Thread Number: 42566
My new Radarange!
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Post# 626325   9/20/2012 at 12:01 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

For years, I've been waiting to find a RR4DW or older Radarange locally and I finally found one!  It's a RR2. 

 

And it works!



CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK




Post# 626326 , Reply# 1   9/20/2012 at 12:05 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Cory or Ben, can you tell me what's the year of manufacture by the serial number?  I'm guessing 1968-69 as it seems newer ones seem to have a darker color control panel in ads. But I'd really like to know more about these!  


Post# 626327 , Reply# 2   9/20/2012 at 12:06 (4,243 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

petek's profile picture

Nice rare find these days,, especially that model. It looks like you're missing the glass tray though?   

 

Somethings wrong with mine right now that needs addressing... for some strange reason it began starting up all on it's own even though both dials were in the off position. I don't know what to make of it so I carted it down to the basement.  :( 

 

 


Post# 626329 , Reply# 3   9/20/2012 at 12:12 (4,243 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Wow, that's a rare find right there. Looking at the serial number, I would put this one at 1969 (S).

What's funny about these is that the model tag is on the bottom of the machine, rather than the back like the majority of RR's made. This one looks C L E A N!

Congrats Phil!

Ben


Post# 626330 , Reply# 4   9/20/2012 at 12:13 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

You're right Pete, it's missing the glass tray. I hope to find one for it!

 

What's the model number of yours?  




This post was last edited 09/20/2012 at 12:30
Post# 626332 , Reply# 5   9/20/2012 at 12:18 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Ben,

 

The chrome has some minor pitting but it's in quite good shape and it seems to work well! Both timers light up and work too! I'll need to find a glass tray for it and probably replace the power cord.

 

I have been searching for one like this or a newer one for quite some time locally and I finally got one at a reasonable price. Not a 15$ bargain but twice that price was still ok I think!


Post# 626345 , Reply# 6   9/20/2012 at 13:15 (4,243 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)        
2012...year of the RR-2's

cadman's profile picture
Now that is a clean machine! Yes, the early powercords seem to fall apart on these based on the ones I've dragged home. It'll be interesting to see how it performs once you get a tray in there as it looks pretty low-hour.

Ben, I believe that's the back of the unit. The early models had a 'foot' installed on the back to keep space for airflow and prevent undue strain on the cord where it exits the unit. No way would a manufacturer do that today! -Cory


Post# 626347 , Reply# 7   9/20/2012 at 13:25 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Cory, it does have a foot at the back (I was wondering why!) but the model tag is under it. (just below the left side of the door). 

 

I just had to eat a frozen dinner to try it! It's a bit slower than my two RCM-10, I guess it has a lower power rating. What are they? If I remember well, my RCM-10 (RR9) are something like 725 or 750W? Other than that, I noticed that these have a motorized stirrer. It's strange to hear the cooking sounds through the grille in the door! Which model introduced the glass door?


Post# 626351 , Reply# 8   9/20/2012 at 13:30 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

There are two stickers at the back


Post# 626352 , Reply# 9   9/20/2012 at 13:31 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

The other one:


Post# 626354 , Reply# 10   9/20/2012 at 13:41 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Another view of the back. 


Post# 626358 , Reply# 11   9/20/2012 at 14:32 (4,243 days old) by rockland1 ()        

Back in the day when I sold Sharp microwaves, we had to buy an Amana like this so we could do the egg test. In the Sharp with the turntable, the eggs would always be evenly cooked. Unfortunately, in the Amana they would not. Often times the eggs would explode and then you had a real mess! The chrome does look nice!

Post# 626364 , Reply# 12   9/20/2012 at 15:06 (4,243 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture
So did it pass the refrigerant leak test?? LOL

Very, very cool microwave there, Phil! You have shamed me into dusting off the 68 Tappan that has been sitting and gathering dust in the storage loft in the garage - depending on if the fridge guy shows on Saturday or not, I may just have bring the Tappan out to play!


