Thread Number: 32202
Vintage Air Conditioners. The Holy Grail of vintage appliances? |
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Post# 485778 , Reply# 1   1/2/2011 at 00:54 (4,869 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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I think I remember reading about a Chrysler AirTemp that somebody here was still using. Not sure how vintage you mean, but it does seem that A/C units don't enjoy the same longevity as refrigerators, probably because they're out in the elements all their lives. When I worked for a HVAC contractor I was amazed at how often even the larger rooftop A/C units would fail, even when properly maintained. Clearly, they're cooling a lot more volume than the 20 or so cubic feet of a refrigerator/freezer, but you'd think they would be built to last longer than they do. |
Post# 485782 , Reply# 2   1/2/2011 at 01:24 (4,869 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)   |   | |
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Post# 485783 , Reply# 3   1/2/2011 at 01:33 (4,869 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Older units were run to death and or improperly maintained, so when they failed off to the rubbish heap they went.
OTHO those whom do own vintage units, may know what they've got and are hanging on. Searching locally such as estate sales and Craigslist type offerings may yield better results when looking for vintage AC units. The things aren't exactly light, and the shipping would likely deter both sellers and potential buyers. We have an older Friedrich "WallMaster",and dread the day it goes. Pumps out cold air and while not terribly efficient, gets the job done better than the electronic units sold today. Only fly in the ointment is taking the unit out of the wall for cleaning at least every other year, and to oil the motor. Many persons did not realise then or didn't appreciate the directions to clean and maintain older ACs, and this includes oiling the motor, along with removing built up dust,dirt and gunk. So many people chuck an AC because it "won't cool" when the thing really needs a good steam cleaning and new filter. |
Post# 485795 , Reply# 4   1/2/2011 at 06:36 (4,869 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)   |   | |
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I remember working in an office in Green Bay, Wisconsin that had a water cooled A/C system. That thing was so loud and when it would kick on you would hear the water running through it.
Was it recirculating that water or was it just running in and then out? That office was never cool but I think I remember them saying it was too small for the size room. The unit itself was enourmous. It took the better part of a hallway as I recall and I think there was some component on the roof too. I think it was from sometime in the 50's and it ran until the late 80's when they replaced it. |
Post# 485805 , Reply# 7   1/2/2011 at 08:20 (4,869 days old) by 58limited (Port Arthur, Texas)   |   | |
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One of the old Oil Money mansions down here has a cool late '30s/early 40's window unit on the enclosed "patio" but I don't think it has been turned on in over 30 years.
There was a green '50s Hotpoint window unit on ebay a couple of months ago that didn't sell. The seller never relisted it.It was posted here on the Super forum at the time. Here's the auction link: CLICK HERE TO GO TO 58limited's LINK on eBay |
Post# 485827 , Reply# 10   1/2/2011 at 13:02 (4,869 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 485830 , Reply# 11   1/2/2011 at 13:14 (4,869 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )   |   | |
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Might be energy hogs, but they are much colder and usually quieter than what is out there now. |
Post# 485833 , Reply# 12   1/2/2011 at 13:18 (4,869 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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There's a 70's wood grain big GE window unit in the enclosed patio. It will run for a minute or so, then it trips the breaker. I'd pull it down and replace it (even if temporarily) with a modern unit, but it's stuck on top of an eight foot high wall; difficult to get to and I still haven't figured out the best way to get at it. Plus generally I don't wish to try to A/C that space anyway, since it's not air-tight (by design) and would be quite a waste of energy. I posted a photo here of it a few years ago; will have to see if I still have a copy on the computer... Besides the overload problem, it needs new dials/knobs. I have to kind of guess what the setting is. Sometimes I run it just for the fan. It's one of the few units I've seen that can actually exhaust room air to the outside. Useful on real hot days when all I want to do is get rid of the heat at the ceiling level. |
Post# 485835 , Reply# 13   1/2/2011 at 13:34 (4,869 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 485836 , Reply# 14   1/2/2011 at 13:35 (4,869 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 485837 , Reply# 15   1/2/2011 at 13:37 (4,869 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 485839 , Reply# 16   1/2/2011 at 13:42 (4,869 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Full view. It sticks out even more (about 1.5 feet) on the outside. Somebody fashioned a rain cover for the outer section, which looks like it's sturdy steel - if not stainless steel painted over. The problem I have is in trying to figure out how to remove the unit for repair. Due to the height it will take two strong bodies on ladders to remove it from the inside. |
Post# 485841 , Reply# 17   1/2/2011 at 13:48 (4,869 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 485843 , Reply# 18   1/2/2011 at 13:49 (4,869 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 485847 , Reply# 19   1/2/2011 at 14:13 (4,869 days old) by 112561 (River Park, in Port St. Lucie, Florida)   |   | |
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Post# 485924 , Reply# 24   1/2/2011 at 20:11 (4,868 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Well, I actually don't know how old that GE is. It is at least as old as the 1970's. I believe the patio was enclosed in the mid-60's. That's when a lot of other work was done to the house. But of course I don't know where the GE A/C came from. It might have been used before it was installed in its present location high on the wall. Got me where the filters are supposed to go. I have looked over the inside portion of the unit, as well as what I can see of the outside, and I don't see any removable filters anywhere. I was wondering if they simply were slid in front of the unit, behind the first set of fixed louvers and after the set of three adjustable louvers, but on closer inspection it's clear there isn't enough room up there for filters. Plus there are little cutouts on the first screen to allow one to rotate the three circular louvers to direct air in any desired direction (an idea modern A/C's could emulate). Probably if there were filters, they slid underneath the outside of the unit. It's difficult to get a good view of that part, since it sits only about a foot above yet another roof, but it's possible that the filters had frames that clipped into two large cutouts underneath the outside of the unit. In other words, I don't know, and I may never know for sure until I pull the unit down and fix it. A manual would be nice. This post was last edited 01/02/2011 at 20:30 |
Post# 485928 , Reply# 25   1/2/2011 at 20:32 (4,868 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 485931 , Reply# 26   1/2/2011 at 20:38 (4,868 days old) by westingman123 ()   |   | |
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I have a Whirlpool at the farm, I'm unsure of the BTU's right now, I suspect it is from the early 70's. It's a big old honkin' thing. |
Post# 485937 , Reply# 27   1/2/2011 at 21:32 (4,868 days old) by austinado16 ()   |   | |
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drmitch, that Vornado you saw sounds like the same version that was on ebay a number of years ago. Definately a cool looking unit. |
Post# 486472 , Reply# 32   1/5/2011 at 06:10 (4,866 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 486473 , Reply# 33   1/5/2011 at 06:11 (4,866 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 486474 , Reply# 34   1/5/2011 at 06:16 (4,866 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 486475 , Reply# 35   1/5/2011 at 06:18 (4,866 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 486476 , Reply# 36   1/5/2011 at 06:21 (4,866 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 486477 , Reply# 37   1/5/2011 at 06:24 (4,866 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 487618 , Reply# 40   1/9/2011 at 16:58 (4,861 days old) by sambootoo (Moody, AL)   |   | |
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Here are my 2. Both work as they should, are very quiet, and are used occasionally in my workshop. First up is a 1960's GE, rather bottom of the line but gets the job done |
Post# 487621 , Reply# 41   1/9/2011 at 17:02 (4,861 days old) by sambootoo (Moody, AL)   |   | |
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Then the 1957 Coldspot "Slenderette" model. Not currently installed but I crank it up periodically the keep the juices flowing and keep looking for the opportunity to put it to use somewhere. |
Post# 488067 , Reply# 42   1/10/2011 at 20:32 (4,860 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 488100 , Reply# 43   1/10/2011 at 21:59 (4,860 days old) by austinado16 ()   |   | |
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The rotatable grills are very cool. Gee, who thought it was a good idea to get away from that design? |
Post# 488704 , Reply# 45   1/13/2011 at 14:13 (4,858 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)   |   | |
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This unit sat unused for over 40 years in an unused cabin with the exposed end in a covered porch. Very simple design. I would turn it on once every few years till we sold the property. Still works like new. |
Post# 488730 , Reply# 46   1/13/2011 at 16:15 (4,857 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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The Fox still runs it's 1946 Carrier AC system. It's a massive and VERY effective system. The intake IS the basement beneath the auditorium. The intake air passes through a water shower and then through the evaporator coils. It's a fascinating system and I was privileged to see it from inside and out while it was running. Surprisingly, it's efficiency is actually pretty good.
I love this old technology, it's just overflowing with innovation unlike anything else seen today, Dave |
Post# 490259 , Reply# 48   1/19/2011 at 22:26 (4,851 days old) by Toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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Speaking of large, powerful impressive units........
What is that long pink tubluar latex cellopahne-wrapped item under the 1957 Coldspot "Slenderette" model? Er uh uhm.. I meant to say actually, my parents had a 1974/1975 Sears Coldspot 23,000 BTU/h through-the wall air-condtioner. It was capable of cooling 6 rooms. It had an EER of 6.0. Today, Energy Efficiency Ratios of 10 to 12 BTUs (moved) per watt is more the norm. 23,000 BTUs @ 6 BTUs per watt means it drew 3,833 watts. At 220v it used 17.42 amps. 16 amps maximum(80%) are allowed on a 20a circuit. This beast required a 220v 30a circut and had a huge plug the size [and configuration] of an (American) electric dryer's. It should be noted BTW that the power draw of an air-conditiner varies somewhat based on the temperature of the condenser. (Read: the temp. of OUTDOOR air drawn over it to cool it and take away the heat pulled out of the (air-conditoned) home/room. EERs are sort of misleading. Older units had smaller coils and I do believe dehumdified better because the evaporator(inside coil) got much colder. So in terms of measuring the work done per watt, moving heat is only part of the story, I'd say. One must consider the dehumdiifcation as well This unit had a fresh-air intake and a stale-air exhaust. The bad thing about using a stale-air exhaust as part of an air-conditioner is that air one has just paid to cool and dehumidiy is what the air-conditioner is pushing out of the house/room. |
Post# 490329 , Reply# 50   1/20/2011 at 09:34 (4,851 days old) by westingman123 ()   |   | |
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It's a paint roller, silly man. One would think your mind was not focused on appliances. |
Post# 490360 , Reply# 52   1/20/2011 at 12:28 (4,851 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Early last summer I was over at my parents, helping them with a bathroom remodel. My father asked if I'd help the little old lady across the street by removing her old air conditioner from her home.
I walked into the house to see this fantastic 1970 GM Frigidaire 19,000 BTU (20A 240v) beast! To say it keeps my main floor cool is an understatement. |
Post# 490362 , Reply# 53   1/20/2011 at 12:29 (4,851 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Post# 490373 , Reply# 54   1/20/2011 at 13:28 (4,851 days old) by 112561 (River Park, in Port St. Lucie, Florida)   |   | |
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Post# 490383 , Reply# 55   1/20/2011 at 14:41 (4,851 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Don't let the new models fool you....the Higher EER's is supposed to be more energy efficient....what it really means is similar to many new washers, the cooling is dubbed down....you select ice cold, and only get moderate coolness....the new machines aren't built better, just dubbed down to give you the idea that its built energy efficient, and alls the manufacturers did was not allow you to turn the thermostat down to a cooler setting.....
the older machines do give you better cooling, in any event, true coolness for energy used as YOU select, not the manufacturer...... not sure about the newer units made today......but on my 1980's kenmores, I can open the control panel up, and with an allen wrench, adjust the thermostat to give me a cooler setting, and it does not run as long....... At Mom's house I have a 30,000BTU unit, cools the entire house, only runs for a few minutes every hour, in auto setting, this unit is very loud, but better to run for a few loud minutes than having several 5000 to 7000 BTU units in every room running all the time.......my electric bill is never over 80.00 in the summer months..... |
Post# 490408 , Reply# 58   1/20/2011 at 16:29 (4,850 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Remember that air conditioners don't so much make cold ... they move heat, from one place to another (inside the house to outside). The BTU rating of an air conditioner is the amount of heat it moves in an hour. BTU/HR. An "old" and a "new" unit (both being in new condition of course) both rated at 10,000 BTU should produce the same amount of cooling ... unless the manufacturer is outright fibbing on the capacity.
Higher airflow rate through the evaporator coil reduces the amount of moisture that is condensed out of the air, related to latent heat content. Lower airflow condenses more moisture. I've noticed there's less difference between higher and lower fan speeds on newer units.
BTU is a unit of heat, the amount of heat required raise (or lower, I suppose) the temperature of 1 pound of (liquid) water by 1°F at 1 atmosphere pressure. A "ton" of cooling is 12,000 BTU/hr, approximately equal to one short ton (2,000 pounds) of ice melting over 24 hrs. |
Post# 490457 , Reply# 59   1/20/2011 at 21:02 (4,850 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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This is where it paid to date someone in the A/C field........
10,000BTU is still 10,000BTU.......but allowing you to use its full potential is what energy saving is all about...... lets take a easier step to understand....central air is controlled by a numbered thermostat.....you would normally have it at 72 degrees...but to save energy you could turn it up to 74 degrees....not so much colder, but you save energy by raising the temp......on a window unit, all you mostly get is a number of 1 to 10, 10 being coldest, now the manufacturers, from behind the control panel, have raised the lowest temp available to only about the number 8, even though you selected 10, air is cool and comfortable, but you may want it a bit colder, now you have run out of selection, and the compressor won't come on until the room warms up.....but from behind the control panel is the thermostat, with a little screw, that can make that machine cool the room to a lower temp......and now you have complete control of how much energy it uses, and how cold you want the room to be...... think of this adjustment that we do to many washing machines water level....the manufacturer didn't make the machine use less energy, all they did was dub down the hot water mixture, and lower the water level....like having a super capacity machine, that only allows you to wash 3/4 size of a load, raising the water level allows you control of washing a full machines potential load.....look at the new Speed Queen TL, 3.3 cu ft tub, but from the manufacturers set water level, you cannot wash a 3.3 cu ft load.....more like 2.5....but theres potential to raise the water level and achieve a 3.3 cu ft load washed effectively.... I have a feeling you guys need to see a pic of a thermostat of one of my machines....I have 2 newer A/C's that now cool the rooms as effectively as the machines they replaced from the 70's...at first they did not... |
Post# 490491 , Reply# 61   1/21/2011 at 02:10 (4,850 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Window unit thermostats are of three types: 1) bi-metal (a little 5.5K BTU Friedrich I have uses this type); 2) capillary; 3) electronic/thermistor on "modern" units. Capillary type is most common on older units and up until electronics came into play. It functions similarly to a water level switch, and like many oven thermostats. A sealed tube is filled with a temperature-sensitive gas (or liquid) which expands/contracts to exert pressure on a diaphram to trigger the switch contacts. The usual temperature range (or it was in the past when I was working in the business) is about 60°F to 90°F, which puts 75°F at mid-position. My grandmother's 16K BTU Friedrich heat/cool unit bought in 2004 seems to fit that range. She's rather cold-natured so doesn't need much air conditioning, 78° to 80°F is all she can take without complaining about being too chilled, which is around "10:30AM" on the dial. |
Post# 490580 , Reply# 65   1/21/2011 at 13:03 (4,850 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)   |   | |
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The tag on the Packard Bell shows a 3/4 hp compressor so that's about 7500 btu's. The entire unit on a hot day pulls 10.6 amps. I'm pretty sure that this unit is late 40's to very early 50's. |
Post# 490581 , Reply# 66   1/21/2011 at 13:04 (4,850 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)   |   | |
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amps |
Post# 490582 , Reply# 67   1/21/2011 at 13:05 (4,850 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)   |   | |
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controls |
Post# 490584 , Reply# 68   1/21/2011 at 13:09 (4,850 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)   |   | |
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Without the wood cabinet. The evaporator blower is a four bladed fan, not a squirrel cage. |
Post# 490599 , Reply# 70   1/21/2011 at 14:36 (4,850 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)   |   | |
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No, 2 seperate motors.. The evap fan is in its own chamber where it can pull air through the filter at the bottom or pull in outside air through a small door that opens on the side. |
Post# 490601 , Reply# 71   1/21/2011 at 14:40 (4,850 days old) by 2packs4sure (houston)   |   | |
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The condenser fan blade has a outer ring around the blades. The condenser itself is the only part of the unit that has really deteriorated. |
Post# 490616 , Reply# 72   1/21/2011 at 16:20 (4,849 days old) by Toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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By the way my painter has informed me that the BEST pant brushes are CHINESE... It's human hair. And that the best paint rollers are lamb's wool and are usually from Greece. (FEH the Greeks know about sheep I have been told). LOL
Quote: At Mom's house I have a 30,000 BTU unit, cools the entire house, only runs for a few minutes every hour in auto setting. This unit is very loud, but better to run for a few loud minutes than having several 5,000 to 7,000 BTU units in every room running all the time.......my electric bill is never over $80 in the summer months..... You may have a slow meter. An over-sized air-condtioner gives you a cold and clammy room/house; it doesn't run enough to dehumidify. A better solution is, IMHO get a 5,000 BTU/h unit to supplement the big one and let it run full-time. The litle one will dehumidify (while cooling "a little") and the big one will cycle off and and off to keep the place cool, temperture-wise. |
Post# 490636 , Reply# 75   1/21/2011 at 18:05 (4,849 days old) by kimball455 (Cape May, NJ)   |   | |
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I remember those huge usually Carrier or York units being installed in the 1950 in restaurants and bars here in Cape May.'The Shore Bar, now AIR CONDITIONED for your comfort'. Water was not metered and in many cases it simply went through the condenser and down the drain. The first AC unit at the post office had the classic wood slat water tower. The opened in 1950 Beach Theatre claimed to be the first air conditioned theatre south of Atlantic City. I had several window units in my Victorian but replaced everything with mini splits a few years ago. Don't have to cool the entire house on many days in summer here at the shore but want the bedrooms to be cool and dry. The mini splits give me the zoning capability to do that. Boardwalk Hall Atlantic City now gets its chilled water for AC from a 17,000 ton central plant that also supplies several of the casinos with both steam and chilled water.
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Post# 490861 , Reply# 77   1/22/2011 at 20:46 (4,848 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Toggles.....
I know what your saying about the humidity level, and I thought about the unit being overkill for the size of the house.......but first the unit is placed in regular fan mode when first turned on, after the rooms and surroundings have cooled, then it is placed in AUTO, and maintains moisture and coolness very well, I was suprised....my main concern for a large unit was Mom cooks alot, and usually large meals, and canning during the summer, and I wanted something to be able to handle the extra heat from the stove, if needed.....there are 12,000BTU units in her bedroom and in mine if I wanted to cycle units around, but their mainly used at night before bed to really chill down the rooms for sleep, and then turned off for the rest of the night......so far everything has been at a comfortable level... |
Post# 713200 , Reply# 79   11/4/2013 at 17:22 (3,831 days old) by williepeck (Tucson )   |   | |
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A 90's Emerson quit kool air conditiner. This was made by fedders. You can tell because it has the general fedders case on the outside With 3 down discharge vents on the back. Sorry about my finger on the top left corner. |
Post# 713209 , Reply# 80   11/4/2013 at 18:23 (3,831 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 713500 , Reply# 81   11/6/2013 at 06:10 (3,830 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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One thing about older ac units was that they produced colder air (probably because of the refrigerant) than the newer ones and were therefore better or at least quicker at dehumidifying. |
Post# 713531 , Reply# 82   11/6/2013 at 12:17 (3,830 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)   |   | |
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Do we have any members who work in HVAC and get pics of old heating/ac stuff? I think that would be interesting. |
Post# 713585 , Reply# 83   11/6/2013 at 19:02 (3,829 days old) by rstacey1990 ()   |   | |
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My most prized one so far is the Philco Ford I acquired a few months back. It has the Air Scan feature that automatically moves the vents and sweeps the air back and forth. |
Post# 713658 , Reply# 85   11/7/2013 at 09:24 (3,829 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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Very nice unit and restoration. What are the specs? |
Post# 713686 , Reply# 86   11/7/2013 at 12:21 (3,829 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 713858 , Reply# 89   11/8/2013 at 06:33 (3,828 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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What a Beautiful restoration.
The sound of that compressor running sent me back to when I was a teenager in NJ and used to love walking around on a hot day looking and listening to all the different models hanging out of windows or through walls. I especially liked watching how much condensate would be dripping if not pouring out of some of the units. Quiet Quality. We had quite the assortment of units in our house. We had a 15,000 GE in the Living Room, we had a 1 ton Fedders in my parent's room, I had a 5,000 Westy MobileAir that I replaced with a 6500 Airtemp (Pics on this thread) and a 13,000 Fedders upstairs on the second floor. 2 years ago, I bought a 8,000 Friedrich thinking it was made in Texas. NOPE. Made in China. Replaced it through warranty after 1 season, and the second one is full of rattles and vibration noises, the airsweep makes a clicking noise when on, I just threw in the towel and would leave it on the coldest setting while I was at work then shut it off when I got home. I am renting now and the window can't accomodate the Airtemp but the last time I fired it up 3 years ago, it was blowing Ice Cold Air. I'll spend a day checking out your Flickr Page soon. Nice to see a Young Man that appreciates the way things were made Long before you were born. |
Post# 713874 , Reply# 90   11/8/2013 at 09:18 (3,828 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Nice to see other Flickr contacts and air conditioner fans joining!
So far, I have accumulated a few units. An early-1960s 9,000 BTU Carrier I got about 20 years ago. A small 8,000 BTU Frigidaire from 1971 A 1967 7,800 BTU Frigidaire that Martin found for me. A huge 12,600 BTU 1974 Frigidaire, this thing is so big that I couldn't fit it in my car's trunk when I got it! A smaller 15,000 BTU 240V Montgomery Ward Signature that I got with Paul on our way to Boston a few weeks ago. |
Post# 714021 , Reply# 92   11/8/2013 at 20:51 (3,827 days old) by rstacey1990 ()   |   | |
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Here is the back of the wanted Hotpoint. this photo is not of the same exact unit as pictured above, but it looks the same on the outside. |
Post# 714022 , Reply# 93   11/8/2013 at 20:52 (3,827 days old) by rstacey1990 ()   |   | |
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Coldspot Air Conditioner Inside: |
Post# 714023 , Reply# 94   11/8/2013 at 20:54 (3,827 days old) by rstacey1990 ()   |   | |
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Sears Coldspot Inside. same set up just a different designed grille. there are quite a few different designs, but the set up is the same |
Post# 714027 , Reply# 96   11/8/2013 at 21:13 (3,827 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )   |   | |
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Is like one my parents best friends had, it was also the biggest window unit I ever saw, I believe it was 32000 btu, our next door neighbor also had one that was 23ooo, and as far as I know its still running, and it was bought in 1970, both blew out COLD! air. |
Post# 714033 , Reply# 97   11/8/2013 at 21:46 (3,827 days old) by rstacey1990 ()   |   | |
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I bet it is still running. Those Coldspot units are no joke! Nice looking machines too. Quality products to say the least. |
Post# 716451 , Reply# 99   11/20/2013 at 08:46 (3,816 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Not the exact model you are looking for but rare non the less.
Hotpoint Porta Cool with the Lexan Outer Case CLICK HERE TO GO TO toploader55's LINK on Boston Craigslist |
Post# 716463 , Reply# 100   11/20/2013 at 09:48 (3,816 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 716466 , Reply# 101   11/20/2013 at 09:58 (3,816 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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They had a line out I think in the late 60s and 70s called "Fasionette.
These came in Avocado, Sunny Yellow, White, Coppertone, and a few more. Check out this Video. 37 degree air. CLICK HERE TO GO TO toploader55's LINK |
Post# 716548 , Reply# 103   11/20/2013 at 15:32 (3,815 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )   |   | |
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Post# 716673 , Reply# 104   11/20/2013 at 23:19 (3,815 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 716844 , Reply# 105   11/21/2013 at 14:38 (3,815 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )   |   | |
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I happen to like so many a/c's you all have, but does anyone have this Chrysler Air Temp. Really like that design - nice if you can swap out A/C's if you get bored with one. :-)
CLICK HERE TO GO TO ovrphil's LINK |
Post# 717203 , Reply# 106   11/23/2013 at 00:53 (3,813 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 717210 , Reply# 107   11/23/2013 at 01:49 (3,813 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 717283 , Reply# 108   11/23/2013 at 15:19 (3,812 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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finding a machine of any type, and matching it to a member who has it on a wish list, and making their dream come true....what more joy can be had!....
you are more than welcome Phil!...although the greatest joy was getting to meet you and hang for a day..... glad it all worked out, and we were able to meet and get this machine to you.... these are all some unique A/C's.....not just for cooling, its all part of the decor.... not to mention how much better these olders units cool compared to todays stuff, no suprise there.... tradition calls for a video.....but how do you video air?.....maybe some streamers or confetti thrown into the breeze......then I think we would be onto a vacuum thread to pick it all up...maybe not such a bright idea....nevermind |
Post# 717353 , Reply# 109   11/24/2013 at 00:07 (3,812 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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I didn't use confetti or vacuum cleaners in these videos but at least you can hear the noise! (Definitely not as much action as in videos of washers!).
www.flickr.com/photos/33723086@N0...
www.flickr.com/photos/33723086@N0...
www.flickr.com/photos/33723086@N0... |
Post# 717355 , Reply# 110   11/24/2013 at 00:27 (3,812 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )   |   | |
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The early 50s Carrier window units that have a cast iron semi hermetic compressor and use Freon 500 ,,maybe 502?? At any rate those were the QUIETEST and the coldest monsters that ever were! |
Post# 717375 , Reply# 112   11/24/2013 at 08:54 (3,812 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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thanks Phil.....those are some beautiful machines....timeless and priceless....
for somewhat newer versions, well, more like 80's style, I found the Kenmores very quiet compared to the Whirlpool counterpart.....I am on the hunt for a few Kenmores, I like the woodgrain fronts....I also like to stay around 8000 to 12000 btus |
Post# 717391 , Reply# 114   11/24/2013 at 11:08 (3,812 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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Our neighbors across the street in 1955 had a couple of those Carriers. I remember the gray plastic ovoid inside grill with the solid center and the concentric bands. |
Post# 717530 , Reply# 115   11/24/2013 at 22:11 (3,811 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 717532 , Reply# 116   11/24/2013 at 22:13 (3,811 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Post# 717536 , Reply# 117   11/24/2013 at 22:29 (3,811 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)   |   | |
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Post# 717538 , Reply# 118   11/24/2013 at 22:47 (3,811 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )   |   | |
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toploader - thanks Eddie, I will read that link tomorrow...looks interesting!
PhilR - I like the third video of your Fridgidaire A/C but they're all nice. And not related, thanks again for the brochure for the Amana radarange. I need to print it out, yet. Martin - before I came to aw.org, I was smiling in a snickering-way at the old vintage faux-wood appliances. Since hangin' out here, I'm taking another look at the faux wood look and liking it all over again. LOL! Robert - nice unit - so pristine...is it fairly quiet ? I have a couple questions - anyone know which A/C's had the rotating vents? Also, were there A/C units that had humidity controls as well? I thought I read on aw.org sometime, that there were, but didn't see anyone mention which units. |
Post# 717543 , Reply# 119   11/24/2013 at 23:11 (3,811 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 717564 , Reply# 120   11/25/2013 at 02:22 (3,811 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 717665 , Reply# 121   11/25/2013 at 15:10 (3,810 days old) by Davey7 (Chicago)   |   | |
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Did somebody break into my place and take pictures of my Frigidaire AC units!!!!! |
Post# 717680 , Reply# 122   11/25/2013 at 16:59 (3,810 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 717717 , Reply# 123   11/25/2013 at 20:54 (3,810 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)   |   | |
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Post# 717724 , Reply# 124   11/25/2013 at 21:32 (3,810 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)   |   | |
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Two separate modes of operation. Hi and lo speeds for "fan only" mode and Hi and lo speeds for "cooling" mode |
Post# 717775 , Reply# 125   11/26/2013 at 00:09 (3,810 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )   |   | |
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toploader - I was talking about those vents that are automatic, not the manual ones. I remember seeing them somewhere sometime. Thanks for replying, Eddie.
I saw this : www.air-n-water.com/product/rads-... and thought there was a window air conditioner made by Chrysler or another brand, maybe late 60s or 70s, that had a control built in for humidity control. I know you can attach an external humidity control that enables the unit to turn on or off when it reaches a selected humidity level. So maybe I'm dreaming, regarding that feature being offered 40 years ago or so. |
Post# 717816 , Reply# 126   11/26/2013 at 07:37 (3,810 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)   |   | |
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Coldspot |
Post# 717817 , Reply# 127   11/26/2013 at 07:38 (3,810 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)   |   | |
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. |
Post# 717886 , Reply# 128   11/26/2013 at 16:34 (3,809 days old) by rstacey1990 ()   |   | |
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that is a sweet looking Chrysler Airtemp you got there! I have your videos of it saved to my favorites on my youtube channel |
Post# 717887 , Reply# 129   11/26/2013 at 16:38 (3,809 days old) by rstacey1990 ()   |   | |
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Norgeway, those Carrier units are neat! that's on my want, but probably never going to find list LMAO!! |
Post# 717906 , Reply# 131   11/26/2013 at 18:54 (3,809 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )   |   | |
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Bill(wiskybill) - Wow, that's it! Do you have such a model? What happened to features like this? Were they marginally successful or like so many other things, just didn't get the interest because of de-humidifiers(talking to myself here...lol) Thank you for posting this.
rstacey1990 - I wish I was the owner of that Chrysler Air Temp...but I just posted it as a "like". I've never seen one like it. It's amazing how generic looking today's window A/C's look.. Then again, nah. |
Post# 717912 , Reply# 132   11/26/2013 at 19:27 (3,809 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )   |   | |
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Post# 717917 , Reply# 133   11/26/2013 at 19:58 (3,809 days old) by wiskybill (Canton, Ohio)   |   | |
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Sadly, no. I only have the product literature. It appears to have a print date of Oct/59. This was for a model 106.60150 which has the controls in the top picture. According to charts for Sears mfg. codes that I've looked at, 106 is a Whirlpool code. |
Post# 717920 , Reply# 134   11/26/2013 at 20:06 (3,809 days old) by HooverWheelAway ()   |   | |
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Here's the back of the RCA Whirlpool... Bland and boring, no cool escutcheon or brand identification. |
Post# 717922 , Reply# 135   11/26/2013 at 20:09 (3,809 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )   |   | |
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Post# 717999 , Reply# 136   11/26/2013 at 23:53 (3,809 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 756719 , Reply# 138   5/13/2014 at 10:59 (3,642 days old) by fred1965 ()   |   | |
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anyone wanting to buy one let me know.i have it for sell. |
Post# 756742 , Reply# 139   5/13/2014 at 13:27 (3,642 days old) by countryford (Austin, MN)   |   | |
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Post# 756956 , Reply# 141   5/14/2014 at 15:39 (3,641 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Hans,
Among vintage units, there are some that have a poor EER, and others with a better EER. I think anything with an EER of 8 or more is fine, with less than that, it's better to either have cheap electricity rates or for occasional use. There are some older units with a surprisingly good EER. My 1974 Frigidaire pictured above has 9.6 which is almost as good as some new units. And it's built to last! |
Post# 777668 , Reply# 146   8/16/2014 at 22:47 (3,546 days old) by zippyjet (Baltimore)   |   | |
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Someone mentioned in this thread they had a GE or Hotpoint unit that cooled real well but the fan output was weak. Several years back, an HVAC repairman showed me a little trick to restore some cooling and operating efficiency in these units. The squirrel cage fan would accumulate dirt and gunk on each blade inside the cage. He took an old butter knife and cleaned off each blade. Then plugged the A/C unit in the outlet and turned it on. The unit put out like it was brand new increasing it's efficiency. If you want to see lots of pictures of old window a/c units go to Flickr.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO zippyjet's LINK |
Post# 777681 , Reply# 147   8/17/2014 at 01:03 (3,546 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Simon, It's funny, you made a comment about my small RCA TV on Flickr just a few hours ago!
Ken knows a lot about old air conditioners.
You probably saw the picture of the last air conditioner I got last week. I really like it!
CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK |
Post# 812602 , Reply# 151   3/6/2015 at 15:07 (3,344 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)   |   | |
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I have an old Fedders that was installed over the door of my local market as a kid, so its well over 60 years old. It is about 4 feet long and 12 inches square and has the big round diffuser on the front and controls on the top. I plugged it in a couple years ago and it still poured freezing air out of it. I want to clear out that attic and if anyone here on AW wants it, they can have it, as I will never use it.
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Post# 1076130 , Reply# 153   6/7/2020 at 01:05 (1,425 days old) by Zhinkle87 (Aberdeen, sd)   |   | |
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100% complete, in still working order....if interested
View Full Size
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Post# 1076211 , Reply# 154   6/7/2020 at 15:34 (1,425 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Would some kind soul (see what I did there?) explain how that Coldspot AC with a humidistat worked?
Find the concept genius, and as one sitting through a very humid early summer (but not necessarily overly warm) find the concept of a portable AC with humidity control separate from cooling fascinating. |
Post# 1076231 , Reply# 156   6/7/2020 at 17:50 (1,424 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 1076238 , Reply# 157   6/7/2020 at 18:09 (1,424 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Post# 1076242 , Reply# 158   6/7/2020 at 18:39 (1,424 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Higher-end central A/C system may have an electronic humidistat integrated into the thermostat. Allows the homeowner to set a target humidity level. However, the only way to reduce humidity is by running the cooling longer which drops the room temperature below the setpoint. Multi-speed systems can compensate to a degree (LOL) by switching to lower speeds that more closely match the heat load so the compressor keeps running to wring moisture out of the air without lowering the temperature as much. The parents have a two-speed system with humidity control. A set-up parameter on the thermostat specifies how far below the temperature setpoint the system is allowed to run in an attempt to reach the humidity setpoint. Dad tends to get chilled. Mom asked me recently why does it get down to 74°F when set on 76°F. 2°F overrun allowance, and it was set at 45%. The humidity setting is on a submenu. Too complicated for them to find it. I raised the % but left the overrun at 2°F. |
Post# 1076262 , Reply# 159   6/7/2020 at 20:50 (1,424 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )   |   | |
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Not quite the same, but our Mitsubishi mini split has a dehumidify setting but no ability to set the humidity level. I only tried it the once and it ran on a low fan speed and cooled the house down pretty much as if it was just set on a low cool. I didn't check further to see if it was cycling on / off.
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Post# 1076783 , Reply# 161   6/12/2020 at 01:02 (1,420 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Reading owners manuals for air conditioners years ago (or maybe it was CR?) where it was suggested during warm and very humid weather to set fan speed to "low", and adjust cool to a temperature that suited. Idea was that low fan speed allowed indoor air longer contact with condenser to wring out more moisture.
Can do that with my modern Friedrich (one of the last still made in Texas), but usually have it set to "Energy Saver" which cycles fan on and off with condenser. From what one has seen however this AC doesn't vary fan speed to suit indoor humidity conditions. |
Post# 1078448 , Reply# 163   6/24/2020 at 00:18 (1,408 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Past several days have been very damp, and noticed when turning on AC it starts high fan, then goes down to low. It will remain that way for most of time on, maybe always for all I know as stop paying attention.
So guess this Friedrich AC does have some sort of way to tell humidity when using "money saver" setting. Going by amount of water sloshing around inside unit, does a pretty good job removing humidity. These newer Friedrich air conditioners (according to owners manual) aren't supposed to drain condensation. But the water is slug by fan onto compressor or something to help with cooling and efficiency. One can allow condesnate to drain by punching out a hole in corner of pan at front, then attaching a plug or some sort of thing (supplied by Friedrich) to allow draining of water. This or if there is far too much condensate if unit is tilted backwards properly water will drain out anyway. |
Post# 1078451 , Reply# 164   6/24/2020 at 00:41 (1,408 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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my Aunt had a Central HVAC system that incorporated a Dehumidify setting/function...
it allowed the A/C and the Heater to run at the same time.... this was extremely helpful on rainy days, where as the A/C would run by itself, but cause a clammy/over chilled feeling..... now with the addition of some warm air, it kept everyone comfortable.... this same feature is available on your vehicle, which many dont realize when you select 'Defrost' for the windshield, the A/C compressor kicks in as well...again, during a rain storm, temperature and humidity are at a more comfortable level... |
Post# 1078452 , Reply# 165   6/24/2020 at 00:42 (1,408 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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There's a 70's era GE window AC unit high up on top of a wall in the enclosed patio here. It trips the circuit breaker for that line if I run it. If I can find the model number and post it, would there be a chance of getting manuals, schematics, etc? Not that I intend to run it much, but it would be nice to restore it to working condition. The big problem is how to get it down from there; it's about eight feet up, and I'm sure it weighs a ton.
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Post# 1078478 , Reply# 167   6/24/2020 at 09:20 (1,408 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)   |   | |
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Yogi, I always wondered why a/c manufacturers didn't incorporate a heat/cool function to handle humidity. Seems like a good idea. |
Post# 1078491 , Reply# 168   6/24/2020 at 12:24 (1,408 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Power usage concerns when heating is resistance? Automobile air conditioner systems moderate the temperature by involving the heater core. Sliding the temp lever toward the warmer end opens a baffle that diverts an increasing volume of the airflow through the heater. Those with auto temp control usually run the compressor during heating unless an "economy" option is selected. Mine doesn't always run the compressor depending on how cold is the outdoor temp but it can be turned on with the AC button if desired. |
Post# 1078579 , Reply# 169   6/25/2020 at 02:05 (1,407 days old) by SudsMaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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Post# 1078596 , Reply# 170   6/25/2020 at 07:39 (1,407 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Whirlpool built window A/Cs for Sears from about 1960- the early 70s that had a separate humidistat control so the user could not only adjust the temperature but also precisely adjust the humidity desired.
They built many different models over this time period in capacities of around 11,000 and 18,000 cooling BTUs. the lower capacity models were built in both 120 volt and 240 volt the the 18s were always 240 volts.
We an 11,000 BTU 120 volt model at the museum, These were really neat machines, they have a 2nd condenser behind the evaporator so they can cool and dehumidify the room air but if the room is already cool enough but the humidity is still higher than desired a reversing valve similar to what a heat-pump uses energizes and flows into the 2nd condenser behind the evaporator and rewarms the air.
To my knowledge no other company ever did this, we had one of these units here in our house that I installed and my Uncle in Chevy Chase had two of them I helped install at their home that worked great, the early 70s one in a basement window is still in use and working.
Some central A/C units in the 50s-60s allowed you to select the humidity level in the house by running electric strip heating elements in the duct work while running the A/C compressor, this worked great but you can only imagine how expensive these systems were to run.
The best you can do today to better control humidity with either central or window A/C is to not oversize the cooling system, and to NEVER keep the inside fan running when the compressor shuts off. Using a lower fan speed can help a little bit as well.
John L. |
Post# 1124418 , Reply# 172   7/29/2021 at 21:11 (1,007 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 1124427 , Reply# 173   7/29/2021 at 23:50 (1,007 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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I took my 20 year old Goldstar 5k unit apart to clean it before posting it on CL for sale. That thing was FILTHY inside! The fan had chunks of "stuff" stuck to it. I soaked it in bleach and scrubbed it with a toothbrush. The styrofoam was covered too, bleached it also. The rear coil had so much fuzz and dust caked on it from the inside. I couldn't get in there to clean it so I used my air compressor and an air gun. It worked. It cleaned up nicely and would make someone a good single room AC for $25. But even in this heatwave no one has bitten yet. |
Post# 1124467 , Reply# 174   7/30/2021 at 11:27 (1,007 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 1188019 , Reply# 175   8/20/2023 at 00:13 (256 days old) by casec1232 (Larkspur)   |   | |
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Hi all, found this in parents old storage unit, must have been there 15 plus years unused. Anyone able to identify it? Is it worth fixing up? |