224047   2/10/2025 at 14:24 by elksk (sandy)        

I have a real germaphobe tenant who has supposedly had diagnosed brain damage from a house with mold in the past.... the Washer machine was only used for 5 months before she moved in 4 years ago. She is convinced its the door gasket. The gasket looks clean and no smell to me. I did smell a t=shirt and it didn't smell good but she refuses to use scented or strong detergents like Tide... she only uses this unscented weird detergents.. . she isn't complaining about a mold smell but just a funky smell on her and sons clothes. She isn't the cleanest housekeeper IMHO. She called GE service 6 months ago and they told her it may need a new gasket. I gave her some of those Affresh cleaner tablets and the issue kinda went away for 6 months.. but she is complaining again.
I am a handyman and could do the door seal and actually had one delivered 6 months ago with the spring tool but sent it back after a week with no complaints.
I am considering buying an newer GE model with the microban and Ultra fresh vent system and odor block. I would need to make sure the dryer can stack on this new unit... the drtyer is a GFD456SSM0WW. how do I find compatible washer for it to sit on? I waited online with GE and had to press 2 every 30 seconds for 20 minutes or I think they would have hung up. The lady down south was nice but they dont have a stackable compatibility list.
I would ask the tenant to pay anything over 400-500$ I am an honest seller and how do you sell a washer that makes your clothes stink. I'm Tempted to put her unit in my laundry toom and use some real detergent. and replace the crappy newer washer with no agitator that I replaced my old Gem of a tank GE from 9'; that had the thunking gearbox that was my reason to come here in the first place a couple years ago. Gave that unit to a friend in a cement floor apartment and he loves it... we found a matching dryer for him and the old old repair guy at the store repair center asked him "how long are you going to live?" when I asked him how long this thunking machine will last.
I open to any suggested solutions....





Post# 1224049 , Reply# 1   2/10/2025 at 15:11 by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

petek's profile picture
Most likely it's one of two things but likely a combo of both.. She's using a piss poor detergent and overloading the machine.

Post# 1224051 , Reply# 2   2/10/2025 at 16:09 by steved (Guilderland, New York)        
Cold water washing

Always seems to go along with crappy detergent users.


Post# 1224053 , Reply# 3   2/10/2025 at 16:37 by me (Essex, UK)        

The smell is likely caused by bacteria growing in detergent and fabric softener residue that has built up on the outside of the drum and inside of the tub. Is she still regularly doing a hot cleaning cycle using Afresh? It ought to take care of it as it is primarily oxygen bleach. Adding oxygen bleach when doing a hot white wash would also likely help, if using liquid detergent. Using excessive amounts of detergent and softener, and only using quick cycles would also contribute to the problem.

We've been using front loaders for decades here in the UK, and smells only really became a problem when liquid detergents became popular and people started doing far less 60°C+ washes. Our powder detergents, apart from the colours ones contain oxygen bleach which kills bacteria and keeps the machine clean inside as well as being great at removing stains. The premium powders also contain TAED, which allows the oxygen bleach to work well at lower temperatures, oxygen beach on its own isn't very effective much below 40°C. Leaving the door and draw open between washes will help to prevent mould.

I would also remove the soap dispenser draw and use a torch to check for mould growing at the back of the dispenser compartment.


Post# 1224068 , Reply# 4   2/10/2025 at 18:11 by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

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torch = flashlight.. :)

Post# 1224075 , Reply# 5   2/10/2025 at 19:43 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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1) Avoid cold water washing.  Warm on the designated Normal cycle nowadays is barely more than cold.  Hot is the new warm.

2) This machine has an on-board heater for the steam option and Sanitize cycle.  Use it on a regular basis for cotton whites, towels, kitchen linens.

3) If she refuses to use HOT water for washing a load then run the Sanitize cycle with no clothes and a small dose of detergent and 1/3 cup of chlorine bleach every two weeks.

4) If she often uses the Quick cycle ... advise her it's intended to REFRESH a very small load (1 to 3 items) ... not to WASH a FULL load.

5) Quit with the cheap detergents.  Don't overdose on detergent but also don't skimp on it.  Moderate sudsing isn't the dire situation people believe it to be so.

6) Leave the door and dispenser tray ajar between uses.  Hang a towel over the door if necessary to insure it doesn't fully close.



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Post# 1224104 , Reply# 6   2/11/2025 at 07:31 by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
Dadoes

Dadoes is 100% accurate. Low temp washing, too much detergent, keeping the door closed, etc.
I don’t feel buying a new machine is a good solution if the problem will reoccur.
I have had good results with citric acid and clean washer cycles for buildup. Though, bleach would be better for mold/mildew.


Post# 1224117 , Reply# 7   2/11/2025 at 10:34 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

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Glenn's reply number five is spot on as usual.

Using too much detergent will never cause a stinky washer detergent generally doesn't stink.

It could cause a machine to oversuds and leak or possibly even throw a fault code but in general it's better to air on the side of using more detergent than less unless you have perfectly soft water.

John L


Post# 1224130 , Reply# 8   2/11/2025 at 12:54 by Mrstickball (Ohio, USA)        

Often times using oddball unscented detergents will build up residual soaps hidden in the machine away from the Microban components, and allow nasty stuff to build up. I bet the Affresh tabs took off a few layers of crud, but their lack of use + continual use of crappy detergents have brought it back.

Give her more tablets + run a tub cleaning cycle if the machine has it, and try to get her to move to Tide or another detergent with citric acid in it, or push her to use citric acid which is natural, but great at eating the muck up.Should go a long way to help her. Because I do not think replacing the gasket will solve whats behind it.


Post# 1224134 , Reply# 9   2/11/2025 at 14:21 by qsd-dan (West)        

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I would emphasize on running a tub clean cycle at least once a month. All of Glenns suggestions are spot on but most people are stuck in their ways and refuse to change. In this case, tell her to run a tub clean cycle at least once a month, once a every 2 weeks if once every 4 weeks isn't keeping things fresh and clean.

Post# 1224136 , Reply# 10   2/11/2025 at 14:35 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA (considering moving to Temple, Texas))        
running bleach

And tell her she needs to run bleach through the machine whether empty or with whites with hot water.

Post# 1224138 , Reply# 11   2/11/2025 at 15:24 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

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It's so funny... they think they are right... stuck in their ways... and yet the result of their thinking they're right (won't listen to other suggestions) results in a foul smelling FL washer.. You would think they would stop and think "Maybe I should listen to what others are saying".. I mean, if I were stuck in my ways, I at least would want a suggestion on what I could do differently if things weren't working out.

I don't think it has anything to do with the detergent (other than possible dosage) I think it's the cold water washing, overloading, and there's never a hot underloaded hot wash to periodically keep the machine clean... it just builds up from constant bad washing..

I'm not sure about these GE's dispenser design... but the vent fresh dispenser designs are horrible...that blue microban rubber on the dispenser is actually encouraging mold growth because it traps moisture in the nooks and crannies of the dispenser.. I've seen a video of a person wondering why their clothes smelled bad... it wasn't the seal or the drum... it was hidden inside the dispenser itself. He took the dispenser apart (which was NOT easy) and it was filled with mold...and I'm not sure if it's preventable...I don't know if taking it out of the housing and letting it air dry would even help...just because of the way it's designed. In that case, that's what was causing his clothes to smell... the dispenser itself...

here's the video if you're interested in watching


CLICK HERE TO GO TO mark_wpduet's LINK


Post# 1224156 , Reply# 12   2/11/2025 at 17:58 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Soap and detergent are different substances with different properties.

Regard to "soap" build-up ... soap products can do so via scrud, which is residue formed from fats in the soap combined with minerals in hard water.

Detergents are less likely to directly have that problem.  More likely is accumulation of laundry soil resdue that doesn't sequester in the wash water and flush away due to insufficient dosing, accumuating on / adhering to the exterior of the drum, interior of the outer tub, and the tub boot.

Scrud can form with both soaps and detergents related to excess use of liquid fabric softener, and lack of HOT water to melt/dissolve the scrud.


Post# 1224165 , Reply# 13   2/11/2025 at 18:43 by me (Essex, UK)        
reply #11

It's not solely cold washing, although I'm certain that would make the problem worse. A hot wash will dissolve and get rid of a lot of the detergent and softener residue and bacteria growing in it, but it takes maintaining 60°C or hotter for a few minutes to kill bacteria, without using additives like disinfectant or oxygen or chlorine bleach.

The one time we had a foul smelling washing machine, was my mum's machine, a top of line hotpoint microtronic, back in the early 90's. The main wash we used was a 50°C (122°C) synthetics wash, which was also for mixed fabrics. And never did any wash below 40°C and only rarely did a 60°C, or 90°C wash. We were using Radion liquid detergent (my fault!), which probably wasn't a great detergent. My mum cleaned the machine with chlorine bleach on a 90°C wash, went back to using a powder detergent, continued to use the same amount of softener and didn't change anything else and it never smelt bad again.

As for that microban dispenser, yuk, what were they thinking of! With that design it would probably still go mouldy even with leaving the draw open.


Post# 1224167 , Reply# 14   2/11/2025 at 18:57 by me (Essex, UK)        

Doh! 122°f

Here's a video, I've posted before about using TAED and oxygen bleach to prevent bacteria build up and smells with low temperature washing.







I'm curious why American washing machines have "normal" warm" and "hot for temperatures and max, medium etc for spin speed, instead of
stating the actual washing temperatures and RPM, as ours do?


Post# 1224171 , Reply# 15   2/11/2025 at 19:16 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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U.S. washers have not been labeled with temperature points on the controls since forever, except early in the ATC era when some models had a choice of ATC and non-ATC temp settings and the ATC positions referenced the ATC target for Warm or Cold.

There's otherwise no way to control the flow to a target temperature, and no onboard heating, so no specific temperature could be attained.  Hot is tap-hot which varies per the household water heater.  Warm without ATC otherwise is a mix of tap-hot and tap-cold at whatever is the design flow-proportion of the inlet valve ... so not a specific temperature.

Some in the 1950s and 1960s had mechanical thermostatic valves and stated in the user instructions or sales literature that warm was 100°F or some such.  More deluxe models had 3-solenoid valves which provided a Medium temp of tap-hot plus a warm flow (of tap-hot + tap-cold) mixed in.  But that also depends on the household hot water supply.


Post# 1224212 , Reply# 16   2/12/2025 at 08:30 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

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That warwick chemical powder sounds to me like what used to be Clorox 2 powder (color safe bleach) in the USA....which I think is now only liquid... I haven't used Clorox 2 in forever... I wonder if this is the same thing in one of the versions of Oxiclean?



the method that has always worked for me is when I do laundry, I do the mixed colors first, then jeans...finally, the white load... so the final load of my laundry session uses a little LCB (whatever amount the dispenser holds) which isn't much at all but is enough... I've always felt like that white load cleans the machine... after that, I know I won't be doing laundry for a few days.. I take dispenser out, drain it, sit on top of machine, then wipe the seal with a wet microfiber cloth... sometimes I'll go inside the seal and wipe there too, then I wipe the glass off.

Aside from making sure not to overdo it with detergent/ FS and not overloading the machine... that's literally all I do

as for temperature. I've never measured what the temps are but the 2 cycles I use are heavy duty and whitest whites for white loads.. Both default to HOT and uses the built in heater for both.. The least temp I've ever used is warm...but never ever cold


Post# 1224221 , Reply# 17   2/12/2025 at 10:18 by jamiel (Detroit, Michigan & Palm Springs, CA)        

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Seems frequently now, though, the "eco" or "natural" liquid laundry detergents seem to be potassium soaps which then leave mold/mildew forming scum all over. 

 

I'm intrigued by some of the "low waste" shops around which sell these types of detergents (one nearby claims to have a 5-enzyme cocktail in their laundry detergent) but then I remember I'm dealing with hard desert water and no matter the good hot water we've got here (washing machine adjacent to the WH) the scum is everpresent.  Needs to wait till we're back in Michigan with a softener.


Post# 1224226 , Reply# 18   2/12/2025 at 10:53 by me (Essex, UK)        
#16

Here, TAED is used in some premium colour safe stain removers, notably some versions of Vanish: www.vanish.co.uk/products...

The cheaper oxi-action bleaches have the sodium percarbonate, without the TAED.