Post# 626365 , Reply# 13   9/20/2012 at 15:11 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Ed,

I have an Hitachi with a turntable (and a newer Sanyo too) and both make eggs explode on highest settings! (the Hitachi just has a Defrost function). With my newer late seventies Amana/Frigidaire "Touchmatic" style MW ovens, there's still no turntable but if using a low power setting (I use "2"), eggs won't explode... In both my newer MW ovens, the stirrer is air driven and they both didn't turn (which caused hot spots) because the plastic shield under them has deformed over time. I just had to cut about 1/4" of the stirrer blades to make them work again. 


Post# 626366 , Reply# 14   9/20/2012 at 15:14 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Paul,

 

I think this sticker applied to refrigerators too! 


Post# 626385 , Reply# 15   9/20/2012 at 16:44 (4,243 days old) by bellalaundry (St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada)        

bellalaundry's profile picture
There is no glass on the door?!

Interesting!


Post# 626441 , Reply# 16   9/20/2012 at 21:15 (4,243 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

It's just a perforated piece of stainless steel. That's what's needed to stop the microwaves from going out. I'm wondering what happens if you put a paper clip through one of these holes while the microwave oven is working. I did use one to clean a few holes that were blocked by food particles but not while it was working!

 

Here's a link to Cory's website. Looking at it again has answered some of my earlier questions!



CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK

Post# 626444 , Reply# 17   9/20/2012 at 21:51 (4,243 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)        
I hope

"exploding eggs" did not mean an attempt to cook eggs that were still in their shells, for that is silly, messy, and potentially dangerous.


I detest eggs, and only use them as a baking ingredient, but I know to poke the yolk with a clean toothpick before cooking one in a small dish (like a Pyrex custard cup) in a microwave.


Phil- Excellent catch!!


Lawrence/Maytagbear


Post# 626453 , Reply# 18   9/20/2012 at 22:13 (4,242 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        
Radarange Grail!

gansky1's profile picture
Now that is cool. Jon has one in Melrose that I have a lusty affair with every time I see it. It's a thrill to know there are deadly microwaves bouncing around, trying to get out but they're too fat to get through the holes in the door screen. All that gets through is the savory cooking scents. Congrats!

Post# 626537 , Reply# 19   9/21/2012 at 10:21 (4,242 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
I also believe the foot on the back of the unit also acted as a spacer to ensure the air port on the back was not blocked from air flow. Air also exhausts out of a vent below the controls on the bottom of the unit. Later units (starting with the 4 series) had the vent built into the top of the control panel.

Ben


Post# 626622 , Reply# 20   9/21/2012 at 17:24 (4,242 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

I guess these changes happened at the same time they covered the grille in the door and they changed from a motor-driven stirrer to an air-driven stirrer. 


Post# 626797 , Reply# 21   9/22/2012 at 13:00 (4,241 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

I just ordered a glass tray for it on eBay. With the shipping, it will cost more than the MW itself... But it won't cost more than visiting all the thrift stores in the region again for one of these (I already did it!). 

 

I just hope it will get here in one piece!


Post# 626819 , Reply# 22   9/22/2012 at 14:00 (4,241 days old) by jakins (Kissimmee, Fl.)        
Loved this when i had my Radarange

jakins's profile picture
helped a lot with the older micros

CLICK HERE TO GO TO jakins's LINK on eBay


Post# 626975 , Reply# 23   9/22/2012 at 23:38 (4,240 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

The only microwave oven I ever had with a turntable is the Hitachi in the picture above (which I don't use much). All the others had none and I never had an issue with that. 

 

The only problem I had was with blocked stirrers in the "newer" Amanas with an air driven stirrer which caused hot spots. Once repaired, they heat more evenly.  To anyone who still uses their RR4 or newer Amanas and that noticed it cooks very unevenly, I'd suggest to look at the stirrer to see if it moves while the MW is operating. You don't see the stirrer itself but you can see it's shadow moving on the white splatter shield when the light is on. If it doesn't, chances are it's blocked by the splatter shield that has distorted. To easily fix that, simply remove the shield and cut about ¼" of the aluminum blade where it contacts the shield (that should happen on the part of the shield that goes up near the light bulb at the back of the oven.

 

 

 



CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK

Post# 627039 , Reply# 24   9/23/2012 at 09:43 (4,240 days old) by michaelman2 (Lauderdale by the Sea, FL)        

This post has been removed by the member who posted it.



Post# 627040 , Reply# 25   9/23/2012 at 09:45 (4,240 days old) by michaelman2 (Lauderdale by the Sea, FL)        

Sorry for the delete...I had found a tray on eBay and posted it...then realized that you had already located one...good news!


Post# 627044 , Reply# 26   9/23/2012 at 10:27 (4,240 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

There were quite a few on eBay when I checked but none available to Canada... I emailed one of the sellers who accepted to ship it here. If you still have the link, you can still post it! It might serve other members or even myself if it's cheap (I have 3 ovens that use these so having a spare isn't a bad idea!). 


Post# 627067 , Reply# 27   9/23/2012 at 14:27 (4,240 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
My RR-2 has an end of cycle buzzer

jetcone's profile picture
the one Greg is lusting after. Its a small switch located at the very bottom of the machine under the control panel. It has a nasty sound!

I always leave it off.



Post# 627082 , Reply# 28   9/23/2012 at 15:39 (4,240 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Really?

 

Can you post a picture of it and of the serial number? It would be interesting to know when they started to add that!

 

Is the control panel on yours painted in the same gray as mine or is it darker? I have seen some ads featuring RR-2s that seemed to have a darker panel. Maybe it's just in ads...

 

 


Post# 627152 , Reply# 29   9/23/2012 at 19:44 (4,240 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Differences between my RCM-10 and RR-2


Post# 627154 , Reply# 30   9/23/2012 at 19:46 (4,240 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

RCM-10 with air-driven stirrer.


Post# 627156 , Reply# 31   9/23/2012 at 19:48 (4,240 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

RR-2 with motor-driven stirrer. The shield in this one is semi-transparent rather than more opaque white and there are no vent holes in it. It's also held by 7 screws instead of 4. 




This post was last edited 09/24/2012 at 00:34
Post# 630051 , Reply# 32   10/7/2012 at 16:30 (4,226 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

I'm still waiting for the glass tray for the RR-2 but this weekend, I decided to follow the repair procedure on Cory's website for one of my other microwaves. My Frigidaire RCM-10 microwaves are almost identical to an Amana RR-9T (or RRL-9TA) and the touchpads and digital displays on both of them were a bit erratic. One of them became worse this week as it was constantly displaying "4"s even if I didn't touch the touchpad (the other does the same if it gets very humid inside). I bought 2 of the 3 capacitors that often fail in these this morning and I replaced them. The touchpad works nicely again! Now, I need to find the other capacitor and I'll replace it too as well as the 3 capacitors in my other RCM-10 oven.   Thanks to Cory's detailed explanations, it was an easy job!

 

 


Post# 630123 , Reply# 33   10/7/2012 at 21:43 (4,226 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Here;s the

jetcone's profile picture
buzzer shot, havent' got behind yet to see the serial number, its an RR2 .


Post# 630124 , Reply# 34   10/7/2012 at 21:44 (4,226 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
new dial installed

jetcone's profile picture
nice lite!

Post# 630130 , Reply# 35   10/7/2012 at 21:58 (4,226 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
Hi Jon,
The model and serial number tag should be under it! I would be curious to see the serial number and as many details as you could provide!
Please send more pics!

Here's the sticker where yours has a buzzer switch on mine.


Post# 630144 , Reply# 36   10/7/2012 at 22:27 (4,225 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
I also took one of the RCM-10 at the same time.

Post# 630191 , Reply# 37   10/8/2012 at 07:57 (4,225 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)        

cadman's profile picture
Phil, glad the cap replacement was successful! Stunning machines!

Regarding the buzzer switch...I should check my RR-2, but I don't think I've seen one without it. My RR-8A still has the cutout for the switch but that model uses a bell. However my 6W (the first digital machine) uses that switch even though the 'buzzer' is a much nicer electronic beep (quieter than the later ones) that times out after a few seconds. The switch completely disables it. Odd really. -Cory


Post# 630197 , Reply# 38   10/8/2012 at 08:47 (4,225 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Its a nasty little

jetcone's profile picture
buzzer- makes you get right over to the machine. I rarely use it!
I'll check for Ser#


Post# 630357 , Reply# 39   10/8/2012 at 23:46 (4,224 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Thanks Jon!

 

Hi Cory,

 

That means yours also has the buzzer? Do you know how to tell the approximate production dates from the serial numbers?

 

I thought most RR-2s lacked the buzzer as I saw this on your website: 

 

RR-2  (1968)

Essentially an RR-1 with the addition of a STOP button. The timers are still additive but the 25min timer has been bumped to 30min. Upper and lower timers swap locations where they will stay through the 4D series. The front is now entirely bright chrome. The perforated door screen continues to lack clear plastic panels on either side, making splatter cleanup difficult. RR-2's still lack an end of cycle chime/buzzer.


Post# 630392 , Reply# 40   10/9/2012 at 07:58 (4,224 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)        

cadman's profile picture
You know what, I remember writing that based off the service lit I had at the time. This was a couple years before I acquired my 2; likely an early running change. Regarding serial numbers, that's something I haven't delved into yet. I should be able to get access to my 2 this week. I'll get the serno and we can compare. -Cory

Post# 630432 , Reply# 41   10/9/2012 at 11:49 (4,224 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Ok, can you tell me if the shade of gray of the control panels changed during the RR-2 production. Some ads I have seen which display RR-2 seem to show some with a darker gray. It could be just how they were printed or scanned but since the newer ones seem to have darker panels I'd be interested to know if it was changed during the production of the RR-2.


Post# 630433 , Reply# 42   10/9/2012 at 11:49 (4,224 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
This thread has me looking for the old Amana radaranges. I found several, but most are far from me...

Cory's link (www.radar58.com/radarange/radar.h...) is really good - does anyone know of any other references similar to it?

PhilR (that's my initials, fyi) : LIKE your Frigidaire Touch-n-Cook microwave - those and the stoves are like, no where to be found on Craigslist...do a search for them, using a couple different craigslist search machines, and nothing! They're probably under a listing for "microwave" with a photo of it. Touch-n-Cook stoves are nice, too.

Thanks for this thread - something else I now can get distracted with...and I've included one of a few links I found for these old beauties. My Gulfstream III is in repair and my pilots are all on vacation, so anyone near Lakeland, get this PRISTINE unit and yes, I'm jealous whoever gets it.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO ovrphil's LINK on Lakeland Craigslist


Post# 630437 , Reply# 43   10/9/2012 at 11:54 (4,224 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Here's another RR-2 that I saw for sale that seems to lack the buzzer switch. It's control panel is the same color as mine. 


Post# 630440 , Reply# 44   10/9/2012 at 12:06 (4,224 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
chrome and others (RRL-5C)

ovrphil's profile picture
I like the buzzer, but someone commented that it was a little annoying. Well, so is my car buzzer(1990 MB300E ) when I first turn on the car(seatbelt reminder), but that's the way they made them, and a mark in time. I saw some newer Amana's that I like alot , in that link - a few were available in other states. I didn't bookmark..sorry, I don't have the links. BUT...a nice pristine unit, that I don't like as much as the chromed radaranges, is available at the posted link. I wish there was a complete guide of Amana Radaranges, as Cory's site got me "glowing". :p)

Question: I read that these Amana's have wattages from 1000-1600watts. Isn't 1500watts the limit or did that happen after some regulations? I also read that these Amana's, besides weighing in at 50-75lbs(?), will cook much faster than many of today's countertop models(not comparing to the bigger over-the-stove microwaves).

Love the chrome ones, but would be happy with almost any of the pre-1984 m-waves.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO ovrphil's LINK on Huntsville Craigslist


Post# 630442 , Reply# 45   10/9/2012 at 12:17 (4,224 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Phil, 

The first Frigidaire MW I found was in Atlanta!  The other one and the Amana were local finds. 

 

I have been searching for a "Touch-N-Cook" range or cooktop for a while and I couldn't find one...  I'd prefer a cooktop!

 

While we're talking about it, Frigidaire apparently started using "Touch-N-Cook" panels on it's 1973-74 appliances, I'm wondering when Amama started to use the touchpads on it's MW ovens (1975?) and how Frigidaire and Amana seemed to share this technology (GM on conventional ranges, ovens and cooktops, Amana on it's Radaranges) before Frigidaire had it's own "Touch-N-Cook" microwave ovens made by Amana? 


Post# 630444 , Reply# 46   10/9/2012 at 12:22 (4,224 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

1600 watts is the power consumption. The power rating is much less! I think the first ones were 650, I think my RR-2 is 660. The newer ones were a bit more powerful but still below 800 watts! 


Post# 630447 , Reply# 47   10/9/2012 at 12:32 (4,224 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

This ad for a RCM-10 from the late seventies says "from approximately 70 to 675 watts of microwave power"


Post# 630480 , Reply# 48   10/9/2012 at 14:21 (4,224 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Here's another RR-2 with detailed info on a museum website.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK

Post# 630497 , Reply# 49   10/9/2012 at 15:23 (4,224 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
PhilR:

You were lucky to find that one here. If I had timed it right..(famous last words) I would own a really nice one now. Well, as we all know, patience and persistence. I've found some frigidaire and GE microwaves, but no touch-n-cook. You're asking me about Touch-N-Cook. I'm a rookie here,still laughing about how I have been "hooked" and looking at all the cool old appliances. I saw one touch-n-cook stove , but just the word, "touch-n-cook" is not always mentioned in the ads, making searching for these, much more difficult.

That makes more sense....675Watts. What was I THINK-ing!? Well when you look at the size of the magnetron and transformer, all the parts, one is easily convinced, at least at first, that "here stands a mighty cannon". :-)

I have still read in blogs, that these some early Amana Radaranges will cook food faster. I don't think it will cook it as evenly, maybe(?), but maybe the motor or air disbursements of the m-waves has some characteristically different cooking efficiencies or speed? These old workhorses still going - not a lot of info out there.

Incidentally...I sent Cory a message that his web page has some dead-ends when clicking the photos, and asked if he was going to add more to the site, in the near future.

I haven't seen any photo gallery of member's m-waves. If none exists, I think we should have all the members who have older microwaves do a photo gallery? I know these are not the biggest interest item, but we have to start somewhere!

Phil


Post# 630531 , Reply# 50   10/9/2012 at 18:31 (4,224 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)        
Interesting....

cadman's profile picture
Just checked my RR-2 and wouldn't you know it...NO Buzzer Switch. However NO FCC sticker in that location either. Serial number S18351271. Wouldn't you know it, I can't put my finger on the Amana manuals binder. Hmmm.

Post# 630539 , Reply# 51   10/9/2012 at 19:17 (4,224 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
Cadman: I tried to find a manual...but you need a different model number or it's a longer number...or..maybe this site just doesn't understand RR-2, but have you tried:

shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_...


CLICK HERE TO GO TO ovrphil's LINK


Post# 630554 , Reply# 52   10/9/2012 at 21:30 (4,224 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Phil, 

 

I think Cory has more information on early Radaranges than anybody that works at Whirlpool...

 

I also wish there would be a member gallery for all appliances (not only MW ovens!) searchable by brand and model number!

 

 

I just got the glass tray for my oven today and it's in very nice condition. 

 

Here's some interesting info about early microwave ovens (some commercial and some domestic models).

 



CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK

Post# 630566 , Reply# 53   10/9/2012 at 23:23 (4,223 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
Really!? I hope he will be able to have the interest, time, money or whatever the factors, to keep the website going. It's hard to believe that there isn't a book on the Amana Microwaves produced, with year and model of production...something I can definitely research.

It's a good idea; a search engine that will reveal all the ads, technical data, and repair manual links(still a pay feature) here at AW.org. Big steps to implement, with no idea on costs for doing that.

Thanks for link, I downloaded it...kinda blurry, but I'll read it in the morning.

"Chrome guns do it better"


Post# 630575 , Reply# 54   10/9/2012 at 23:37 (4,223 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Early Amana Microwaves Without Turn Tables

launderess's profile picture
We all over the place in terms of ratings from "Consumer Reports" type publications. Most models ranked between "fair" or "good", with those rankings going down as other microwave ovens began offering turn tables either built in or as a separate option.

Once however most manufacturers moved to built in automatic turn tables that was it for Amana's design for the most part. Interestingly Panasonic recently launched a line of microwave ovens that did not use a turn table. The claim it gives more usable space and allows for odd and or large size pans which aren't always possible otherwise.


Post# 630576 , Reply# 55   10/9/2012 at 23:38 (4,223 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Older Amana Microwave Oven Information On Whirlpool's Si

launderess's profile picture
Is very hit or miss, I've tried.

One can only assume when Whirlpool purchased Amana and or over the years the former has decided to cease offering any sort of support for the older designs/models of the latter.


Post# 630609 , Reply# 56   10/10/2012 at 08:58 (4,223 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)        
The Confusion!

cadman's profile picture
Sadly, there's not a lot of information out there and what little there is, is often incomplete and occasionally contradictory. Even the Amana service manuals can be a bear... Different ways of laying out the schematics, incomplete information, different formats, dates printed only on the service release. Then there's the model names themselves. Let me give you an example....

An RR-7B and RR-8B are essentially the same machine, they even share the same service manual, but the 8B gets a temp probe and temp control slider.

One might jump to the conclusion that a 7A and 8A might be equally similar, but the 8A is a design unique unto itself. One might also assume a 7B is a revised 7A but they're also different as night and day.(A 7A actually has two separate timers!) Then I discover Amana released conversion kits to turn 7 and 7A's into what amounts to a 7B. All the components in the control panel change, but the model number tag on the back of the machine of course stays the same.

In the late 70's it seems that every possible variation the designers could dream up was released with its own model number... There's the RR series, the RRL series, the RO's, and the R's. And then they'd go and make a running change across the board. It gets real confusing. - Cory


Post# 630611 , Reply# 57   10/10/2012 at 09:01 (4,223 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
Launderess - interesting, isn't it? ! I remember those first rotating plates. Funny, we just removed the plate to fit larger items to nuke.

Yes,those acquisitions include "sunsetting" the support,as the intellectual properties are assimilated and sorted out(along with good people).

But...Amana deserves more in its place in history. I used to work for NCR; still have the old glossy photo/text literature we gave prospective customers. I'm thinking like Jane's All the World's Aircraft on a smaller level, looking for "Amana's All the World's Radarange's. I'm dreaming, but calling out to anyone who might have a stash, any amount, of Radarange brochures or docs, just collecting dust. I'll volunteer to scan them all.

Good to exchange notes - thanks!





Post# 630630 , Reply# 58   10/10/2012 at 09:43 (4,223 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

petek's profile picture
Back in the late 70's or could have been the early 80s when other makers were adding turntables and variable power settings Amana advertised for a while that they were unnecessary with their ovens. Shortly after they came out with their power shift models.

Post# 630632 , Reply# 59   10/10/2012 at 10:06 (4,223 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
Cory: Amana was all over the place! It sounded like a free-spirited place to work, with the variations in designs and oddities in model number id'ing.

Once I looked at these Radaranges as clunksters, but I have a renewed appreciation these days. I would really like to see some old brochures of some of the Radaranges; can't hope for an "Amana's All the World's Radaranges" book soon. :^P Anyone have luck finding some Radarange brochures? That one museum page of Amana's product is hardly just. I can't imagine someone who worked as an engineer or in sales or who knows what department, who wouldn't still have some photos or brochures tucked away at home, that avoided the Whirlypool's dumpsters.

When you or anyone acquires one of these old beauties, do you typically have a manual? I 'm guessing not, but if you do, why not scan the pages and pass along in a library for online access?

I can see the challenges you faced with trying to document and add support for these Amana's - NOT EASY! ...brings a renewed sense of appreciation, thanks!



Post# 630633 , Reply# 60   10/10/2012 at 10:13 (4,223 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
petek: ah, well..the consumer demand eventually forced a change, didn't they, upon Amana's feature list?

Most people that I knew who had the money to own and use (they did use them, too) a microwave, LOVED the rotating turntable. Because, otherwise, I watched the others, without that feature, stop the microwave, and TURN the container to achieve a more even cooking. They claimed it helped. We've come a long way since then, so maybe the dispersion field wasn't as good at cooking certain foods(boiling water is hardly an example!)...

I loved watching the plate go around. Something comforting knowing that something was working for me, that I didn't have to stop the microwave and turn the food. Some nuk-clars worked that way..not sure about the Radaranges.


Post# 630736 , Reply# 61   10/10/2012 at 20:30 (4,223 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Radarange RR-2

combo52's profile picture

I have an RR-2 serial # S18353111, this one does not have the end of cooking buzzer. Would this one also be a 1969?, mine still works fine but is a little rough in some ways. These early models came with just a flat piece of tempered glass for the cooking tray, mine still has the original glass.

 

If anyone ever wants to sell a better condition RR-2 I would be interested, Thanks John.


Post# 630750 , Reply# 62   10/10/2012 at 21:31 (4,223 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
Hi John,

I know you don't post pics often but I'd really like to see the tray in your oven!

I just got one for mine but it's for the newer models...

Phil


Post# 630800 , Reply# 63   10/11/2012 at 06:02 (4,222 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
TRAYS

ovrphil's profile picture
It's not pretty or has alot of features, but I'm looking at buying this Touchmatic... but it has no tray:

desmoines.craigslist.org/app/3216...

I found another one that looks identical -surprised to see some waffle looking plastic thing..did some Amana's have non-glass trays like this?

I can find trays on eBay, but wondered if Cory has any in his arsenal of Amana parts? (guessing, "no").

Thanks.









CLICK HERE TO GO TO ovrphil's LINK on San Francisco Craigslist




This post was last edited 10/11/2012 at 06:23
Post# 630802 , Reply# 64   10/11/2012 at 06:21 (4,222 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Amana MW Oven

combo52's profile picture

Phil the model you posted has a sealed in tray, so it did not come with a removable glass tray. The good news is these newer style Pyroceram trays or floors were much more resistant to uneven heating and therefor did not break when someone places a bag of MW popcorn on it to pop.

 

So a word of warning for all of us that are using these older MW ovens that just have Pyrex floors or removable trays, don't pop popcorn directly on them, if I want to do this I always take a flat piece of Corning ware and sit the item on top. The advent of MW popcorn broke thousands of these nice heavy glass trays in older MW ovens.


Post# 630810 , Reply# 65   10/11/2012 at 07:11 (4,222 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts)        
Combo 52

super32's profile picture
When I entered the appliance field, I was amazed at all the problems MW popcorn has caused in micros. One usually thinks because its "microwave popcorn" it should be ok but I still continue to chase down and repair new/newer units that popcorn has destroyed.

Post# 630812 , Reply# 66   10/11/2012 at 07:17 (4,222 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
Popcorn, innocent old popcorn - breaking glass trays. I can't imagine the consumer responses! Wow.

I'm checking out a Touchmatic today; trying to learn if a tray would be standard or if missing, ask to knock off a couple bucks. Should I expect to see a tray in there(which sounds like it would be a Pyrocerm)?

Good information, thanks John.






Post# 630987 , Reply# 67   10/11/2012 at 22:38 (4,221 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        
Hitachi microwave

ovrphil's profile picture
PhilR: Do you have more than one Hitachi microwave in your collection?

So, looking around for a Frigidaire microwave is like looking for a needle in a hay stack. Hitachi's must be as rare...

You mentioned exploding eggs and settings on a Hitachi; got me looking around for one, and they're rare, as well.

As we were talking about Touch-N-Cook, this looks like their idea for it, but notice..they didn't give it a name.

I liked this ad.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO ovrphil's LINK


Post# 631007 , Reply# 68   10/12/2012 at 03:28 (4,221 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
Just one... I don't think they're rare. I have seen one identical to mine that was rebadged (I can't remember the brand) not so long ago. Unfortunately, I can't remember where either!

Post# 631709 , Reply# 69   10/15/2012 at 01:23 (4,218 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
I replaced the power cord on the RR-2 a few days ago and I took a few pictures from inside.

IMG-20121010-01431L

IMG-20121010-01432L

IMG-20121010-01433L


Post# 631711 , Reply# 70   10/15/2012 at 01:34 (4,218 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
And about the power of the newer ones, the ad I posted above for the Frigidaire RCM-10 said 675W but the sticker on the back of mine says this so I guess it's 750 Watts for the newer ones like the Amana Touchmatic:

IMG-20121014-01477L

Also, I replaced capacitors on my two RCM-10 ovens and I noticed a few differences between them. The capacitors on the older oven were different and one didn't have the same voltage rating. The wiring also differed a bit between both.

One was made in Oct. 1978 and the other just one month later in Nov. 1978...

Here's a pic from the Nov. 1978 RCM-10 oven.

IMG-20121013-01453L

And those from the Oct. 1978 RCM-10 oven.

IMG-20121014-01476L

IMG-20121014-01475L

IMG-20121014-01474L







Post# 631831 , Reply# 71   10/15/2012 at 12:27 (4,218 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
Capacitors are blue? Were you replacing because they stopped heating or working optimally? I have some electronics experience, but would have to refresh to get the basics again...assembled my first Heathkit at age 13 - my great claim to fame as a wirehead. :-[)

So, in your photos, where is the before and after replacement of the power cord(s) or..more aptly for me...where IS the power cord? Is it comprised of those two white wires?

Thanks!


Post# 631861 , Reply# 72   10/15/2012 at 15:17 (4,218 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
Phil, the pictures show the 3 microwave ovens. The first pictures with the red "high voltage" sticker show the RR-2 which had a damaged power cord. The pictures show it before the replacement, I haven't taken pics with the new cord... The white wires are those from the power cord. The hot goes to the timer, the neutral to a connector just under the yellow wire and the ground to the chassis.


The capacitors that I replaced were those on the two Frigidaire RCM-10 circuit boards. I just did what Cory suggested on his website for the very similar Amana RR-9T (see the link below).

I was surprised to see many minor differences between two microwaves of the same model that were manufactured with just one month interval. The problem I had with both was that something was affected with humidity (after cleaning the touch pad or when cooking something in the oven for a few minutes). The display on both ovens started to display a series of "4444" and even after resetting, it would display a series "4"s even in the power level display for a minute or two after being used (the program already entered still worked though so the MW oven would stop at the desired time or cook at the desired temperature even if it displayed a series of "4"s. One of the ovens got it's problem worse to the point that it wasn't even possible to enter the cooking information before starting, even in a dry environment...

The replacement of 3 capacitors on both ovens corrected all this. As for the RR-2, it has mechanical timers so no need to do that!



CLICK HERE TO GO TO PhilR's LINK


Post# 632082 , Reply# 73   10/16/2012 at 10:15 (4,217 days old) by ovrphil (N.Atlanta / Georgia )        

ovrphil's profile picture
PhilR: You answered all and more of my questions I had - thanks. I am driving 2hrs+ today to pick up a different microwave than I posted earlier - but it's not in Cory's website photos. Anyway, good info.

Just wondering, do you replace anything, even if all is working ok? I know you didn't here, but wonder, since capacitors and resistors etc, have improved since these were built, does it matter to replace the old ones, as a measure of maintaining them, just like some of the washers and dryers, since time and use ravages all?



Post# 632085 , Reply# 74   10/16/2012 at 10:32 (4,217 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
Well, I guess if you're buying a Touchmatic from the seventies, it's possible that you might get the same issues.

Some people replace the capacitors in old electronic equipment to prevent future problems. I don't but that doesn't mean I'm right! I guess I'm just a bit lazy. I also replaced capacitors in my mw ovens because they had problems...


Post# 632087 , Reply# 75   10/16/2012 at 10:49 (4,217 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)        
Generally Speaking....

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Electrolytic capacitors tend to dry out with age, and as they do, their performance in filtering voltage transients drops too. In an old radio you might hear a 60-cycle hum. With digital you'll begin to see erratic operation (or completely inop). Since digital electronics are more sensitive to this sort of thing, it's possible for the unit to be irreparably damaged, too. Eventually, a failing electrolytic may short, in which case damage WILL result. In 'modern' electronics (~1970 and up) you don't have to worry too much about the non-electrolytics. Sometimes replacing them will actually create a problem, especially in tuned circuits.

The Touchmatics that I've brought home in the last year have been right on the borderline of needing their caps replaced and I do it as a matter of preventative maintenance now. Once the new building is finished and I can get these machines out of storage, I plan on offering a Touchmatic Panel R&R service. -Cory



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