Thread Number: 32159
Maytag DE806 Moisture / Temperature Sensing 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 485065   12/29/2010 at 19:31 (4,866 days old) by gerry ()        

Hi All. I recently took my DE806 (September 1969) apart, all the way down to removing the drum from its perch and oiled everything down with Zoom-Spout as many of you recommend. I finally got the unit back together today and everything works well except the dryer shuts off before the clothes are dry. We had to start the dryer 4 times before the clothes were fully dry. We never had an issue with this before, and we've owned the dryer for it's whole life, and so I'm hoping someone can enlighten me as to what I might have done inside the dryer to cause this issue. I'm not sure which part was the temperature/moisture component that dictates the length of the cycle - possibly I moved it or misaligned something? The one place I got stuck during reassembly was with the internal felt ring that goes between the drum and the mount. That's encompassed and held on by a thin metal ring with an electrical terminal on it. I was unclear how much of the felt goes underneath the metal ring, how much it should extend to touch the drum assembly, etc. I just made sure the felt extended to touch the drum assembly - I figured it was to catch coins or other foreign objects that would otherwise possibly fall into the maching and foul things up. Why it has an electrical terminal I couldn't tell you - possibly to dispel static? Any info you could pass on would be greatly appreciated.




Post# 485094 , Reply# 1   12/29/2010 at 21:52 (4,866 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
The one place I got stuck during reassembly was with the internal felt ring that goes between the drum and the mount.

That's the slip ring.

Did you remove and install that tiny spring and carbon brush that contacts the slip ring from the holder? If not, it shot off into space during the disassembly process.

Post# 485118 , Reply# 2   12/30/2010 at 00:02 (4,866 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Yup, carbon brush.

 volvoguy87's profile picture
What he said.
Dave

Post# 485150 , Reply# 3   12/30/2010 at 03:44 (4,865 days old) by gerry ()        

Oh drats. I don't even remember seeing those, but in revisiting the threads from my last issue I see your warnings about them. I guess it's time to search the garbage and vacuum cleaner bag. I did find a small rectangular piece of what appears to be black carbon, a little larger than a pencil eraser but flat, like the lead in a carpenter's pencil. It looked solid - not like a brush. I didn't connect it mentally with the dryer at all and threw it out. Good thing I was too busy to put the garbage out to the curb. I don't remember a spring at all. I'm worried because the parts places I see on the web all say "requires special attention" for the brush, and I'm not sure I know where to install it.

Anyone have any pictures of what these two components look like? I remember the slip ring around the felt had a worn line all around the circumference and I couldn't figure out what made it. And there is a small white plastic block that hangs over the slip ring from the drum side. I'm guessing the "brush" hangs out of that white block against the slip ring. Argh...I'm kicking myself.

Anyone know if the dryer can be run without these components in the short term? We did one or two loads of laundry today and it did at least dry the clothes.

Post# 485152 , Reply# 4   12/30/2010 at 04:12 (4,865 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
I did find a small rectangular piece of what appears to be black carbon, a little larger than a pencil eraser but flat, like the lead in a carpenter's pencil.

That definitely sounds like the brush. The spring will probably be nearly impossible to find since it's extremely thin (in some circumstances, thinner than hair) and camouflages itself very well in plain sight. However, with a lot of persistence and a dash of luck, you may just stumble upon it.

I'm not sure I know where to install it.

Don't fret about that right now. Lets attack one disaster at a time.


Post# 485153 , Reply# 5   12/30/2010 at 04:21 (4,865 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        
Solid Brush?

 beekeyknee's profile picture
In electric equipment a brush is solid. We're not talking about a hair brush, here. It's an electric motor or armature brush. Do an internet search.

Post# 485297 , Reply# 6   12/30/2010 at 16:59 (4,865 days old) by gerry ()        

Well after getting your messages in the middle of the night and losing an hour of sleep from worry, painstakingly picking through the vacuum canister for 45 minutes and finding the spring in a puff of dog hair, and malodorously going through the garbage for 45 minutes and finding the carbon brush embedded in old banana goo, I'm ready to move on. (For the sake of future schleps like me who don't know what to look for, please see attached pic.) My wife says I'm the best garbage picker she ever married.

So I know I'll need to remove the body of the washer again to get at the slip ring area. I hope I don't need to take everything off off the main shaft again - that spring clip is a pain in the neck. Can anyone offer points of advice regarding where the spring and carbon brush go? Which way do they face? I assume they go into the whitish little block stuck to the back of the drum that hangs somewhat closely over the slip ring, but I don't know particulars. Are the carbon brush and spring just held in place by pressure, or do they somehow get fastened in? Again, I appreciate your help greatly.

