Very Sad Day for the 56 Mobile Maid


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Thread Number: 17570
Very Sad Day for the 56 Mobile Maid

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Post# 287566 6/27/2008 at 15:13 (5,781 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes I just got an e-mail from Blanchard Electric, and they cannot get the motor apart without damaging it. Feh !!! Anyone have ideas, spare parts or a part machine around ?

Post# 287567 , Reply# 1 6/27/2008 at 15:14 (5,781 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Under Carraige Shot* It's just a motor

Post# 287576 , Reply# 2 6/27/2008 at 16:16 (5,781 days old) by bellalaundry (St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada)
Checkrate/Likes *Ah man...* You'll just have to hold onto this, it's too beautiful to give up. I'm sorry I don't have any ideas for you. I'm in the same situation with my Twin Tub motor. No one seems to be able to help. I bring it to motor shops and they tell me they can't take it apart, I bring it to appliance parts shops, and they say they have nothing like it. Good luck to you! Guy

Post# 287587 , Reply# 3 6/27/2008 at 18:28 (5,781 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Guy* Thanks for the hope, I think I'm going to get the motor back and start some home remedys. Too many cocktails on the bad new.PB Blaster to start.

Post# 287729 , Reply# 4 6/28/2008 at 21:09 (5,780 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)
Checkrate/Likes *You've got my interest. I like a challenge* The photo shows a GE motor, assembled with 4 bolts. It is almost exactly the same structure as the maytag 2 speed reversable 1/3 horse from my '72 maytag. Might I ask what is faulty that you need to disassemble the motor? Bearings or start sw or stator windings? Is the problem that the motor won't dismount from the machine? Or the armature is stuck in the pump? The photo shows a motor with a cast end housing, a stamped sheet steel case, and 4 bolts holding it together. So under usual circumstances one ought to be able to disassemble such rather quickly, dispite needing to leave the upper end attached to the pump. eh?

Post# 287731 , Reply# 5 6/28/2008 at 21:31 (5,780 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)
Checkrate/Likes *Lets put this another way* Assuming it is at Blanchard Elec. Do you want to disassemble it yourself? Perhaps they can fix the particular piece that's broken if you disassemble it for them. Are you feeling that adventurous? ------------------ I came home from work last fall and found our maytag A606 full of diapers, dirty wash water. The motor wouldn't spin up to run the washer. So I removed the motor, took it to the work bench. I loosened the 4 bolts that held it together Removed the end housing (some tapping was needed here) Then removed the armature The removed the shaft side end housing and carefully tilted it over from the case stator. There I could see the place where the mag wire had arched /sparked. I spliced the mag wire and reinsulted it, then put the housing armatures back together. Result - I didn't have to bucket out the dirty diaper water, I got the maytag going again. ------------ There's only 5 parts to the motor armature stator case assy shaft end housing butt end housing start switch. so If you can get the motor back, and want to work on it.... Then take lots of pics Loosen the 4 bolts If needed tap end housing loose from case with screwdriver. gentle, be gentle the armature may drop out at this point, but it may be held at the other end by the start switch... post pics. Certainly the armature drops out with the shaft end housing and the start switch - from the case. 2 or 4 mag/leadwires stretch from the stator case assy to the start switch. photos photos labels...cut/desolder these if needed to get it completely apart. You'll have an end housing, a case, and a shaft end housing with a start sw and armature in it. Fix problem. case windings, bearings, start sw

Post# 287751 , Reply# 6 6/29/2008 at 03:10 (5,779 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Pump Seals* Here are 2 more shots

Post# 287752 , Reply# 7 6/29/2008 at 03:11 (5,779 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Someone mentioned* That you need a special puller to remove yje pump assy. from the shaft

Post# 287781 , Reply# 8 6/29/2008 at 07:44 (5,779 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)
Checkrate/Likes *Nice pictures, they tell the story* 1) For whatever reason you need to remove the armature from the case end. yes? That's important, since if the problem were the start switch and it can be removed from the side.... Or the stator winding...... Then you leave the armature installed in the end plate, stuck onto the pump shaft. Lets assume you can't fix the motor problem with the armature installed... The pump shaft looks to be made from a soft material like brass or copper. So worst case you need a piece of brass plate and tubing to create a new T shaft. Wouldn't it be nice if that tubing were normal copper pipe....? I imagine a puller like this -a plate with 4 legs straddling the upper housing. -In the midddle of the plate is a hole -Thru that goes a threaded rod. -cross plate and bolts attache end of rod to pump -nut and washer attach rod to plate. -Tighten nut to remove pump "T" shaft from motor. Alternately, you drill and tap a large thread thru the T top, (perhaps reinforced with a helicoil)then screw a bolt in, jamming against the armature shaft, and so pull the T shaft loose from the armature shaft. No force applied to the armature body, motor end plate and T shaft plate ends this way. You'll have to seal the hole later via soldering a plug on. Note, brass/copper expands faster than steel, so heating "T" to 300 or350F may greatly ease it's removal. I'd heat the T shaft up with a micro torch, not a lot tho', and try to start wiggling it a bit while a pulling load of 100-200 lbs is on it. That may be all that's needed, or...it may be corroded on, and need to be replaced. It looks to be a LOT easier to fabricate a new T shaft than a pump housing.

Post# 287836 , Reply# 9 6/29/2008 at 14:19 (5,779 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Thanks Bill* Blanchard said they tried "soaking" the motor in oil. They will be shipping it back to me on Monday. Once I get the motor back, then we'll start "brainstorming". I just wish there was another motor and pump out there. The motor runs fine. It's the seal that needs to be replaced under the drain impeller.

Post# 287847 , Reply# 10 6/29/2008 at 18:29 (5,779 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)
Checkrate/Likes *Hold on to it.* Don't get your hopes up too high, but I may have found, MAY HAVE found, a source for GE Pull-out parts. Keep yer fingers crossed. There's an apartment building in New Haven that was built in 1961 where all the large apartments were furnished with GE pull-outs. The superindendant has given me the name of the guy in charge of maintenance, but, as usual, I have had trouble contacting him and won't be a bit surprised when he tells me that they've all be taken to the dump.

Post# 287849 , Reply# 11 6/29/2008 at 18:41 (5,779 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Thanks Ken.* That would be unbelievable. Especially if there were any vintage pull outs.

Post# 287861 , Reply# 12 6/29/2008 at 21:07 (5,779 days old) by nasadowsk ()
Checkrate/Likes Is the pump impeller fastened to the T shaft? You know, the shaft itself looks simple, and I bet a machine shop could make a new one, if a good drawing existed, or even using the existing one as a pattern. A good machinist is a great thing. A for heating - I wonder if a 'soaking' in an oven would do the trick? In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if that's how GE made it in the first place. Let everything heat soak at 300 for a while, it might just slide right off easily. To reattach, just heat the brass, and it'll slide on even easier. I'd be careful with a torch that you don't melt things, and apply the heat slowly...

Post# 287916 , Reply# 13 6/30/2008 at 11:41 (5,778 days old) by turquoisedude (.)
Checkrate/Likes *If worst comes to worst...* I have a '59 GE 'Princess' pull-out that is unusable because the cabinet is damaged and the cover is missing... Now, unless a bunch of them turn up in, Oh, I don't know, Connecticut, I was wondering if you might be interested in the motor from mine. I am keeping my eyes on this thread in case anything does turn up, but if not, I may be able to help you out. I have a '58 Mobile Maid and I think they are definitely a machine worth saving!!

Post# 287966 , Reply# 14 6/30/2008 at 17:43 (5,778 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *OMG* I can't believe you may have a motor. This is great news. My Mom had a Princess and they would be I think a perfect match. I will stay in touch when I get my motor back, and Thank-you so much. Eddie

Post# 288086 , Reply# 15 7/1/2008 at 11:31 (5,777 days old) by turquoisedude (.)
Checkrate/Likes Hopefully your motor can be repaired - even better if that lead on the apartment building with pull-outs being replaced comes up with something! Please do let me know how things go, though. Glad to be of help!

Post# 288829 , Reply# 16 7/5/2008 at 20:04 (5,773 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Any Chance ?????* Is that Princess motor up for grabs ? I'm getting the old motor back, so if yours is good, I could spend some time on mine and would trade it if I could replce the seal. What'cha think ?

Post# 289408 , Reply# 17 7/8/2008 at 15:21 (5,770 days old) by turquoisedude (.)
Checkrate/Likes Sorry I didn't see your post sooner, Eddie! I will test the motor on the Princess this coming weekend and if it's still good (which I am expecting it to be) I'll let you know. Please email me directly if you have any questions - I keep odd hours but my email always seems to find me!!

Post# 289488 , Reply# 18 7/8/2008 at 22:00 (5,770 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Hey Paul* I just e-mailed you. If the motor doesn't leak, I owe you BIG TIME. Thanks alot. Eddie

Post# 290661 , Reply# 19 7/14/2008 at 11:14 (5,764 days old) by turquoisedude (.)
Checkrate/Likes Eddie, I didn't get to test the motor itself on the weekend - I got a little scared by the four wires coming out of the motor and I didn't want to risk damaging it. I am travelling this week, but I managed to get a picture of the wiring diagram of the Princess and I will post it with a request for advice probably sometime tomorrow. Sorry about the delay, but I haven't forgotten!

Post# 293270 , Reply# 20 7/29/2008 at 07:14 (5,749 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Check this out Guys* I just recieved the motor that the shop couldn't get apart. Just look how they sent it back and notice the bent screws. I certainly would not ever recommened these guys again.Feh !!!!

Post# 293271 , Reply# 21 7/29/2008 at 07:15 (5,749 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Feh* I just can't believe they would do this. I certainly did not pay for this.

Post# 293272 , Reply# 22 7/29/2008 at 07:18 (5,749 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)
Checkrate/Likes *Hey Paul,* Once I get John to look at this mess, I might be very interested in taking that Princess Motor off your hands. What a mess. Thanks guys for all your help. Now for Plan B and C and D and E ....

Post# 293274 , Reply# 23 7/29/2008 at 07:32 (5,749 days old) by turquoisedude (.)
Checkrate/Likes *AAAAARGH!* I can't believe what they did to that poor motor... I had a short weekend this past one so I didn't actually hook up the Princess motor - I swear that I'll do it this week and let you know. Seeing these pix, though, I am now nervous about trying to extract it - but I am sure that I'll figure it out somehow! Hang in there!!

Post# 293356 , Reply# 24 7/29/2008 at 16:12 (5,749 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)
Checkrate/Likes *A south Bend Lathe, 2 collets and some heat* Around here, when we need to disassemble a press fit solenoid we chuck up one end in the driven collet, the other end in the stock holder collet, and then turn the screw to pull them apart. Perhaps something like that would work for your assembly, plus a little differential thermal expansion to pop the brass loose from the motor shaft. See if a machine shop has an old south bend lathe to do this.

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