Thread Number: 97540  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
Kenmore Single Cycle Dryer
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Post# 1224113   2/11/2025 at 09:48 by chetlaham (United States)        

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Has Kenmore, Whirlpool, or associated names ever offered a single cycle dryer? The only ones I know of are absolute BOL Kenmores from the late 90s/early 2000s. I don't know of anything besides those ever existing.

 

 

I am searching for a dryer similar to this:

 

 

 





Post# 1224379 , Reply# 1   2/14/2025 at 13:45 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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I believe they may have a long, long time ago. Definitely had a single cycle on the High-Speed Kenmore models in the late 50’s that only went up to 55 to 60 minutes.

Post# 1224392 , Reply# 2   2/14/2025 at 18:26 by Cam2s (Nebraska)        

Here is a Galaxy branded set I posted about a long time ago. Very BOL one cycle each and no modifiers.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Cam2s's LINK


Post# 1224397 , Reply# 3   2/14/2025 at 19:51 by turquoisedude (.)        

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It's not a good picture, but my 1956 Whirlpool Imperial dryer is technically a single-cycle model with only timed drying but with temperature control options.

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Post# 1224415 , Reply# 4   2/15/2025 at 01:53 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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Paul, this is exactly what I have in mind. I'm envying you lol. How does the machine dry? Would you make this a daily driver if given a chance?

 

 

@Cameron: I remember those! The dryer basically has a timed dry cycle timer except that the timer motor is wound for 240 volts and one lead of said timer motor was connected to the thermostatic side of the heating element instead of the incoming neutral. Very elegant way of  going from timed dry to auto dry without added complexity. I'm surprised this was not done more often.

 

 

As mentioned in the linked thread those were "bait and switch" models. We tried to buy a pair in the early 2000s and they basically refused to sell us said pair. The idea was to get customers to come to the store via an ultra low priced set or a set on an extreme sale, then up-sell to a MOL or TOL model. I think sales schemes like that are what helped do Sears in. Customers know what they want, not to be met with resistance.  

 

 

Anyway I'd love to see a Galaxy control system on a super capacity machine with drum light.


Post# 1224439 , Reply# 5   2/15/2025 at 14:56 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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From what I’ve seen in the archives from Tomturbomatic, Consumer Reports (Not Consumer’s Union) weren’t fond of these since the maximum dry time went up to 60 minutes which required models that only had a 5600 watt element to be ran through another cycle with 10 minutes more drying time to ensure things were dried to completion. More than likely was because there was a stationary bulkhead behind the perforations in the drum which let some of the incoming heated air bypass the drum and there certainly was some truth to that, but more than likely was with how heavily loaded the machine was, and or the duct length.

Maytags of this era up until 1965 went all the way to 100 minutes with 3 temperature settings (regular, wash n wear, air), but really didn’t need to to dry things for 100 minutes especially in the HOH models since the airflow was a bit more efficient since items were constantly in the air stream compared to the ‘65 and up Whirlpool dryers which were persnickety with how heavily they were loaded and the duct length, any dryer is when you have excessively long duct run.


Post# 1224441 , Reply# 6   2/15/2025 at 15:10 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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In my experience heavy loads take 70 minutes to dry in my Maytag and very heavy loads take a bit more than that. So it sounds right when adjusted for temperature and air flow. Maytag I thank had duct length worked out where even though while I can't confirm it GE would use a two heater system and switch one of the heaters off if the drum inlet became to hot.


Post# 1224443 , Reply# 7   2/15/2025 at 15:20 by qsd-dan (West)        
In my experience heavy loads take 70 minutes to dry in my Ma

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What's the drying time for an average large load in the Speed Queen washer? I imagine it's in the 40-50 minute range using the autodry sensor.

Post# 1224444 , Reply# 8   2/15/2025 at 15:22 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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Around 60 minutes, but thats me using medium heat and the dryer switching to soft heat before the cool down. The Speed Queen can hold more when packed reasonably and the water level turned up.


Post# 1224445 , Reply# 9   2/15/2025 at 16:03 by qsd-dan (West)        
Around 60 minutes, but thats me using medium heat

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Okay, that makes sense. That's definitely too long using high heat unless your duct run is massive with twists and turns. I can get a full load dry (and I mean accurately dried!) in one of my HOH dryers in the same time (maybe a bit quicker) it takes your 29" at medium heat.

Post# 1224446 , Reply# 10   2/15/2025 at 16:16 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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Here’s one observation I’ve made, whenever I have a load of laundry drying in my HOH, the air coming out of the vent outside feels quite damp. Awhile back, I went outside to where the vent is, felt the exhaust air coming out, was quite damp. Reason for that is items are constantly in the air stream and since it’s surrounded by a full 360 degree circle of heat, evaporated moisture fairly quickly despite a 4500 to 4800 watt heating element.

I haven’t actually timed how long mine takes to dry on the auto dry with the dryness set all the way up, but probably in the neighborhood of 45 to 50 minutes, 50 to 60 minutes with a fairly large load of towels. Mind you, this is with a thermostatic auto dry with low heat, not a moisture sensor.

Another possible reason for the reasonable and quick drying times for certain loads is it’s able to hold a more steady temperature with a lower temperature vs the 140F to 150F which is close to the high limit thermostat rating.

Someone really should put a 120F cycling thermostat in an electronically controlled HOH with the adjustable thermostat set to 95F, willing to bet it’d make it a bit quicker.


Post# 1224450 , Reply# 11   2/15/2025 at 16:36 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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I think the Speed Queen washer holds more than a Maytag. So that could also play a role. I dislike high heat, always have. Medium is ideal for towels and cottons, low for everything else. Soft heat I find unnecessary, and with the 10 minute cool down the load is almost room temp at the end of the cycle. 

 

 

Sean, ignore the diagram I posted in the other thread. I wrongly assumed the heater was on the other side of the high limit. Embarrassingly obvious, but now I finally see why you're auto dry setup was not working. I can't fathom not advancing the timer for a tripped high limit but I guess that is what Maytag was doing all those years. Anyway, moving on from this beaten subject.

 

 

I like the idea of trying a 120*F cycling stat. Gentle temps I think are worth experimenting with especially in a dryer with excellent air flow and moisture extraction. Do you have a 120*F cycling stat and if so do you have a part number for it?


Post# 1224451 , Reply# 12   2/15/2025 at 16:42 by qsd-dan (West)        

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"I think the Speed Queen washer holds more than a Maytag."

It's the same 3.2 cubic feet 19 gallon fill as a large capacity Maytag. Speed Queens 710 RPM spin is faster than Maytags 618 though.


Post# 1224452 , Reply# 13   2/15/2025 at 16:50 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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In that sense, however IMO I think the Queen can tolerate more (over) loading before clean-ability suffers. Maytag relies on water movement for turn-over whereas Speed Queen physically pulls the clothes through the water. 


Post# 1224453 , Reply# 14   2/15/2025 at 16:53 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        
Reply #11

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I just use the Supco thermostats since they are readily available on Amazon.

Post# 1224458 , Reply# 15   2/15/2025 at 17:27 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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Found it, thanks!

 

 



CLICK HERE TO GO TO Chetlaham's LINK

Post# 1224459 , Reply# 16   2/15/2025 at 17:29 by turquoisedude (.)        
Reply #4

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That 56 Whirlpool is the 2nd fastest dryer in the collection - I always found it dried evenly, too. It has been a daily driver in the past and when I get back from Australia in April, I'm planning on bringing it (and the matching washer) back into daily service after my 57 GE dryer crapped out on me. Again... LOL

Post# 1224464 , Reply# 17   2/15/2025 at 18:14 by qsd-dan (West)        

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"IMO I think the Queen can tolerate more (over) loading before clean-ability suffers"

The problem with Speed Queen is that they're very sensitive to indexing on larger loads which causes performance to suffer. They generally index like crazy for at least 1 year on average.

