Thread Number: 70979  /  Tag: Twin-Tub Washers
Hoovermatic Deluxe t5090 leaking spin tub
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Post# 939782   5/22/2017 at 16:35 (337 days old) by washaholic1970 (Somerset UK)        

Hello there, I have just bought my first Hoover twin tub, a t5090. Have used it a couple of times but have noticed it has started to leak from the black rubber seal on the outside of the spinner tub, which connects to a white plastic pipe, which is connected to a thick red wire leading up to the controls. The seal goes into the tub and fits flush to the outside, should we just seal it with silicone? Will also look to replace the spinner pulley belt as this is a bit rough, also pulley has rusted from the leak so needs a clean up. Will replacing the spinner belt improve the sound of the spinner? Its quite loud, I've heard spinners of this model on youtube that sound a lot smoother with a more high pitched whistle spin sound. When it is half full of clothes its sounds like its under strain. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. D

Post# 940054 , Reply# 1   5/24/2017 at 15:36 (335 days old) by anthony (uk)        
hoover twin tub

anthony's profile picture
these machines were quite noisy especially when spinning .Dont think replacing belts will quiet the thing down .What i did with mine was to push some carpet underlay up between the wash tub and the outer case it really quietens the thing down and stops a lot of vibration

Post# 940423 , Reply# 2   5/26/2017 at 20:39 (333 days old) by WishyWashy (Brisbane, QLD, Australia)        

Ahoy Washaholic, from down here in the Antipodes!

Sorry to pop up so late with some input on this, but assuming that the Spin Tub arrangement on your 5090 is the same as the 1302's that I used to have (because the general layout looks almost identical, going by photos of the 5090 that I've seen here and there on the web), I don't think you'll shut the Spin Can up anywhere near properly until you take it out and grease up the inside of the sleeve-type brass bearing that is cast into the centre of the Resilient Bearing's rubber.

With regard to the horizontal carbon-face part of the bearing arrangement, well, I suppose you could try either rubbing a very soft leaded pencil over it, or maybe sprinkling some graphite powder onto it (if you have some), or maybe even just putting some grease on it too.

I think your own idea of cleaning up the Spin Pulley is very good, and I would hold off from either buying a new belt or installing Anthony's carpet-underlay trick until I'd given the aforementioned lubrication and pulley cleanup a go first. Even then, if the top of the Spin Can was substantially out of alignment with the hole in the plastic trim-panel that sits above it, then it might pay you to have a tinker with the lateral adjustment of the Spin Can using the bolt-slots that are provided underneath for the purpose - ie. There are slots for fore-aft adjustment in the chassis rail where the Pulley Mounting is bolted down, and the baseplate of the Pulley Mounting itself has slots in it for left-right adjustment. Of course, any adjustment you make from underneath will result in a reverse movement at the top of the Spin Can, since the whole vertical assembly pivots around the point where the Resilient Bearing sits in the bottom of the Spin Tub. Repetitive cycles of upending and adjustment will thus be required. Make sure you have an old blanket or some old carpet laid out so that you don't scratch the top of the machine during all of this upending. Patience is indeed paramount to the whole process...

Best Wishes & Good Luck with it!
Wishy Washy.

Post# 940510 , Reply# 3   5/27/2017 at 10:18 (332 days old) by washaholic1970 (Somerset UK)        
Leak on the spin can/burnt rubber smell/hot motor

Thanks for your help. I have sent you an email Anthony, more problems have come up with the machine.

The spin can noise is not terrible, I think the machine stood for a while, and maybe because I've used it several times now the spin noise is not bad, just a squeak when it slows down to stop.

But there is a new problem. Used it yesterday to do a weeks load of washing, so did put it through its paces. Was careful not to overload the wash tub and spinner.

About half way through the laundry load, I loaded the spinner without a rinse, putting the suds back into the tub. It started to smell of hot/burnt rubber, up through the bottom of the spin can. I stopped it spinning, and had a look in the back. I run the spinner with the back off, while my partner watched it, he seemed to think that the belt was fine but,
the motor was really hot, so paused the whole process, had a cuppa then went back to it once the motor had cooled down. I then put smaller loads in the spinner, which seemed to sort the problem. Seemed to work better with rinse on.

Until emptying the tub at the end. Which probably takes 2-3 mins, it started smelling again, after it had emptied half the water. Stopped, left it again for a bit, emptied the other half with a saucepan, and pumped out the last little bit in the bottom.

It was a shame as getting through that last half of clothes took twice as long.
So to recap, the little leak, I'm still not sure how to correct this, it's not leaking from the bottom of the outer can, it's from that small outlet on the side/not the drain pipe.

And the spin belt does feel rough/fibreous.

Thanks again WishyWashy and Anthony for your advice, but any further advice would be great. I have now seen a A E G Lavalux that I'm looking to buy, Am I attracting more problems than I deserve| Kind Regards Rebecca.

Post# 940523 , Reply# 4   5/27/2017 at 13:41 (332 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        
Hi washaholic

I agree with wishywashy about greasing the brass spin bearing, but don't grease or lubricate the carbon face water seal, just clean it with acetone or meths, I have experienced the seals when greased, the grease causes the surface to almost stick together resulting in the carbon face drilling away the rubber around it.

Is everything free running, there isn't anything stuck under the spin can or wrapped around the shaft that may be effectively breaking the spinner therefore overloading the motor, or could the pump be stiff again straining the motor. In all my years I've only known of one burnt out spinner motor.

The black part that's leaking with the red tube, to me sounds like the pressure bottle that operates the autorinsing, yes this should fairly easily come apart and silicone/glue it back together.

Now as for the AEG, are you thinking of this as a second machine because you like twintubs or to replace the hoovermatic. if you love twin tubs and want to collect restore and use a few of them, then yes go for the aeg.

If you're thinking of replacing the hoovermatic with the aeg to use for most or all of your washing then I would advise to stick with the hoover. I have an AEG lavalux, it`s the model with the pump lever on the front, and do occasionally enjoy using it, but they don't take as big a load as the hoover and the wash action certainly isn't as vigorous as you may imagine, they also don't spin as dry as the hoover and don't have the autorinse, though due to the large spinner rinsing is easier than other non autorinse twintubs. Also from a maintainence point of view, the hoover is so much easier to work on and parts by comparison are positively available.

But as I say if you can have both then, why not, the aeg as you would expect is a very well built machine.


Post# 940536 , Reply# 5   5/27/2017 at 15:22 (332 days old) by triumphdolomite (Staffs(UK))        

I was wondering about the pump too, 2-3 minutes seems to be a long time to pump the wash tub, it's usually nearer to 60 seconds isn't it?

Post# 940547 , Reply# 6   5/27/2017 at 18:09 (332 days old) by washaholic1970 (Somerset UK)        
Pump Hoovermatic

Hello again, Will have a look under the spin can tomorrow, to make sure its all moving smoothly. As for the pump, when I was rinsing it did seem to be pumping out inconsistently. You would get a large flow of water, to begin with then, it would slow down a bit. Although when draining the wash tub, the flow was quite powerful and constant.

What would be the procedure of checking the pump, or should we replace it?

As regards to the auto rinse pressure bottle part. When I connect the hose to auto rinse, I have been controlling the flow of water on the tap end, and only leaving the tap running for 5 to 10 secs, before turning it off(worried about overflowing the spinner?)
On the controls the middle one has ON, RINSE, then the temperature settings. I have turned it to rinse setting but it doesn't do anything, can you explain what I'm doing wrong. Has this to do with the auto rinse.

The pressure bottle, goes into the small black rubber seal, with clip over, but the leak is where the rubber seal sticks into the outer can, can you pull this out of the can, as leak is coming from where it joins into the can. We tried some silicone tape, and it was rubbish.

I haven't heard back from the person with the AEG yet, but I do like the older Hoovermatics there's a few on ebay, one in Wales which is the nearest to us, as we are not far from Bristol, but it's a bit pricey. especially when your not sure if it works or not, but cosmetically in good nick. Its the model with the blue spin lid, with the timer on the top, I like to call it the Flash Gordon lid.
Anyway I'm loving the chats, keep the advice coming I don't know what I would do otherwise, it's really nice to talk to people who share the same love for these vintage machines. And go out of there way to save them from the dump. I also restore vintage caravans, but thats another story for another time. Kind Regards Rebecca.

Post# 940611 , Reply# 7   5/28/2017 at 05:03 (331 days old) by Sesteve (London, UK)        

sesteve's profile picture
The pump does have quite an effect on the motor - it's quite easy to service but easier to remove it first. It splits into 3 sections and it's usually the bottom one that causes the issues with lint getting stuck around the base of the impellor and soap powder crud. I've attached a pic of it from one of the earlier models - the design didn't change in years.

The rinse facility works via the pressure switch. When the water level gets to around the base of the spin can, the switch will make and run the spinner until the level drops - the important thing is not to have the water on too fast so that the pump can't cope. It shouldn't overflow as long as you don't operate the spin stop lever without opening and closing the lid again.

It might also be worth checking the spin motor brushes to check their length and condition. These motors do get quite warm in use and there is often a warm smell from the machine which is usually nothing to worry about. If there was a serious issue then the motor overload would kick in.

Happy washing S

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Post# 940626 , Reply# 8   5/28/2017 at 08:28 (331 days old) by keymatic3203 (Cardiff UK)        

Hi Rebecca,

Switch to rinse and run the tap so the water trickles over the clothes in the spinner leaving the tap running, close the spinner lid, nothing will happen until the water reaches a certain level, as Steve says, this is about up to the base of the spin can, then the motor will start up and spin until the water is pumped away and switch off again until the water reaches the level and spins again, this process keeps repeating until you turn the tap off and return the switch to motor for the final spin. So in effect you are saturating the load, spinning it off and repeating this until you see the water run clear, usually 3 to 4 is enough, the real trick is the speed you run the water, not too fast or it runs off the top and doesn't soak right through to the clothes at the bottom, too slow and you wait all day.

Most of us here appreciate and enjoy all things vintage, the caravans sound lovely, can just imagine how enjoyable the tea and cake is made in the vintage kettle/teapot and the china tea set all laid out.

I often say when people find out about me collecting appliances, "at least they are smaller than steam engines" of course I do love a heritage railway as much as the next. I also have a collection of vintage Christmas lights, smaller kitchen appliances and older electric lawnmowers, so you can imagine it's there's always repairs or at least the good intention underway.

The hoovermatic you mention isn't that far from me, but with all these things whatever condition they are sold in, you have to expect them to need some work, if you hope to use them.
But ask away, lots of knowledge on this forum,


Post# 940674 , Reply# 9   5/28/2017 at 16:08 (331 days old) by anthony (uk)        
have you

anthony's profile picture
tried running the motor with no load on it [remove the belts and switch the spinner on ]you will know instantly if the motor isn't running properly

Post# 940693 , Reply# 10   5/28/2017 at 19:15 (331 days old) by washaholic1970 (Somerset UK)        
Hoovermatic update

Hello Everyone, Before I start, thank you to everyone for the great advice.
Have had another run today with the machine, and followed the instructions about the auto rinse. Oh my god! What a miracle, a step forward in twin tub technology, what a break through. I could walk away from it.
Was a bit nervous at first anticipating when that spin was going to come on, but when it did, what joy.
It run like a dream, sounded really smooth with no squeaks. I think before, when I was trying to do the rinse manually, i was maybe not using enough water and spinning for too long, so putting strain on the motor after a while.
So all was good, when it came to pumping out the tub at the end, about two thirds of the way through the warm rubber smell started to arise. I stopped the machine and my partner spotted a rogue tea towel in the bottom which was blocking the flow. started it up again and it pumped out with such force, it was empty in a blink of an eye.
I managed to fix the leak as well with the silicone tape, just needed to put more layers on in strips to get it to hold, but checked it after using the machine and it had started to leak again, but still cut down the leak to a third of what it was before, so can live with that for the mo.
Just one question to put out there, where do you aim the water in the spin can, on the edge of the spin mat, or through the hole in the middle? I had to rinse a double duvet cover, and it must of taken 8 to 9 rinses, before the water was clear.
Anyway a successful Sunday afternoon, and very pleased with the results, I love my Hoovermatic, and if any further problems arise feel confident we can sort them out. I'm definatley going to buy that older model with the Flash Gordon Lid, I'm even looking at the Hoover Constellation as well.
Talk Soon Guys Rebecca.

Post# 940779 , Reply# 11   5/29/2017 at 10:12 (330 days old) by chestermikeuk (Rainhill *Home of the RailwayTrials* Merseyside,UK)        

chestermikeuk's profile picture
Hi Rebecca, glad you are getting sorted with your new Hoovermatic, all great responses above. I would use "Automatic" low foaming powder to give great results without the high sudz that Twintub powders can usually do, this will cut down the rinsing considerably, with rinsing I find if soapy do a manual rinse, soak the clothes and a quick spin inbetween does it, then final long spin, then switch to autorinse..

The rinse flow should be controlled so that the flow is over the clothes on the far side of the spincan and that no excess water is coming out of the hose on the tap adaptor..

Heres a few pics from the previous model instructions which are the same...

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Post# 940788 , Reply# 12   5/29/2017 at 11:51 (330 days old) by washaholic1970 (Somerset UK)        
Hoovermatic Somerset

Thanks Chestermike, Will follow the advice, it's great to see the original instruction booklet. I was watching your videos, before I bought my Hoover matic, so you inspired me to go for it and by one. I really want to get hold of an older one at some point. Will get some pics of my machine to post soon. Thanks Rebecca.

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