Thread Number: 11761
%#@&$Unimatic mechanism------
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Post# 209561   5/11/2007 at 12:59 (6,194 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

I just e-mailed a couple of our web-site "gurus" and thought I'd pass a question by those of you experienced with the reoperation of a Unimatic mechanism. Oy vey.

I have been working on a '47 unit---the oldest I've worked on (but have no way of knowing if this is the original or a reoperated mechanism), and am experiencing some very slight differences that have me stumped.

I had to have a special tool made to remove the spanner nut (that locks down the spin bearing from the top) as I don't even know what the proper original tool even looks like!
When reoperating a '55 and a '53 the tool worked fine. (Although as previously mentioned, I have no way of knowing if any of those had been reoperated either!).

Soooo-now I'm here trying to get that damned spanner nut out and my "special tool" barely fits the opening. I am worried that as I try to get the nut out I may do damage to the threads in the top of the housing! Not kool if I intend to get that nut back in there!

The question is: is it likely Frigidaire made a tiny change in the diameter of the opening along the way? If so that will likely mean my favorite replacement (new) spin-bearing might not fit either. I can't find any mention of it in any of the tech-talks,etc.

In the mean time-------I have taken the torch to the area on the outside of the housing where the nut is and had it 'smokin hot three times already, tapped the outside of the housing with a hammer, and she won't budge. And of course, have used plenty of PBlaster. So for the moment am dead in the water anyway.

What are your thoughts? (Be nice)





Post# 209562 , Reply# 1   5/11/2007 at 13:10 (6,194 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Oh, Gansky and Lightedcontrols both think it quite likely there is a varience in diameter.

Post# 209577 , Reply# 2   5/11/2007 at 15:20 (6,194 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Steve

jetcone's profile picture
I think I have early doctrine on the 47's so I'll look when I get home and see if there are different part numbers for the tranny bell top.

It may be so as they had to completely re work the tub from the harmonizer type.

j


Post# 209579 , Reply# 3   5/11/2007 at 15:29 (6,194 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Steve what does the vent tube look like on that mechanism? How tall is it?

You have a very odd washer there. From the pictures you posted you have a 1947 Agitator Column with a 1948 Cabinet with a 1949 Chrome Escutcheon Plate and a 1949 Timer Dial and Timer and a 1950 Tub. So I am wondering about the mechanism????

Tonight I will look at the parts book and let you know if there is any difference.


Post# 209585 , Reply# 4   5/11/2007 at 16:15 (6,194 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        
Jet------

The original (type) tub was replaced , so they could have replaced the mechanism at the same time. Of course, the bellows were shot, and there was evidence of corrosion a lot older than what I expected. However, the "nut and seal assembly" is like new (praise Hashem!).

Robert, the mechanism I am working on has the "long" oil vent tube.

You would think if the size of the housing had changed they would have mentioned a change in the size of the spanner nut removal tool as well. I can find no mention of that anywhere.


Post# 209590 , Reply# 5   5/11/2007 at 17:36 (6,194 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        
Reading Frigidaire Parts Doctrine:

gansky1's profile picture
The housing (bell) and bearing retainer nut were the same part numbers from 1947-1958. The nut and seal assembly was different for the earlier models, changed in 1957 but I would think the diameter would be exactly the same if the threaded top of the bell never changed. If you have the long vent tube on your mechanism bell-housing, it's not a 47 but I'm not sure when that was changed, Robert will know but other than for trivia's sake, it won't help get that retaining nut out! Can you try the machine shop again?

Post# 209600 , Reply# 6   5/11/2007 at 18:11 (6,194 days old) by jamman_98 (Columbia, SC)        
Hey

jamman_98's profile picture
Steve. I lost your contact information and deleted your last cell phone call by accident. I wanted to thank you so much for showing your machines to me and Rob. We had a great time. The concert was excellent. BTW I'm moving to Columbia, SC to take care of my Father now. I'm moving in with a friend who lives around the corner and have to give up my 40" stove, but I'll get my vitage washer again someday. I hope things are going well for ya. Thanks so much for your hospitality.

Joe
jamman_98


Post# 209601 , Reply# 7   5/11/2007 at 18:12 (6,194 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Yes I'm home now and just checked as well, I have a parts book from 1948 and one from 1958 both show the same part numbers for the housing bell, bearing and bearing retainer ring.

Steve what you probably can do to make this easy is simply drill a couple of holes down into the bearing retaining ring and use a chisel and hammer to spilt and break the ring, I did this before I had the tool. Then replace the bearing and at the hardware store buy an Internal Retaining Ring that is just slightly larger than the housing opening. Slip that ring down over the top of the bearing (you will need Internal Retaining Ring Pliers). The threads from the housing will hold the retaining ring in place and you should be good to go.

You guys might have an extra bearing ring in your parts stash, it was a common part back then.

The long style vent tube like on your mechanism Steve was first used on the 1949 models.


Post# 209611 , Reply# 8   5/11/2007 at 19:39 (6,193 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        
Thanks Robert-------

Sounds like a great short-cut. I'll go shopping for the Internal Retaining Ring and Pliers before I drill the nut.




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