Thread Number: 21109
Calling all KDS-14 experts! 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 333799   3/5/2009 at 06:16 (5,531 days old) by whitekingd ()        

I have a KDS-54P, the convertable model of the 14 series. It is not filling all the way up during its cycle. I have checked the screen in the inlet valve, and that is not the problem. The pressure switch seems to be working. I took off the hose and blew into it, and heard the diaphragm move and click. The electrical readings on it said it is working as well. I suspect the pressure at the faucet is to blame, but, is there anything else I should be aware of? I checked the faucet adapter, of course, and cleaned it out. Any help is appreciated! Also, can you still get the door switch down on the right hand corner? The safety switch. Mine is stuck in the on position (which is good!). My parts machine switch was the same way. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!




Post# 333810 , Reply# 1   3/5/2009 at 08:56 (5,531 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)        
Restrictor disk

 My KDS-57 had a restrictor disk downstream of the valve poppet, in the valve body.

Because of the sink aerator, the flow path is already restricted. 2 restrictors in series cut the flow too much.

I simply removed that disk in the inlet water valve. Of course I also made sure the pressure sensing water level control was set right. I've been running fine since this summer.

Post# 334081 , Reply# 2   3/6/2009 at 20:52 (5,529 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Restricted!

 Delmer,
This scenario came up a few months back and it seemed that the person never had a problem with the water level in their portable unit and the culprit turned out to be a new faucet which was recently installed. I think the manufacturers are using a design that restricts the water throughout the whole faucet and that made a difference in the fill level. The machine valve was checked as you did and nothing was found to be wrong. You may want to check that the o-ring on the drain valve plunger is still intact and not ripped or being held open by a piece of debris like a toothpick or straw or a bone.
And Bill, you employ my trick with the flow restrictor in the valve. I like to remove them especially on machines like the 21 series and up which have those short purges between cycle segments. That way I get some additional rinsing of the dishes between washes and on some models, get additional rinses as well! The only problem is that you wind up with a totally full tub of water who's flow is stopped by the float or pressure switch and it takes longer to heat the water during preheat and sani phases. And as I have measured in the units which have the element above the sump, you don't actually get the temperature rise out of the element in the time allotted because of the increased volume. I ran that test for Andrew In Orlando last year just to document the start and end temps in each segment. With the restrictor, we got a higher end temp but lost the luxury of a few seconds of extra rinsing.
WARNING!WARNING!WARNING!
If you remove the restrictor and get a very full fill in the tub, be careful if you open the door to add anything or adjust a banging dish. Because the water level is basically up to the door bottom, there is little means of allowing the escaping air to vent out when you start the washing action again. It will often push water out of the door, unless you close the door slowly and allow the air to escape on its own.
You will hear the air escaping and then you will be able to start the machine up. It will only need to happen once and you will learn your lesson!

What you can do it remove the restrictor and then throttle down the manual valve supply the machine so that it won't over fill or fill to the point of the float switch shutting it down or adjust it to just before that point!

I also take the restrictors out of the newer style tall-tub Kenwhirlaids so it accomplishes the same thing during the purges in the cycle. I feel better rinsing the soap off the dishes that way!

One last thing, if you are looking for that small microswitch that the door latch arm actuates, it is part number 66733 and should still be available thru your local Hobart office.
If that office does not stock it, ask them to check the other offices in the country for available stock. Then they can get it brought it for you from another branch or agency.
Make sure that the little brass actuator is not bent in such a way that it is keeping the switch closed as well.
Hope this helps.
Steve

Post# 334133 , Reply# 3   3/7/2009 at 07:12 (5,529 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)        
I adjusted the water level pressure sensor

 I adjusted the water level to just come above the screen over the pump. KDS57

If that's too high, then what is the right height?

Note: When turning the water level regulator nut, one should hold both the stem and nut when adjusting, or one can twist the stem off of the diaphragm because of the nut running torque.

Post# 334137 , Reply# 4   3/7/2009 at 08:14 (5,529 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
up to spec!

 Proper level would be approx 1/4-1/2" below the hub of the washarm. It should not go over the "collar" of the filter.
You should have plenty of water in the tank at that level.

Post# 334146 , Reply# 5   3/7/2009 at 11:09 (5,529 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)        

Thanks, that makes sense.

Next time I get the microwave off the dishwasher (1983 Panasonic from Penny's - heavy)I'll adjust it down a bit.

good luck.

Post# 335272 , Reply# 6   3/13/2009 at 05:27 (5,523 days old) by whitekingd ()        
Steve,

 It indeed, turned out to be the faucet. The sub assembly diverter valve (valve that controls the side sprayer) has gotten bound up. I got on the Price-Pfister web site and discovered the part is on back order. Ya think it my be a probem! I took it out and, wow, pressure at the dishwasher like I can't belive. The low pressure at the sink kind of sneeks up on you. You really don't notice it untill it gets bad. Thanks for all of your help. I found the switch locally.


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