Are there any washers made that could offer cold wash with a warm rinse, even inadvertently? Are there any possible merits or advantages to having a cold wash with a warm rinse? Cold wash, warm spray rinse? 

I'm thinking of such a combination as an option for maybe a hand-wash or hang dry cycle however I am unsure if its even worth considering.

Dan, I was looking for such machines, thank you!

Dan, this is what I came up with. I'm debating on calling the cold/warm cycle "hang dry" Otherwise I am unsure what fabric works best with cold/warm.

John, do you mean cold/warm rinse combinations or warm rinsing in general?

Warm rinsing relaxes fabric being better at detergent extraction and prevents soaps from re-depositing on fabrics.

Personally I think all none permanent press and all none fine delicate items should be rinsed in warm water. 

Whirlpool agrees to the merits, commercial resource saver washers use an ATC warm rinse on the regular cycle.

Dan, probably because of energy regulations and doctored lab test results. Cold rinsing might be ok down south, but not up north during the winter. People don't know better and just assume the machine is more capable at being smart than they are.

Easiest work around is just energizing both valves at the same time during rinse. Close off the hot valve for fabrics that can't handle it like silk and colors.

Right, but you still need to manually adjust the tempering valve before the rinse and afterwards for another wash.  

Right, but if I want a 140*F hot wash?

Pat, you know I like EM timers!

Here is the cycle and timing sequence for the washer in reply #4 

I've included the wiring diagram for the selector switches-

I'll do more research= sounds like a win/win.

Do you have a link to a good valve? The link you posted isn't working on my end.

No worries. Send it over, my email is open. 

Can I make the leap of assumption that woolens might benefit from a warm spray?

George, do you or anyone else by chance having a picture of this Blackstone washer? Thats what I am after and most interested in. I just know there was/is a purpose for cold/warm but I can't put my finger on it.

Of note, Maytag commercial washers had a dedicated woolens cycle. Deciphering the service manual, the woolens cycle defaulted to a delicate wash (2 minutes total of wash agitation plus 8 minutes total soak) with a cold wash cold rinse. Interestingly, the delicate/knits cycle defaulted to a warm wash cold rinse.

I'd be interested in those tempering valves. The ones you have, do they screw directly on to the washer hoses? Forgive my ignorance, I've never seen it done in practice except on hard plumbing installations where hot water (150-180) was tempered to something cooler like 120*F or 105*F.  

If you want my honest opinion, I think a 70/30 mixing valve is ideal for winter rinsing providing a just right temperature while not using more hot water than needed.

Thanks to @Spinspeed I found a video of this washer online. Does anyone know what the "woollens" does on the temperature selector switch? Is there an owners manual, service manual or tech sheet a member can link to?

I found a GE washer where warm/warm is used in a woolens cycle. I always assumed wool was washed and rinsed in cold water.

Learn something new everyday, saying thank you again! :)

Mark, that reminds me of adverts and service manuals pertaining to vintage US top-load washers that could only fill with either hot or warm water for washing. No cold options. IIRC all rinses were warm to.

I think cold rinsing is largely due to energy regulations more than anything else. 

Personally I believe all washers should rinse with warm water by default except where cold is absolutely necessary such as delicate and wrinkle prone fabrics. As an example, the washer I am imagining only does cold rinsing when set to delicate or wrinkle free. Heavy & cottons is hot wash / warm rinse, casuals & colors is warm wash / warm rinse. Normal and regular provide a warm rinse. Press care gives a cold rinse but wash water can be either hot or warm as determined by the colors knob. Delicate on the fabric type knob overrides both the colors knob and permanent press knob defaulting to cold wash/cold rinse on all cycles. This washer does not have a woolens cycle. 

Launderess, as much as I don't want to face reality, I have to agree with you. You are correct, many organizations advocated for cold rinsing while claiming no difference between the two. 

However I personally have to disagree and say this was in large part driven by destination science, shifting definitions, and unaccounted for variables with some good old fashioned fibbing. 

Warm water relaxes fibers letting water in pulling out much more detergent residue than cold water in the winter. I'm going to further by making a rather glib statement that warm water aids in extraction during spin. (I personally believe that the spin times of many successive top-loaders were not updated to account for the switch to cold rinsing)  I suspect Whirlpool has found a sweet spot in that ATC warm rinses are regulated to 75*C. Enough to sufficiently relax fibers, but no more energy used than required to do so. 

The cold ideology has also sadly spread to the wash. I notice in many vintage top loaders delicate and even knits recommends or is programmed for a warm wash. 

For example, Whirlpool's cycle logic laundry system had delicate listed in warm.   

My Speed Queen fabric care chart recommends warm for knits, delicate and even handwash:

Today however all you hear on the internet is how all these items should be washed and rinsed in cold water, including colored cottons.

I think all cold water has done is caused sludge to build up and ruin good washing machines. Vintage machines had it right washing in hot or warm and rinsing in warm water, not just because of soap detergent.    

(ducking and running) 

No worries. I'll ask Robert when he has time to drop by. 

I can't thank you enough. I knew such a beast had to exist. I'm curious for the specific reasons however. I wonder if it was just marketing by offering more features or if the company had a specific scenario or garment in mind. Its just fascinating to me. 

Slightly off topic but still relevant to what I have in mind.

So I overdosed a load of towels on Tide Professional. Perhaps on purpose... Lots of suds. Machine went into spin and spun slowly, was definitely suds locked. After the first spin came to a stop, I rotated the knob back to the spray rinse sub-interval. When the timer is manually advanced into this sub time interval, it holds for about 90 seconds, roughly. Not always, more sometimes, a bit less other times, but this time around it held about 90 seconds. After it came out of the spray I let the machine run until it stopped to fill for the deep rinse. I then advanced the timer to the final spin position, and let the load spin for about 2 minutes 30 seconds to get more residual water out of the towels. By this time I noticed the machine was spinning at full speed, no suds lock.

I then set and advanced the timer back into the spray rinse sub interval. It held about 90 seconds again. So 3 minutes of cold valve open time total. I let the machine advance to rinse and then before it began to fill I moved the timer to the wash portion of regular and let the machine fill with warm water and then agitate. I wanted to relax the fabric as much as possible. 

My jaw dropped. After letting the machine agitate for about 4 minutes, the rinse water had zero suds, cloudiness or film. I have never seen the rinse water this clear before in my Speed Queen.

From suds lock to spring clear water. Even with two deep rinses as I normally do for a suds lock there still would have been visible froth in the rinse water.

It takes roughly 4 minutes 30 seconds (maybe 5 minutes) to fill the washer from empty to full with cold water and with a load of clothes.

In the two extended spray rinses the cold valve was open for about a total of 3 minutes. 

Had I done two deep rinses the cold valve would have been open for about 9 to 10 minutes.

So in other words, with literally 1/3 the water usage spray rinsing achieved better results than two conventional deep rinses. And this is all without circulation, without modified basket holes and without an angled fill flume.

Wow!

There is tremendous water savings to be discovered with a spray rinse system. 

It is my theory that with warm spray rinsing these results can be maximized further.  

Full Size Image can be found and downloaded on Imgur for anyone skeptical:

imgur.com/a/U43Zada...

I also want to add that on warm the machine takes 3 minutes 52 seconds to fill to full. So warm sprays totaling 2 minutes would still result in about 50% rinse water savings and about 25% water savings in total.

Assuming we can go to 1/3 the water, 232 seconds divided by three is 77.3. So 80 seconds. So in theory three 27 second warm spray rinses could rinse the load adequately.   

Dan, you get it! :)

And I bet you let the machine spin for about 4 minutes after the initial 1 minute spray and then did another 1 minute spray followed by a 6 minute spin you could skip a deep rinse altogether.

Speaking about 6 minutes there are so many washers that only spin the load for about 4 minutes once the basket comes up to speed. A 6 minute spin after the tub is cruising helps with towels and saves energy in the dryer.  

4 minute spin, 1 minute spray, 4 minutes spin, 1 minute spray, 6 minutes spin,  =  16 minutes

4 minute fill, 10 minute wash, 16 minute rinse and spin = 30 minutes flat.

Faster than a total deep rinse sequence. Ultra clean clothes in a standard quick wash time. 

Just measured mine at 5 minutes 50 seconds (5:50) on max water level with a full load of clothes.

350 seconds divided by three = 116.6667 seconds

120-116 = 3 seconds

So 120 seconds of spray rinsing is ideal for cold sprays.

Roughly-

120 seconds of cold = 1/3 of a tub of water total

120 seconds of warm = 1/2 a tub of water total

Given that warm spray rinsing would be found on heavier cycles with heavier garments like jeans and towels, it works out perfectly.

Dan, great observations! You've got me thinking again lol. Do more spray rinse increments with long spins in between them have any benefit over fewer spray rinses that are longer in duration with fewer spin time in between each? Does one long spray do the same work as many smaller sprays of equal total duration? 

For example-

Start spin ; Spray 30 seconds ; spin 2 min ; spray 30 seconds ; spin 2 min ; spray 30 seconds ; spin 2 min ; spray 30 seconds ; spin to off

VS

Start spin ; spray 120 seconds ; spin to off

I use to think the prior method of letting clothes reach terminal saturation, then spinning them dry, then re-saturating them again (over and over) produced better results than one or two continuous running sprays however I am now question that assumption. I am now postulating that water going through the clothes is what does the bulk of detergent carry away rather than garments absorbing water then releasing it over and over again. This would also suggest that far more water passes through the fabric rather than bouncing off of it once critical water retention is reached during the spin spray. 

Hhmmm... That is something to ponder on. 

The latter offers a huge advantage in that complex sub interval increments are not needed on incremental advance timer. Of further advantage the total spin time can be shorter - 12 minutes instead of say 24 minutes.    

Dan I am thrilled you are also getting the same observations with water proportions. It appears that in the very least with Speed Queen, Whirlpool and Maytag top loaders 1/2 a tub of spray rinse water = 1 tub of deep rinse water.  1 full spray tub = 2 deep rinses.

Good starting point for further experimentation. ;)

Don’t even know the cold wash warm rinse is even an option on the later TOL Mark 18’s [sic]

Dan, I'd say you're correct. The only thing throwing me for a second guess is Whirlpool's Resource Saving spray rinse system that has 1.5 minutes of spinning in between each ~30 second fill and recirculate spray rinse. Other than that, I feel the most comfortable with two 60 second sprays. A sequence like 4 minute spin ; 1 minute spray ; 2 minutes spin ; 1 minute spray ; 6 minutes spin I feel the most comfortable with. 

Don't get me wrong, I like your idea of a tempering valve, however, it adds more complexity to the system. I personally like the idea of just opening both hot and cold and getting a comfortable temperature. It may deviate during the year yes, but it does the job in both extremes. 

Would it be alright to ask a picture of your tempering valve setup? And do you have videos of your 90 second spray washer? I'm still seeing 60 second sprays on your A606- so obviously I have the wrong washer in mind.

Also, I timed the warm fill to full (again) this time with only a few items in the tub out of curiosity's sake and got 4:08 seconds. So 2 minutes is literally half a tub, not bad at all.  

Alright, no rush :) 

I always assumed you had a A606, guess I assumed wrong.

I see now.

Dan, would you happen to know or have measured the time to a full tub on warm fill and the time to a full tub on cold fill? I want to compare your 90 second sprays.

I have this idea of doing a cool down if you will.

Spin 2 minutes, cold spray cool down 1 minute, spin 2 minutes, warm spray 1 min , spin 2 min, warm spray 1 min , spin 6 min.

Once the garments are chilled, I'd think a warm spray wouldn't set or create new wrinkles but I could be wrong.

I timed the wash fill on this machine at 4 minutes & 4 seconds and the rinse fill at 6 minutes &  3 seconds in this video.

The math works out just as well-

120 seconds equals half a tub full on warm

&

120 seconds equals half a tub full on cold

I'm seeing this relative pattern on a number of machines which is great to say the least. During the cold spray the Maytag in the video below slows down in spin only slightly toward the end of the 1 minute spray indicating terminal saturation is taking place toward the end of 1 minute and that the machine can handle a 1 minute cold spray with satisfaction.

I think I'm somehow going to have to modify machine to do warm sprays as a test. 

I noticed that too. The tub does lean and vibrate more than I am used to seeing. Something is not right, and I am willing to agree with you that there might be other issues such as to much belt slipping to much.