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Thread Number: 44968
KDS-58C questions |
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| Post# 659493 2/10/2013 at 18:37 (4,093 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
Just became the proud owner of a KDS-58C (see the thread "KDS-18 portable in Montreal" for the details).
This thing is amazing! It's in excellent condition and was well looked after. The outside cabinet is near mint, and the butcher block top looks like it has never been used-not a scratch or scuff mark on it. Inside, the tank is almost perfect... no rust anywhere, including both racks, and the top Constant Rinse Spinner is present. Underneath, again there is no rust, and no signs of leaking anywhere. I'm certain this dishwasher did not get much use by it's previous owner. So far, the only problems I've seen are: - Lower tank seal is starting to come off, so I'll need to replace it. However, I ran a full load tonight and only saw a small drip of water on the corner of the top of the lower access panel, so I'm wondering if there is any hurry to do so (the center part of it was brittle and came off in my hand, but no leaks there). Where's the best place to buy this seal? I see that RepairClinic.com have them in stock, and I've bought parts from them before. Any other recommendations? - The power cord is taped up at the plug end and also where it goes into the dishwasher, so I will probably end up replacing it. Is there supposed to be some kind of retracting mechanism on the power cord, or does it just push into the opening like the unicoupler hoses? How difficult is it to replace the cord? - I noticed tonight when getting ready to unload my first load that there seems to be a problem with the door hinges, as the catch at the top of both hinges starts to come out of the slots. Are these adjustable, or am I missing a stopper piece? (The guy who sold it to me told me that he had some custom door springs made for it because he couldn't find any replacements, so that might have something to do with it?) - After finding a recommendation in another thread to take off the front access panel and check for leaks at the detergent dispenser, while running my first full cycle I noticed that both the pre-wash and main wash dipensers drip ever so slightly around the shafts, at a rate of about 1 drip per 30 seconds each, but then part way through the cycle, both of them stopped. There was a bit of calcium buildup and a tiny bit of rust in the bottom of the panel below the bi-metals actuators, but I'm wondering if I should bother trying to change the o-rings, or just leave it alone for now? - I did have a problem at first with the dishwasher not filling up as much as it should. Turns out the unicoupler faucet adapter I bought had a water saving disc in it... removed that and now it fills up to the proper level. Other questions: - How do you take off the lower access panel? Does it come off from underneath? Do I need to take off the chrome trim piece "bumper" that is over the front casters to get it off? - Is it normal for the motor to cut out and wind down briefly while the timer rapid advances after a rinse and hold? It does so three times... once about a second before the status lights change from "Prewash" to "Wash", and twice while in "Rinse" right before switching to "Dry". I know that there is a water heating pause during the final rinse, and that the unit does a final drain after a pause, so I'm guessing this is what the timer is rapid advancing through, but what about the first pause? - Finally, what does the "C" in KDS-58C stand for? Canada? The wiring diagram/timer chart inside says "Printed in Canada" and "The Hobart Manufacturing Company Limited, 190 Railside Road, Don Mills, Ontario, M3A 1B1". Tip I discovered: if you want to remove the chart, do so after the dishwasher has been operating for a little bit and the tank wall is warm... this allows the glue to come off much easier and prevents the chart from tearing. And on a totally unrelated note, one final question: is it possible to purchase the female end of the unicoupler (ie: the same end as on the dishwasher) with just the fill side? I'm thinking that now that I have an adapter on my kitchen sink, I'd like to find this female connector so that I could make a custom fill hose for my Hoover 0519 Twin Tub. | ||
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Post# 659495 , Reply# 1 2/10/2013 at 18:55 (4,093 days old) by appnut  (TX) |
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Motor Windingh Down during Rapid Advance Yes, that is all completely normal. KitchenAids have done that during rapid advancve of timer after Rinse & Hold since the KDS16--first KA with true rapid advance timer. I had friends who had a KDS17 who always used Light Soil (they prerinsed). It would that motor wind up and down whjile it advanced through the soak & scrub section of the timer. | ||
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Post# 659501 , Reply# 2 2/10/2013 at 20:04 (4,093 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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KDS-58 Questions Congratulations on your new DW, BoB
The hinges on your DW are bent, probably when the original door springs broke they dropped the door a few too many times, both the white curved hinge arms need to be replaced, these are NLA but you can take them from any KA DW built through in the 18 - 23 series.
The door springs on your DW were only used on the portable models and are NLA also, but I have found that the long springs used on early 80S GE DWs work just fine and it seems that GE used a much better spring than KA as I have never seen a GE door spring break. | ||
| Post# 659550 , Reply# 3 2/11/2013 at 07:18 (4,092 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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Thanks appnut. I figured it was normal when it did exactly the same thing the first two rinse and holds that I ran. Ah, maybe my first pause is a water heating pause as well...
Thanks combo52 for that info. I wonder if anybody has ever tried to remove their hinges and re-straighten them? A bit of heat, a bit of bending in the right place, and some fresh paint... should be able to fix them. But I guess the problem would be how much they need to be bent and where-would be trial and error without having a good one to compare it to. | ||
| Post# 659706 , Reply# 6 2/11/2013 at 18:29 (4,092 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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Ah, didn't realize they were nylon coated. OK, I guess I'll have to find a set somewhere. As long as I'm careful when loading/unloading I should be good for a little bit.
Would appreciate your input Stevet on my other issues (power cable, detergent dispenser, lower access panel removal). No rush though-whenever you have a few minutes. Will try to post pictures later tonight. | ||
| Post# 659919 , Reply# 7 2/12/2013 at 15:02 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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Sorry, didn't get my pictures up yet.
BUT, I did find this... RepairClinic selling KDS-18 hinges? CLICK HERE TO GO TO barcoboy's LINK | ||
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Post# 659962 , Reply# 8 2/12/2013 at 18:31 (4,091 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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KDS-58 Questions | ||
| Post# 660001 , Reply# 9 2/12/2013 at 21:52 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660002 , Reply# 10 2/12/2013 at 21:54 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660003 , Reply# 11 2/12/2013 at 21:54 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660004 , Reply# 12 2/12/2013 at 21:56 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660005 , Reply# 13 2/12/2013 at 21:57 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660006 , Reply# 14 2/12/2013 at 21:58 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660007 , Reply# 15 2/12/2013 at 21:59 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660009 , Reply# 16 2/12/2013 at 22:00 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660010 , Reply# 17 2/12/2013 at 22:02 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660011 , Reply# 18 2/12/2013 at 22:03 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660012 , Reply# 19 2/12/2013 at 22:03 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660014 , Reply# 20 2/12/2013 at 22:04 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660015 , Reply# 21 2/12/2013 at 22:05 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660017 , Reply# 22 2/12/2013 at 22:05 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660018 , Reply# 23 2/12/2013 at 22:06 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660019 , Reply# 24 2/12/2013 at 22:07 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660020 , Reply# 25 2/12/2013 at 22:08 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660021 , Reply# 26 2/12/2013 at 22:09 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660023 , Reply# 27 2/12/2013 at 22:10 (4,091 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 660043 , Reply# 28 2/13/2013 at 01:41 (4,090 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod) | ||
That's a Beauty. | ||
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Post# 660065 , Reply# 29 2/13/2013 at 07:20 (4,090 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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KDS-58 Questions Looks pretty good overall, it only shows light signs of being used with hard water and or too little or cheap detergent. Unfortunately the mineral deposits damage and ware out the seals much faster like the slight leakage that you see at the DD seals. The DD Bi-Metals did not have cardboard covers on the portable DWs because the portables came from the factory with metal front panels installed unlike the built in models where these electrically live parts would have been exposed before the optional front panels got installed in some cases, UL made them install the cardboard guards on BI models.
You diffidently should replace the main pump shaft seal if you plan to use this machine often as this can save the main motor from damage from water leaks as well as many other parts under the machine, although one good thing about leaks on a portable DW is that you usually are aware of them much sooner if you are moving the DW each time it is used when you see the small puddles it leaves on the floor, and you can repair them before the leak ruins the motor etc. | ||
| Post# 660073 , Reply# 30 2/13/2013 at 08:10 (4,090 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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What is involved in changing the shaft seal on a KDS? When I changed the seal on my Whirlpool PowerClean dishwasher, I had to get an entire pump rebuild kit because both the wash and drain impellers I had to chip out with a hammer and chisel because they were so stuck to the motor shaft.
Guess I should get ahold of a service manual as well as an owner's manual. Anybody out there have one they could email me? | ||
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Post# 660194 , Reply# 32 2/13/2013 at 19:38 (4,090 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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New main water seal in a KDS-18-20 It is much easier to replace this seal than the one that you did in the WP PC DW , mainly because the motor shaft is SS and the pump will come apart easily. And the neoprene rubber and carbon seal is the same as WPs and MTs, I buy just the carbon and rubber part from MT DWs as this is the only part that really wears out. | ||
| Post# 660391 , Reply# 33 2/14/2013 at 22:56 (4,088 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 661330 , Reply# 35 2/20/2013 at 18:36 (4,083 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 661368 , Reply# 36 2/20/2013 at 22:05 (4,083 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 661369 , Reply# 37 2/20/2013 at 22:06 (4,083 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 661370 , Reply# 38 2/20/2013 at 22:07 (4,083 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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| Post# 661371 , Reply# 39 2/20/2013 at 22:08 (4,083 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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Post# 661403 , Reply# 40 2/21/2013 at 05:17 (4,082 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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1st rapid advance timer Well I'm gonna cross hairs here regarding this and explain why I said KDS16. Yes, I was aware of the KDS14 & KDS15. BUT, those machines still had exposed timer dials at the lower base of the cabinet where one could reach, touch, grab, and turn the timer dial themselves (I did). Beginning with the KDS16 series, all timer dials were completely concealed and non-accessable easily by the user. So to me, that was the first TRUE rapid advance timer. !!!!! | ||
| Post# 661872 , Reply# 42 2/23/2013 at 12:25 (4,080 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
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I wondered the same thing recyclewasher about straightening the hinges. The only thing I thought is that perhaps once they had been bent once, they might be easier bent the second time as the metal might be weaker in the area of the bend. Something else I wondered about the hinges is that there is no place in the service manual describing how to remove or replace them... at least not that I've seen, and I've been through it a few times.
My next project is changing the o-rings in the detergent dispenser. Last night I was able to get the cotter pins out and disassemble the cover mechanisms without having to take the whole dispenser out of the door. While doing so, I noticed that one of the wire connectors going to the left bimetal was partially cooked... the plastic was all black and brittle, and the connector itself was also blackened. It must have got hot at some point, even though both dispensers worked each time I tried them. So I will have to change that as well I guess. | ||
| Post# 1194727 , Reply# 44 12/4/2023 at 15:14 by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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