Thread Number: 49253
Maytag 142 Valve Solenoid
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate automaticwasher.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 712765   11/2/2013 at 11:38 (3,827 days old) by Bob331 ()        

Is it typical for a 142 to bleed water back through the opposite hose? With the hot water hose disconnected and the cold water hose hooked up to full pressure, a little cold water comes out the hot hose. Was this a design flaw or is the solenoid going bad?

On another note, I'm still looking for the right side control panel glass for a 142 washer or 641c dryer (red Maytag emblem). Any leads would be much appreciated. Thanks!





Post# 712796 , Reply# 1   11/2/2013 at 15:10 (3,827 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
yep, I think so

akronman's profile picture

I've had that happen on a Kenmore and GE. I think the valves are built to pretty much have constant pressure against them, most folks leave the washer faucets open for years. I bet there is nothing wrong with the valve, and it will work perfectly when both hot and cold are hooked up and turned on, placing pressure on the diaphram.


Post# 712828 , Reply# 2   11/2/2013 at 18:53 (3,827 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
The hot inlet must be capped if only the cold is being used.


Post# 712837 , Reply# 3   11/2/2013 at 19:37 (3,827 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Bleed Through on Older Thermostatic Inlet Valves

combo52's profile picture

On older thermostatic inlet valves since there is just one solenoid necessary when warm water is called for, this means that the warm solenoid and attached valve has access to both the hot and cold incoming water supply so this type of backup is very possible when the washer is not filing. To prevent this there is a check valve behind each inlet screen, it is a brass washer with holes in it with a rubber washer behind it to prevent back-flow. The problem is that these rubber back-flow washers are usually hard and have become ineffective long ago.

 

So if you are running the washer with just one hose, cap the other inlet, and when using the proper hook-up you must immediately turn off at least one of the water supply hoses to the washer when it is not in use or you may find that you are taking cool showers and flushing your toilets with hot water due to the normal pressure variations that occur in most home plumbing systems. Another solution is to get check-valves and install them on both the hot and cold water supplies to the washer.

 

John L.


Post# 712900 , Reply# 4   11/3/2013 at 01:39 (3,826 days old) by Bob331 ()        

That clears things up. Thanks for all the great info!!


Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy