Thread Number: 43689
Maytag 641c Dial Motor |
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Post# 641884   11/26/2012 at 21:49 (4,169 days old) by Bob331 ()   |   | |
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The dial on my 641c dryer won't advance on its own leading me to believe the dial motor is shot. Does anyone know where I may find a dial motor? |
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Post# 641913 , Reply# 1   11/26/2012 at 22:57 (4,168 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))   |   | |
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The part number for your timer is 301130. Unfortunately, that's all the parts manual has to say about it. If you can gain access to it there may be a manufactures name and part number stamped or printed on the actual timer motor body, then armed with that info you can try searching for it. But you may be looking at replacing the entire timer. One thing you may want to do is check for continuity through the two motor leads. If it reads open then yes, the motor is done. But if you do find continuity, pull it off and see if it rotates when separated from the rest of the timer. If it does you may very well be able to save your timer. |
Post# 641926 , Reply# 2   11/26/2012 at 23:23 (4,168 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Timer is the same as a 741C/DE DG 700/ DE DG 702.
If all else fails, you can try Midwest Timer. They repair/rebuild timers, but are quickly starting to get away from repairing the older stuff. CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK |
Post# 642046 , Reply# 3   11/27/2012 at 10:58 (4,168 days old) by Bob331 ()   |   | |
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Thanks for the help! |
Post# 642136 , Reply# 5   11/27/2012 at 18:39 (4,168 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 642152 , Reply# 6   11/27/2012 at 19:54 (4,168 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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The other method I've used is to shut off the bulb, then place drops of oil (the blue & white 3-in-1) onto the drive gear a couple at a time, wait for them to be sucked inside the rotor before adding more, and repeat the process up to about 15 drops. I just quieted down a raspy H-3 rotor via this routine last week. My experience has been that some rotors will suck up the oil more readily than others. Balancing the rotor on the bulb is the toughest part.
Nice job reviving your rotor Jon! I've never met a Telechron rotor I couldn't bring back to life through one means or another. |
Post# 642170 , Reply# 7   11/27/2012 at 20:56 (4,168 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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Post# 642408 , Reply# 8   11/28/2012 at 21:31 (4,167 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 642421 , Reply# 9   11/28/2012 at 22:25 (4,167 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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John, there aren't any windings involved. Those would be found on the coil, which is a separate component.
I've used a 40 or 60 watt bulb in the past. They generate enough heat to do the job.
I've attached a picture. The copper piece is the rotor, which is easily removed from the coil assembly. The paper-wrapped coil is visible behind it. |
Post# 642440 , Reply# 10   11/28/2012 at 23:21 (4,166 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))   |   | |
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Did Maytag use telechron motors on machines from this period? The synchronous motors I've seen thus far on Maytag timers do have a coil right there in the motor housing surrounding the rotor. Here's a photo of one made by Ingraham with its cover removed for a little maintenance. The coil is wrapped around a black plastic spool, the edge of which is barely visible below the unsoldered terminals at the two O-clock position. |
Post# 642525 , Reply# 11   11/29/2012 at 06:17 (4,166 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Ralph, I guess I was talking about washer and dryer timer motors where the coil is built into the motor with windings, and while I am sure the light bulb trick can and does work I have always liked using a more controlled heat source [ a covered electric skillet also works well ] besides I don't think that I have any incandescent light bulbs any longer, LOL. |