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Thread Number: 12242
Should I fix a 1-18 (again), are parts available? |
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Post# 215478 , Reply# 1 6/11/2007 at 17:30 (6,163 days old) by goatfarmer  (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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| Post# 215485 , Reply# 2 6/11/2007 at 18:39 (6,163 days old) by alr2903 (TN) | ||
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YES, if you are lucky enough to have one id sure try to get it fixed. | ||
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Post# 215533 , Reply# 5 6/11/2007 at 21:15 (6,163 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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Post# 215535 , Reply# 6 6/11/2007 at 21:20 (6,162 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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Post# 215623 , Reply# 8 6/12/2007 at 08:54 (6,162 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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Mineral spirits will work just fine. As for replacing the rollers, well they are no longer avaiable, so you are probably going to have to do quite a bit of searching and calling around. While I have every part number for early Frigidaire washers, I don't think I have part numbers for newer Frigidaire washers, newer meaning later than 1965. I'll look again, but I doubt it, maybe someone else here has some later part books. | ||
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Post# 215703 , Reply# 11 6/12/2007 at 20:55 (6,162 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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| Post# 215739 , Reply# 12 6/12/2007 at 23:09 (6,161 days old) by goprog () | ||
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AH!!! Right. I had forgotten how the clamp worked. (That's sort of annoying. Wonder what else I no longer remember...) Thanks. | ||
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Post# 215799 , Reply# 14 6/13/2007 at 10:55 (6,161 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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www.repairclinic.com/0081.aspQUES... Well that looks like it, but I can't tell for sure. Tonight I will scan a picture of what it looks like from the repair manual for you. | ||
| Post# 215811 , Reply# 15 6/13/2007 at 12:39 (6,161 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas) | ||
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Remember WD-40 is a cleaner/penetrating type of product. It is not a lubricant. | ||
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Post# 215840 , Reply# 16 6/13/2007 at 15:25 (6,161 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Yes thats the right part for the tub seal
Your old seal has collapsed as they do,the rubber gets hard and the internal spring no longer can push up so as the Jetcone comes down WHAM it causes the seal to jump off the bronze ring under the tub for a second and water gets in down the shaft. That leak will do a real number on a 1-18!! ALWAYS ALWAYS REPLACE THE OIL BELLOWS! That advice you got is totally WRONG! The factory tried this for ONE year to cut corners in production>>>>>>>>> and it was a resounding disaster for the mechanism. Whoever gave you that advice has the one wrong manual Frigdaire produced in their possession! You will have to dig around for an oil seal from an old dealer or a used machine. The tub seals are still available from FRIGIDAIRE direct or your Repair Clinic for the same price. | ||
| Post# 215859 , Reply# 17 6/13/2007 at 17:02 (6,161 days old) by goprog () | ||
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Jetcone Thanks. I'll order the tub seal today. Have found the oil bellows a couple places and will order that too. | ||
| Post# 215893 , Reply# 18 6/13/2007 at 20:18 (6,161 days old) by angus (Fairfield, CT.) | ||
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Jon- just out of curiosity, for which year did Frigidaire dispense with the oil bellows? | ||
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Post# 215965 , Reply# 19 6/14/2007 at 07:31 (6,160 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Anthony
Its been years since I read all this but I think it was the 1974-5 model year. I know it was after the S-T line disaster but before the 1977 change to venting the bellows. Now that I think about it, it seems to me it was the 1974 line I think. I'll try and dig out the TechTalk telling techs to install an oil bellows in these machines whenever they opened one up. I opened up one or two of these machines and boy a pinhole leak in the water bellows meant you were not getting the tub out ever! I had a machine hanging from a winch on the ceiling of my basement once, two guys yanking and hitting with a 5 pound hammer and we couldn't get that tub off the spin shaft. I had to junk the whole machine. | ||
| Post# 215967 , Reply# 20 6/14/2007 at 07:44 (6,160 days old) by goprog () | ||
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Jetecone What was venting the bellows about? | ||
| Post# 216014 , Reply# 21 6/14/2007 at 12:07 (6,160 days old) by goprog () | ||
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Tub seal, oil bellows, and spin roller ordered. | ||
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Post# 216023 , Reply# 22 6/14/2007 at 13:42 (6,160 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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They changed the air venting several times over the
1970's. All machines vented the bellows air down past the spin shaft but the hole arrangement was changed so you have to be sure when pulling and replacing the transmission that you have the correct support bracket and matching gasket so that the air holes line up down through the tub. You won't need to worry about that you are not replacing the transmission. But if you agitate the machine and listen under the cabinet you can hear the bellows venting. | ||
| Post# 216028 , Reply# 24 6/14/2007 at 15:04 (6,160 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
S-T line disaster | ||
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Post# 216063 , Reply# 25 6/14/2007 at 19:36 (6,160 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Goprog
all 1=18's were vented, just vented differently. Nate: The S-T disaster was a big wash out for Frigidaire. S-T were the first two model years off the 1-18 assembly line. On those machines they swapped out the aluminum drive roller on the motor shaft for a cast iron one. This caused the spin idler roller to develop lumping around its surface because the iron was much harder than the aluminum against the polyurethane roller material. This caused machines to thump hump and bump and roll away the contact surface to the point they would not spin. To replace this driver you have to almost put a new motor in because it was pressed onto the drive motor shaft and if it got corroded. Well bye bye motor. Most of these failed within the warranty period. Next the Sub tops had a flaw that caused the lint filter "bed of nails" to wear down and caused the lint filter to come flying out just at the end of the wash spin cycle and when the machine hit Rinse well with 330 Strokes/minute that chewed up your Jetcone real good. Next on the S-T line they used Stainless Steel clips to hold the sub top down on the outer tub. Normally this would be a good thing but not in this application. Steel makes a better spring than SSteel. Once a service man opened the subtop, the clips would not go back on the subtop. So if the guy had no extras then its a trip back to the shop and "Jallah-Sue Customer" would be furious her machine was not working. The problem was so bad some machines would go back togther and then on the spin the 1-18 throws alot of water up to this joint before the drain pump can pull down on the water level so it was always at that point the subtop would flip off somewhere and skiens of water would come rushing over the top down inside the machine and you know what that would do to those rollers you aren't supposed to lubricate!! Between the lint filters flying out and the subtops flying off they had to completely redesign the subtop assembly for the 1974 line. And make a retro fit kit for all the S-T machines. Those early 1-18's had a horrible track record and don't get me started on the dryers! I had more than one subtop fly off with skiens of water around my knees! Jet | ||
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Post# 216094 , Reply# 27 6/14/2007 at 20:44 (6,160 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Yes Goprog
If it is an S or T model it will say that in the model number , something like WC-T or WS. If there is no S or T you are beyond that. But I don't think many S or T's would have survived this far without a retro fit. Sorry for the confusion,yes you are right the driver I am talking about is mounted on the drive shaft which is connected to the motor shaft by a belt and two pulleys. And the bottom end drives the pump. The smaller of the drive rollers is the spin drive, it should not look red or rusty or darker than the upper aluminum wash drive roller. But don't mistake darker for old polyurethane that has worn off onto the driver and darkend it that happens normally over time on the aluminum drivers. If your machine was used by the prior owners then you should be able to feel the lumps across the surface of the spin idler roller, in many cases you can see the lumpiness of the roller. If not then you have an aluminum driver there and good for you. | ||
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Post# 217291 , Reply# 30 6/21/2007 at 07:35 (6,153 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Goprg
You don't have an S or T model which is good! So don't worry about the driver on the shaft, from the amount of use you describe that darkening is the urethane wearing off so its good you have a new roller coming. I would try to carefully clean the metal drive roller before installing the new urethane roller. IMPORTANT when installing the new urethane roller, the long screw that holds it to the transmission casing must not be bolted down tightly as the roller needs to be able to flop back and forth in its little metal cradle that it sits in. SO to prevent the bolt from falling back out after a few cycles you need to apply LOCK TITE to the screw threads before you install the roller back into the mechanism and tighten just enough that you don't see the little metal cradle bend or flex into the roller then STOP and let the LOCK TITE harden overnite before putting the machine back in use. The bearing you are looking at does not need lubricating under the seal. TO install the seal correctly, apply liqiud soap around its perimeter before pushing down into the cup flange where the old one came out. My comment about the motor shaft was wrong for this model that comment applied to the 1964-69 mechanism where the motor actually drove the mechanism directly so forget it. jet | ||
| Post# 217319 , Reply# 31 6/21/2007 at 10:21 (6,153 days old) by goprog () | ||
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jet Thanks. Unless instructions come with the roller, I would not have known about the LOCK TITE. Everything else you say is encouraging. Dale | ||
| Post# 217339 , Reply# 32 6/21/2007 at 13:47 (6,153 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ) | ||
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Wowies | ||
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Post# 217906 , Reply# 34 6/24/2007 at 01:43 (6,150 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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POR-15
I am really impressed by your work! The stuff is called POR-15. I am not personally familiar with it, but all the ladies Stateside swear by it. If you have trouble getting it locally, try their website: www.por15.com... I'd love to see some pics before you put her back together! I think scans of hard to get manuals are an excellent idea and would be more than willing to pay something for downloading one -resp., I would be more than happy to help scan and *pdf. | ||
| Post# 220158 , Reply# 36 7/2/2007 at 23:08 (6,141 days old) by goprog () | ||
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Tub seal before removal - can't really see much. The vents for the bellows described in a previous post are not visible, but are around the edge between the seal and the tub on the right side. 
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Post# 220177 , Reply# 40 7/3/2007 at 00:12 (6,141 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon) |
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great pics | ||
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Post# 220178 , Reply# 41 7/3/2007 at 00:13 (6,141 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon) |
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Post# 220237 , Reply# 43 7/3/2007 at 08:27 (6,141 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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The right hand plug is the | ||
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Post# 220300 , Reply# 45 7/3/2007 at 13:07 (6,141 days old) by 48bencix (Sacramento CA) |
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Did you say? I think you said you were getting some parts from Repair Clinic. Where are you getting the rollers? I have a 1-18 that most likely needs the tub seal that you did. Thanks for the great pictures and reporting on your progress. Dave's has manuals for sale. Martin | ||
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Post# 220315 , Reply# 47 7/3/2007 at 14:38 (6,141 days old) by 48bencix (Sacramento CA) |
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Thanks! Thanks for the information. By the way, where did you find the oil bellows? I see Dave has the water bellows. He also has the lint filter, but so does Repair Clinic. I need to go by my Appliance Parts locally and see what they may have. Martin | ||
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Post# 220351 , Reply# 49 7/3/2007 at 16:50 (6,141 days old) by 48bencix (Sacramento CA) |
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Thanks, Thanks again for the information. Now I need to START that project! Martin | ||
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