|
Thread Number: 97859
/ Tag: Vintage Dryers
A DE606 from 1966! |
[Down to Last] |  |
Post# 1228091 4/5/2025 at 17:34 by LowEfficiency  (Iowa) |
||
 Hey folks! I've been absent for a while, but recently came across a Maytag DE606 that I couldn't pass up. It was listed on Facebook Marketplace, and the listing said it had been in use up until a few days prior, but that now the button wouldn't stay in. For just $20, I had to go grab it.
View Full Size
| ||
|
|
Post# 1228092 , Reply# 1 4/5/2025 at 17:43 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
It had already been partially taken apart by the seller, but nothing I couldn't put back together in their driveway. I had to tape the door shut, as it seemed to be slightly sprung? (And also the knob was loose.) It looks remarkably clean, especially for its age. It has a "BZ" serial number, so that's December of 1966! It has the blue shaded control panel of course, and the white knob and skirt, but it's interesting to me that it also has the matte/brushed finished on the control panel trim/edges. I had expected it to have been chrome on a 606, is this something that is unique for the early years of the "new generation" Maytags? (The control panel on the April 1969 KDG606 I parted out had been chrome...) This one also had a white knob on the door - not sure if this was also correct for it, or if it had been replaced at some point? The panel back has a little bit of yellowing, but overall it's in great condition.
View Full Size
| ||
|
Post# 1228093 , Reply# 2 4/5/2025 at 17:48 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
Control panel shot. This one still has the "WASH-WEAR" nomenclature, which means that of the three "new generation" Halo-of-Heat dryers I've had, all three had different wording! This December 1969 DE606 is "WASH-WEAR", the April 1969 KDG606 I parted out had it as "PERMANENT PRESS", and my August 1975 DE806 has it as "HEAVY".
View Full Size
This post was last edited 04/05/2025 at 18:12 | ||
| Post# 1228094 , Reply# 3 4/5/2025 at 17:49 by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
 | ||
|
Post# 1228096 , Reply# 4 4/5/2025 at 18:02 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
The DE606 electrical schematic diagram from inside the top cover. The later service manuals show that there were three iterations of the design: * DE606 with reed switch and wire baffle * DE606 with SCR and bar baffle * DE606 with SCR and bar baffle without pilot light This here is the reed switch / wire baffle variant, but since this predates the SCR version of the electronic control, or the bar baffles in the drum, it didn't have any clarifying descriptors. It's just "MODEL DE606" in this schematic.
View Full Size
| ||
|
Post# 1228097 , Reply# 5 4/5/2025 at 18:02 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
| ||
|
Post# 1228098 , Reply# 6 4/5/2025 at 18:08 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
Working our way inside, there is nothing out of place, other than being linty. This was a nice find - a completely different story from the rusted and corroded parts of the gas version of the same dryer that I took apart a couple years back: "Avocado Maytag KA606 / KDG606 Parts Machine Pair" www.automaticwasher.org/c... The push action on the knob here was VERY gummed up - took a fair amount of force to push in, and it was slow to pop back out. A few drops of oil and it was moving as it should. The switch itself looks brand new, but the dust on it says it has been there at least a little while.
View Full Size
| ||
|
Post# 1228099 , Reply# 7 4/5/2025 at 18:17 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
I think there is a motor in there somewhere? Massive amount of lint and debris in the bottom of this one. The whole bottom of the machine was "felted" with lint. The motor pulley was loose on the shaft too.
View Full Size
| ||
|
Post# 1228100 , Reply# 8 4/5/2025 at 18:20 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
Looks better with a quick vacuuming. Anyone know why a prior owner or service person would have tied the tensioning spring to the side like that? I found quite a bit of metallic debris down there too (second picture). I can't imagine the metal heating coil was too happy to have that come through... | ||
|
Post# 1228101 , Reply# 9 4/5/2025 at 18:24 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
Almost forgot this picture - over 58 years of use, and not a speck of rust on this one.
View Full Size
| ||
|
Post# 1228103 , Reply# 10 4/5/2025 at 18:37 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
So I wired up a cord for 120V operation, plugged it in, and tested out the symptoms. True to the seller's word, the dryer would only run when the button was pressed. I pressed and released the button a couple times, listening for the centrifugal switch (I'm pretty sure I could hear it), and pondering why it wouldn't keep running if the switch was actuating. Then I smelled something, looked over the back, and smoke was POURING out of the motor! It was probably only 10 seconds or so of run time, but it took several days of fans running to get that smell out of the house. A closer inspection found that several terminals on the centrifugal switch had been getting quite hot. The insulation on the wiring clipped to these terminals had also been burned back.
View Full Size
| ||
| Post# 1228105 , Reply# 11 4/5/2025 at 18:43 by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
LowEfficiency, dumb question, but do you still have the shroud, burner cone, gas valve from that Maytag DG606 you parted out or not? Thinking about obtaining those parts to convert my Maytag DE806 into a gas version, if I end up moving to a location that doesn’t have electric available. There’s still a Maytag HOH (was gas) lurking in the appliance junkyard in AZ, just have to snag the front panel (rear panel as well) since it has the small opening for the pilot light and burner assembly.
| ||
|
Post# 1228106 , Reply# 12 4/5/2025 at 18:51 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
Removing and opening the centrifugal switch explained part of the issue. It appears as though one set of the contacts had welded themselves together. Tracing the schematic, this fault would have resulted in the start winding being permanently paralleled with the run winding, which obviously isn't good. The burned terminals, however, are on the second set of contacts which were operating normally (ie: not welded together). This is the loop which goes through the heating element, the high limit and regulating thermostats, etc. I wonder if this could have been collateral damage from the heating element being shorted out by one of those coins, nails, etc, that had found their way through the front seal? (The front seal was missing, by the way. Not loose or fallen off inside, completely missing.)
View Full Size
| ||
|
Post# 1228107 , Reply# 13 4/5/2025 at 18:55 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
A more specific diagram of how the switch failure had presented itself.
View Full Size
| ||
|
Post# 1228108 , Reply# 14 4/5/2025 at 19:02 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
Sorry Sean, I don't think I do! I can check next time I go to our storage unit, but I'm pretty sure we only saved the parts that would have been useful as spares for our electric DE806. The insides of that dryer were a mess from the corrosion... I remember trying to unplug the electrical connections, and the metal would just snap in your fingers. | ||
| Post# 1228109 , Reply# 15 4/5/2025 at 19:06 by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
|
| ||
| Post# 1228110 , Reply# 16 4/5/2025 at 19:10 by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
|
Reply #14 | ||
| Post# 1228113 , Reply# 17 4/5/2025 at 19:53 by qsd-dan (West) | ||
Great to see you you posting again!
The first couple of years saw a few different console changes on the washers, I think the dryers went through the same changes. The motor has been changed out sometime, all motors in 1966 for washers and dryers were round back then. Some of the the centrifugal motor switches on both HOH and SOH dryers are interchangeable, grab one from an SOH if you have a spare one handy. | ||
|
Post# 1228148 , Reply# 18 4/6/2025 at 08:36 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
||
Original 1966 DE606 HOH dryer
Hi Dave looks like it should be a pretty easy restore, the reason someone added a strap to the tension spring is because the motor pulley is completely worn out and the drum I’m sure wouldn’t turn without that extra pull, Maytag changed to a steel pulley so they wouldn’t wear out like that. It was a part that we used to change all the time on these earlier HOH dryers, the groove on the blower pulley might be quite worn too if it’s still the aluminum pulley you may have to change that as well to get good blower operation.
Luckily, it’s still easy to find motors to fit these dryers, but you’ll probably need to change at the start winding is probably damaged pretty badly if it smoked that badly. Dave, I saw your message about the DE 808 parts. I still have them if you want them I had saved the whole dryer top that might be hard to ship. Let me know what you want. John. L | ||
|
Post# 1228179 , Reply# 19 4/6/2025 at 15:55 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
Thanks guys, appreciate the help. I do have the spare motor I pulled from the KDG606... It's the exact same type, but given how messed up that dryer was, I'm not sure on its running condition. It feels slightly sticky - is there a trick to oiling this type of motor? I don't see any oiling ports, nor any means of taking the motor itself apart. I'll have a look at the centrifugal switches too. I wish I had pointed a camera at it - I don't actually know if the smoke had come from the motor itself, or from the obviously burned centrifugal switch... | ||
|
Post# 1228180 , Reply# 20 4/6/2025 at 16:03 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
You were right on the pulley too, John! Considerable wear on the one from this dryer. The one from the parts dryer (second picture) has little if any wear, but is also non-magnetic. I see that the steel ones are still available, but I'll probably run with this second one for now. | ||
|
Post# 1228181 , Reply# 21 4/6/2025 at 16:10 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
The blower cover was missing the lint seal, Maytag part #312623. I can't find a source for these, they must have been discontinued quite some time ago...
View Full Size
| ||
|
Post# 1228182 , Reply# 22 4/6/2025 at 16:21 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
The impeller itself happens to be the plastic type. (For a 1966, does this mean it was a replacement?) The molded in pulley portion has some wear, but nowhere near as bad as the motor pulley. I'll have to check the used spare from the KDG606. Interestingly, one of the impeller bushings stayed on the shaft when I pulled the impeller. It wasn't stuck to the shaft, it turned freely and came right off. My Maytag books are light on details here, and unhelpfully say to "follow the instructions in the bushing kit carefully". I presume that this was supposed to have been a friction press-fit of the black rubber parts into the plastic hub of the impeller?
View Full Size
| ||
| Post# 1228189 , Reply# 23 4/6/2025 at 17:39 by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
|
| ||
|
Post# 1228197 , Reply# 24 4/6/2025 at 18:03 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
||
 Nice score!
View Full Size
| ||
|
Post# 1228206 , Reply# 25 4/6/2025 at 20:36 by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
||
|
Servicing a DE606HOH dryer
Hi Dave, you can oil those Emerson motors by drilling a hole in each end and putting in some light electric motor oil.
If the motor in the dryer smoked up the whole house, it’s the start winding not just the switch. If you look carefully into the motor, you’ll see that the inner start windings are probably quite toasty looking. Yes, it looks like the replacement motor also has an aluminum pulley. It must be pretty low Use to be in that good of shape. It’ll work fine for many years. No reason to worry about replacing it with a steel pulley unless you’re gonna be putting a lot of hours on this dryer. On the blower, the bushing is supposed to stay in the plastic housing, if the bushings aren’t too worn, I suppose you could try gluing the rubber mounted bushing back in place with some really good RTV type sealant or glue, generally when we had a bushing do this we just replaced the blower, but they’re not that readily available anymore so you might have to get creative if you don’t have a good spare. John L | ||
|
Post# 1228253 , Reply# 26 4/7/2025 at 15:42 by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
||
|
| ||
| Post# 1228256 , Reply# 27 4/7/2025 at 16:30 by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
|
Reply #26
No worries, I’ll just will have to ask around in the future. Might just be easier to convert to 120v if I end up moving to another location in the future with no 240v outlet.
Btw, when you dismantle this DE606 for a tune-up, I highly suggest replacing/upgrading the thermostats while it’s stripped down for a cleaning and oiling, replacing the felt seal. I installed a 160F thermostat for the high limit thermostat on my Maytag DE806 (really just a 407 with the fluorescent light in place of the neon indicator light), makes a BIG difference since it would take awhile to dry with the 150F since it kept on kicking the heating element off, this is with a clean lint screen and ductwork. Also would replace the cycling thermostat with one that’s rated for 120F, along with a adjustable cool-down thermostat (actually is a fan thermostat) that can be set to 90F for a long cool-down. May seem ludicrous, but certainly will live up to the HOH advertising ‘a soft even circle of heat for gentle drying, no hot spots that can damage fabrics’. | ||
| Forum Index: |
| Other Forums: |
|
|
|
|
|
Comes to the Rescue!
;){kind=link}
;){kind=link}
;){kind=link}
;){kind=link}