Thread Number: 31431
HA 107 Maytag Washer and a 35 Year Old Tub Nut........grrrrrrrrr.
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 474270   11/9/2010 at 20:33 (4,916 days old) by Spokerider ()        

Hello all. First off, just have to say, what a great site!

I just bought a HA 107 series 01 Maytag washer. It was built Oct of 1975. It is leaking at the tub seal, and having read a few threads here on how to replace the bearing and seals, I`m delving into it. I suspect it has been a leaker for a while.

I have the front of the washer off, and the top tipped up. I`m trying to get the inner tub nut off, applying torque clockwise for the reverse thread that it`s supposed to be..........

I have fabricated my own tub nut wrench, and it fits tight and well. I`ve been hammering on the wrench with a ball peen hammer, and it won`t budge. Good grief it`s tight or frozen on. This washer has a spring-loaded washer and circlip on it, just at the agitatoe shaft, so I slipped some penetrating oil in there hoping it gets to the threads.

Just how difficult are these nuts to get off? What else can I do to free it?

It IS reverse thread, correct?

Thanks.





Post# 474273 , Reply# 1   11/9/2010 at 20:48 (4,916 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT TUB LOCK NUT RING

combo52's profile picture
Getting the nut off is the easy you just crack it off, a new one comes with the seal kit.

Post# 474292 , Reply# 2   11/10/2010 at 00:37 (4,916 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        
Welcome!

revvinkevin's profile picture

Welcome to the site Spokerider... you will enjoy it here!

And good luck with the washer repair!

Kevin


Post# 474317 , Reply# 3   11/10/2010 at 06:15 (4,916 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
I agree

mrb627's profile picture
Pull out your dremel and cut the nut off.



Post# 474335 , Reply# 4   11/10/2010 at 08:50 (4,916 days old) by PeterH770 (Marietta, GA)        

peterh770's profile picture
Isn't this the nut that is counter-threaded? Clockwise to unscrew, "Righty loosey"?

Post# 474347 , Reply# 5   11/10/2010 at 11:02 (4,916 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Reverse Thread

mrb627's profile picture
Correct. Clockwise to remove the nut.

Malcolm


Post# 474369 , Reply# 6   11/10/2010 at 11:55 (4,916 days old) by Spokerider ()        

Thanks guys, going to get to it and cut the nut off now.

Have another question please..... when removing the sleeve that goes over the trans shaft....prolly be another chisel job....I will polish the trans shaft with crocus cloth. When installing the new sleeve, why not use anit-seize compound, or a light layer of grease applied to the trans shaft to prevent future3 seizing of these componenets

? I don`t think that this part gets wet?, but then again, I`m not sure.

Haven`t seen on the vids or read on the threads where this has been done, why?


Post# 474413 , Reply# 7   11/10/2010 at 17:30 (4,915 days old) by Spokerider ()        

Well, I got the tub nut off, lifted the outer drum, and removed the stem mount. Now that was a job! Siezed on.....much hammering, and yes, the set screw was removed first.

Looks like the parts shop doesn`t have the oem agitator shaft seal, like the old maytag came with, so I`ll have to go with the seal that comes on the new stem mount in the kit. Hope it works! The parts guy says that`s all the repair professionals use, so we`ll see.

Nor did he have any rubber washers for the three bolts that hold the outer drum in place, or the three lead washers. I made some rubber washers myself, and will be using a combo sandwich of leather and rubber gasket material in place of the oem lead ones.


The mound of dirty clothes continues to grow.......


Post# 474424 , Reply# 8   11/10/2010 at 19:10 (4,915 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
The tub bolts SHOULD have gaskets on them already. If not, you're most likely trying to use NON-OEM bolts. The tub bearing kit also should come with all the parts needed. You don't usually use the lead washers over as the kit comes with new, blue colored washers.

If you can order the center agitator seal, it's worth the wait to use it. Also, the center sleeve bearing that sits over the trans shaft is self lubricating. I cannot say it enough but, if you're going to do a job that should buy you YEARS of faithful service, use the right parts vs. not and looking forward to doing the job again. Have you seen my thread on doing this job? It includes part numbers and shows what the proper kits come with as far as parts!

RCD


CLICK HERE TO GO TO redcarpetdrew's LINK


Post# 474841 , Reply# 9   11/13/2010 at 12:45 (4,913 days old) by Spokerider ()        

recarpetdrew,
Yes, I have read your link.........many times over. lol, along with many of your other replies. They have all been very helpful in getting this job done. The one thing you don`t have advice for is consoling an agitated wife about the growing laundry pile!??

Anyway, it`s all back together, and doesn`t leak. I re-used the original 3 drum bolts with rubber washers...they were a bit squished, but with some marine-grade gasket sealant, they are working just fine.


I DID use some white lithium grease on the trans spindle-sleeve interface as well ass on the agitator shaft to plastic agitator. If and when I do this job again, I don`t want to have to struggle with seized parts.

No, I didn`t get the extra center agitator seal, as nobody had that seal in stock, and I had to get the washer repaired sooner rather than later......I`ll hope for the best. May have to do it in the future if it starts to leak.



Post# 474860 , Reply# 10   11/13/2010 at 14:36 (4,913 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        
Consoling an agitated wife...

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
No such thing! I usually follow the golden rule: "If momma's not happy, then NO ONE'S happy..."'

Don't sweat the center seal. It should work ok without it. The older seal is just extra insurance. Congrats on fixing her!

RCD



Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy