Whirlpool 27" Dryer Overheating Help Please

I'm trying to help a friend with a Whirlpool 27" dryer from the later 1990s. It's the one with 4 rollers and the lint filter below the door. The dryer keeps overheating and blowing the high limit thermal fuse on the side of the heating element. I've replaced the high limit thermostat & fuse twice, the cycling thermostat has also been replaced, and the thermal fuse on the blower housing is good. The airflow is strong and unrestricted on a short vent line to the outside and the outside vent is free & clear. The dryer is squeaky clean inside, and there is no blockage or odd noises.

What could it be? I can see the heating element cycling on and off like it's supposed to (the back portion glows but the front doesn't. I assume it's because the cold intake air at the front of the intake cools the nichrome element so much it won't glow.

Maybe it's placement of the fuse. Does the high limit thermostat mount toward the front and the high limit thermostat behind it, or vice versa? Right now, the fuse is in the back and the high limit thermostat is in the front.

Assistance is much appreciated,
Dave


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Post# 1225933 3/5/2025 at 11:59 by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)
Checkrate/Likes I'm trying to help a friend with a Whirlpool 27" dryer from the later 1990s. It's the one with 4 rollers and the lint filter below the door. The dryer keeps overheating and blowing the high limit thermal fuse on the side of the heating element. I've replaced the high limit thermostat & fuse twice, the cycling thermostat has also been replaced, and the thermal fuse on the blower housing is good. The airflow is strong and unrestricted on a short vent line to the outside and the outside vent is free & clear. The dryer is squeaky clean inside, and there is no blockage or odd noises. What could it be? I can see the heating element cycling on and off like it's supposed to (the back portion glows but the front doesn't. I assume it's because the cold intake air at the front of the intake cools the nichrome element so much it won't glow. Maybe it's placement of the fuse. Does the high limit thermostat mount toward the front and the high limit thermostat behind it, or vice versa? Right now, the fuse is in the back and the high limit thermostat is in the front. Assistance is much appreciated, Dave

Post# 1225936 , Reply# 1 3/5/2025 at 12:51 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)
Checkrate/Likes 1 That�s a tricky one. John or someone else else might know, don�t have any long term experience with the Whirlpool 27� dryers.

Post# 1225944 , Reply# 2 3/5/2025 at 14:05 by DADoES (TX,�U.S. of A.)
Checkrate/Likes 3 � The shape of the element fuse and thermostat may reflect the correct mounting locations. Check if the element has a break or sags when heated and shorts to ground (touch the frame or housing). Is it mechanical control, or electronic with a heat circuit relay that may be randomly sticking?

Post# 1225953 , Reply# 3 3/5/2025 at 16:22 by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)
Checkrate/Likes *Thank you* It's got good old fashioned knobs. It's matched with a similar vintage Direct Drive top loading washer. The high limit thermostat and fuse have identical openings in teh side of the heating element housing. The exploded drawing shows the fuse in the back and the high limit thermostat in the front. 110.63032101 Keep 'em coming, Dave

Post# 1225972 , Reply# 4 3/5/2025 at 18:06 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)
Checkrate/Likes 2 Meanwhile, my Maytag DE806 is 50 years old and still working without a problem. View Full Size

Post# 1225994 , Reply# 5 3/5/2025 at 19:59 by DADoES (TX,�U.S. of A.)
Checkrate/Likes 2 � The exploded drawing shows the fuse in the back and the high limit thermostat in the front. Then those are the positions in which I'd mount them.� I have a disassembled specimen (Calypso-match) in my garage, which is the same. Your observation that the back area of the element presents as red-hot but the front doesn't may be a clue.� The thermal fuse is toward the back of the element box.� Pull the element out for visual examination if you haven't already done so. How is the dryer connected to the wall vent port?� If flex-duct, check that it isn't getting kinked to obstruct the airflow when the machine is in operating position.

Post# 1226001 , Reply# 6 3/5/2025 at 21:49 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)
Checkrate/Likes 5 *27 inch Kenmore electric dryer, tripping heater box TF* As others suggested, remove the heating element and check it very carefully for shorts if the plate is cracked, it will heat up and bend in short to ground and cause the thermal fuse to trip. The other thing is to be sure you�re using genuine whirlpool FSP high limit thermostat and thermal fuse if you�re buying the cheap stuff online from China. Some of it is just awful. They keep tripping. Also, if the female terminals that plug onto the terminals on the thermal fuse, don�t fit tight and if they�re corroded or slightly burned their building up heat and that will trip the thermal fuse. Be sure they�re in excellent condition. John L

Post# 1226125 , Reply# 7 3/8/2025 at 10:26 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes 2 *reply 4* Very helpful!

Post# 1226776 , Reply# 8 3/18/2025 at 18:04 by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)
Checkrate/Likes 3 *Fixed!* I pulled out the element and there was no sign of damage. Nevertheless, I swapped it out with a spare I had and now it's working just fine. Thank you for your input! Dave