It is also used in some off the better washing machine cleaners, such as Dr Beckmann Service-it Deep Clean Washing Machine Cleaner www.dr-beckmann.co.uk/pro...

And our premium powders like Persil and Ariel.

Oxygen bleach with TAED in it also gets used for whitening old yellowed plastic computer cases and the like:- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retrobrigh...

I use powder for most washes, usually mid range ones like Surf for cheapness, that have sodium percarbonate, without TAED. I use the 40°C synthetic cycle the most with mixed loads, and occasionally 40°C cotton. Rinse out the draw under the tap to get rid of the fabric conditioner residue and leave the door and draw partially open to prevent mould growth. I descale the machine once a year using citric acid on a 95°C cotton cycle, and that's the old cleaning it gets, and I only started doing that after about 4 years use, because the limescale seized up the coin trap and caused the element to fail. I had the machine apart when it was 10 years old, and the outside of the drum was clean and shiny and there was just light coating of limescale on the tub, so it definitely stays clean without needing cleaning cycles (my machine is so old it doesn't have a special cleaning cycle anyway).


Post# 1224227 , Reply# 19   2/12/2025 at 10:57 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
In over 50 years of working with and restoring washers

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I have never seen any kind of detergent or soap buildup inside machines.

Yes, there is lots of scum and mineral deposits from using too little detergent or using poor quality detergents, that's a frequent problem and yes, liquid fabric softener can build up to some degree if you don't have good washing practices and use sufficiently hot water and plenty of detergent to remove it from the machine and the clothing as well The next time the clothing is washed.

Detergents whether liquid or powdered generally dissolve very easily in water so even if some detergent was left from one load it would be gone the next time.

We fixed a 1994 Whirlpool Direct Dr. washer the other month where I had had the basket out out of the washer about three years ago to replace a failed basket drive block. The machine was beautiful and clean and an excellent condition for such an old washer. We went back two months ago because the machine is now leaking. There was so much grudge buildup in the bottom of the outer tub. It was almost a half inch thick and it had corroded the center post through the center rubber seal in the plastic outer tub, I had to pull it all apart, clean it up put a new seal in and seal it back together.

I asked the customer what has changed and she said oh I'm using these little laundry strips for the last three years, they're wonderful. The machine was gross but again it was not detergent building up. It was because you're not removing the dirt and soil that is in the clothing being laundered. It's settling out in the machine. I told her it's time to go back to using good detergent and hoter water.

John L


Post# 1224234 , Reply# 20   2/12/2025 at 13:00 by Logixx (Germany)        
"And our premium powders like Persil and Ariel."

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Really? That's interesting. It's in practically every powdered detergent (universal/for whites) here.

Post# 1224235 , Reply# 21   2/12/2025 at 13:44 by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)        

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I had a complaining tenant like that once, that wanted to do it her way, not the right way. Since it was my machine, not theirs, they were told to operate the machine the way I say and if you dont want to, go to a laundromat.

Post# 1224236 , Reply# 22   2/12/2025 at 13:54 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

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So this bleach activator...why is it not in Oxi Clean? I mean, I would think Oxi Clean would be a perfect candidate for that

Post# 1224238 , Reply# 23   2/12/2025 at 14:46 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA (considering moving to Temple, Texas))        
respect for machines

It just goes to show that people have no respect for other people's machines.

Post# 1224249 , Reply# 24   2/12/2025 at 16:11 by me (Essex, UK)        
bleach activator...why is it not in Oxi Clean

I think Affresh washing machine cleaner doesn't contain TAED either, which I would have thought would be an even stronger candidate to include it.

I believe 60°C plus is recommended for sodium percarbonate on its own, its performance tails off at lower temperatures. Including TAED produces a stronger oxygen bleach that works very well at 30°C and I believe I've read it is still fairly effective as a stain remover as low as 20C.

Here, it's not in Astonish stain remover, but as I mentioned is in Vanish.



Post# 1224292 , Reply# 25   2/13/2025 at 08:20 by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
Taed

OxiClean Home and Laundry sanitizer did have TAED, but it was recently discontinued. Plain OxiClean does not contain it, which I agree is kind of crazy. Lots of people use it as an additive in situations where it is not doing much., as stated above it needs a fair amount of heat. Affresh as far as I am aware does not contain it either. I recently bought a container of Vanish and really like it.

Post# 1224296 , Reply# 26   2/13/2025 at 09:45 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

mark_wpduet's profile picture
If someone is REALLY bored, which laundry products in the USA actually have this? I'm thinking it's not a very big list.. I tried looking this up... Not much luck.. they list the ingredients (but not all of them) so I can't be sure

Post# 1224307 , Reply# 27   2/13/2025 at 12:58 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA (considering moving to Temple, Texas))        
finish ultimate

If Finish Ultimate has taed in it, why not laundry detergent? You'd think the TOL laundry detergents would at least have it to activate oxygen bleach.

Post# 1224311 , Reply# 28   2/13/2025 at 14:34 by Logixx (Germany)        

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NOBS was developed by Procter & Gamble in 1983 and was first used in American laundry detergents in 1988. NOBS is the main bleach activator used in the U.S.A. and Japan. Compared to TAED, which is the predominant bleach activator used in Europe, NOBS is efficient at much lower temperatures.

-->


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Logixx's LINK


Post# 1224312 , Reply# 29   2/13/2025 at 14:36 by appnut (TX)        

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Clorox website has Powdered version of Clorox 2. I found it on Amazon and Walmart. But I've ben using Biz powder since 2001 because it dealt with a stain after surgery that wouldn't budge otherwise.

My best friend from high school,his mom used Clorox 2 powder and this was back in 1970 to 1973

I'd been using Axion as a presoak in conjunction with the 30 minute Enzyme Soak cycle on our Kenmore 800.


Post# 1224349 , Reply# 30   2/14/2025 at 01:12 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

askolover's profile picture
I've been using front load washers since 1997 and have never had any smells or mold but like has been mentioned already, I DO use chlorine bleach, I NEVER use cold water, and I ALWAYS leave the door open. Common sense tells us that a warm moist environment is perfect for mold and mildew to grow. But common sense is really not very common especially in America.

Post# 1224357 , Reply# 31   2/14/2025 at 08:49 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Reply number 30, amen

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My older Speed Queen front load washer is going to be 20 years old this year and I still marvel at how wonderful it smells inside and I’ve never attempted to do any cleaning of it. Just use it and use it

I once had a houseguest use the Speed Queen to wash several loads of his clothing and he was very picky about his clothing so he washed it all in cold water, when I went to use the washer a couple days later it had a mild smell in it just from a couple loads obviously your clothing is not clean if the washer smells when you’re done washing clothing.

This is another reason for not using a warm rinse you leave the machine at the perfect temperature for bacteria to multiply and grow.

Mold and smells are not limited to front load washers. We regularly do service calls where we’re asked to disassemble and clean top loading washers that are absolutely gross Because of poor usage habits.

John L


Post# 1224359 , Reply# 32   2/14/2025 at 08:59 by elksk (sandy)        

Sorry This OP hasn't been back until today. been prepping the house for a hardwood fllor sanding and refinish on both floors.

I did just order a seal but can always return it again.
and more Affresh tablets.
Tennant goes on vacation tomorrow for 4 days.
I will plan on washing with bleach and tide on super hot...the water heater is set to about 115f but I will turn it up for these 4 days.
I have no idea how she does her laundry. I will post the detergent brand on Saturday. I know she doesn't use any thing with scent but I thinks its probably ECO and sold at whole foods.
This current model doesn't have the microban in it.

I was thinking the best thing was to jsut buy a new washer but...
This is a stack location only. I called GE and waited 25 mins having to press the 2 every 2 mins or get dropped.. hate emoji goes here..
I wanted to find out was models will stack under the current dryer model. gal says they have no list like that.
Went to lowes yesterday and they have in stock a gfw550 with the clean vent and microban and its on sale so I could get it delivered for 770$. They wont install one under a stack or restack unless both washer and dryer are new. so I would have to do that plus they dont hook up unless all new hoses. I was thinking if tenant would pay 300$ this would be a solution and if it didn't work I would tell her to use a laundromat. But then I read the reviews and lots of smell issues and other failures on this machine. oh also its 1" wider in the specs and they couldn't tell me if my old dryer would stack but thought it would... no response when I asked what if my dryer wont stack on it securely.
So my questions are what is the best sanitizer I should be using to try to super clean this machine? clorox? we have oxiclean. I have diclor for my hot tub? How much citric acid? I have some we use for cooking and preserving food. I will watch all the videos everyone posted and take apart the soap tray. I can also try to scrub all around the lip of the seal...One solution was the 4800$ speedqueen tall unit with washer and dryer


Post# 1224361 , Reply# 33   2/14/2025 at 09:07 by luxflairguy (Wilmington NC)        

115 degree hot water? Shame on you! NO wonder there's a problem!

Post# 1224362 , Reply# 34   2/14/2025 at 09:19 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
The 115° water is not the problem

combo52's profile picture
Because the tenant isn’t even selecting hot water in the first place.

You can actually wash in cold water, but you have to use twice the recommended detergent and you have to use chlorine bleach on a regular basis so it’s cheaper and faster to use some hot water.

This machine has a heated or sanitized cycle. If you’re not gonna use chlorine bleach that must be used every few loads Always towels and sheets should be done on this cycle, regardless of the color of the items.

The newer GE front loaders are 28 inches wide, somebody that’s handy can figure out how to attach the dryer to the new GE front loader but you could also buy a better front loader like a whirlpool or a Maytag or even an LG if you could find somebody that will repair it in your area.

Also consider building a shelf and putting the dryer above the washer a couple inches that way the washer can be pulled out for servicing and replacement without having to buy a costly dryer as well in the future. We try to get our customers to build a shelf for the machine Greatly reduce the service expense.

John L


Post# 1224367 , Reply# 35   2/14/2025 at 10:05 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
I was thinking the best thing was to jsut buy a new washer ...
That won't fix the problem with a tenant who continues bad usage habits.  The Microban is unlikely to be the magical fix that you expect.


Post# 1224370 , Reply# 36   2/14/2025 at 11:35 by elksk (sandy)        

I thought 120f was the maximum tap water should be for Risk of burns?
That TEAD video was eye opening smell and mold after just 10 loads.
Now where to find a powder product with TEAD? perhaps the P&G Arial from Mexico can be found in Hispanic stores and has it.??
The Indian guy on you tube with that GE 650 with nasty mold with the microban and air fresh system.. and mold growing right on the microban rubber.. and that soap dispenser issue... yuck.. how can a company make untested crap like this.


Post# 1224372 , Reply# 37   2/14/2025 at 11:51 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA (considering moving to Temple, Texas))        
ultra fresh scam

The GE ultra fresh sounds like a scam to me. Supposedly it would let you leave the door shut and smell fresh.

Post# 1224377 , Reply# 38   2/14/2025 at 13:30 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
I thought 120f was the maximum tap water should be for Risk of burns?
Only if one exposes oneself to it for sufficient time.  Is anyone in the tenant's household expected to do that?

The trick you may be overlooking is that washers nowadays have ATC (automatic temperature control) ... electronics with a sensor monitors the incoming water flow and modulates the hot valve on/off to limit the mixed temperature.

The designated Normal cycle is the most restricted, being the basis for energy-ratings tests.  It's not uncommon that Warm on Normal is mixed at 75°F to 80°F and hot 85°F to 95°F ... even if the household water heater is set at 140°F.

Electronics and control software also allows different target temperatures *in the machine* for a given temp selection (Warm, Hot, Extra Hot) on the various cycles.  Warm and Hot on Normal will be cooler than on Whites or Heavy Duty.

Soil level also affects the temperature point.  Getting a higher temperature, a reasonably warm Warm and somewhat hot Hot requires 1) increasing the Soil level and/or 2) choosing a more aggressive cycle (Whites, Heavy Duty, Sanitize) and/or 3) adding a Steam option or selecting Extra Hot temperature ... all depending on what choices a given machine provides.

That's why you're being advised to instruct your tenant to run the Sanitize cycle (at the highest soil level) on a recurring/regular schedule so the machine's onboard water heater can do its thing for a reasonably HOT-zap to deal with residue accumulation.


Post# 1224389 , Reply# 39   2/14/2025 at 17:25 by me (Essex, UK)        

Here in the UK, the recommended temperature for hot water is 60°C (140°f), to reduce the risk of legionella, although it also should not reach 65°C, as that can quickly cause bad scolding. This dates back to us normally having hot water storage cylinders. These days, with most homes having instant hot water from combi boilers, it probably doesn't need to be quite as hot.

I wouldn't know what temperature is recommended in the US, and I guess with a rented property you might even need to consider the risk of litigation in case some fool manages to scold themself!

Our washing machines have always had a heating element to achieve the set washing temperature, these days virtually all are cold fill only, so they solely rely on their element.

I think chlorine based bleach and the peracetic acid produced by oxygen bleach + TAED should be equally effective at sanitising the machine and either would be effective at destroying bacterial spores too, which will stop it quickly coming back, so as hypochlorite bleach is more readily available, I would use that. Oxygen bleach has a few minor advantages, such as the machine won't smell of chlorine after the cleaning cycle.

When used as an in wash additive, oxygen bleach is colour safe (although with repeated washing, it can cause fading in some dark colours), less damaging to fabrics, and breaks down to harmless components. It should not be used on silk, or wool, or on fire retardant treated fabrics. I'm surprised if the tenant is a germaphobe, that they don't use something to kill bacteria, like a laundry sanitiser or oxygen bleach with their detergent.



Post# 1224390 , Reply# 40   2/14/2025 at 17:58 by niclonnic (Bonney Lake, WA)        
UltraFresh Vent System

I've had my new GE front-loader for two months now, and I can say with confidence that the UltraFresh Vent System is NOT a scam. It works by periodically spinning the drum while simultaneously drawing fresh air into the washer, effectively drying out the interior of all the moisture. This eliminates the need for me to wipe down the door and gasket with a towel. However, the whole venting cycle takes about 8 hours to complete.

I activate this feature every time my family is done with laundry for the day. So far, the drum has NOT gotten stinky; it smells like clean detergent in there. And, as an added anti-mold measure, I pull out the detergent drawer, dump the residual water onto a towel and leave the drawer on top of the washer to air dry.


Post# 1224391 , Reply# 41   2/14/2025 at 17:59 by me (Essex, UK)        

Is sanitise a better cycle to use than tub clean? Looking at the instructions for the GE, the tub clean cycle uses a higher water level, although it doesn't mention if it runs at maximum temperature. I believe I've read that the cleaning cycles on at least some UK machines also rotate the drum a bit faster than normal to slosh the water and cleaner over the hub and the top of the drum, which otherwise wouldn't get cleaned that well.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO me's LINK


Post# 1224396 , Reply# 42   2/14/2025 at 19:37 by elksk (sandy)        

I measured the water temp and its 136.8f. Not sure why I thought it was 120. Today I figured I would just clean it real well every where I can and possible replace the seal that I ordered. I went down to look at the machine to see how the soap dispenser looked and what type it is so I could maybe find a video on how to clean it and to tell her I am now down prepping the house for the hard wood floor guys and would really focus on this washing machine issue while she is on vacation. We had a little argument about her wanting me to pay for a hotel while she is on vacation. I offered to pay for a local hotel nearby if she is home for the finish drying days but not on her vacation or if she wants to extend days because I am paying for a hotel in some resort area.
I had intended to be really companionate and tell her I will really do everything to clean up the washing machine and help develop a cleaning regimen that will solve this problem. But my latest thought since its now a month to month lease is to just reduce rent 50$ and tell her I am removing the W/D in 30 days and she can buy what ever she wants and take care of it.
TMI I know. This whole hardwood refinishing timeline was to accommodate her. She had plans to go on vacation for a week. So I found a company that could start and finish the floor next week while she was gone. Last week she cancelled those Mexico plans and was going to Colorado but for a shorter trip returning Tuesday like 5 days early so She asked if I could have the floor guys come Thursday 4 days early and luckily they could. and actually came Wednesday to patch a damages area 2 floors above her.. This morning she complained about the noise the last 2 days and I am sure it was bad again today. She seemed to forget that she requested they start early on Thursday so maybe the finish would be dry when she returned.



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