Thread Number: 36221
Transmission oil |
[Down to Last] |
|
Post# 539631 , Reply# 1   8/25/2011 at 23:00 (4,627 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 539638 , Reply# 2   8/25/2011 at 23:23 (4,627 days old) by kenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
First, the oil used in these transmissions is 60-weight non-detergent motor oil. I've looked for lower cost substitutes, but not found a 60-weight oil anywhere. It may be worth a try again however as this was several years ago.
The Whirlpool oil bottle is 15oz according to my catalog, but others say 16oz. It is indeed very expensive. If not using Whirlpool's FSP oil, I have debated about Valvoline Racing 50-weight oil, as it should be heavy enough, and light on detergent since it's a racing oil. Last I checked Auto Zone had it for $3-something per quart. Heavily detergented oil might cause a foaming condition under a heated operation, but since this gearcase does not get overly warm, and racing oil is light on detergent, I don't think this is truly a big deal. I have yet to try this however. The link that Laundress provided should be a decent source of info., but in this case the responder who suggested 90-weight material in my opinion is wrong. I think it too heavy and might be a drag on the gears. If this was appropriate, WP would have spec'd it. To your other question, yes indeed you need to remove the cam bar, otherwise you will not be able to remove the cover. That operation can be a pain, as can putting it back later, but it is almost all the way out already. Just tap it the rest of the way out by using a flat-blade screw driver to push it out toward the front of the gearcase. Clean the plunger before you put it back - it's got some debris or rust on it. Based on the appearance of your transmission, it looks to me like you have water contamination inside the case. To do this work properly, you need to replace the shaft seal under the cover, which helps prevent future water from entering the case, and bilge from spalshing out as well. You may also have rusted or broken springs underneath, which very certainly should be replaced when you have acces to them. You should also correct the source of the water leak, which is very likely worn seals in the spin tube and centerpost. You've done a lot of work to get this far, but you have more work to follow! One thing I can tell you - I have a gearcase here that was at one time easily as fouled as yours. I did what you're talking about - cleaned the entire gearcase, part by part, in a parts washer. Let everything dry, and re-assembled it with new springs and seal, and it's now washed at least 1,000 loads of laundry since 1995. Feel free to ask further, and good luck. Gordon |
Post# 539693 , Reply# 4   8/26/2011 at 07:39 (4,627 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
I always used 70, 80 or 90 weight oil in WP BD gear cases and in fact if you have an old slightly worn GC it would be quieter and give a little more protection to use at least 90 weight oil. In reality it is not very critical what type or weight of oil is used, this will be the least of the problems you will ever have with this washer. I actually saw one of these washers run for over four of heavy use with no oil in it at all [ it did finally destroy the gear case and gears, we replaced that gear case]. Just be sure what ever oil you use that it won't harm the two bronze bushings in the top cover as apparently some oil formulations have ingredients that can harm yellow metals. Good luck. |
Post# 539923 , Reply# 8   8/27/2011 at 08:07 (4,626 days old) by kenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Chris -
This definitely looks like a gearcase which has been contaminated. Good gearcase oil is a deep golden color. I've had them where there was still clear water everywhere on top of the oil goo, and one which had dried for 5 years, which literally looked like molasses. I'm not sure what thickens the oil. My suggestion is to tip the case over and let the glop run out into a catch pan. When you've done that, you can clean the parts with solvent, but make sure it doesn't leave a residue which could attack the new oil. One suggestion I could make if you don't have solvent is to use some gasoline and an old paintbrush. That works really well. Be careful not to loose pieces of the gasket that goes in between the base and the cover. Please keep us posted! Gordon |