I don't see too much discussion on these machines here which seems a bit strange since they are such a significant part of US laundry machine history. I have an old MAH3000AWW SN# 18XXX built in Dec 1997. It was a very problematic machine for the first 7 or 8 years I owned it. I had all of the classic problems including the faulty wax motor burning up the control board, the poorly thought out switch reluctance motor and drive, the tub bearings going bad, The same faulty wax motors in the dispenser unit, top of machine rusting out under the dispenser bezel, mold build up on the tub sealing boot and a couple of bad timers. Fortunately for most of this time I had a Maytag factory service contract on the machine so all of the repairs and upgrades were covered by Maytag. It took a while but it seems that Maytag eventually effectively addressed most of these problems. For example my machine has had all three wax motors replaced so the main control board and the timer are no longer burning up. I have not heard of these new wax motors failing. I also upgraded the 400V triacs on the control board to 600V parts since this was one of the prevalent theories as to why these boards and wax motors were failing. (kind of like the chicken and the egg idea). The machine's drive motor and motor control board have both been replaced with a multi phase inverter drive system. The lousy switch reluctance motor and drive is gone. The new motor and drive seems to be very robust and I have not heard of any failures with them. The outer tub (complete with bearings) has been replaced. I don't this this design has been upgraded but there has evolved a much better understanding of the real need to use HE detergent and not excessive quantities of it. The sealed moldy boot was replaced with one that has a drain built into it. This hasn't completely cured the mold problem but it has greatly improved it and made it managable. And I replaced the machine top (easy fix) to stop the rust chunks from falling into my detergent dispenser. So as I said, this was a very problematic machine when I got it but since all of the "corrections" have been made to it, it seems to now be a very good and robust washer. I haven't had any problem at all with it for the last 6 years. I'm thinking these machines, once updated, are now very good machines now. What do you think?

Even cheaper yet, but how much is a new control board?

Control boards can routinely be bought on Ebay for between $39 and $149.  But if you are handy with a soldering iron, they can often be fixed for about $9 worth of parts.  The high failure rate on these boards is theorized to have nothing to do with the board itself (although there is one very credible gentleman up in Washington State that believes the problem IS that there are 4 triacs on the board that were rated at too low a voltage) but rather the faulty wax motor in the door shorting out and taking the control board out with it.   This is usually easily fixed by replacing R11, which is a 3.9k ohm 1/2 watt resistor and Q6 which is a 400V, 800mA triac (I replace them with a 600V 1A triac because I think the gentleman in Washington makes a good point) and the faulty wax motor.  So often times, you don't even need to buy a control board, just fix the one you've got.  I've rescued a couple of machines from the scrap heap and put them back into service for just the cost of these three parts, $9.  The friends that I passed them on to have been and still are, very happy.

That is an MAH3000AWW.  I've seen them on CL fo $30 and all they needed was the repair I mentioned  above.