Speed Queen has 30 degrees more agitation arc and their OPM's are slightly higher (I counted 66 OPM's a few years back on a YouTube video) so I guess that makes up for it.

No filter, spray rinse is very brief, and I don't think the spray rinse was ever available in warm, even on the pre '18 models. Hot side of the water valve passage is narrowed for a cooler warm temp and longer filling hot temp. Everything is give and take though.


Post# 1224465 , Reply# 18   2/15/2025 at 18:28 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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The indexing stops after about two years of use. After that the tub bangs to a halt each time the transmission reverses the agitator. Speed Queen handles overloads better than a Maytag. In fact a profound overload in a Maytag can burn up the drive belt in that the agitator can seize to turn freely. 

 

 

The rest you are right about, the spray is brief and often premature. No warm rinse. The only way to get rinsing like on a Maytag is to set the timer back to wash at the start of the rinse.   


Post# 1224475 , Reply# 19   2/15/2025 at 20:41 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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This is pretty much why I am not too fond of today’s offerings, too many restrictions for my tastes. Should be able to do a gentle wash and fast spin for certain items. It’s either all or nothing with today’s machines.

Post# 1224518 , Reply# 20   2/16/2025 at 12:03 by qsd-dan (West)        
Speed Queen handles overloads better than a Maytag. I

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Why are we overloading washers? That's no way to get clean laundry.

I have overloaded my old A490 Maytag many times as a youngnin with a fluffy comforter, the agitation never slowed down and the belt never squealed. The motor overload protector never kicked in either (NEVER had the happen once except for an aftermarket 50hz transmission belt that didn't play nice in the spin cycle). But I have loaded items where they never rolled over once and the machine didn't care. I'm sure this was SOP in most laundromats back in the day. I find it hilarious that some think these just slip away on every load. If that was the case, transmissions belts would be replaced constantly.


Post# 1224521 , Reply# 21   2/16/2025 at 12:25 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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Sean, I do agree. Excluding Kenmore and some Whirlpool machines, Fast/Slow was available more often that Slow/Fast. I wish my Speed Queen had Slow/Fast. I was originally going to buy an AWN542, however after hearing about timers failing to start the motor I changed to the BOL model AWN412. The delicate/handwash cycle is hand-wash by default (intermittent slow agitation), so delicate items like a comforter require a time reset. Normal and PP are fast/fast which is great except for bulky, knit, and light weight items where I want slow/fast.

 

Dan: Good question. Its a bit of a habit. I like to sort loads by type and some loads like bath towels mixed with white cottons always end up being a really full wash just because those items get used the most and in large quantities. In such a case I like to run one full load instead of two smaller loads. I find Speed Queen washes just as well even when slightly overloaded and my dryer can handle the extra load no problem as long as extra time is factored in. In fact the dryer drum can be near filled to the top at the end of the cycle and everything comes out dry, untangled, fluffy and lint free. Whirlpool knew what they were doing.

 

In terms of why so many towels per day we have a tiled floor in the bathroom. I like to place towels on the floor since tiles are cold, two sets of towels parallel to the ledge of the tub or shower stall so drips don't get in between the grout and ultimately rot the sub-floor. Two more towels to dry off. Towels are typically washed after a day of use because I like them clean and fresh. It is also things like that which make me hate soft heat and long cool downs because I like towels to come out of the dryer very warm. It so luxurious to use warm towels especially during the winter.   


Post# 1224527 , Reply# 22   2/16/2025 at 13:32 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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I usually separate things and wash items with like items. A good indicator when I “overload” my Maytag A806 is when I put them into the DE806, if I hear the high limit thermostat open up which is audible, I take that as a sign I put a few too many items in. When I don’t hear the high limit thermostat open up, it means I loaded the machine properly.

Post# 1224729 , Reply# 23   2/18/2025 at 16:48 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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I'm drying a load of 15 bath towels of varying sizes, none are "bath sheets."  And one wash cloth.

On auto-sense.

How much time should it reasonably require?


Post# 1224730 , Reply# 24   2/18/2025 at 17:01 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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Here is what an average full load of mostly towels looks like for me. Is your load more, less or equal to this?

 

 

 


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Post# 1224744 , Reply# 25   2/18/2025 at 21:16 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Dryer volume is a bit tricky to visually compare on front-view vs. top-view.

Finished FLUFFY load put back into the washer, just a smidgen compressed so it's within the basket.

Folded.

Time estimate to start of cool down, and complete to end of cool down (to 95°F, 10 mins max)?


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Post# 1224830 , Reply# 26   2/19/2025 at 17:41 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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Good point. Here is my typical mostly whites load folded- 7 shirts, 13 briefs, 11 towels (about half are medium, other half large) and two small hand towels.   

 

 

About 80 minutes for dry time at medium heat.

 

 

 


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Post# 1224846 , Reply# 27   2/19/2025 at 19:10 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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You're estimating 80 mins for my towels to completion including cool down?

Regular cycle, normal Dryness level.  Display says Medium+ temp vs. High or just Medium.  Easy Iron says Medium without the +.  Heavy cycle says High.

The cycle matrix in the service manual references Heavy and Regular temp targets both as 149°F.  Easy Iron as 140°F.  There's no reference to the +.  Maybe it's related to sensor algorithms.  Or maybe someone on the programming team was being cutesy.

High 149°F runs both elements (3.6 and 1.4 kW).  Medium 140°F runs only the 3.6 kW element.  The 1.4 kW runs solo during the brief reverse-tumble periods.

Anyone else want to take a guess before I post the numbers later tonight?


Post# 1224852 , Reply# 28   2/19/2025 at 19:43 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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80 Minutes on my dryer. I start at 70 minutes on the timed dry cycle, and when it gets to 60 or 50 I move it back to 70 or 60. The cycle switches to soft heat about 10-15 minutes before the cool down, and then the dryer does a 10 minute cool down.

 

Larger loads get 90-100 minutes and stuffed pillow case get 100-120 minutes as those are really tough to dry.

 

Smaller loads above begin at 70 minutes and decrease in start time time as the load gets smaller. Dedicates get 40 minutes. 

 

In your dryer it would vary however. I'd imagine your washer is better with extraction, but at the same time I'm betting heating power and air volume is less over all. But then again air movent through the load might be better. So final numbers have my waiting in anticipation. 

 


Post# 1224859 , Reply# 29   2/19/2025 at 19:57 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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Keep in mind though that in my dryer the timed cycle used to be the 70 minute permanent press cycle and the sensor dry+ wrinkle guard used to be 130 minute regular cycle. The timer and gears at the same ~220 minute full revolution but the cam is re-notched for the sensor dry cycle and pulser system for the motor and buzzer in wrinkle guard. 


Post# 1224913 , Reply# 30   2/19/2025 at 23:33 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Via a countdown timer of 90 mins:

  - Damp dryness level at 71:38

  - Dry, Cool Down commences at 50:55

  - Off at 41:45

100% completely dry.


Post# 1224925 , Reply# 31   2/20/2025 at 09:05 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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So, Dry at 39 minutes 5 seconds (90:00 countdown start - 39 min = 51:00, 50:59, 50:58, 50:57, 50:56, 50:55 = 39 min 5 sec elapsed time to Dry).

Cycle w/cool down complete at 48 minutes 15 seconds (90:00 countdown start - 48 min = 42:00, 41:59, 41:58, 41:57 ... 41:45 = 48 mins 15 seconds elapsed cycle time to Off).


Post# 1224975 , Reply# 32   2/20/2025 at 17:30 by Chetlaham (United States)        
Love This!

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Not bad bad all, that is quick for the load. 

 

 

I want to ask now, how fast does your washer spin and for how long? Do you know the reset (drop on) temperature once the elements cut out at 149*F?

 

You've now got me thinking about my dryer's thermostat reset temp. In my Maytag dryer medium (around 130*F-140*F) is achieved via a continuous running bias heater which in theory might effect the closing bandwidth since (I would assume) it does not cool off as fast when opening.   

 

 

Only thing I don't like about your dryer (respectfully, no offense intended) is how the 1.4kw heaters shuts off on the easy iron (140*F setting). The way I imagine the ideal dryer as shown below is with a single 5,600 watt heating element that cuts out at 135*F and resets at around 115*F. The heater is capable of being energized throughout the whole cycle except for a 7 minute cool down before the cycle finishes. The 7 minute cool down is just long enough to leave the clothes reasonably warm but not hot at the end of the cycle. The 5600 watt heater produces fast results when running but the dryer as a whole never gets above 135*F.

 

 

 

 

 


Post# 1225325 , Reply# 33   2/24/2025 at 19:55 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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I did not check the exhaust air directly.  Diagnostics on the dryer reports the instantaneous thermistor reading in °C.  (Electronics, a scam foisted upon the people!)

Regular cycle.  Empty drum.  4°C (7°F) between element cut-out and cut-in (per faint/audible click of the relay).  The reading increased 1°C after cut-out, decreased 4°C further after cut-in until increasing (no clothes load to moderate the swing).

Washer spin is 1,010 RPM (or 670 or 330).  Holds for ~7 mins after reaching the target ... maybe 6.5 mins considering coast-down.  May occasionally reduce 1,010 --> 900 if load vibration characteristics are wanting.


Post# 1225335 , Reply# 34   2/24/2025 at 22:23 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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Ok, that explains a lot then. Your washer spins way faster than mine. Mine is rated at 710rpm according to advertising. In reality with an aged belt (and what not) it could be going lower than that. So that could at least partly explain the extra time in my dryer if not completely.

 

Element reset time sounds like it is giving less bandwdith than my dryer though I've never tested it.

 

 

Overall, not bad.

 

 

 


Post# 1225377 , Reply# 35   2/25/2025 at 11:16 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Dried a queen-size quilt couple days ago in 37 mins and some seconds complete w/cool down.  Regular auto-sense cycle.  Completely dry, no damp spots.  Washed in the Neppy TL.  It had a cabinet-impact-off-balance on one of the interim spins which limits the final spin to 500 RPM.  I spun it again at the full 850 RPM.


Post# 1225903 , Reply# 36   3/5/2025 at 05:24 by Chetlaham (United States)        

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Not bad. You don't do your quilts on delicate?

 

 

I think you see where I might be going with this LOL. I have a liking for lower temps.


Post# 1226326 , Reply# 37   3/11/2025 at 13:16 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        
In regards to the older 50’s WP/KM single cycle dryers

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Here’s one thing you could do to those single cycle Whirlpool/Kenmore dryers to make them dry things to completion without having to reset the timer for more time. All you do is acquire a adjustable fan thermostat (that’s what some people use to modify the cool-down on electronically controlled Maytag HOH’s), wire the timer motor into the thermostat fan thermostat, set the thermostat to what the low temperature thermostat is rated for. How it’ll work is when it reaches the temperature the lower heat thermostat is rated for, it’ll open up and let power flow through and start running the timer motor. If you are drying a load of towels or a large load of cottons, it will simply delay the timer motor from coming on until it reaches about 120F -125F -130F. Since the high heat thermostat is rated for 160F to 165F, the fan thermostat will stay open until it reaches the cool-down. Simply by delaying the timer from coming on for 5 - 10 -15 - 20 minutes, won’t have to worry about having to reset the timer. Just thought I’d point this out since this popped into my mind the other day.

Post# 1226337 , Reply# 38   3/11/2025 at 16:13 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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I've monitored the diagnostics thermistor reading for several element on/off cycles during a few loads at regular/high temp and with the drum empty.  The element relay clicks off at 57°C, with the reading sometimes increasing to 58°C before it begins to drop.  57°C is 134.6°F, not 149°F.  Element cut-in is at 53°C (127.4°F), thus the 7.2°F (4°C) differential  I have not checked medium or low temps, or made an effort to check the airflow at the exhaust hood.



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