Post# 485344 , Reply# 7   12/30/2010 at 21:35 (4,865 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
My wife says I'm the best garbage picker she ever marrie

 qsd-dan's profile picture
WHOA, great job!! Certainly can't argue with your wife ;>)

No need to disassemble the unit. Just remove the carbon brush holder, insert the spring followed by the carbon brush, and reinstall in reverse. Here's a breakdown pic. The group of numbers starting with 2-11642 points to the carbon brush holder you want to remove and install. Feel free to ask any other questions and keep us updated!

Post# 485361 , Reply# 8   12/30/2010 at 22:12 (4,865 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Forgot to mention. Once everything is back in place, select the "Damp Dry" cycle with an empty drum. If everything is working properly, it should take the machine 7-17 seconds to chime and shutdown.

Post# 485477 , Reply# 9   12/31/2010 at 12:48 (4,864 days old) by gerry ()        

I got everything back together this morning. I tried the "damp dry test" and the dryer still hadn't shut off after a minute, so I stopped it. We've always had trouble with the bell sounding at the wrong time - sometimes awhile after the motor stops and sometimes well before, and I had vague recollections that the settings other than regular haven't worked right all along. Hard to tell because we always use the regular setting.

Anyway, we tried a medium to large load and it seemed to work fine - ran for about an hour, which is about normal according to my wife, and then shut off by itself. Clothes were dry and about the same temp as usual. Obviously the addition of the carbon brush fixed the previous issue - at least getting the dryer back to it's previous working state. Thanks Dan, Brian, and Dave for your help once again. You saved me a ton of money at a time when money is very tight.

I you know some easily fixable reason for the incorrect bell timing or the fact that the damp dry test doesn't work, please let me know, otherwise I'm going to do my best to leave this issue behind in 2010. Happy New Year!

Post# 485479 , Reply# 10   12/31/2010 at 13:03 (4,864 days old) by gerry ()        

A couple of pointers for others (part 1):
1) If the outer body of the dryer gets slightly torqued during the removal process, (which is possible due to the floppiness of the sides, then when you get everything back together for testing with the back open, the opening in the front of the drum can rub on each revolution, which makes a bad sound and a burning smell. The cause of the issue was very troublesome to me until I figured out the cause of the sound and twisted the unit a bit, then the issue went away. Once you get the metal back plate screwed into place it holds things square so that the issue doesn't occur - at least on mine.

Post# 485481 , Reply# 11   12/31/2010 at 13:04 (4,864 days old) by gerry ()        

A couple of pointers for others (part 2):

2) Keep track of where the bushings and separators go on the shaft as you disassemble. If they aren't placed back correctly it can mess things up. I wasn't careful and ended up having to try multiple times to replace the fan enclosure (with the zillions of screws that hold it), only to find that the fan inside the case was too far to one side, causing it to rub against it's housing.

3) Everyone here talks about using zoom-spout oil. I wanted to use that, since I've heard that other oils can cause gumming up or degradation to bearings over time. I looked everywhere, and finally found that it is sold at Ace Hardware for $2 or $3. Ace also had new retaining rings for either end of the bearing that fit perfectly. ($0.49 each).

4) Take digital pics of the wiring and placement of parts prior to disassembly. That saved me a ton of trouble.

Post# 485483 , Reply# 12   12/31/2010 at 13:06 (4,864 days old) by gerry ()        

A couple of pointers for others (part 3):

5) The split ring, or "retaining ring" that comes off the shaft can be a pain if you don't know what you're doing (like I didn't). The first piece of good advice is to get a pair of retaining ring pliers. The tips of the pliers' pins go into the holes in the ring, and when you squeeze the pliers the ring opens up. Another pair of pliers (pictured) closes when you squeeze, but they aren't as helpful since the ring wants to spring closed anyway. Second piece of advice: open the ring only wide enough to slip the ring out of its slot so you can slide it HORIZONTALLY off of the shaft. I made the mistake of trying to pull it off vertically, which forces the open ends of the ring to spread as wide as the shaft, and that bent the ring such that it wouldn't spring closed all the way anymore. I was able to bend it back into shape with a pair of pliers while it was off the shaft and got it to work, but I saw on this forum where others have snapped the ring taking it off the wrong way.

Post# 485527 , Reply# 13   12/31/2010 at 17:07 (4,864 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture
Great job!  I love it when a plan comes together!


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